The Crispin Colloquy

Courtney

If you would like to repair it like new, cut off the broken part clean and get a small block of HDPET (High Density Polyethylene Plastic) that is the kind of plastic lasts are made from .Industrial plastic supply house will have it and most of them have cut off pieces that they will sell you at a discounted price ,buy more than you need for this job its handy stuff to have around if you want to change toe configurations .cut a block that be big enough to replace the part you cut off and use the other last as a model to reshape the portion that you just added.when you are done drill a hole large enough to replace the metal pin socket in the heel and you will have a last as good as new.

Now here is how to attach the block to the back of the last first be sure that both surfaces are parallel this is important because you dont want any gaps in the bond then take a hot plate ( electric so there will not be an open flame) go to good will and pick one up . Get a flat bottomed pan while at GW and you are ready to start the process of rebuilding your last . Place the pan on the hot plate heat it up enough to melt the surface of your blocks. Touch them to the pan enough to melt just the surface of the block then stick them together and you will be as good as new .The reason you cant use glues or other kinds of polymers is because nothing will stick as well as the same material. get enough of your HDPET chunks to experiment with the melting end of this project .This technique is great for modifying lasts as well new toes ,you can modify toe spring as well .and make a boot last out of a shoe last . JUST REMEMBER this is a permanent thing that you are doing to the last ,not like gluing a last modification for a customer. Set yourself pair of silicone gloves like you would use for grilling out to protect your hands and also do this somewhere where you have good ventilation. outside or in the garage .You just need enough heat to melt the edge not the hole thing . Be careful. and you will save yourself alot time and money.

any Questions you can call me .

Larry,

That's one of the best tips posted on the Forum.

Good on you

Larry,
Thanks!!!!! Any idea what I should use for the metal thimble?

I also posted some boots I made above the broken lasts, that's why this ended up in the gallery.
Maybe the hdpe thing should be moved to the last section?

Thanks again for your help!

Courtney

Is it actually hdpet? Or is hdpe the same?

courtney wrote:Larry,
Thanks!!!!! Any idea what I should use for the metal thimble?

I also posted some boots I made above the broken lasts, that's why this ended up in the gallery.
Maybe the hdpe thing should be moved to the last section?

Thanks again for your help!

Courtney

Not Larry, sorry...

But as I mentioned before, you could just cut some iron/steel pipe that has the same ID as the spindle on your lap jack I've done this...works a treat. Maybe leave it just the very slightest bit proud.

You could probably also call one of the last companies (like Jones and Vining in Arkansas) and order some thimbles.

D.W., oh yeah, you did say that. Sorry.
You think I can cut steel on my regular nothing special band saw?

courtney wrote:D.W., oh yeah, you did say that. Sorry.
You think I can cut steel on my regular nothing special band saw?

?? I dunno...I cut it with a hacksaw.

Courtney

In answer to your first Question HDPE is the same thing .

Find out what the inside diameter of your last pin hole is and you can go to an automotive place and see if you can buy some steel brake line or hydro line it is generally lighter than regular pipe but as strong or stronger. or as DW says give Jones & Vining a call and see if they can help you.
The place I get my plastic is: Midland Plastics,Inc
3605 North 126th Street
Brookfield, WI 53005
414.783.3460

They are wonderful people to work with .and they have offices all over.
Cadillac Plastics is also another place you might try. just make that you get the HDPE because they formulate it differently for different jobs . and when you welding it as this process describes you want to be using the same formulation.
Hope this helps.

Thanks!

DW posted a picture of a last that unhinges as an inverse 'V'. For curious minds, here is the rundown I got from Mr. Bruce over at j&v: it is called an SES hinge or speedy slip hinge last and they started making it over 55 years ago (supposedly one of only two last plants in the world that make them).

Probably the absolute best last hinge for shoes, esp. low quarters. The heel moves up and forward so that there's never any stress on the backseam.

I saw one in a copy of Thornton, I believe, I think it was a fairly common style mid 20th century if not earlier.

Whole cut Oxfords. Box Calf from Weinheimer Leder in Germany.

Very nice looking work Rick. I like your bottom...er...the sole that is.

