The Screening Room

Videos of ordinary people demonstrating actual boot and shoemaking techniques without being controlled by a director.
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btippit

Re: The Screening Room

#51 Post by btippit » Thu Jul 19, 2007 7:38 am

DW & Robert,

We're in the process beta testing the application and tweaking it for better visual appeal. I'm also redesigning my website since it will have to be moved to a different hosting service with the debut of OLGA. This process may take several more weeks as I don't want to put my "little girl" out there if she's not ready to deal with the world. DW and I must have miscommunicated about the official release date but I was happy to see the short video on the forum for people to view. Once the service is on my website I'll post an announcement here and also announce the date for a live, online training session. A full length video will also be available at that time with sound and graphical call-outs.

Yes Rob, the numbers are in millimeters. Fractions are just too much of a pain in such a system and I don't think many people in our line of work use inches with decimals (I know I don't). Plus, that's how I grade the lasts, by converting all the old inch standards to metric.

Some of the features that have either already been changed since the video was made or will be changed in the near future are:

1) The results screen will now show "Last", "Foot", and "Buildup" with the build up being the Foot measurement subtracted from the Last measurement for each size, showing build up numbers as positive and the terrifying grind off numbers as negatives, on a red background.

2) Currently, the only last numbers that show in the results are the ones within the parameters on the search screen (FM +/-). The results are sorted with sizes with the largest number of fit points within those parameters at the top, descending down and if a fit point is outside the parameters we don't show the last measurement. This will change so that even those measurements outside the parameters will show. They will just be muted or faded or something to remind you that they're not as close as you wanted but at least you can see how much that size missed the mark by, thus helping on a second search.

3) You will be able to order the lasts online from a secure site using a credit card to save time.

In the near (I hope) future, OLGA will be integrated with the Lightbeam 3D foot scanner I'm involved with, automatically importing the measurements from the foot scan (taken wherever the boot/shoe maker wants to take them). From the beginning, customers purchasing lasts through OLGA rather than by phone, email, or mail will receive a "financial incentive". However, anyone owning a Lightbeam and purchasing through OLGA will see that incentive increased dramatically. This is all an attempt to speed up the process of getting lasts to you, which I know has been disappointing at times. The less time I'm on the phone or email, the more time I have to make lasts. That's why you don't see many posts from me anymore.

Another feature we're working on for the future is to make this a full blown database for the user so that they can search for a style by heel height, shoe/boot category, gender, toe width, and toe style. Browsing through 20-30 pictures of Western Boot lasts would be cumbersome enough for the customers but once I get over 500 shoe styles added to the database I'll need a more organized way for you to find what you are looking for so you'll know what model number to pull down in the search.

I'm really excited about the ability of OLGA to give customers a better idea of exactly what they will be getting when they order a last. We all know that a size 9D on one style might be vastly different from a 9D on another style. This way you will be able to have a real good idea how much work you will have to do to a last when you get it. You can even sit your customer down and show the numbers to him so he'll see why the last fee you are charging him is justified and probably too small to begin with. I'm sure some of your customers think you just pick a last off a shelf or buy one and immediately start making their footwear or maybe spend 15 minutes gluing some leather here or there. This will be a visual way to show them what needs to be done before you do it.

I'd also like to mention that another, more selfish reason for OLGA is to encourage customers to be able to pick out the best standard size and order it because the semi-customized and fully customized lasts really contribute to my having a lengthy backlog. Early in June my BACKLOG (not counting pairs I'd already shipped this year) was about 20% larger than my entire production for last year so something had to be done and I think this is a good solution. I'd love to hear more comments and suggestions though. Can't promise all of them will be implemented but we will consider everything.

