OK Gang,
I went home yesterday, thinking about what I'd said, deciding (as it was a few years ago that I did the above test)to double check the stats. Couldn't find the builder's square so grabbed my foot long steel Rabone (up to 64ths). Trying it out on some 'roo in two directions ('horizontal' and 'vertical' for want of terminoligy) and hooking a 3-4ply thread through each set I was able to break through both, though one was slightly harder. It was a thicker thread than previously so maybe made it easier; maybe the other 'roo from years ago was an exceptional piece; or maybe I just wasn't game enough to keep pulling back then
Next I split a piece of 'roo down to approx. .3mm, with the grain running across, cut it lengthwise, dyed one half and stuck them together as an overlapping seam.
Using my glasses and a magnifing glass on a stand, I layed the ruler on a scored line and proceded to do an inch of 64ths. This proved to be easier if the ruler and leather were going up and down rather than across.
I made up a 1ply waxed end, and managed to sew the inch (just with glasses and a lamp. Pull the two thread ends backwards over the work after each stitch to make the next hole a *little* clearer and slide the awl tip from the last stitch till it hits the next hole). Time 50mins. for the sewing, which caught me by suprise as I thought it would be longer. Placing the work on our flatbed scanner, I have the results here (though it lookes much neater *not* magnified 10times
)
/image{64, hand and awl}
This awl was made out of a sewing needle with a 1/32" cutting edge put on it.
/image{awl}
The work, showing the bristles.
/image{work and bristles}
Getting closer
Also you can see a few stitch holes I did on their own for clarity.
/image{Closer}
The best half. I may have a go at another inch, hopefully with a better feel for tension, then test the first set for strength.
/image{the stitches}
The reverse side.
/image{reverse}
And a bit of scale
/image{scale}
I think if you were able to get the distances by eye/feel it would be easier and faster. At the above rate it would take me 10 hours to sew a throat onto an upper.
The finest I've done over any length, and by eye, is 18spi. In 'roo.
/image{vic-boot-18spi}
Over a shorter length I've managed 22spi on a heel cover ('roo), butted up cut edge to cut edge. And it took being stretched around the heel. Dunno about trying it on a welt/sole though
/image{17C-heel)
/image{17C heel 2]
Hope you like what I've put up. The '64' was fun, and exhilerating when finished.
Cheers
Duncan