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[romango]

Hale and Company have much of their inventory up on an eBay Store at http://stores.ebay.com/haleandco

12 pages of Barnsley awls and other new shoemaking tools at correspondingly new prices.

[amuckart]

I'm a bit bewildered by the size range of the awls from hale and co.

I'm a ways away from being able to fully utilise them, but I'd like to get as close to a complete set of all the various shapes as I can while they're available, but I don't understand the importance of the different lengths.

Can someone explain the significance of the length of the blade? If they have the same curve but different lengths are they used for different jobs?

Thanks.

[romango]

I don't know that I can give you an awl encompassing answer but IMHO the length is not that important. It's the thickness and curve that are important.

I have many different awls but only use two of them regularly: a fairly thin round awl for inseaming and a square awl for sole stitching. If I was more sophisticated, I might use a wider range. But I think it's notable that one can get by without the wide range.

One might, for example, use a less curved awl around the toe and a thicker awl around the heel, but I don't.

The thickness depends on the thread you are using. I get by with a fairly thin awl because I am using fairly thin, very strong, Teklon hand thread.

The ideal curve depends on how far you need to travel, to some extent.

I think you need to experiment a bit to find what works for you.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents.

[mac]

Thanks for posing the question about length of awls Alasdair. I was similarly bewildered!

There is certainly a wide variety of tools... But I was a little surprised by the price of the lasting pinchers. Ouch! A little steep.

Sean

[dw]

I've always used three inch inseaming and sewing awls for inseaming duties. I'm not saying that's correct or that there isn't some better formula for determining what size you need nut I always sharpen my awls according to my own preferences (sort of a cross between what they come with and a diamond point like on German awls). In the process I can and often do remove some substance just to get them where I like them. I always figured you could cut them down but couldn't very well make them bigger.

I do have some really small sewing awls that I use for round closing but all the sizes in-between have seldom if ever seen an awl haft.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[frank_english]

Fellas if want to know about the different sizes and uses call Edwin Hale and he would be more than happy to give you the information. 805-636-3087
Frank English

[jnewburry]

Hi all,
Well I am not sure if this is the right area for wanted items, but I am looking for a pair of lasts for boots 9.5 size. Any info on where to get a pair would be greatly appreciated. I am eager to try to make something that resembles footwear
Thanks,
jim

[das]

Now here's a question:

In trying several types of currently available metal boot lacing hooks, I'm finding that the shanks are harder than hell, and if I can get them to crimp at all, they do not split-out into those nice neat little fingers on the backside. I know "the industry" has gone to automatic machines to insert these--not lever hand-presses like I have.

What's the secret? Are there special types of metal boot hooks just for hand-press inserting? Are they no longer made? I have one small bag left of German-made 2-piece hooks (brass with brown enamel on the hook). These have a separate back base that crimps into the hook proper, rather like 2-piece "pop rivets" for leathercraft. Are these still made in various sizes (smaller) colors (black, brown, yellow brass)? Who sells them anymore?

[erickgeer]

Al,

I get boot hooks from Ohio Travel Bag- they are the ones that crimp to that nice star shape, but you have to have the right die set. The hooks are part # A-295 and the catalog has the part numbers for the dies. I'm using them in the bench adapter for hand setting- you'll need to see if they are compatible with your hand press.

I believe that they have the ones with a cap also, but they use a different die.

Erick

[tmattimore]

I just did a pair of boots and had the same problem I took and set them first with a steel marking punch to open up the base then I used a star rivet set for # 9 tube rivets to split them and then put them in my hand press. The last one I hope to do for a long time.
Tom

[das]

Erick,

Thanks! Is your bench-press by any chance the little black iron, lever-action, "Universal" eyelet setter? Have those with all the dies, but none want to crimp the hooks right. I got my hooks from Goldberg/Trendware, and they had no suggestions to offer on presses, dies, etc. Most factories are now using power eyeleters that shoot them in and crimp them in one go with a foot pedal, so I imagine the hooks I got were designed for those.

[das]

Tom,

Better solution than me: I was making a series of snips around the edge of the shanks with end-cutters to start the splits, then hoping the "Universal" die would take it from there. It worked on some, but not all. Main thing was the thickness of metal in the shank seemed too thick for hand-press setting--like anybody uses hand-presses anymore to bother making hooks for *DUH*

I got the "Universal" setters from Georgene, only to find out the dies/anvil sets are now OP. Ohio Travel bag used to sell the whole set (like 30 pieces), but alas, no more. Anybody have any leads on NOS "Universal" eyeleter fittings by any chance?

[erickgeer]

Al,

I have one of those universal presses- but that's not what I'm using. The A-295's use a die-set that works with some other press, but I use a bench-top adapter where the bottom die mounts, and the top die is held in a punch type handle and used with a mallet.