Woman's oxford. Ice Blue Edelman Modernya Russia Calf and reverse navy kangaroo. 1-3/8" heel. Channel stitched (using two bristles ala Garsault), Topied
[click to enlarge]

Nice Oxfords DW.

Quite a while ago I mentioned that I was going to be doing something very new for me. Here it is: I got George Koleff's last making book and DVD from Tim Skyrme, watched, read and adapted it for details taken straight off a pair of feet (mine) . I have made my first lasts , and designed a pair of vintage inspired cycling shoes, hence the cutaway heels to save a bit of weight (myself and 3 of our offspring ride unicycles. My two uni's have wheels of 28" and 46"), out of veg kangaroo and 12oz, unsized, artists canvas cut on the bias.
Home made solid brass eyelets (same finish underneath as on top; smooth). All hand sewn with uppers at around 14spi, and welt at a shade under 10spi. Made the welts a little too narrow and the stitching on the right shoe I am *not* happy with. Had scored a line on the welt to aim at but was difficult to see and kept getting worked out as I sewed. Tried taking off the left welt to replace it with a wider one and took 2 1/2 hours to get 11 stitches out of the hold fast. Thankfully I hadn't cut any more stitches before trying to remove them. At least I know that my sewing hangs on . Sewed that bit back on and used a silver pen to mark out the welt line and had much better results on the left (the stitches go right over the silver line and hide it); not perfect, and I'll be making the welt wider next time. I'm just not making enough shoes to become easy with neat welts yet.
Starting a pair of lasts for an order next.
Onward and upward...

Oh, the tongue buttons down over the laces to protect against the loops getting caught on the peddle cranks; you cannot coast/freewheel on a unicycle nor penny farthing. I did this by putting solid copper rivets up through my brass eyelets.
I'll shut up now and let you look at the pictures.

Cheers
Duncan

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Nice Job Duncan! Now we know where we can get our custom lasts.

Take care!

Ha, ha, ha, funny man! By the way, what time is it where you are? I wasn't expecting U.S. comments until tomorrow.

"The Early Bird Gets The Worm"! It was about 11:00 p.m. (Central time).

Duncan...

You asked. I have moved your posts on making lasts, etc., here {Open Forum>Techniques, Crans and Visualizations>One "Last" Question}

Thanks Admin. I've gone over and put another comment.
Cheers

DW:

Nice work. I am coming to like the false toe caps a lot. Keeps a clean line while providing some visual interest.

What did you think of the Russian Modernaya? I have some of the same blue; I made a pair of monk straps out of it, but I find it to look a bit 'plasticky.'

How about a picture of the waist treatment?

Lance

lancepryor wrote:DW:

Nice work. I am coming to like the false toe caps a lot. Keeps a clean line while providing some visual interest.

What did you think of the Russian Modernaya? I have some of the same blue; I made a pair of monk straps out of it, but I find it to look a bit 'plasticky.'

How about a picture of the waist treatment?

Lance

Lance,

Thanks.

I don't much care for the Modernya...truth to tell, I'm still a little leery of all of Edelman's leather. Most of the Lux (veg) is a little thin and the finish a little suspect and the rest is just upholstery leather--soft and a bit, as you say, "plastic-y" looking. The blue Modernya loses a lot of that plastic-y look in make up and lasting but it's still a little soft for my druthers.

Sorry I don't have a photo of the waist and the shoes went out this past weekend. The outsoles were channel stitched and the forepart Topied. So the waist was just smooth black leather. And actually, I've been experimenting with some additional "crowing" just in front of the heel and that didn't go so well...so I'm actually glad I didn't take a photo of that area.

The heel and waist had a beautiful finish, though...something else I've been working on and have almost got...Jake can vouch for it.

Lance,

Concerning the heel and waist, I'm literally sitting at his feet waiting for guidance. The finish was extremely nice!

Too bad you aren't with us, it would be a blast. Take care!

Jake

homeboy wrote:Lance,

Concerning the heel and waist, I'm literally sitting at his feet waiting for guidance. The finish was extremely nice!

Too bad you aren't with us, it would be a blast. Take care!

Jake

Wish I could be there; I'm sure it would be fun and extremely educational. Perhaps another time!

Look forward to seeing the results of your time there.

Lance

French calf all the way through...this might be the 10th (?) pair for this fellow: