In search of custom shoemaker

Looking for someone to make a particular style of boot? Need a mentor? Post a notice here.
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ghlawal
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#76 Post by ghlawal »

Hi Folks,Am looking for anyone that is willing to teach shoemaking in the us or canada and willing to relocate.currently living in maryland.
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sorrell
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#77 Post by sorrell »

Gbolahan,
Bill Shanor in Oregon teaches shoemaking. The web address for his courses is www.shoemaking.com

Lisa
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athan_chilton
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#78 Post by athan_chilton »

Lisa, do you know Bill, and/or do you recommend his school? Just curious!
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sorrell
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#79 Post by sorrell »

Athan,
Yes, I know Bill; he's a nice guy. I'm sending my daughter Paige out there for a two week course in making ladies high heels this summer.

Lisa
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Seeking Professor of Accessory Design

#80 Post by kevans »

Professor of Accessory Design

SCAD Savannah seeks candidates for full-time faculty positions in accessory design. Expertise in handbag design and small leather goods, pattern making and construction as well as technical experience in design theory is preferred. Additionally, candidates also may have design and construction experience in footwear and millinery. Qualified candidates should have a terminal degree or its equivalent in accessory design or a related field. College-level teaching experience is preferred.

The SCAD accessory design program teaches students to conceptualize, design and execute an eclectic range of high quality fashion accessories, priming them for careers in the thriving accessories industry. At SCAD, accessory design students learn to imagine, design and execute innovative and luxurious products for a competitive fashion market. As in the professional world beyond SCAD, accessory design students consistently collaborate with their peers in various disciplines including fashion, fibers, industrial design, and graphic design. An international faculty teaches classes with expertise in accessory design, including the art of bespoke shoemaking. Through every step of the design process, from concept to completion, faculty members provide unparalleled and individual attention to the refined details that make a professional accessory designer succeed.

For complete submission requirements, please visit our website using the URL listed and follow application instructions:
https://scadjobs.com/applicants/Central?quickFind=53319

Should you have questions regarding your application package, you may submit an email to Human Resources at scadfaculty@scad.edu.

ABOUT SCAD
The Savannah College of Art and Design is a private, nonprofit, accredited institution conferring bachelor’s and master’s degrees in distinctive locations and online to prepare talented students for professional careers. The diverse student body of more than 11,000 comes from all 50 United States, three U.S. territories and more than 100 countries worldwide. The education and career preparation of each student are nurtured and cultivated by a faculty of more than 700 professors with extraordinary academic credentials and valuable professional experience. Through individual attention in an inspiring university environment, and with advanced, professional-level technology, equipment and learning resources, SCAD is uniquely qualified to provide an exceptional education and unparalleled career preparation. SCAD has garnered acclaim from respected organizations and publications; see the latest at www.scad.edu/recognition. SCAD is an Equal Opportunity / Affirmative Action Employer and welcomes all persons without regard to race, color, national origin, religion, gender, age, sexual orientation or disability.
Last edited by kevans on Tue May 07, 2013 8:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#81 Post by kevans »

Accessory Studio Technician and Lecturer

The accessory studio technician and lecturer has a dual role: teaching and working with faculty, students and staff to ensure safety, efficiency and quality in the accessory design department. The accessory studio technician and lecturer manages studios, equipment, supplies and work-study students. The accessory studio technician and lecturer also supports projects, exhibitions and events in or related to the accessory design department. The successful candidate will be comfortable working independently or as part of a team and must be able to work with a varied group while exhibiting patience, professionalism, flexibility and willingness to learn new information. The candidate will be able to multitask, be a creative problem-solver and be able to work with little supervision on many complicated tasks. Strong organization and time-management skills are required. The individual must be familiar with equipment and processes related to the following: industrial sewing machines (cylinder and post) from threading to maintenance; function and use of tools; and leather working experience. The individual should have experience with the use and functions of industrial sewing machines (on both cylinder and post) and other machines related to accessory design, as well as the processes to be able to use, repair/troubleshoot and supervise/instruct others on the equipment.

