The Crispin Colloquy

There's nothing like a tight topline.



Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[center]Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.[/center]

Baker says they would permit 'a first order' from me of GPB 200 plus shipping. (The exchange rate is approx. US $1.50 to one GBP I believe. I don't have that kind of money these days.

Lance, I am guessing you won't probably be doing another order soon, given what you have just received?

Athan:

I may be willing to organize a group buy, if someone else will handle the physical receipt and domestic shipping/distribution of the leather. It the order is strips, that process is pretty easy (shippable via UPS, FedEX Ground, or even USPS Priority Mail), but I don't need the leather at this time, so I don't need that hassle. However, given the apparent difficulties others have had in ordering, I would likely be willing to arrange the order, aggregate individual payment, and send a wire to Bakers for the order.

If others are interested, please speak up....

Lance

(Message edited by lancepryor on April 16, 2013)

Lisa,
please let us know yuor thoughts about Garat when you have tried it.

Is http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/ the baker leather that everyone is talking about? Just wanted to be sure.

Thanks,
Cody

farmerfalconer wrote:Is http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/ the baker leather that everyone is talking about? Just wanted to be sure.

Thanks,
Cody

Yes.

A heads up...Milton-Sokol (718-441-2226) has just got in a new shipment of Belgian (Masure) chestnut tanned outsole leather. This is premium stuff. I have been told that it is pit tanned although how long it stays in the pit I don't know. But it is every bit as good, in my opinion, as Rendenbach and a bit easier to work with--not so "flinty"--nor branded.

Ask for Jesse and tell him you got the info from the CC

If you like to build heels one lift at a time...either to accommodate large sizes, spur tables, or simply to avoid nails, Matt Foster at Maverick Leather (1-707-792-2208) is offering cut lifts, 4"x6" in quantity.

I used to buy boxes of 100 lifts such as these regularly from different sources. It was a good deal if only because I didn't have to cut up potentially valuable bends to make heels. Most, if not all those businesses that offered cut lifts are gone.

Good to see it back. But!! get these soon...the stock may be limited...or not--depends on interest.

I would like to introduce you to a Company in Wienna Austria, http://www.koldeleder.com/webseiten/eng ... meset.html
They have a large range of upper and lining leather and they also have Rendenbach leather. I have talked to Helmot Jahnson and he said that they ship world wide. I have bought their leather the last couple of years and I will gladly recomend them.
Janne

Was able to inspect some lining "kipse" from this company. It was very nice! Contacted the company via email. Received a response in less than 8 hours!

Dang it Jake! Did you know you've got a caterpillar crawling underneath your nose in your avatar photo? Course it's probably turned into a butterfly by now.

Sure have missed your presence here, hope you like the new software.

Where did you see the kips? Did you also happen to see any of their box calf? I'd be interested in seeing the finish and the colours.

While we are at it I'm gonna jump the gun a little bit here and say that I'm currently making two pairs of dress shoes for customers out of some Glass calf I got from Hardtke. Remains to be seen how it lasts up and so forth, but so far it is, bar none, the best calf I've ever seen in the US. Struck through, a very tight grain surface and just the right weight for a man's high dress shoe. Only comes in three colours but just lovely. I am doing folded edges on both shoes--one a subdued Adelaide and the other pair another of my alligator Balmorals--anyway it's just sweet. Not easy to skive but not terrible either.

I wish they had a burgundy.

Good to see you back...at least ever now and again.

BTW, Thanks Janne...I will be contacting them soon--tonight or tomorrow.

Dee-Dubb,

Well…..I told you I wouldn't stay gone. Actually, I've been "lurking" in the shadows!

Caterpillar? I'll have you know that's a bonafide "Quigley-Down-Under" caterpillar! Of course, that's been a few years back. I've got a "slick" upper lip now (lower lip too).

I was able to study two pairs of boots from our good friend Janne Melkersson. The lining was so impressive, I asked about it. You should have seen the hand stitched outsoles (10 spi)…..really nice!

