The Registry

[ArborCW]

Many thanks Paul. When I decided to study shoemaking I knew I would encounter many talented artisans, but I had no idea how many genuinely great people I would meet.

[greg_fetzer]

Hi there, I just wanted to introduce myself. I'm Greg, a PhD student at Boston College. I'm not a shoemaker, though I am studying craftspeople and have become interested and shoe and bootmaking; I have begun to get to know the community of cordwainers and have enjoyed learning about your work. I'm currently working on a research project looking at how craftspeople (shoemakers) find meaning in their work, and how they navigate the challenges of making handcrafted products in the 21st century. I'm posting here because I'm looking for more shoemakers willing to participate in the study. I have interviewed some of you already--if I have, thank you! Participation involves an interview, lasting about an hour, usually done over the phone or Skype/FaceTime. I'm looking primarily for people who are shoemakers by trade--those selling their shoes--though it doesn't have to be your only work or source of income. If you're interested, you can go to the link below to put down your name and email and I can reach out to you. You're also welcome to contact me here or email me, fetzerg@bc.edu. Thanks so much!

https://bostoncollege.co1.qualtrics.com ... vriyKhxRpr

[Shed51]

Hi there from Yorkshire, England. I'm very much new to this craft and hope to learn more here

[dw]

Welcome, Roger. You can find out almost anything about shoemaking here. Any questions about how to use the forum, contact Admin.

Enjoy....

[ke6cvh]

Greetings,

My name is Mike Kendall. I am retired from active duty in the U.S. Navy for just over 28 years as an Electronics Technician followed by work as a defense contractor in the Middle East for almost 5 years of which almost 3 was in Afghanistan working as a field satellite engineer.

I now live in the Philippines since 2015 with my wife of 20 years and our beautiful and healthy 9 year old triplets (1 boy and 2 girls).

When getting here I'd never sewn but my wife is very handy at it and had worked as a young lady sewing and as a QA for a while in a textile factory years back where now the building is gone replaced by other buildings. Searching for a family business I decided on textiles. Of interest to me was rugged work wear pants, classic jeans, sandals and back packs (old school waxed canvas with leather and potentially external frames for daypacks). The goals intended were ethical labor (so ladies can take care of families) and green energy. We now have 5 dozen industrial machines and 250 solar panels but I joke that it will be an overnight success 3 years in the making....but now wonder if that part will be modified to 4 years.

I made 1 pair of sandals so far and it is nothing much to brag about being very crude getting me some strange looks occasionally but I honestly don't care. So, to say the least my experience with shoes is zero. Along this journey we built a 12 shaft, dual warp beam, overhead beater with flying shuttle, countermarch loom. The idea was to hand weave denim. But then I thought why not hand weave material for uppers?

What fascinates me with shoes is possibly different ways soles can be manufactured. I've seen videos of folks splitting rubber off car tires and that is really interesting. We have been working with a maker in Valenzuela, North of Manila, on an order for a CNC (computer numerical code....kind of like a 2d robot table) table with spindle for wood router and dual diode laser cutter. I've seen rubber stamp cutting with lasers and I think the same can be done from splits of recycled rubber from tires. We are waiting our table but surely it will need excellent filtering and ventilation as well as safety precautions for the eyes. I'm also fascinated to learn how corded soles might have been made in WW2. If there is a way I can fabricate corded soles that would be truly amazing. I've seen there is a sole company in Taiwan using hemp to make corded soles. I'd like to use abaca, a stronger fiber that is in abundance in the Philippines to make corded soles. I'd like to make a version of the Vietnam (and later) era Jungle boots but with blue denim instead of green canvas. So sandals and blue denim jungle boots would be "too cool for school" in my opinion. But if we can make shoes with hand sewn uppers then beach shoes and "Vans" type tennis shoes may be another option.