Although this is a full-time staff position, the successful candidate will also be expected to teach in the accessory design program. The successful candidate should have expertise in handbag and/or footwear design, pattern making and construction. Qualified candidates should have a terminal degree or its equivalent in accessory design or a related field.

For complete submission requirements, please visit our website using the URL listed and follow application instructions:

https://scadjobs.com/applicants/Central?quickFind=53169

Should you have questions regarding your application package, you may submit an email to Human Resources at scadfaculty@scad.edu.
das
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#82 Post by das »

Proxy Post:

Hello
I have a daughter with men's size 15 on her left foot and men's 12 on her right (US sizes)
Can anyone get shoes made for her?
Thanks for any help.
John Koszarek
jkoszarek@wi.rr.com
dlskidmore
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#83 Post by dlskidmore »

Recently read on another discussion group:
"Virtually no-one makes bespoke shoes any more. The guys that do charge around $700 to $1000 for a pair."

Are there any good indexes of craftsmen who could prove this fellow wrong about the first part? I did send him a link to your gallery here.
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#84 Post by romango »

I would say that $700 - $1000 is on the low end of pricing. That would be a very good price! IMHO.
lancepryor
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#85 Post by lancepryor »

John Lobb (London): Leather Shoes $4464 (plus 20% VAT if you live in the UK); crocodile/alligator shoes: $13,326 !!!! Shoe trees $865 and up.

Foster & Sons: $3680 (+ VAT); Crocodile $8000

Gaziano & Girling: around $4000 (+ VAT)

John Lobb Paris (separate operation from Lobb St James): $6500 and up

Assuming a new, true bespoke last, new pattern, etc. the total hours of labor for a fully handmade, bespoke shoe have to be 50 or more. Give say $250 for materials, and one can see why $750 to $1000 is on the low end of pricing.
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#86 Post by dlskidmore »

Yes, but the first part about no-one doing it is wrong. I see you guy's work in the gallery all the time. How do people go about finding a cordwainer near them? Cost is irrelevant if you have a fit issue with commercial shoes.
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vonallentx
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#87 Post by vonallentx »

Are there any Swiss shoemakers on this forum?
d2don
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#88 Post by d2don »

I am looking for a few good people to help make custom cycling shoes. In particular I need a Stitcher, a laster, and a soler.
These is a permanent full time positions in Eagle, Co
Please contact me if interested.
Thanks,
Don Lamson
don@d2shoe.com
970-328-6870
craigandrew

Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#89 Post by craigandrew »

A relative told me at one time there was a Gentleman by the name of Mark James (his business was called "Mark James Designs&#34Image who worked out of Rome, Georgia. I tried all the info found on the Internet but have been unable to locate him.

CRAIG
craigandrew

Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#90 Post by craigandrew »

Does anyone know of Mr. James..........or of a Custom Western Boot maker near the area of upstate (North West) South Carolina.......North East Georgia.....Eastern Tennessee?

Thank you.

CRAIG
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#91 Post by brooklyn_edie »

try this:

Mark James Designs
Mark James
Broad Street
Rome, GA 30161
(706) 346-0607
http://www.markjamesdesigns.com
mark@markjamesdesigns.com

There is the famed Manuel in Nashville

There's a few bootmakers next door in Arkansas. I don't see anyone in SC.

Check out Jennifer June's website on cowboy boots:
http://www.dimlights.com/custom-boots/cowboyboot-makers/
wes_s

Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#92 Post by wes_s »

Hey Guys-
Just joined the forum. I'm out of Nashville, TN.
craigandrew

Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#93 Post by craigandrew »

Hi Brooklyn_edie:

Thank you for the information.

I called and they never heard of him.

Good try though.

Cheers,
CRAIG
HNW
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#94 Post by HNW »

Hello all,

Are there any English shoemakers on this forum?
Actually, I ought rephrase that.

