The Crispin Colloquy

Nick, making uppers requires very few tools and you can turn out a respectable upper from the outset. I'd strongly urge you to at least have a go once. You don't need a sewing machine unless you want the speed (e.g. being paid piece work like professional closers); I stitch my uppers by hand, saddle stitched with 2 needles at 2mm stitches - 12.5spi - which is the same spi as my Churches. I think DW also stitches uppers by hand(?). You will already have the basic skills (stitching, skiving, cutting). The tools needed are minimal (knife, stitching awl, needles, dividers, a couple of hole punches for eyelets and brogue/medallion holes) so it's a question of know how. It doesn't take that long to make an upper, even stitching by hand, and you might even be able to outsource the stitching to your partner. It will also save you money (even buying leather from AA Crack, my uppers cost broadly about the same as the bottom end leather from Bakers). And you will improve your skills which will transfer to the bottom end work. I seem to recall seeing Carreducker students who cover the whole of boot making from design through to build (Fiona Campbell takes the design classes). If you're not persuaded, I'll send a PM with details of a closer I've come across.

Ok Philip, you got me. I will try making the uppers at least once ;-) I see the book by Frank Noble is still available and regarded as a good starting point. But for the time being I am buffered by 3 pairs of uppers needing to be made into boots.
Nick

nickb1 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 8:31 am Ok Philip, you got me. I will try making the uppers at least once ;-) I see the book by Frank Noble is still available and regarded as a good starting point.

What book is that? Are you talking about Fsank Jones's Pattern-making book? That right there is a really good book.

BTW and FWIW, when I sew by hand on uppers I either use twisted wire (guitar strings, 11 gauge?) needles or a nylon bristle (I've split 8lb monofilament fishing line). Sometimes, if I want different colours for top and bottom of the stitch I'll use an 11 gauge wire loop.

That said, John Lobb who has most famously said "we have turned our backs on the machine" still uses sewing machines--a Singer 51 class post bed can probably be had for the price of a tankful of petrol.

dw wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 9:05 am What book is that? Are you talking about Fsank Jones's Pattern-making book? That right there is a really good book.

That's the one. I got confused because the website is called Noble footwear: https://noblefootwear.com/.
Nick

I bought Frank Jones' book on his website and he rang me back to thank me! He's very chatty and it was great to hear stories of his time in the shoe trade. He also recommended Lisa Sorrell's book, which is now on my Christmas list (if I can hold out that long).

DW, when you sew different colours top and bottom, are you using a lock stitch? I haven't worked out how to do this with a saddle stitch.

PhilipB1 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 20, 2020 12:29 pm DW, when you sew different colours top and bottom, are you using a lock stitch? I haven't worked out how to do this with a saddle stitch.

Yes.

I don't think that there is a way...and, FWIW (and to the saddlemaker's dismay) we call it a 'shoemaker's stitch'. As shoemakers have been around a lot longer than saddlemakers.

Howdy all,

Just want to introduce myself! My name is Jake, I’m 27 years old, and I make custom cowboy boots in Virginia City, NV. I opened my own shop a little over a year ago and I’ve been making boots for a little over two years. I started with Lisa Sorrell’s DVD set, YouTube videos, a pair of lasts that I ordered from her, and a sailrite sewing machine that I somehow attached a singer roller wheel to. Since my first several pair, I’ve found a lot of guidance and direction from Lisa as well and my friend Richard Stapleman. I’m very happy to be a member of this group and I’m excited to further my education in the craft.

Thank you!

Howdy all,

Just want to introduce myself! My name is Jake, I’m 27 years old, and I make custom cowboy boots in Virginia City, NV. I opened my own shop a little over a year ago and I’ve been making boots for a little over two years. I started with Lisa Sorrell’s DVD set, YouTube videos, a pair of lasts that I ordered from her, and a sailrite sewing machine that I somehow attached a singer roller wheel to. Since my first several pair, I’ve found a lot of guidance and direction from Lisa as well and my friend Richard Stapleman. I’m very happy to be a member of this group and I’m excited to further my education in the craft.

Thank you!

Hey Jake! Welcome aboard! Good to have you!
Just one problem Partner......my name is Jake too! Ha! Two Jakes are better than one!

Take care
Jake

Welcome Jake...both of you!

I know! I know! It's been a while! Now rub my face in it!!