We have been trying to build up inventory of machines here. I will not go into a long, laborious, and boring list of dozens specialized industrial machines for jeans/pants making we have. Instead I will say we have a hand crank Frobana soling machine with maybe 10 needles size 27. It would be nice to figure out a way to make needles for it. The system 7x3 needle seems to be about 10mm short to make one but I'm certain there is a way. We have a Cowboy cb-4500 capable of 7/8 inch leather and all the bells and whistles that could be had with this cylinder arm clone of a Juki tsc-441. We have a clone of a Singer 29k72 (called a 2972b with short arm but larger bobbin) patcher. We have some Chinese low cost patchers. One is the common tiny patcher capable of 1/2 inch (I successfully proved it can do it) and more importantly some patchers from Robin industries that are using 7x3 needle for the cylinder arm and en route post bed patchers using the Singer 45k needle (dd214) all up to a size nm250. One of those post bed patchers is made to do side stitching on soles. We also have a circa 1915 Singer 45k1 canvassing machine as another heavy duty.

I'd like to buy a Junker and Ruh. Big stuff is hard to get here or I'd likely have bought some of the heavy hitters.

Looking forward to being a member of this amazing community. Many thanks for letting me join.

Best regards,
Mike Kendall

[dw]

Welcome Michael! What an interesting life you've had. I hope you can find what you're looking for here or that someone can answer any questions you might have.

Enjoy!

[ke6cvh]

Hi dw, Thanks for the kind response. A sewing machine mechanic mentor sent me a similar saying to the one at the bottom of your message with a twist. His is as follows:
"Good, better, best -
Never let it rest
Until your good is better
And your better is best."
Now, I need to figure out which is better. I kind of like yours as it is shorter in word count. We have sayings in stainless lettering here above the one workshop and on our e-trike (Li-Ion batteries that say "take the high road". I've been trying to figure out a way to implement my mentor friend's saying and it seems you just helped me by giving a shorter version of the same...thanks! Now I need to figure out how to make shoe soles amongst other things:) Best regards, Mike

[beerstev]

Hello! My name is Steve Christo, retired 4 years ago as a technologist for a DOE physics lab, and decide to start a new career as a custom cowboy boot maker. Took a class in boot making with Carl Chappell 4 years ago but have been building my timber frame boot shop in Gloucester Virginia since then till two weeks ago without touching leather. Very happy to say that the shop is now finished and I'm making my first pair since the class (made 4 "interesting" pairs before the class without instruction, though). I realize that some people are skeptical about my decision to go into this field because of my age but my response is that I'm counting on at least 30 more good years to make boots! Changing careers is something I've done before; changing from potter to art professor to physics worker comfortably. As odd as it might seem, many of the skills acquired in those fields are transferable and I feel comfortable taking on this new challenge. I'm wondering, however, what happened to the Custom Cowboy Boots and Shoes Discussion Board? It seems to have disappeared sometime since I started building my shop. I think they had an incredible archive of information. It would be a shame to have lost it all. I'm exited to be able to dedicate myself to boot making now and look forward to participating in the forum and meeting you all.

[das]

Welcome aboard. I'm over in Williamsburg, VA, should you be inclined to visiting.

[beerstev]

Thank you! I would definitely like to visit sometime after the first week of October when we're both free. I'll send you a message mid-October to make arrangements. Looking forward to meeting you!

[nickb1]

Greetings everyone from across the pond in Reading, England.
I'm a 49-year old hobbyist shoemaker, currently half way through my 5th pair of shoes. I've been learning in evening classes with people in London, each of whom at one time or other worked at John Lobb (St James St). Seemingly for a pittance, in a basement with no natural light, making shoes for aristocrats, bankers and fim stars..
For my day job I am a disgruntled academic, that has somehow ended up in a school of agriculture, teaching economics and environmental studies. Hence the need to do something useful as a hobby at least ;-). Perhaps it could turn into something more if I could only make a pair of shoes with less than 10 days full time labour...
Can anyone tell me how I can post new topics here? I've looked at the FAQs but there is no "new topic" button showing. All I can do is replies? A problem with Linux/browser?
Anyway, on the shoemaking, I was wondering if anyone has any tips on lasting when the last has a somewhat convex area between the joints? Pulling tighter across the joint just seems to leave a drummy, tented area, which is logical when you think about it, I would post this as a topic, if I could post a new topic ...
All the best,
Nick

[homeboy]

Welcome Nick! I don't think Linux is the problem. I use a Linux box on occasion!

