The Crispin Colloquy

Nice work Rick.

Do you hand-sew the Blake-stitch, or are you using a Blake-stitch machine?

Lance

Lance. Love your shoes too! Blake stitch by hand. Easy! I hope to post a tutorial next time.

romango wrote:Lance. Love your shoes too! Blake stitch by hand. Easy! I hope to post a tutorial next time.

Very interested in seeing how you did this.

I posted a tutorial on this technique (AKA channel stitching) some time ago...here... using guitar wire, ala George Koleff, but I have since come up with/rediscovered the way to do it using bristles.

My first boots with top stitching pattern. The pattern is right out of DW's book.
It looks pretty good if you don't get too close. I had a walking foot on my singer 31-20,
which I have since replaced with a rolling foot. Hopefully this will result in improved stitching next time.

Hand stitched side welt.

Rick,

Looks pretty good. I'm sure you will be much happier with the roller foot, however--it affords loads more control and precision.

That said, the hardest stitch job I ever did was that same stitch pattern in four lines of black on a pure white top. It was a nightmare...the slightest deviation or wobble looked like a thumb in the eye. I suspect the mirror--white on black--would be just as difficult.

That's actually a gray thread. I was shooting for something subtle. But the white is so bright, it makes the gray look more black!

Rick,

I can see that and it is subtle...almost a shading/shadow effect.

But my point was that whenever you resort to high contrasts you have to really be on point with your stitching. I guess that goes without saying..."everybody know that."

9oz wild boar, 5-6oz elk lining, 12 iron midsole insole and counter. 6-7 oz cowhide uppers. canvas pants.

Nice looking boots Adam. The beading at the seams looks to be a nice touch too!
Paul

just plain old work boot.

Good-looking boot! Thanks for sharing.

work boots

This is a pair I am just finishing up -- a pair of 'austerity' brogues in a navy blue calfskin from Crack. I put a spit shine on the toe, and also on the sole just for the heck of it. All Baker bottoming leather. Hand stitched outsoles at 10 spi. Beveled waist, but no fiddleback sole.

I messed up the pattern by moving the toe cap too far forward (by 1/4"), but I think it looks okay with this style. Also need to revisit the inside vs outside dimensions of the patterns, as the center of the counters skews to the outside of the shoe, particularly the right one -- don't know if the lasting did it, or the patterns were at fault, or perhaps a bit of both.


Lance

lance,

Love them! I think the toe cap is just right. On an austerity...it seems to me...having the toe cap come back further would only encourage creases in the cap.

Hate the laces...

The one thing I have struggled with...and which I see in many (but not all) high end oxfords...is that upward rise in the vamp right at the vamp point.

Depending on the maker's aesthetic, it may not be a problem, might even be a "feature." But for me it is problematic. The book that Frank Jones edited--Pattern Cutting--has a useful tip in a section towards the back that describes how to eliminate that problem. I have used it once and it worked a treat. Then I forgot about it for several pairs...and regretted the results. Now I'm coming back to it.

DW:

Thanks.

Yes, I see what you're referring to; have to say, it doesn't bother me, but certainly I think one could consider it an imperfection in the pattern making.

I'll have to check out Frank's book again. I don't know what causes it -- the extra stitching around that area that reduces the stretch, the cone of the last, or what. Usually I cut my vamp straight across/perpendicular at the VP for an inch or so on either side of the VP; maybe continuing a gentle curve all through that section would counteract the rise, since the vamp would be a bit concave in that region.

Lance

Lance,

pp159

DW:

Thanks, I'll look at that.

Forgot to mention, I did this pair with extended heel counters pretty much all the way to the inside joint. I look forward to seeing how that feels/works.

Lance

Lance,

I've always used midliners that overlap the stiffeners on both ends of the shoe.

And following a recipe I got somewhere...I don't remember where...whenever I can (except on certain boots--chelseas jodhpurs), I use heel stiffeners that are as long as the foot is long.

Personally I like the support of long heel stiffeners and midliners. I like the way they tend to preserve the look of the shoe, as well.

DW:

I use mid-liners as well. I like to use a lining leather for the mid-liner -- I like the veg tan's water absorbency, fine edge when skived, and overall softness of the lining leather. Maybe a firmer chrome tanned leather upper would be superior in some ways, but I find the 3 layers of leather is sufficient to maintain the firmness and shape of the sides of the shoes even with veg tan as the mid-liner. Still, the extended counter should provide more support through the arch of the foot. I have a very high arch and instep, so it should be nice to have that extra firmness/support in the arch. We shall see....

Lance

dw wrote:Lance,

pp159

DW:

I guess I have the older version of this book -- it doesn't have that many pages!

If you can give a condensed version of the solution, that would be much appreciated!

Lance

Lance,

Incoming!!!

Sent you an email w/attachment.

[highlight=][quote="lancepryor"] the center of the counters skews to the outside of the shoe, particularly the right one -- don't know if the lasting did it, or the patterns were at fault, or perhaps a bit of both.[/highlight]


I often have the same issue with either the counter or toe skewing to the side. Happened for me on both boots and shoes. I was wondering if the buildup on the outside of the lasts causes the issue.

This is a very sleek looking pair Lance.

Happy 4th of July for those in the USA.

These are a pair of shoes that I threw together extremely quickly, so I am almost embarrased to post because of the many rushed mistakes, but I was happy with the design and pattern. I got this crazy idea to make a pair of shoes for the 4th, unfortunately that was 3 days ago and I have a full time job outside of doing shoes.

When I get some time, I hope to re-use this pattern but i will want to find better white leather. I was looking at these and I might modify the pattern for a pair of cowboy boots.

Yes, each shoe has 50 stars in the toe, arranged like the flag. Also there are exactly 6 white stripes per shoe.

Pretty cool for a quicky Terry!

Yes, indeed...and the colour scheme would look good as a boot, for sure.