Talked to Loy from Hardtke a few weeks ago at the Roundup in Texas. I was wanting to look at their Italian kangaroo, but they were out. My son wanted kangaroo tops for some new boots. By the way, make sure to post the "Glass" calf when they're done.

I've missed everyone too. I hope to make a more "regular" appearance in the future. I have a lot of good friends here.

Take care!

I am looking nice veg tan in 2-3 oz to use for a wallet lining. I need it in Fire Engine RED - any ideas where to go for such an item? I am in Spokane, WA but order online for everything anyway, although would prefer a US Supplier.

I am at a loss, since I usually use much heavier veg tan stuff direct from the tannery and this is out of my area of knowledge.

Thanks,

John

Maybe Waterhouse Leather(Peter Bentley). That said I wouldn't expect a red veg to be as red or as nicely finished as a chrome. I've seen nice veg like that but it isn't all that common.

If you just need small pieces you might consider dying your own.

I am trying to get something that looks like this...

Looks kind of like a patent leather.

Geez John, I don't know.

Heck, if I could find a veg tanned leather like that, esp. in earth tones, I'd be might tempted to try it for shoes.

Of course you don't want it to be bonded or corrected grain...

According to the description on the Ettinger web site, this one is made from "English Bridle Leather", so I am guessing I will have to order it from across the pond.

The only two UK based companies that still offer vegetable tanning off the top of my head are JFJ Baker and J&E Sedgwick. Perhaps one of the two?

Red bridle is offered here; http://www.je-sedgwick.co.uk/category/leather-colours/

I'm not certain that Baker currently offer a red; http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/image.php?i=i ... hoices.jpg

Just a small comment/caution...I looked over the Sedgwick site and from what I could see the thinnest product they offer is 2mm. Now that's 5 ounce in Traditional terms and twice as thick as you specified. I think it would even be too heavy for shoes...esp. high end men's dress shoes.

In any case, I have been told repeatedly by people in the Tanning industry that dry-splitting (after tanning) the substance of a hide by more than one-third, substantially weakens it.

They do offer a "seat" leather in 1.2 mm (3 ounce) but be aware that it is a re-tan, not full veg.

Thanks for the tip DW. I will be sure to check on what the minimum thickness I can get is. As for losing strength, in this instance it won't matter IMO, since it will only be used for wallets and such (linings).

I did see some Red Kangaroo online as well, which might work, but that Bridle sure looks magnificent.

Has anyone purchased leather direct from England lately, and if so, what is the Duty charge?

I found the Red Sedgwick, from Abbey Saddlery in England. It is pretty expensive from the start, and I am wondering how much more I am going to get hit with when it gets here.

Thanks,

John

john_ralston wrote:Has anyone purchased leather direct from England lately, and if so, what is the Duty charge?

I found the Red Sedgwick, from Abbey Saddlery in England. It is pretty expensive from the start, and I am wondering how much more I am going to get hit with when it gets here.

Thanks,

John

John,

It's hard to tell...might be based on value and/or weight. You'll definitely have vat added and you'll probably have a customs charge as well. And if the package has to go through customs (almost a certainty) you'll have brokerage fees, as well.

Not perhaps relevant to the enquiry , but an alternative source of leather in the UK that I have on recommendation.

http://www.claytonleather.com/

HNW wrote:Not perhaps relevant to the enquiry , but an alternative source of leather in the UK that I have on recommendation.

http://www.claytonleather.com/

Thank you...I actually have an inquiry into a distributor for them here in the US. Hoping that pans out.

Well, I was finally going to order some of the C.F. Stead Janus calf from Bokay today, I had called previously and was quoted a price per sq. foot and aprox cost of hide.

I was told today that I would have to order 1000 sq. ft min. And it would be imported from England.

Oh we'll, so much for that!

Any other sources?

The back side of the gh calf looks nice enough but it's not really black enough.

Courtney