Lasts

[paul]

I will join in on the endorsements of Bill Tippit and Global Footwear Solutions.

His German Light Beam Scanner and OLGA, his online last grading application, will change the way makers order lasts, heretofore. These are both items that come from Bill's desire to serve our needs.

Us! This tiny little community of diverse individuals, who come from all walks of life and experience, to a trade with traditions and techniques that reach back millenia.

It's been said we're an analog trade in a digital world. It's true! Think about it! That's what's so cool about what Bill has been working on these last couple of years, in my opinion. We'll still need all the intuition we can aquire to be the craftsmen and fitters we desire to be. But now all of us will have use of todays technology for answering todays needs for a custom fit.

If you have not spent time on Bills web page recently, do so. And order with conidence.

Paul

[btippit]

To all:

First, thank you Nasser for your flattering comments and for your condolences. However, it's the boot and shoe makers out there who give hope to this craft by keeping it alive and, perhaps against all odds, inspiring new folks to learn the art and further perpetuate it. I just try to inject a little technology where I feel it's appropriate.

DW, Larry, and Paul...thanks again for your support, endorsement, and somewhat undeserved praise. Let's face it, when the field is this small, it's not that hard to be the lead horse in the race. I do sincerely appreciate your comments though.

I guess because I learned the "old fashioned" way (because there was no other way when I learned) I feel somewhat of a connection to those of you who take flat pieces of leather designed from the 3D shapes of lasts and form them into works of art that fit yet another 3D shape...the foot. I used to do the lasts with rasps, files, sandpaper, and sweat (and on rare occasions still do). However, I know that it would not be possible for me to supply lasts to anyone using those old and limited ways and so I enjoy being able to do it digitally and like to think that, in addition to being part of my business, it's also my small contribution to the trade.

Well, speaking of the Lightbeam and OLGA, I am, for the second time this month, spending a week in Leon, Mexico. The first time was to help train the last company I work with down here on the Romans CAD software I use to make the lasts. Having them up to speed on this software, which they just purchased, will only increase my productivity and hopefully reduce some of the lead times on your orders. This time I’m doing a week of seminars at the local technology center, the CIATEC, on topics ranging from foot scanning to CAD/CAM systems, to analyzing lasts, to grading systems from around the world and others. When I wake up in my own bed one week from today it will mark only the sixth day this month I haven’t been traveling. That schedule has made it difficult to finish my new website so I’m going to take a shortcut and announce that OLGA is live and ready to use!!

Anyone interested in taking her for a test drive can send me an email and I’ll send you a log in and password along with a temporary link where you can go to use the system. When I finish the new site I’ll let you know when you can link to OLGA directly from there I don’t have nearly the styles in the database that I’d like but Travas has just tweaked the program so that it only takes me about 25 keystrokes and less than 3 minutes to fill in the data for 9 fit points on sizes 1-24 and widths AAAA through EEEEEE. So if you’re looking for a style and don’t see it, just email me the style number and I’ll add it ASAP.

Soon we’ll add a front end search where you can enter the heel height, type of footwear, toe width, toe shape, and gender and get a list of styles, along with a four view picture that match that description. Then you’ll be able to select the style and go to the size search. OLGA’s still a work in progress and we’re open to critique and suggestions so don’t be bashful.

That’s it for now. I’ll get the OLGA log ins to you all as soon as I can. No guarantees this week though. And just in case you’re wondering....no I don’t speak Spanish other than being able to order a beer and ask where the bathroom is, not necessarily in that order.

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

[btippit]

To all:

It is with great sadness that I bring you all the sad news that my mentor, friend, and father figure, Wilson Schaedler has passed away at the age of 90 at his home in Southern Missouri.

Many of you have heard me speak of Wilson on numerous occasions and therefore you know that we have lost one of the greatest last makers ever to pick up a #49 Nicholson rasp. Much more than that the world has lost a true gentleman in every sense of the word.

Wilson taught me as much or more about life as he did about last making and he did it with a grace and kindness that is all to rare today. When it came to life's lessons, Wilson never preached or lectured. He didn't have to. He simply lived his life in a way that made you want to emulate him, all the while knowing that you would most likely never reach that level. I know I never did.

Up until he was diagnosed with stomach cancer a couple of months ago Wilson was still quite active, carving wood and even going on a float trip in August. He leaves the world having made it a better place just by being a part of the many lives he touched.

