Just a tidbit for posterity here. This morning I was crafting a reply to a British enquirer's email on Hessian/Wellington boots, Rees v. O'Sullivan's accounts, and after doing due diligence I thought it might be interesting to post here:
"We have known since O’Sullivan’s book was discovered that it was a blatant plagiarism of Rees’ 1813 work, with only new copperplate illustrations and a few added bits at the back.
As to the whole Hessian/Wellington mess: the technical difference (eventually) between the two boots was in the cutting pattern—the Hessian had perfectly straight side seams and the back of the leg was blocked-out to shape creating the needed bulge for the calf and reduction at the ankle, whereas the Wellington, similarly, had straight side seams, but eventually developed a 'draft' cutout at the ankle to create the needed reduction there. The Hessian also had a flamboyantly cut top line with a rise in the front and a v-dip at its center, often with a silk tassel added for swank, worn as they were over pantaloons. Wellingtons were usually cut straight at the top line to wear under long trousers. Both were initially whole-cut (no separate vamp).
Current research suggests (see: Shoes by June Swann) that all whole-cut front (blocked, no separate vamp), side-seamed, boots originated in Asia, thence to Slavic Eastern Europe, whence to Germany and France, first as colorful Hussar boots (for Hussar regiments in various European armies who wore Hungarianesque costume), then morphing into the more sober Hessians. The problem with the naming/re-naming is irksome, i.e. in the USA Hessians were called 'Suwarrow' or 'Suvorov'/'Suvoroff'—Hessians (German mercenary troops) having been our enemy in the War for Independence (1776-1783) (AKA The Imperial Civil War). It wouldn’t do at all to try and market a boot here in America thusly named, nor did 'The Iron Duke' association hold much marketing appeal here apparently.
So, in a roundabout way, yes, the Wellington boot did indeed derive from the Hessian boots (a modified and improved Hessian), which in turn derived from the Hussar boots of the 17th century—all being whole-cut and side-seamed. And, as much as they don’t like hearing it in Texas, the US 'Cowboy Boot'—the epitome of all things 'Western'—is actually a very eastern boot as well. 'Old Boney' had a boot style named after him as well—the Napoleon boot (see attached)."
Napoleon Boot
Cruikshank_-_Old_Bumblehead.png
Hussar Boots
Hussar boots.PNG
Wellington boot
wellington-cartoon.jpg Wellington wearing Hessian boots
Wellington wearing Hessian boots