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

chuck_deats

Re: The Screening Room

#52 Post by chuck_deats » Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:15 am

Tim, DW

Just a note to say thank you again for the videos. Just finished lasting and inseaming a pair of boots. Based on Tim's video, the lasting pliers seemed a little less clumsy. The toe wipe video combined with Tim's nail technique resulted in the best job I have done so far. Can't say I can do the hand jive, but the tightning technique works. BTW, something that does not work; made an awl handle from stacked leather sole scraps. Looks and feels nice, but the inseaming thread cuts between the layers when used for tightning.

Chuck

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Re: The Screening Room

#53 Post by kaspar » Thu Aug 09, 2007 10:46 pm

DW
Thank You for bristle videos.Have not so far used one, but now I know how they attach.
K.

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Re: The Screening Room

#54 Post by dw » Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:45 am

Kaspar,

It takes a bit of patience and determination, but once you get the hang of it you'll never use anything else.

Tight Stitches
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Re: The Screening Room

#55 Post by kaspar » Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:44 pm

DW,
I am eager to try this ASAP.
K.

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Re: The Screening Room

#56 Post by dw » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:20 pm

Marcell,

Thank you for a nice set of videos. I know you have more in the works. I am looking forward to them.

May I tell you how much I appreciate (if only because I know what goes into making them) you posting these to the Crispin Colloquy. You guys are the great.

Tim, that goes for you too.

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Re: The Screening Room

#57 Post by artzend » Mon Aug 13, 2007 4:35 pm

No worries DW,

I am not sure that I have anything else in the pipeline as most of my video was made for my book and has been used up, but I will see what I can come up with. If not now, then when I go back to Adelaide next year.

Tim

j1a2g3

Re: The Screening Room

#58 Post by j1a2g3 » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:35 pm

Marcell,

I really appreciated your two videos.

It showed me things I never saw before, the foot strap, the heating of the iron, the placing and glueing of all the piece together.

I also loved the music, Joel

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Re: The Screening Room

#59 Post by artzend » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:54 pm

Marcell,

I was taught to heat the irons up until a drop of water sizzled on them for a bit before evaporating, is that the same as you use. Heating can be a bit hit and miss if you don't know how much is too much.

Tim

marcell

Re: The Screening Room

#60 Post by marcell » Mon Aug 13, 2007 11:43 pm

Thanks All for your appreciation!

Tim, you are right - I also check it this way. I didn't put it to the video, like many other things is still missing, but as it is a professional forum, so it is important to mention. BTW I think I will make a much longer video from my work with all of the process, materials, and tools. I count on your help in that Tim!

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Re: The Screening Room

#61 Post by dw » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:18 am

Tim, Marcell,

What is the purpose of using the iron? None of the old books mention it, I was not taught to use it, and even though I am aware of some commercial outfits using a hot iron on the uppers to smooth away wrinkles, it has always been common wisdom that heat is the enemy of leather. I iron soles and heels but more to stuff wax into the leather than anything else.

I have, in the past, tried ironing uppers along the bottom, after lasting, but frankly I didn't see much if any evidence that anything at all was happening. Perhaps I didn't have the iron hot enough, perhaps the leather that I was using wasn't the right tannage...I don't know. But I would be grateful if one of you that uses the iron would school me in its application and benefits.

Thank you.

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Re: The Screening Room

#62 Post by jenny_fleishman » Tue Aug 14, 2007 5:21 am

re sidelinings...is using the same kidskin I am using for the upper likely to be acceptable? Do you cement the sidelinings to the lining and/or upper? How high up do the linings come? Do you cut the shape using your vamp pattern for the featherline curve? How big a lasting margin to you use, and do you skive the margin very thin so it doesn't add much thickness?

Sorry if I am asking a lot of questions that are answered in Marcell's videos. I am looking forward to watching them, but haven't had time yet, as I am busy working on my shoes!

On an encouraging note, I was playing with my bunion stretcher on the heel area of my most recent pair of shoes to soften/stretch the area over my problem heel area. It seems to work, and I am actually hopeful that I will suceed (knock on wood) at making shoes I can wear without sticking Dr. Scholl's Molefoam Padding on my heels every day. Looking forward to this as I pulled a piece of skin off my heel with the padding recently and it is still healing!