Juel and I were fortunate enough to have a chance to visit with Wilson a couple of weeks ago on our way down to the Roundup. He was having a very good day and we enjoyed a nice visit with him and his family. We reminisced about days gone by and marveled and the changes in the industry during the past few decades. And then we left. And now he's gone.

There are two things that come to my mind regarding Wilson's passing. The first is, don't wait for the "right moment" for that phone call you've been meaning to make or that visit you just haven't had time for. We don't always have as much time as we think we do. Let those you care about know it while you still can. I was lucky to have the chance to do that with Wilson.

The second thing is demonstrated on this forum every day. We need to teach what we know to any young (or old) person who wants to learn it. It doesn't matter if it's measuring a foot, bubbling up a last, sewing a vamp, or manipulating a CAD system. If we don't do what Wilson did and eagerly seek out those who want to learn more, then someday our tools and web postings will be relics found by a generation that will have no idea what went in to making good footwear, and good people.

It will be a long sad flight home from Mexico for me tomorrow but I'll try to have more smiles from the memories than tears for the loss. If you did not have the chance to meet Wilson go find a copy of the Brooks and Dunn song, "Believe" and listen to it closely. Wilson was my Mr. Wrigley.

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

[dw]

Bill,

I am very sorry for your loss. You have my deepest condolences and sympathy. Those who honour us enough to teach us, give us more than we can ever repay. The only way we even come close is to mentor someone else, in turn.

Those who teach us about life, bind us, not just to themselves, but to all humanity.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[shoestring]

Bill,
My condolences to you in the lost of such a good friend,but through his lessons he will always be with you.

Ed

[dearbone]

Bill
I am sorry to hear about the lost of your friend and mentor, May the spirit of this good man stays with you and may God give you long and healthy life.
Nasser

[btippit]

DW, Ed, Nasser, and those of you who contacted me privately....thank you for your kind words. Sorry it took so long for me to acknowledge them. When I got back from Mexico I tried to just shut down as much as I could so that I could recharge my batteries after what has been a challenging September and October. I'm not sure how recharged I am but I will be answering your emails and phone messages soon.

Thanks again,

Bill

[btippit]

To all:

I am very pleased to announce that as of two o'clock this morning I had launched my revised and hopefully improved website along with a registration form to fill out for any of you who want to take OLGA for a test drive.

However, I am absolutely THRILLED to announce that now, nearly 15 hours later, the site is working and you can actually enter information on the registration form. I forgot and uploaded a lot of heavy BMP pictures but it was 2:00am. I'm just happy they were pictures of lasts and nothing else. Be sure to dump your cache or just refresh when you get to each new page or you'll see the same thing that's been up there for nearly 2 years.

There is also a new, updated Western Boot last catalog on the Custom Last page. Men's and women's shoe lasts catalogs to follow very soon.

We are building a front end search for OLGA where you will be able to enter a description of the footwear you're making (Western Boot, pump, oxford, sandal, etc.), gender, heel height, toe shape, and toe width and get some thumbnails that can be enlarged so that you can select a new style after seeing it. I'll let you know when that's up. Meanwhile, if you don't know the model number of the last you want use one of the forms on the site or just email me and tell me what you're looking for. I'll send you some screen shots and hopefully by the time you select a style I'll have the data entered in OLGA.

There's a new video tutorial (with SOUND this time) on the site as well. That, plus the information you'll get with your registration should explain things pretty well but don't hesitate to ask questions or make comments.

The purpose of OLGA is to let the footwear makers know exactly what the measurements will be when they order a standard size. Because of my schedule I'm doing everything I can to make sure I don't take any orders for semi or fully customized lasts any more....only in very special circumstances. OLGA allows you to overcome the differences in measurements from style to style and let's you make a more logical decision on selecting what you're ordering and hopefully it keeps me out of the process as much as possible.

For now, once you select your style and size, just email me or call if you have to with your order. Soon you'll be able to order entirely online from a secure site.

We'll be making improvements and getting that front end search on there ASAP so keep checking back often.

Oh, here's another tip. If you see a white background on the website you're looking at an old page that was stored in your cache. Just refresh and you should see that nice, depressing, gray background I choose.

Thanks for your patience and I'm looking forward to an inbox full of OLGA registration requests when I get back from taking my wife to dinner tonight.

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

[daniel_wegan]

Hi! My Name is Daniel...From Sweden and this is my first post here.. Be gentle
My question is this....I have been lurking here a while and realized people are using stock lasts, as they are or modify the to fit.
Where does one get these lasts and so on.
I am just getting into this whole shoemaking thing and I figured I will be i enough trouble as it is without having to make my own lasts fro scratch.

