Shoe machines

[amuckart]

That's a common issue with these machines. In an older thread Al Saguto said he glued a bit of vibram to the bottom of the foot of his to get around that problem.

If you type the following into google:

29k site:www.thehcc.org

it'll turn up a bit of discussion on this site about them.

[guy_shannon]

Thanks Alasdair.

I was thinking about that and I did read that post a while back but I was thinking a rolling foot would be a slick way around the dragging.

I had a gent come into my shop last week with an original 29k with the tension bar instead of the spring and his foot lifts with no problem so I am thinking the problem lies in the tension that the spring puts on the presser foot compared to the tension bar like on the old singer or my Adler 30-1 has.

I will spend some time reading the 29k site some more but the problem is probably dead simple.

Guy

[last_maker]

Dunkshien! Courtney!

Thank you for the information. I really appreciate your reply.

For all others, what is your take on a consew post bed machine. Are they any good. I have been using a flat bed. Does any of you have one and like it, dislike it and why?

Marlietta Schock

http://lastmakingschool.com

[athan_chilton]

Marlietta, I have a Consew post machine. As a beginner, I have barely used this machine, but so far it seems good to me. I work very slowly and the machine allows me to do that. The operation of the machine seems sensible and not overly complex. I think with practice I will come to like it a lot, so I would recommend it as of now. If that sounds like a guarded recommendation it's only because there's so much I don't know about sewing, and about sewing machines of this type. This one came from Pilgrim Machines in Boston, MA, a seller who was recommended to me. So far so good!

[last_maker]

Athan,
thanks Athan, for your reply.

I bidded on a consew on ebay today and won the auction. Apparently it wasn't a post machine but a cylindar bed machine with a walking foot. I was mistaken as to what to call it.

Sewing comes easy to me, when it comes to operating a standard machine since I have sewn clothing for 40 years and gowns during that time for 10 years. But I haven't run specialized machines that footwear construction seems to take so it is a bit nerve racking as to what to buy.

Rick,

Earlier I posted the amount of machines I had not to bost or brag but to get a reply as to, if any one knew if any one of those machines I listed could take a roller pressure foot or if I needed yet anthother SPECIAL machine Ugh!! I wanted to know where to get one. Courtney kindly replied. I would rather tinker my existing machines for what I need instead of having yet another sewing machine!

I left behind professional gown design to go into footwear quite a number of years ago, but left over, I still have all the machines from that time. I figure that I should be able to configure them for footwear construction. I mean if the fabric, material or leather can be sewn why not utilize some of the vast inventory of machines I have left over from a previous time in my life to make footwear.

Marlietta

http://lastmakingschool.com

[romango]

Marlietta,

Leather (upper) sewing machines are usually pretty simple compared to cloth machines. The thing that distinguishes them is a serious clutch drive to keep them moving even at slow speeds through thick leather.

Then there are the machines that have unusual physical configurations, like the post machines for sewing in tight 3D spaces.

[last_maker]

Rick,

Thanks for the answer Rick, I appreciate it. I hope your recieved your shipment o.k. Remember it is only a piece of the equation to a whole system of techniques.

For all others,

I discovered this sitehttp://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/
for sewing machine manuals that are free to download. I thought you guys might be interested in a manual being that many of you run older machines.

I have got to admit, I have a bit of a feddish for old singer treddles machines in many configurations. Not much room for them though.

Was recently offered a 29k tredal oh boy was I tempted. but no money for it right now.

Marlietta
Http://lastmakingschool.com

[johnl]

There is a 10" Randall Skiver on ebay #330423109253
John Lewis

[lena_dunkin]

Hi,

I'm another new person asking for advice. I'm based in the U.K. (West Sussex) and make shoes. My lack of skiving skills have slowed me down so much that I've decided to get a skiving machine. I've found a new-ish machine for £400, the brand is Ta and I think it's Taiwanese, has anyone heard of them? Are there any problems with fake-Fortuna machines I should be on the look-out for?
Something else I hoped someone out there might be able to advise on - I bought a hand-operated skiving machine on ebay a while back with a missing blade. I think it's a Dixon and it has a plate on it giving instructions for skiving or for cutting welts, the leather is fed to the blade over two rollers. If I did try and find someone who could make a blade for it, are these old machines suitable for skiving upper-leather? If it is and would just be slower than an electric version, I'd get the blade sorted out and save myself a load of cash!
Many Thanks,
Lena
P.S. Hope these are not tedious questions that has already been answered loads elsewhere! Oh, and I am persevering with the hand skiving, I know I need to be able to do this too.

[dw]

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy, Lena.

I have a Fortuna and a Pederson...which is a Fortuna knock-off. Many of the critical parts are interchangeable. In fact, when I first got my Fortuna (it was reconditioned), I couldn't get it to feed correctly. I ended up solving the problem by switching out the feed roller assembly on the Fortuna for the one on the Pederson. Now both work fine.

As for the Ebay machine, a photo would be helpful but if it is what I think it is, it will never skive upper leather satisfactorily...it wasn't designed to do so. And here again, the blade from a better known manufacturer may fit. If not, you may have a problem.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on April 28, 2010)

(Message edited by dw on April 28, 2010)

[frank_jones]

Lena Dunkin

First let me (another Brit) welcome you to the Colloquy.