Jenny

marcell

Re: The Screening Room

#63 Post by marcell » Tue Aug 14, 2007 6:40 am

DW,

I guess you cannot find many things in books. It is just a small "trick" - the really hot iron damages the leather, but this iron shouldn't be that. If you find the proper temperature (Tim has written how you can), it helps a lot to take away the wrinkles and pipes. e.g. on hungarian style boots it is a must to use iron on the sides. Believe me - it can make miracles!

(Message edited by marcell on August 14, 2007)

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Re: The Screening Room

#64 Post by paul » Tue Aug 14, 2007 7:56 am

Marcell,

I just got a look at your videos and I join in the expressions of appreciation for you effort in placing them here with us. DW, my thanks to Emmett as well.

I was not trained watching someone make shoes or boots, Marcell, and believe me it's hard to do without seeing something being done. All these video's have made an intimidating procedure look very do-able. Though your proficiency is the result of much practice and experience, it gives us beginners something to shoot for.

Thank you once again,

PK

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Re: The Screening Room

#65 Post by marcell » Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:37 am

Dear Paul,

Thank you so much, I am glad if someone can learn a bit from my videos (actually Tim's videos maybe better for this reason, because he explains everything, what I don't do, because of my horribile English).

BTW I don't keep myself so professional - I have lost many years from shoemaking, when I graduate in University. But now I work hard on my shoes, and my videos as well. BTW I put the new one to youtube, and soon the third one will appear here too..

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Re: The Screening Room

#66 Post by paul » Tue Aug 14, 2007 12:56 pm

Marcell,

Yes, Tim's video's have been a great aid! I really appreciate how well they go with the instructions in his book.

I have an order for a pair of shoe in the next few months, and I plan to use what I've learned from him as well as what you've demonstrated.

Thank you again. Keep 'em coming.

Paul

marcell

Re: The Screening Room

#67 Post by marcell » Tue Aug 14, 2007 2:01 pm

Paul,

I am glad that you can use something from this Tim's book and our videos - thatswhy we made them.

The 3rd video is on youtube and very soon here too.

marcell

Re: The Screening Room

#68 Post by marcell » Wed Aug 15, 2007 4:18 am

I put the 3rd video on youtube about welt-sewing. Please rate and comment - thanks!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c13m_kEllGE

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Re: The Screening Room

#69 Post by admin » Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:31 am

Marcell, all,

I have the mov and will upload it here sometime today.

I have been having trouble converting the mov files to wmv. I think I have that problem solved, now however. You need a converter or encoder to do this, and .mov isn't a format that most PC folks work with. Quicktime Pro by Adobe would probably work, but it costs. I don't want to pay for software that I won't use all that often so I've been looking for open source or freeware.

To tell the truth I don't like the mov format. That's just one man's opinion but I have reasons--a person has to wait for it to download completely before the video can be watched; and when they are encoded as such tiny...visually...pictures, it is hard to see what is being done or to pick out detail.

So, in the interest of the Forum, I have been converting them to wmv format which will stream and making the display a little larger, bitrate higher, etc..

Bear with me if you please.

Yr. Hmb. Svt.

btippit

Re: The Screening Room

#70 Post by btippit » Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:48 am

Hi DW,

Not a big QuickTime fan myself but that's got more to do with my grudge against their iPod than anything else (long live THE OLD Napster!). A good way to avoid the thumbnail screen is to right click and download the .MOV movies. Then if you've downloaded the free QT player you can play them offline and enlarge them all the way up to full screen. Marcell's first movie is the only one I've done this with but the resolution was excellent and there was no pixilation when I enlarged it.

I don't know of any free converters but Applian Technologies has a couple of great tools. One is their Replay Converter that let's you convert all kinds of video into whatever format you want. You can download a free demo that seems to have no limit as to how long you can use it but in demo mode only the first 90 seconds of the converted file are saved. The price is only $29.95.