Thanks

Daniel Wegan

[lancepryor]

Daniel:

I think in America most bootmakers have purchased old lasts from various bootmaking companies, or they have had lasts copied by people such as Bill Tippit. However, in Sweden perhaps the best place to order a last would be from Kopitarna --

http://www.kopitarna-sevnica.si/hun/kopita.M.

or M. Spenle lasts from Germany:

Spenle Schuhleistenfabrik GmbH
Bahnhofstr. 39
99755 Ellrich
Germany
TEL : +49 (0) (36332) 20281
FAX : +49 (0) (36332) 20394
e-mail: bestellung@spenle.de


I believe that Swedish former (and future?) forum participant Janne Melkersson has ordered lasts from them before.

Another option is SpringLine from Northampton, England
http://www.springline.net

They offer discounts for students, so that would perhaps work for you

Please let us know what you figure out.

Lance

[paul]

Daniel,

Hello and welcome.

Lance's info will be good for you.

And for a thourough understanding of lasts, do spend some time on Bill's web page, posted just above Lance.

Understanding lasts and all there is to the tool that it is, can be a long road. Getting on track through a professional like Bill is a short cut.

Enjoy the journey,
Paul

[j_johansen]

Marcell,
Are the lasts you use for your more modern looking chisel toe mens dress shoe proprietary or are they available for other makers to buy? If so, who makes them, style #'s?
Thanks, J. Johansen

[lancepryor]

If anyone is interested in taking a crack at making lasts, I am having a bespoke last "blank" copied by Bill Tippit's Mexican supplier and would be happy to supply these at cost to HCC members. The blank is an oversized (in girth and insole width) model used as the foundation for a last and was sourced from an English bespoke maker. If you are interested, drop me an e-mail and I can provide you further information. A pic of the blank is below, next to a factory 9.5D last for comparison purposes. The blank can be graded for length and girth/width, so if you know your desired length, you can have a great starting point without having to begin with a chunk of firewood!

I am going to finalize my order in the next couple of days and would need to include your order with mine, so if you're interested please let me know soon.

Thanks,
Lance

ps I am intending this offer primarily for folks in the US and Canada, as I don't really want to be shipping lots of stuff around the globe and am not doing this for a profit. If someone outside of North America wants me to send some blanks, I'll consider it but am making no promises.

7879.jpg

7880.jpg

7881.jpg

(Message edited by lancepryor on August 18, 2008)

[lancepryor]

A number of folks have e-mailed with inquiries about ordering the last blanks. Here is a spliced together summary of what people seem to want to know about -- apologies for any redundancy or lack of clarity.


These are shoe -- not boot -- last blanks [aka 'fine turns'], the original of which was sourced from a bespoke lastmaker in the UK. He uses these blanks as the basis for all of the shoe lasts he makes. The last is set up for approximately a 3/4 inch heel height. The blanks would be in wood with a 'scoop block.'

If you know how finished factory lasts are made, from the perspective of the production of additional blanks you can think of the 9.5EEE blank as simply a shoe last 'model.' When shoe lasts are made, the factory starts with a 'model,' which is then used as the basis for an entire range of sizes, both lengths and 'widths'/girths i.e. the model is 'graded' to produce the range of lengths and widths/girths desired for production of a range of sizes. So, the same can be done with the blank.

Thus, to summarize, the way to do things in ordering these blanks is to first settle on the proper length last (based on the heel to inside joint measurement); thus, the blank you receive would have the proper length, and you would need to reduce the various width/girths, but not mess around with the length. When trying to alter the heel to ball length, it is a real challenge to end up with a good shape in the resulting heel, so having that part of the equation already done makes things alot easier -- though certainly not easy. If you wanted to get to a narrow size, you could also order the blanks graded down in terms of girth, so that you wouldn't have to take off as much wood to get to the finished last.

Thus, if you decide to order, I think you want to make sure to get the proper length -- if you can be specific with your measurements -- heel to inside ball length -- we can ensure you get the right blank. Obviously, you could always alter the blank by taking off or adding material to the heel if the length ends up being way off, but it is far easier to start with the the right size in the first place. The 9.5EEE blank has a heel feather line to inside ball length of almost exactly 8.5 inches -- on the pic in the previous post, this is measured from the center to the heel feather line up the mid-line of the last to the line drawn from the inside/medial joint [thus, from the back of the heel curve (up the foot) that would make it more like 8.7 inches, since a typical heel curve is 5mm or about 0.2 inches].