Can I start from the end of your email. In my experience many newer (is that a word?) shoemakers struggle with hand skiving. This is not easy to master. It is partly due to not having the right tools, partly to not having them sharp enough, and partly to that fact that skiving is a very tactile skill. As with all tactile skills, it is really hard if you are doing this on a self-teaching basis, as most of are.

There is nothing wrong with Taiwanese skiving machines, although your £400 price has me a little worried. Good ones are normally more expensive that that.

The hand operated machine you mention sounds like a machine for skiving bottom leather. If so it will not be of any use for upper leather.

You will get some good suggestions and ideas here on the Colloquy. If you prefer to talk it though with somebody who is UK based, feel free to telephone me.

Frank Jones
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com
UK telephone number: 01706 211181

[1947redhed]

Learning to skive by hand is one of those quests often brought up on the Colloquy.
Are there any of our resident masters willing to post a short video--one for push, and the other for pull skives? I'll let DW pontificate on the soundness of the idea, sort out the volunteers and suggest the formats for posting.

Georgene

[dearbone]

Georgene,

The secret to well skiving is knowing how to sharpen knives well and it takes some time to master knife sharpening,but until that is learnt,no skiving will be easy and i recommend hand skiving to the use of machines,suede leather is hard to skive by hand,but all veg and chrome tanned can be easily skived by hand, As for a video,i will see what i can do,need some higher tech equipments than mine.

Welcome to the forum Lena.

Nasser Vies
HCC- Member

[lena_dunkin]

Thank you everyone. I'm with Georgene - I have been following Tim Skyrme's excellent book and the section on skiving, and agree, great as the written explanations are a video would be marvellous.

Frank - I have your pattern cutting book, it's utterly wonderful. I am sure you are right, as a skiver for bottom leather I think it would work fine. I think I'll keep hold of it and get the blade sorted out. The machine I am buying is from a shoe machinery company in the UK and I've struck a deal for cash, so am hoping it's a genuine bargain, as opposed to something more sinister....

Once again, thanks everyone, I'll post an update on the machine's performance once I get it.

Lena

[jim_b]

I am one who buys, sells and collects equipment. I currently have several pieces available. If you are looking for specifics or wish to have a list just send me an email to request. Thanks, JB

jbtlc@q.com

[jesselee]

All

Where in Ontario can you get the liquid wax for sole stitchers as well as heel ball?Also looking for parts for Singer patchers.

Cheers,
JesseLee

[jim_b]

What Singer parts are you looking for?

[jesselee]

Jim

Needing a presser foot and small gear as well as shuttle pinion for a 29K-58.

Cheers,

JesseLee

[das]

Jesse,

Call Pilgrim Shoe Machines in MA.

BTW, anybody have any input on a USMC 740 chain-stitch MacKay? I have one on offer, and am wondering if it'd be any improvement over a "low milage" 1967 Landis 88 MacKay? Parts are getting scarce and only one size needle is available.

[tmattimore]

I have never sewn on a 740 but have many many hours on a lockstitch USM. The only draw backs is they sew backwards from the landis and are a high speed hot roddin moma. They were desgined for high production. I have been told by an old usm mechanic that they were set up for 10 cases a shift (360 shoes)or more.
The only needles left are 5 and 6 in long or short. I don't think any other sizes are made any more. All whirls and pinions should interchange. If you can find them Fallon makes the best whirls. They are dished out in the center instead of flat. I am running on my fifth year with the same whirl and pinion. If I recall the 740 uses left twist thread and the USM's like 30 wt oil for thread lube.
Tom

[tmattimore]

Just an after thought but if I were looking again I would go with one of the european brand mckays such as DN, Geneva, OBE or besser. They are much easier to operate.
Tom

[das]

Tom,

Thanks for the tips. I've been offered the 740 for free, but the "high speed" warning has me leery, besides my floor space is limited.

I do not like the modern lock-stitch MacKays, as they stitch too tight IMO and make a rigid bottom. For all it's bad reputation, when done with good braided poly thread, the old chain-stitch I find is more flexible and durable. I've seen recent "reenactor" shoes with a lock-stitched/MacKay'ed midsoles blow-out because the lock-stitches actually snapped when the soles flexed. MacKaying is not my first choice anyway, but they are handy machines to have when needed--and "free" is the right price.

[jesselee]

Al

Thanks for the tip. I shall inquire to Pilgrims. Don't know about the USMC740. Is it older than the 66? My McKay is a Civil War era machine, nice and slow. Never used a high speed machine, treadle or hand crank only. Can you direct me to a picture of this machine?

I saw some McKay mids-oled brogans on the net. Seems unlikely they were ever made as many were simply Blake stitched and the horn was stationary and the toes pegged or nailed. The McKay stitched brogans and boots were a simple normal sole of the era. Why would someone stitch a mid-sole and then hand stitch it to a welt.

Cheers,
JesseLee

[tmattimore]

Jesse
I thought Blake had modified the machine to turn the corner and sew the toe by 1862.
Al
A lot of poor mckay work is due to improper adjustment of the take up arm and using cheap nylon thread.
Tom

[amuckart]

This might be a daft question, but what's the difference between Blake and McKay stitchers?

Cheers.