Jake

[das]

Greetings Nick and welcome. I think Admin explained to me several years ago that creating new threads is discouraged, as we've got quite a few going already. Your question seems a good one for "One Last Question" about lasts.

[nickb1]

Thanks Das, Jake. I will check out the One Last Question thread.
Nick

[carsten]

Hello everybody,
I just realized that I started posting before even properly introducing myself. I guess that is what the social media age does to you. Well, I am 48 years old, am based in Munich, Germany and am making shoes more out of a private passion. I studied electrical engineering, got a PhD in Rf engineering (radar stuff) and worked six years in research at Bell Labs in New Jersey. Now and since 13 years I am working in the field of Intellectual Property back in Germany.
About six years I started to get into the topic of handmade shoes, when I realized that it was almost impossible to buy good leather shoes for my kids. I started thinking this cannot be rocket science, but I find it a lot more challenging than I initially thought. Turns out that my kids still prefer the commercial sneakers and the ones who wear my shoes is my wife and me. But who knows maybe some day they will also appreciate leather? By now I have made about 35 pair of shoes ranging from Derby, Oxford, Wholecuts, Sandals and Boots – still however trying to figure out how to make the perfect shoe.
Great Forum- Thanks for sharing so much valuable information.

Carsten

[dw]

Carsten,

Welcome to the CC. 35 pairs is enough to give you a solid taste for it and maybe even get you hooked. Need to see more of your work in the Gallery--I saw one pair just skimming through and they were well executed and neat work.

Enjoy. And don't be a ghost.

[PhilipB1]

Hello everyone,
My name is Philip Bishop, from Surrey in England, a little south of London. I've been making shoes for a year and a half now. Knowing nothing about how shoes were made, I discovered it was possible to make them by hand after watching Youtube videos. I've now made half a dozen pairs, under the watchful eye of one of the London bespoke makers. As a hobbyist, I sew everything by hand, am pretty slow, and have so far only made Norwegian welted shoes. But I have a very understanding wife who is supportive of my endeavours and has benefited with some shoes that, for the first time in her life, actually fit her (although as we are more or less still locked-down, she has limited opportunity to wear them). For a living I teach brass instruments, mostly trumpet, and when not working or making shoes, I'm usually playing in my local brass band or orchestra.

[dw]

@PhilipB1 Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. sounds like you're on the right track with your mentors. I have never been too sanguine about learning from Youtube videos...many of which are produced by people who have very little experience in the Trade. "Is it the blind leading the blind?"

That said, there has to be some entry into the Trade and whatever stirs your interest is to be applauded.

Also, having a supportive wife is probably the main criteria for success. In the absence of which, none of us would be here, I'm afraid.

[nickb1]

Hi Philip,
I think I am in the same boat - 6 pairs, the first 4 of them made with evening classes in London. I'm based in Reading so could just about make it to these after work. Could be interesting to compare experiences. The classes I took were taught or organised by Carreducker. This is also a hobby for me (I'm an academic) but I wouldn't mind it turning into something more.
Best
Nick

[PhilipB1]

I've not been on any of the Carreducker courses, but James Ducker is very good and is helping me, acting as mentor as DW puts it. James is very much of the Lobb / West End school of shoe making which I like and is the direction I decided upon when I set out, although it does have a certain practical reliance on contact adhesive. I'd prefer just to use stitching and paste (with a few brass nails in the heel). I tried this out on a couple of test shoes which worked, although it presented some challenges which I will get back to at some point - maybe with the help of this forum? I'll post of couple of pictures in the gallery showing where I've got to.