To change the length of the last blank, you order a different size; each full size changes the length 1/3 inch, so a half size is 1/6 inch. Thus, for example, a size 8EEE last would have a heel feather line to ball length of 8.0 inches (8.5 - [1.5 sizes X 1/3 inch/size = 1/2 inch]).

Because of the idiosyncrasies of the lastmaking industry, if you order a 'narrower' blank/grade the girth down from EEE to EE to E to D, for each grade the last becomes a bit shorter (1/24 inch per grade); once you grade below D (e.g. D to C, C to B, etc), there is no further decrease in length.

To get to a functional last you basically need to: order the proper length blank; pare off the extra wood ('dogs'?) left from the turning which are on the heel back and toe bottom; and then take the last down to your desired insole shape, toe shape and height, overall shape and girth measurements. The insole is shaped to allow a fair amount of latitude in the exact location of the joints, but obviously you want to get started with as close to the correct length as you can. You then use a rasp, surform, or microplanes to get the last down to where you want it.

I want make sure people understand one thing: these are last BLANKS, so they will be oversized in all girth dimensions. Even though the length should be correct (assuming you order the right size), and the overall general shape of the last is there, there is quite a bit of wood you will need to take off in order to get to the desired girths for a finished last. So, it is not like you're buying a finished last that you would just need to tweak. I think people can do it, particularly if they have a finished last to look at for comparison purposes; however, don't assume it is easy to get from the blank to a finished last that actually fits and looks good -- there is a reason why lastmaking apprenticeships can be many years in duration. You can look at the pics I in my previous post to see how much smaller in girth the 9.5D finished last is when compared to the 9.5EEE blank next to it.

Really, for most people, I thought they might have fun giving it a try, but please don't have unrealistic expectations about the final result.

I did not order them with a thimble, as I might want to thin down the top of the quarters (cone?) more than a thimble's diameter would allow. A thimble might be a possibility -- I'm checking with Bill about that. This is not a one time thing, once the last is digitized I can order more. However, I don't think the factory or Bill would be happy with frequent small orders, so it would really be much more of an occasional thing and dependent on where I go with my last and shoemaking experiments.

Lance

[btippit]

Lance,

I just want to point out a couple of things. First, the HALF SIZE grade of 1/6" (4.233mm) per whole size is for the entire length of the last. The heel to ball length would not grade that full 1/6"". Heel to ball grades in the same proportion as it relates to heel to toe. Thus, in the picture below, the heel to ball length would grade 2.85mm per 1/2 size (67.3% of 4.233) because the H2B measure is 67.3% of the heel to toe. The picture is a reduced version of the one on OLGA showing how we measure the insole so don't pay attention to the comments. I just hope the lines show up. If they don't I'll upload the PDF file that contains the picture.

7885.jpg

Also, perhaps an easier way of reducing the heel to ball on a workbench would be to build up at and behind the medial ball to "bring it back" the distance you need, rather than taking off the back of the heel which involves then reshaping that whole counter area. Just a thought.

The factory will definitely not want to do this often so let's get as many people on board as we can. As this is our first such order, there's not even a guarantee that they'll want to do it again after this time. I have no reason to believe they won't but you never know.

As for thimbles, they should not be a problem but I know for a fact the factory will want them all one way so it will be either all thimbles or no thimbles and since this is your project and you're offering them as a favor I'd say no thimbles and all scoop blocks (before someone asks for v-cuts).

That's all I've got. Now to see if the lines showed up.

Bill “The Last Man Standing” Tippit
www.globalfootwearsolutions.com

[dearbone]

Bill,

It was me who asked for thimbles,and i will tell you why,i saw my teacher on many occasions using thimble shoe last to make boots by adding a piece of hard leather to the back of the last as to straighten the back line to resemble the boot last,he also added a piece of leather to the instep to make the curve higher and sharper,than use them to make boots,that was my reasoning for asking for thimbles instead of scoops,Only If i can convince Lance to go with thimbles,but that is a big if,however i still think he can narrows down the cone even with the thimbles there!i will take the scoop if it makes it easier in general.

my 2 cents worth

Regards Nasser

[lancepryor]

Thanks Bill. I had given a slight thought to that grading issue but hadn't thought it through -- thanks for catching it, and I'll make sure anyone who orders has had this point clarified.

One Big Correction: the heel to ball length on this Blank is 7.5 inches, not 8.5 inches.