Are there any shoemakers on this forum nationality unimportant but presently making shoes/boots within England?
There, I think that's better.

Many thanks, HNW

edit: oh, unlucky thirteenth post. Don't like that much.
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#95 Post by lancepryor »

Howard:

There have been a few British shoemakers to participate over the years, but only episodically, and I don't think any are participating actively right now.

Lance
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#96 Post by HNW »

Hey Lance,

Yes I thought I had seen Philip Taylor had posted here some time ago, just wasn't aware of many, if any, others..

Just replying to your kind pm.

cheers,
Howard
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farmerfalconer
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#97 Post by farmerfalconer »

Hello all,
In April I will be turning 18. I would like to apprentice under a proffesional bespoke shoemaker and really hone my skills. Unfortunately, I simply couldnt afford to pay someone for a class. Instead Im looking for more of the old fashioned apprentiship. I wouldnt want to come and just learn to make one pair for myself but instead would prefer to work for the person for some years and "earn my keep" so to speak. Im not asking for room and board, but simply training and an opportunity to gain experience in exchange for my labor. Obviously I will have little expierience to start with so I would pay for any money lost in my mistakes.

If anyone is looking for a worker pls let me know. Im not asking for pay but simply a chance to gain knowledge.

Im willing to travel anywhere including other countries.

Thanks very much and merry Christmas!

-Cody
mw313
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#98 Post by mw313 »

Hi everyone,

I just signed up on here after doing a great deal of searching for a custom shoemaker for my very unusual feet. I have spoken to just about all of the major shoe companies like AE and Alden in the US, all of the major UK makers (Church's, C&J, Cheaney, Barker, Loake, Tricker's, Sanders, and even G&G, EG, John Lobb, Cleaverley, etc), as well as many Italian shoe makers (both well known and independent bespoke makers). I even have spoken to some other less known makers like Vass and St. Crispins to just name a few. Most of them were so surprised when hearing about my size and some even laughed. All of the ones that also offered bespoke just said that they would do bespoke but would have to see me and would charge some absolutely crazy prices. In some cases I was told $6000 US and up for basic leather. I know that bespoke shoes are expensive, due to top quality materials, construction methods, and the time involved, but some of the prices seemed like they were just trying to nicely tell me that it would be too much work for them to deal with, unless they would make some serious money. There were some of the bespoke makers in Italy and Eastern Europe who were more reasonable but they don't visit the US and the trip to Italy would easily get the cost back up the the same range.

My problem is that I am a US 14 or 15 and extremely narrow in width. I don't have any foot problems and I'm only 24 so I would like to have some nice looking shoes in more classic styles. I don't need or really care for the really modern, fashionable, flashy styles anyway. I actually am in medical school at Temple University studying Podiatry as well as Foot/Ankle Surgery as my subspecialty. Everyone that i have spoken to has had a little laugh at that since I want to help people's foot problems but have such trouble getting shoes myself. I will have a surgical residency after finishing my doctorate, so it will be many years before I can afford such expensive shoes.


I have been able to find a few brands who were willing to work with my size range so far so here are a few of the brands, lasts, and sizes that work for me:

Allen Edmonds - 1 (611) or 7 (97) Last: 14 A (with 2 socks), 14AA (one sock), or 15AAA (2 socks) (They can’t make a 15AAAA)

Alden - Barrie or Trubalance Lasts (they run .5 size long): 13.5A or 14AA (2 socks and still fit generously) They finally got me a 14AAA which works quite well and I can get away with just one dress sock.