Another great tool is their Replay Media Catcher which allows you to capture and save streaming video (even YouTube videos). It also has a free but limited demo version and the price for the full version is $39.95. It saves the captured video in a .FLV format and you'll need the totally free FLV Player to view them but if you've got the converter you can just convert them to the format you like. Media Catcher is for YouTube and Flash videos. If you need to capture a Windows Media file from the Internet you'll need Replay A/V which is $49.95.

I know you weren't looking to spend anything on these tools but they're nice to have around, especially the Media Catcher and Replay Converter and a lot less frustrating than some of the "free" options so I just thought I'd toss them out there for all to see. I mean who wouldn't want to pay $39.95 to capture video of some idiot riding a skateboard down a hand rail and then straddling it before he splits his head open on the sidewalk while his buddies laugh until they wet themselves? God help us all.

Bill "The Last Man Standing" Tippit
www.globalfootwearsolutions.com

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Re: The Screening Room

#71 Post by dw » Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:04 am

Bill,

If you are interested, I got a free converter/encoder off the net last night that I like and which seems to work very well. It will handle all kinds of different video and audio formats and offers a number of different codecs for converting. For instance you might think that converting a .mov file to wmv would be pretty straight forward...and it is in this program...but there are probably five or six codecs that can be used to make that conversion.

Similarly this program offers a huge array of setting for each format...maybe 20 size formats (640x480, for instance), 5 aspect ratios, five frames per second options and about 50 bitrate option. Then we start talking about the audio setting for the sound that accompanies the video.

It may seem complicated but the progam is so straight-forward and offers reasonable default options for each file conversion type, that you can be up and running right from the get go. I went right from .mov to .wmv without any stops in between...like .mov to .avi to .wmv. I was happy about that.

I tried three other freeware programs and couldn't get them to pony up a valid file. Not even NeroVision (which I paid for fair and square as part of Nero 7 Ultra Edition) would handle Marcell's .mov correctly.

The program's name is "Super" and the homepage is here:

http://www.erightsoft.com/SUPER.html

Tight Stitches
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Re: The Screening Room

#72 Post by btippit » Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:28 pm

DW,

Thanks! I use as much free stuff as I can (Skype, yousendit.com, PhotoPlus-6, and more) but I've just never found a good free video converter program. I'll download "Super" and give it a whirl.

For those who are interested, I've found a hosting service for the OLGA last sizing application and I'll be moving my website and adding OLGA in the next several weeks. It took longer than I thought it would to find a hosting service that could handle the application without breaking the bank. I'll post an announcement when it's online and available to everyone.

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

marcell

Re: The Screening Room

#73 Post by marcell » Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:55 am

Thank you for the big effort, that all of you shown to solve the my videos's problem. My video-cut program has come with my Apple, and no other export possibilit exsits than mov.

Actually - as I see the visitor number in youtube, I guess I make to many and detailed parts from shoemaking, which is (maybe) boring.
Maybe I should just show in 5 munites a complete shoe-making procedure? I wait for your opinions too..

firefly

Re: The Screening Room

#74 Post by firefly » Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:42 am

Marcell,

This is just my opinion but for the casual passerby I think a short overview is great but I like the detail in your videos. I know that it is a huge effort on your part but I would even like to see more details.

Not having ever seen a shoe or boot maker actually work I find the videos enlightening and very educational. You can describe in words and even do a wonderful job of representing some of these skills in still photography but nothing can get the point across as well as actually watching a skilled craftsman at work.

You've done an incredible job and I hope you keep producing videos.

Thanks,

Mark

shoestring

Re: The Screening Room

#75 Post by shoestring » Thu Aug 16, 2007 3:13 pm

Marcell,

I agree with Mark,do it that way an keep'm coming.I have a couple questions,i the tool use to separate the cord is that a sole roughner,what type of bristles/needles are you using to inseam with and how far apart are your stitches?

Ed

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