Hello,
My name is Andrew Lehto. I am 30 years old, and I live just outside Yosemite National Park in Midpines California. Im excited to be here, and to have an opportunity to gain more knowledge in my pursuit of boot, and shoe making. I love wood working, photography, history, and learning. I would love to continue the art of wood last making. I understand this isn't something that will provide an income, but its an important art to continue. I look forward to connecting and sharing. Thank you to everyone that made this a possibility. Having a resource like this means everything to me. It is very humbling to know there are people that are passionate to teach if you have the passion to learn.
Andrew Lehto

Hi Andrew,
If this COVID madness ever stops, there are some folks teaching lastmaking over here (UK) at "lastmaker house" (lastmakerhouse.com). I believe they have spent quite some time in the states too, so if anyone over there is teaching it, they may know about it. They make a living out of it too apparently ;-) They used to be lastmakers at Lobb (St James St.) in London.
Nick

Hi All,
My name is Darragh, I'm a novice shoemaker just starting out, I've not actually made a shoe yet but I'm expecting arrival of my lasts soon. I'm an engineer for my day job and spend my days working at a computer, so looking to shoemaking as an opportunity to work with my hands and do something practical (within the space constraints of living in a city flat!).
I'm living in Scotland, and I've signed up for the Carreducker remote learning course, I've watched the videos but can't wait to really get stuck in. I actually had been fantasizing about decamping to Florence for the Bemer course, but when I heard about the Carreducker course it sounded perfect in allowing me to get started without having to abandon the day job for a couple of months!

Anyhow, I look forward to discussing the world of shoemaking with you all!

dgleeson wrote: ↑Thu Apr 15, 2021 1:31 pm spend my days working at a computer, so looking to shoemaking as an opportunity to work with my hands and do something practical (within the space constraints of living in a city flat!).
I'm living in Scotland, and I've signed up for the Carreducker remote learning course

Hi Darragh,
Sounds familiar! This was among the reasons I got started too, and I also did some evening classes at Carreducker, which were a great introduction. If you need equipment you might want to have a chat with Ryan at Buchanan Orthotics in Glasgow, they act as an agent for a German orthopedic supplier. It can be hard finding things at reasonable prices just browsing the web.
Nick

Hey folks! My name is Shaun. I'm 32 and I live in New England, and I've made 1 pair of western boots so far. I used as much information as I could glean from reading old books and watching Lisa Sorrell videos on youtube, and it worked out pretty okay! I'll be making more for sure, but I've been procrastinating because life gets in the way and whatnot. I've wanted to make bespoke shoes for about a decade and it morphed into wanting to make cowboy boots because I actually wear them vs dress shoes.

Welcome, Shaun. Good on you for your perseverance.

Hello, i’m called Michael Buck. I live off grid in the mountains of west central Oregon. In this community I moved into was a man named Hank Zander, the orginator of the Renaissance mocasin, who taught me his craft. Albeit quite unorthodox, using duct tape to cast the foot and specific patterning steps, it was what i had access to and actually produces, when done right, a comfy, durable, repairable, resoleable shoe. My intial training was left languishing for some years as there too many moc makers around and my young family needed money. Some years later my interest was rekindled and many of the moc makers had passed. So I reconnected with some of the local makers and got back up to speed.
Fun as it is there is a limited market and my gaze was steady on traditional shoe making methods but with nowhere to learn. What I didn’t know was that my freedom was right in my home town all along. Enter Bill Clemmons and Clemmons’ Boot Co. How did I miss him all these years (in biz for 41 years)? Slaps forhead. I started hanging out and watching Bill build boots and aspired high! However Bill was about to retire. I feared i was to late. As the day grew ever closer I couraged up, made my pitch, and two lonths ago became a bootmakers appretice. Pure Bliss!! A patient teacher and a master of his method, he may not have realized how much I picked up in that year of Mondays. Finally my day arrived to make my first pair. So much excitement and fear of the sole stitcher I was amped out. Two months and three pair later, I seem to be on my way.

I’m very honored and excited to share this with folks I followed for so long and have learned so much from. Y’all are the best. I’ve got big dreams, big plans, and sooooo many shoe/boot ideas to express. I have, for the first time in my 40 years (I’m 54) in the work force,a job I truly adore. I look forward to living out my life as an honourable cordwainer. Thanks for being here and having me.

Michael Buck
Bootmakers apprentice

Welcome! Looks like you truly are on your way. Good on you!. I like your boots.