Chruch’s – 73 Last: 140B (2 socks)

Crockett and Jones – 341 Last: 13C UK (2 socks and still fits generously)

I hope that this information may help somewhat in terms of my sizing if anyone is familiar with the sizing of any of the above shoe brands. My problem with these shoes is that because they are still wide, they can get massive creasing and damage very quickly from the extra volume and material. I have tried with the extra socks, tongue pads, etc, but they only do so much. I even have considered having additional leather pieces made into insoles to attach to the current leather insole to help lift my foot and effectively decrease with width, but I don't feel comfortable adding leather like that myself. I also don't want to mix the synthetic insoles into the nice welted shoes, because I feel like it takes away from the feel that you get from the natural footbed. I already have spent quite a bit on shoes just to get close in fit and want to get some of the benefits from them in feel on the feet.

Here are some measurements that I have taken on my feet that helped to figure out some of the sizes in my other shoes. They will not be perfect because I didn’t have a pro take them but they may help a bit.

Right: Ball: about 24.7 cm in air (26 weight bearing)
Instep: 26 in the air (26.4 weight bearing)

Left: Ball: 24.5 cm in air (26 weight bearing)
Instep: 25.6 in air (26.3 weight bearing)

As you probably can see from the difference in air vs weight bearing, I do pronate (flatten out) but not too much. I do have somewhat high arch (varus and somewhat cavus foot) when not weight bearing. My foot does not become completely flat when standing. I still have plenty of arch left. My feet are about 30 cm long or so. About 1 foot long.

If this also helps, the width of my right foot is around 99-102mm at the widest point. It is tough to tell with a self measure but my left may be 1 or 2 mm different in width (around 100-103mm).



After all of that research, I started to hear from some specialty shoe stores to look around for some independent people in the United States. I was able to speak with a few and Randy Kroop suggested that I post a message on here to see if anyone would have any ideas for me. I was told that I really need to focus on getting a custom last made for me and then I can try out different shoe makers from there. Does that seem to be a good idea? I have even had problems with finding out that information. I have spoken to many people with websites on lasts and they said that they couldn't make any for me. I was able to get in touch with Jones and Vining in the US and well as Springline in the UK, who both said that they could make them for me granted I would have a pro take all of the measurements that they would want.

If anyone has ideas or contacts for people who could help me, I would greatly appreciate it. I would be interested in a way to get the lasts as well as contacts for good looking welted shoes. I have tried to get contacts from Temple doctors as well, but they only have orthopedic shoemakers who supposedly don't have experience with making sleeker shoes for a type of foot like mine. They usually just make custom molded for custom fit shoes, which I'm sure you all know can be quite voluminous.

To make things worse, I currently am a 3rd year (student doctor in my rotations) so time is a problem, so I only would be able to visit people that are somewhat in the region. I live in NJ so I could only visit Pa, NJ, NY, etc, unless someone could use measurements from professionals (doctors or pedorthists) near me. I also have spoken with Perry Ercolino in Pa, but his prices are too high for me to be able to afford while being in medical school and then having a surgical residency for the next few years after that. I don't know if he would be willing to take measurements for me, if that would help anyone else to be able to make something for me. I can get drawings, measurements, pictures, and even molds/casts made of my feet to help in any way possible.

I have a great interest in shoe construction and proper fit, so I would love to learn as much as possible about this field to help both my unique feet as well as the many patients that I will have with many foot problems who will want to get more normal and dressy looking shoes.

Thank you for any information that you can provide,

Matt Wohlgemuth

Edit (by admin): replies should be by PM or email.
C6LM
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#99 Post by C6LM »

Hi Everyone!

I'm looking for any US based shoemakers that are familiar with hand lasted cemented construction that might be interested in doing contract manufacturing for my company. We've developed the shoe but need to find an operation that can handle ongoing production. PM me if you are interested and I can provide more details.

Thanks!
C6LM
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Re: In search of custom shoemaker

#100 Post by C6LM »

Hi again everyone!

Looks like I have too few posts to respond to PMs so if you have PM'd me already just let me know your email address and I'll respond via email. I apologize for that.

Also, we're looking for a yearly production of roughly 1000 pairs on limited sizes (~4) if that info is helpful.

Thanks again!
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