The boot hooks are on the top row, second from the left, here:
http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/Graphics/Catalog_Web/P27%20Catalog/Section%20A/pages/page15.htm

Benchtop adapter and handle are on the left, half-way down the page, here:

http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/Graphics/Catalog_Web/P27%20Catalog/Section%20A/pages/page18.htm

(Message edited by erickgeer on December 12, 2009)

[tjburr]

Al,

I took a slightly different approach when I last used these. Like you I could not get the star effect. I took a thin washer from Lowes (a hardware store here) that was the same size as the shaft. I then crimped the hook down onto the washer similar to a two part grommet (where I got the idea).

I have seen this pair of boots walking around for the last two years and the hooks seem to be holding up real well.


Terry

[dw]

Anyone know where I can find/buy a pair of those old time red rubber (crepe) outsoles and matching heels?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[das]

AGS/Cudas in Ashland, VA had those in sets a few months ago. Neoprene crepe, right?

Call and ask for Cecil, Stephen, or Andy, and tell 'em I sent ya.

[dw]

Thanks!!

Got a phone number by any chance?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[guy_shannon]

Hi everyone.

I would like to post a pick of my press but I spend more time on here reading than posting. any suggestions would be welcome.

Oh yeah I havn't had any problems with hooks with the press I use and it is dead simple to operate not like the old knuckle buster I had

Guy

[shopfox58]

Hi all,
I have read the benefits of the cotton wrapped polyester thread and wondering where it can be obtained?
Thanks,
Kevin

[dw]

Kevin,

Hey! Welcome back...haven't heard from you in a while.

Most of the Dual Duty thread, used for sewing fabric...made by Coats (and others)...is cotton wrapped polyester. So you can get it at your local fabric store or even Walmart. But frankly I wouldn't use it for shoes or boots. No sheen, no strength...at least relative to nylon.

Maybe you're referring to something else but I haven't encountered it.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[dw]

All,

I have been using Barge Rubber Cement for nearly four decades. No more!

Recently Barge was taken over by Quabaug (I think they were originally owned by Pierce-Stevens or something like that), in any case they have decided to change the formula of their rubber cement.

All these years toluene has been one of the major solvents/carriers for Barge Rubber Cement. Toluene has its problems but it is the major solvent for All Purpose Cement as well. So whether I've simply grown used to it or some other factor, despite its acknowledged toxicity, it has never bothered me (knock on wood).

In a fit of restlessness Quabaug has seen fit to change the formula using MEK as the major solvent-- which, in some quarters is considered even more toxic than toluene.

And from what my finder tells me Barge will no longer be made in any other iteration but "TF" (toluene free).

Well, I gave the new product a try and I'm here to tell you it is worse than the old formula. For me it is intolerable, in fact. The smell is terrible and it outgasses considerably...making me nauseous and causing me to experience some tightening of my chest. I don't like it.

Calling around I talked to several companies that make natural rubber cement. Both Union Rubber and Elmers make pure natural rubber cement that is free of both toluene and MEK..the primary solvents being heptane and isopropyll alcohol.

I purchased a pint of the Union rubber product...called BestTech...at Michaels (it was expensive) and gave it a try. Very little aroma and just as good a tack as I was getting with the old Barge. I ordered a gallon of the Elmers from an outfit on the Internet and paid about what I was paying for the Barge Rubber Cement and got free shipping to boot.

Anyone else experiencing problems with the Barge TF might want to consider switching to Elmers or Best Tech.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[chuck_deats]

Kevin,
DW beat me to it. The numbers on the thread, if any, probably will not match what you see on the forum. You will see the term "cotton glace", usually about 70% poly, 30% cotton. I prefer button and craft thread over linen or all poly to make inseaming threads.

[mac]

DW,

I've been experimenting with toluene free all purpose over the last 6 months. They all smell terrible and I have the same chest tightening experience that you have. (i'm currently using ORTEC) The only way I could tolerate TF cement was to wear a full facemask respirator ALL of the time. I thought it didn't adhere as well at first but I seem to have found the nack for it.

My non- othotic or shoe making friends tell me that barge smells worse! so go figure??? I think over the last 15 years or so I must have gotten used to the smell. To me... the old Barge AP smells like I'm making money I also wonder if the combo of chemicals to replace toluene might be worse for me?

I've been told that its only a matter of time before I can't get toluene products anymore so I made an early switch. I also plan on doing this for a long time so I'm trying to be healthier.

I used a bench model fume buster for the last few years that works ok with Barge... not great though. The fumebuster is useless with Ortec even with brand new charcoal. I just put out a lot of money to have my shop vented out properly. It was worth every cent.

I'm interested to find out other peoples experience with TF products.

Sean

[das]

Gents,

Yes, Barge has morphed into some horrible stuff! My motto has been for 37 years--"if Barge won't stick it, it don't get stuck" in my shop. What about Do-All 88, or Masters' AP instead?

Thankfully I have enough "Old Yeller" Barge and thinner to last a while, but after that's gone I'm trying Masters'. Thoughts.

[tmattimore]

I gave up on Barge over a year ago I used masters until I found out that it is the same product as Weldwood contact cement available at most hardware stores. no haz-mat fee and about the same price. The TF rubber from barge is the pits. I buy elmer's on ebay for about $20 a gallon it is real thick but can be thinned. All contact cements now use MEK or the latex types use Formaldahyde. Pick your poison.
Tom