Looking for...

[dw]

Jim,

I understand...and I sympathize, I really do. It is a big challenge, make no mistake. Especially trying to learn on your own.

But we all start at the beginning. And at the risk of sounding pompous...the only way forward is by falling down. You cannot be afraid of your materials. You will make mistakes, you will throw away shoes/boots. [My teacher told me I'd throw away ten pair before I got good enough to make for other people. In actuality, it was more like twenty pair...and I'm not done yet! ]

But you learn from those mistakes...in fact, failure may be the very best instrument of learning...and that's how you progress.

Best bet is to download the Golding...all three volumes...and read them (although some sections are, admittedly, beside the point for your purposes...but you'll know them). Reading Golding may, itself, test your will but it will give you the very best foundation upon which to build.

Then just start in--jump in, arms and legs akimbo--and don't look back.

And remember that the Crispin Colloquy is made up of people willing to answer questions and help...


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[romango]

Jim,

You can try the pattern generator here: http://www.romangoshoes.com/shoeweb/home.do

You will need various measurements to make it work.

[andre]

Hello,
I'm new here, so hello to all. For working with suede I like to mention, if you need to work with a masking (paper) tape, first roll it off from the roll and than roll it back and than use it a "second" time for your work, so that more glue is removed from the tape. Also like to mention, that dust is not such a big problem with suede, with some kind of foam you can easily remove dust and the nap is coming back. More crucial is humidity along with dust, like sweating hands or working with open window, if it rains, than it gets ugly. Also don't use pencil markings for the sewing, set with a needle some little punches instead, removing any kind of marking on suede is tough and most of times you screw up the nap. Cover your sewing wheal with a nylon tape, so you avoid "lines" from the sewing. Usually they are easily removable by "foaming", but in some curves it can cause damages and of course set the roller feet on lowest pressure and if you need to attach two pieces use a double coated tape instead glue. Sometimes heat is required, suede dries out fast, so I would look into the matter to use a (nubuk)spray for the finish, which will give back the touch and shine, if you don't have it, try to avoid working without any kind of heat, the suede will look later like an old dog. If you use a sole press, just press with a polybag cover, especially, if you use a dr funk press. Good quality suede, like the pics above, is tight with little stretch, if the case you might modify an older pattern and last but not least, pls cover your hammer with some leather (not suede pls), again to avoid ugly marks or damage the nap.
Most of the best suede today is been done from Argentine calf orgin, because it gives the best strength. Good suede has a "writting" effect without dusting on the fingers and needs some kind of wax touch, to prevent drying out. Press your thumb on the material and the wax should come up, but it must be removable again easily, if not leave it, it will look later like a ham. So, I'm done, once starting writing, I've started remembering of all the shoes I've screwed up in suede - quite a lot, but still I like it, some styles simply needs sued!

[romango]

Looks like I will be taking on this project.

11397.jpg

So I'm looking for some "Barely off-white towards pale gray NuBuck" and some tassels.

Anyone know what distributor(s) carried NuBuck?

How about tassels? Or is there some way I can make them myself?

- Rick

[headelf]

Rick, I have a tassel die. When you get your leather, send me some scraps and I'll click them out for you. I'll send them back and you can assemble. Send enough leather for a few pairs so you can experiment or botch some trial pairs.

[dw]

Oh, tassels are dead easy. It's just a long rectangle of leather...more like a strip, say an inch and a quarter wide. Along one edge fringe is cut, say an inch deep, and then the strip is rolled on itself and sewn shut with a stitch that goes through the whole roll and even the lace.

You could even braid a turk's head over the unfringed part.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[andre]

I also agree, tassels are hassle free, prefer to skive a little on the grain side, so I can glue them easily and there are already tight rolled before stitching.

[andre]

Sorry Rick, just saw you want to use Nubuk, forget about the glue, just roll and stitch it!

[dearbone]

I am looking for a "Dowel puller" (removes old toplift pins from high heel shoes/boots)I thought i will ask here,please PM me if you have a spare one in working condition for sell. Thanks.