Further, on this blank (model) the heel to medial ball (as opposed to the inside ball, and as measured per Bill's pic above) is about 7.0 inches, and the overall length is about 11.5 inches, so the grading of the heel to ball length would be:
1/3 inch X 7.0/11.5 = 1/3 X .61 = .20 inches/full size.

Bill: thanks for catching that.

Lance

[erickgeer]

Nasser- The thimble is only the means for placing the last on a lasting stand/pin- it doesn't sound like you are talking of the same thing.

thimbles can be approximated by taking a bit of pipe (with the correct inside diameter) and drilling the appropriate hole. From my experience, I'd say it is easier to make your own hole and installing a thimble than it is to adjust around an existing thimble.

I have bought thimbles from Larry in the past, but I don't know how large his stock in them is- Larry?

For modification and adjustment purposes, I suggest that scoop blocks are much easier to deal with than v-cut hinges.

Erick

[jesselee]

Lance,
Any possibilities of getting 1860-1890 blanks for Civil War through the cowboy era with correct profile and sole contour? I can supply originals and measurements. They have to be cone lasts, not hinged and made of wood. Right now we are using original period lasts.

Cheers,
JesseLee

[dearbone]

7887.jpg

Okay this is what i thought to be the thimble last we were taking about,it has a hinge(spring)that makes it break on the stand and become smaller to get the work out,so i don't know,if Lance or Bill and I are talking about the same thing.

Nasser

[lancepryor]

JesseLee:

Not from me &#34. I only have this one blank model and am having some copies made for personal use. I just thought there might be some other folks whose judgement is as bad as mine and thus would want to try their hand at making lasts; since I was ordering anyway, I decided to give them their chance.

If you have originals, I am sure Bill would consider undertaking a digitization of them; then they could be made by his suppliers. I don't know if there are any unusual features that would render the old last shape unmakeable on the new lathes -- I wouldn't think so, but Bill is the man to talk to.

Lance

[erickgeer]

Nasser,

Those are what we are calling "V-cut" hinges.

Lance,

I'm trying to one-up you- I'm trying to get raw blocks!

Erick

[btippit]

To all:

Let's not get carried away. The factory is doing this for me as a favor mostly, as is the case with almost all of my work. Even doing single pairs of regular, plastic lasts is an inconvenience for them but for a price they're willing to accommodate me and my customers. The blanks for Lance's bespoke last are really a special order because they have to turn them in the model room's lathe (which filters the waste to a rubbish area) or, they have to do them on a Saturday when they can disconnect a production lathe from the plastic reclamation system and then sweep up the sawdust. If everyone comes along with a different last and wants wooden blanks I'm not so sure they will be willing to do this. I've probably had requests for less than 10 pairs of wood lasts in the past 4 years so a sudden size runs of wood blanks is out of the ordinary but they agreed. I will definitely have to check before I can promise there will be future orders of these available. I certainly don't want wood blanks to make them start having second thoughts about doing ALL of my custom work.

If the factory in Mexico suddenly became unavailable I'd have to outsource my orders to Europe and deal with the Euro/Dollar debacle or China, which, due to transportation costs going through the roof has suddenly lost it's appeal to me.

Let me see how they react to this first order before I send up any trial balloons on different styles.

On the other hand Jesse, if you want those period lasts digitized to produce normal pairs contact me and we can discuss the prices, etc.

Bill “The Last Man Standing” Tippit
www.globalfootwearsolutions.com

[dearbone]

Erick,

i think it is time to suggest to the admin for glossary of terminology,i as an unschooled shoemaker can surly benefit from such a list,but here is the thing,in my mind thimbles on the last are associated with and only there on "V cuts"lasts for the purpose of breaking the last,i have no other use for the thimble on last,but to break(bend)it on the stand to get the shoe out.

Nasser

[elstoof]

Nasser,

I don't think you would ever find a blank or rough turn intended for bespoke lastmaking with a hinge already built into it as it's just not practical. The blanks I work with need to be as flexible as possible, for example if half an inch needs to taken from the heel height then it's possible with the blanks that Lance is offering but not with the hinged examples you illustrated. In fact, as a lastmaker I've never even seen, "in the flesh", a hinged last, as odd as it may seem. (as an aside, I'm very curious about those blanks, it's a highly interesting insight into how other west end firms work)

As far as a glossary goes, I think anything of the sort would be open to even more fervent debate than this, and perhaps not the most productive!

Nicholas