Alasdair,

I have found that out. The handle must be pulled consistently. Mostly I am using it to side seam boots.
I have not used it for soles yet, that' a plan for when the shop is more than 40 degrees. Just having the normal plate, I plan to cut a channel in the soles to both protect the stitches and make the leather thinner.

Cheers,
JesseLee

Alasdair
the foot should lift during one revolotion. I don't know how to adjust this maybe someone else does. It doesn't need to lift much mine just lift a couple of millimetres.

I got mine up and running today and it did sew quite alright. I need to make some trimming and then it is good for work.

Here is a photo of todays test work. It is 9 spi with the awl size 47 and needle size 50. I need to find some thinner tread before I'm happy with the result. The shortest stitches it could do was 11 spi.

Janne

JesseLee,

I'm afraid that's all I can offer by way of suggestion. Someone more familiar with them like Al or HenryV, if he still reads this board, may have better ideas.

Sorry I can't help more. If I do think of something while tinkering with my machines I'll let you know.

Jan-Erik,

That's a nice stitch. Better than mine will lay down right now. I'm having trouble with thread breaking because the thread pickup hook at the top is slightly out of whack and is picking up both threads. The hook and awl were slightly out of line too, but I fixed that by shifting the awl carrier slightly to line them up.

I've only got size 43 hooks in decent condition which are too big for the #8 thread I have and I've no idea what sizes the awls I have are, there was just a random selection of them in the tin that came with the machine.

The foot doesn't lift at all on my machine, which is slightly marking up the work. I'll have to pull it apart again to figure out why.

I have another question about my outsolder, born of inexperience with this type of machine.

How close should the hook follow the awl down through the work? From reading about machines like the Campbell I got the impression that they should be very close, but on my machine there's a good distance between them and I'm not sure if it's an issue or not.





The hook is in the correct place, any lower and the lower looper will hang up on it and do Bad Things.



I can't see a way to raise the awl any higher either so I'm going to assume that this is normal and nothing to worry about, but I thought I'd ask just in case.

Thanks.

Alasdair,

Thanks for the help you have given me. I am wondering about that piece under the shuttle guide. Is it supposed to have some slack? When I push it up from underneath it has maybe a 1/16 to 3/32nds play. What is this part?

Cheers,

JesseLee

JesseLee,

You mean the cog that bolts to the bottom of the shuttle carrier?

I'm not sure if there's supposed to be slack in that or not, both of my machines have some, but the one that currently doesn't sew has a lot more slack than the other which is causing the shuttle to bind up.

Thinking about this, that may be your issue. When you have this problem does the machine just bind up, or does the handle keep moving without the needle arm moving sideways?

Alasdair
"I'm having trouble with thread breaking because the thread pickup hook at the top is slightly out of whack and is picking up both threads"

This is esay to adjust, just move the thread picup a bit to the right by loosen the front bolt. Doing this will change the possition of the needle guide which is on the same shaft so you have to loosen the bolt that holds it to put it back.

About your other question my experience is that the distance between the awl and the needle when the presser foot is down and locked could be about 10 millimetre to 3 millimetre. I have tried them all and anything seems to work.

If you have a problem to find awls and needles please let me know.

Alasdair,

That's exactly the part. You could be right on the matter. Perhaps it needs a shim.

Cheers,

JesseLee

Alasdair Muckart and Jan Erik. This is my Pedersen. I was also given one for free that I will have fore spare parts. I have a commercial and 2 advertising fore it as well.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/skomakeri/DSC00327.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/Ludvig/SCAN0006.jpg

Ludvig,welcome to the forum.
Thanks for posting the photos, the machine sure was looking good when new.

När du kommer och hälsar på vore jag glad om du tog med dig manualen så jag kan kopiera den.

Thats Swedish for when you visit me please bring the manual so I can sopy it.

Janne

(Message edited by janne melkersson on January 28, 2011)

Ludvig,

Thank you for those pictures. Does your one still have the oil pump intact?

I do not have an oil pump that I know of.
Janne I do't have a manual.

Ludvig
www.Ludvigs.nu

Ludvig,
ok, I was hoping you had a manual.


Alisdar,

There is no oil pump on my 309 but the bigger 317 have an hydralic brake system.

Alasdair,
Have you got any pointers for using an ancient Gritzner for sole stitching? Also what size of needle for a 7 cord Barbours linen and are they available.

Cheers,

JesseLee

Hi JesseLee,

I haven't got mine fully working yet, it's dropping stitches every 10 or so cycles. I may need to get a different knife for it.

Tom O'Sullivan uses one and might have some good pointers. I have a manual he was kind enough to scan and will get it online today.

Alasdair,

I'm new to these fine old ladies. I have seen one like yours in action. Nice stitching. I wonder if they take the same needles as the early models. BTW, do you know when the first ones were made?

Cheers,

JesseLee

Hi, new to the Forum. I am a Shoe Repairer and had a question on Landis Curved Needle Stitchers. Just bought a Landis 12G for $200.00 near me it Stitches awesome and everything is in great condition, no problems whatsoever. But was wondering what the difference is between the G,K & L's. Which one you prefer and which is most desirable, stitches best, easiest, etc. Any input would be Great.

Tim,

Welcome to the forum.

Functionally, if the machine is in good condition and running well, there is not all that much difference that is significant...mostly more chrome with the newer models.

I myself have an "F"--a late model "F" that has some of the features of the chronologically next model (the "G" ). I have been using it for nearly forty years.

Even late model manuals can still be useful for the older models that's how similar they are.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Tim

I have both a G and an F. Very few differances in function. G has a few more bells and whistles. Would have a Rapid E if I could justify it.

Don

A question re: curved needles for handsewn welt: Have any of you ever tried using quilter's needles? Or any sort of needle you have found effective, other than do-it-yourself guitar-string needles or hog bristle?

lokking for a way to circumvent the 12l. i would like a machine that i can close a shoe on and sew the welt to the sole or mid, after changing thread. got any ideas?

Hi Adam,

Nothing will sew as close as a curved needle machine, however a Campbell can get pretty close, and there is a needle plate that will open the stitch groove in the sole. You sew the boot/shoe rightside up as the shuttle is on the bottom of the machine. The Campbell will do a fantastic job on the welted side seams, but for other closing, the 31-20 or the 5550 is the better machine, it's a little more nimble than the Campbell and you can decorate your tops with the 31.

Please note that you can buy a 12, a finisher (Landis 400 or so), a 5 in 1, a splitter, and a couple of 31s for what you will pay for a Campbell.

Art