Nasser

[romango]

Nasser,

I have this heel nailer from Pilgrim. I think it cost in the area of 100 + dollars, but I don't remember exactly. It has a puller attachment that can be purchased as an accessory.

This may be more than you are looking for but...

Just thought I'd mention it.

11417.jpg

[erickgeer]

Nasser,

I have one (possibly a second missing the jaws piece). I don't use it- PM me to discuss.

Erick

[dearbone]

Rick,

Thank you,Nice looking nailer,never seen one that small,Does it work well from your experience? was the $100.00 for a new one or used? either way it is good price,what do you think it weighs?it doesn't look a dowel puller can be attached to it.

Nasser

[djulan]

Many years ago I was shown a most efficient dowell puller and I have used it ever since (though I have a heel wheel with a puller). This is counter intuitive, but works great! You should try it:
1.grab exposed stem of the pin lift in the jaws of a diagonal cutter (remove the toplift from the stem first)
2. Holding only diagonal cutter handles, orient the shoe with sole heel to floor as when being worn. Keep a good grip, suspending the shoe freely in the air. Do not rest the shoe or cutters or anything on anything.
3. with the other hand whack the joint of the diagonal cutters with a hammer to release the pin lift.

Removes the most stubborn pins, as log as there is enough to grip. You will ruin the hinge of the diagonal cutter after hundreds of pairs, but they are cheap to replace. Use at least 8" cutters.

[romango]

It's a nice machine. Better for shoes than tall boots that don't fit over the stubby table.

Weighs about 40 lbs. I have seen the dowel puller attachment. There is one for sure.

[paul]

Like David, I've used diagonals for extracting dowels for years. Very simple.

A funny story abouth the one that Nasser is looking for.

Many years ago there was a TV show called To Tell the Truth, surely many will remember it.
The panel of "liars" would makeup descriptions of items and stories about things, and the guest was to figure out which one was "true".

One time it was one of these lever type dowel extractors, and the winning lie was that it was an Ejector Seat Lever, from an airplane.
That always cracked me.

ROFLMAO,
Paul

[dearbone]

please explain,what is diagonals? is it like a nipper or something else.

Rick,I spoke to Harris from pilgrim today and there are attachments to his nailer and they weigh about 35 pounds,but the puller i am looking for is a small item weighing few pounds much like the one Paul is talking about..here is a picture of one.

11419.jpg

Nasser

[djulan]

Nasser,

A link to a picture of a diagonal cutter:

http://www.channellock.com/Category.aspx?zcid=92

Any brand will do....

David

[dearbone]

David,

Thank you,I have a couple of similar cutters,but i am still scratching my head about rule # 3 when you "whack the joint of the diagonal cutters with a hammer to release the pin lift" I am not doubting,but like to see it done close by to sink in,since this one area of the trade i know little about,but i used the dowel puller like the one above at a repair shop and they work fine.

[djulan]

Nasser,
I too, have used all forms of dowel pullers, which worked well.
Tomorrow, I will try to photograph the #3 position from my earlier post - for clarity. (wanted to today, but did not have my camera with me)
David

[djulan]

Nasser,
Here is what I meant in step 3- while extracting dowels with a pair of diagonals and hammer. Just don't cut the dowel stem with the diagonals.

[djulan]

11431.jpg

[dearbone]

David,

Thanks for taking time to post the picture,now i got try it on a couple of pairs even though i got a dowel puller (on it's way) from Erick, Thanks Erick.

Regards
Nasser

[johnw]

I am looking for a handle-less hand hammer. I have one but wanrt another but I can't find anything like it on the internet. Hopfully the system is going to prompt me for an image...

11437.jpg

[erickgeer]

John,

You are looking for a fitters hammer- shouldn't be too hard to locate- anyone selling Osborne tools should be able to get you one, though I think for $30-40 (or $50!) , they could be polished a bit better.

Erick

[dw]

^ Sometimes called a "flounder."

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member