[nickb1]

Hi Philip,
Interesting, I'd also like to get away from contact adhesive. I've been doing all the gluing outside. There are lost of posts here by @dw relevant to this and it seems there are also water-based alternatives. I think someone posted that they only ever used paste, even on closing the channel in the outsole, but I don't see how this would hold up in bad weather. The main challenge I'm having at the moment though is obtaining higher quality uppers. The closers all seem to work in factories and there is just about nobody advertising openly in the UK. You can find independent shoemakers prepared to make them for you but they are very expensive, I assume because they would prefer to be making shoes for clients than uppers for other shoemakers.
Nick

[PhilipB1]

Hi Nick, contact adhesive and the lack of it - the Bottoming techniques pages might be of help?

Uppers. I'd strongly recommend you have a go at making them yourself, as I do. You took the sensible decision to start out on a Carreducker course, so are following in the Lobb, etc modus operandi where the shoemaker does the bottom end and the uppers are outsourced. The first videos I watched started with making the pattern and upper; I did a lot more reading and research before setting knife to leather with my first shoe and didn't end up following the techniques in the video, but it did condition me to expect to make the uppers. There are some interesting posts in the internet about the pros and cons of making the whole shoe vs outsourcing the upper. I started off using Thornton for the design, but of course the book was written some time ago and although the basic styles are still valid, some of the critical design parameters don't work for a modern shoe; but it's not too hard to fill in the gaps. You can make a trial upper or trial shoe to test the design before making it up. And of course you then have all the flexibility to design exactly what you want to and choose the leathers, etc that you want to use. I've posted a couple of pictures of recent shoes on the Gallery to give you some idea of where I've got to.

[dw]

Nickb1,

Since you 'mentioned' me (fundamentally and invite to comment) I'll pop in here with my unsolicited opinion --There are indeed water based cements. Renia has several of varying strength and dependability. All of them are good but one that will take the place of AP for outsoling is hard to find.What they really excel at is semi-permanent bonds on oil stuffed leather.

Beyond that, I think that to use paste properly esp. if you want to use pegs instead of nails, you need a press. On shoes with low 'square' heels this might not be so important but on boots with shaped heels it's difficult to position and space the pegs for maximum hold without encroaching into leather that will be subsequently pared away.

[dw]

@PhilipB1

I very much agree about uppers. I have always thought that to be a 'Compleat' shoemaker one needs to do it all. Or who's the shoemaker...really? I know that there are some very good closers in the UK but the whole outworker system has always seemed like a deconstructed factory to me.

When it came to the World Shoemaking Championship, for instance, if you submit a shoe that has been made by several different makers in several different locations, who gets the credit? Who wins the prize? Who is the maker? Or is it the hive that gets the credit?

And, maybe just as importantly, who gets ignored?

So far I've not seen any of the entries in several years of competition submitted in the name of a consortium (but many are, in fact, the result of just such). Whose work gets forgotten / disrespected?

Happily, last year's winner--D. Wegen--did it all and presented a spectacular shoe.

The outworker system is extremely popular in some parts of the world and if the maker has, in the back of his mind and the depth of his heart, a goal to create a 'commercial' enterprise that will allow him to step back and not work so hard (maybe not work at all), well, I guess it's a fine system. But as I'm fond of pointing out, any form of craftsmanship that requires mastery and honing of skills, is a journey...and "nobody else can walk it for you...."

[nickb1]

Well, I'd love to make the uppers too, and I agree with you both, but the sad fact is that so long as I'm working full time and holding down a relationship(!), I'm just not going to find the time to learn that to a decent standard. If I manage to scale down my work hours at some point, and have space for more tools ie sewing machine, I'll probably give it a whirl. Regarding outworkers, I wonder how people find them there is so little of the traditional industry left. So there's a shortage of closers and people are not that willing to share information because of this. With Lobb I'm not sure how much they use outworkers if at all for closing, I though they have in-house closers, in-house last makers, the works.
Interesting point about the pegs. On my last pair I probably erred a bit on the side of caution in terms of positioning them away from the edges, being wary because they are so much thicker than nails. This heel was only about 1 3/8 inches high but with a bit of shaping (Cuban). I guess a large clamp could substitute for a press?