Awl Haft

Got any great sources for leather? Tools? Machinery? Looking for sources?
Post Reply
Message
Author
admin
Site Admin
Posts: 406
Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 10:00 am
Full Name: Admin
Been Liked: 1 time

Awl Haft

#1 Post by admin » Sun May 05, 2002 11:12 am

I have moved fifty plus posts(everything prior to 25 February 2002) to the CD archive.

Admin

User avatar
jake
7
7
Posts: 544
Joined: Wed Dec 30, 1998 7:01 pm
Full Name: Jake
Location: Mountain View, Arkansas, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#2 Post by jake » Sat Jan 17, 2004 9:53 am

Lookie here what Dick Anderson has come up with....it's a different design for an awl haft. It's made to a customer's specific request. I'm confident he can make one to suit your needs.
2682.jpg

j1a2g3

Re: Awl Haft

#3 Post by j1a2g3 » Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:52 pm

I justed recieved this beauty!!! I just love the curve of this awl. Thank you Dick Anderson!!!!
4644.jpg


(Message edited by j1a2g3 on January 03, 2007)

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: Awl Haft

#4 Post by dw » Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:19 am

Joel,

I love that old style haft...it may interest you to know that these are patterned after a haft that was discovered in a dig in Virginia (Jamestown I think it was and I think the original was circa 1600's)

When they fit your hand I think they are the most comfortable style to use. The base (the "mushroom" ) should fit in the palm of your hand and the thumb and first two fingers should comfortably nestle around the ferrule.

Push with the palm and never "lever" the awl...you'll break the blade.


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

User avatar
jkrichard
3
3
Posts: 102
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:08 am
Full Name: Jeffrey K Richard
Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
Contact:

Re: Awl Haft

#5 Post by jkrichard » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:05 pm

I was on the phone earlier tonight with Mr. Dick Anderson--- I have my square awl and haft, and curve awl and haft ordered. I am ridiculously excited!

User avatar
romango
8
8
Posts: 854
Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 1:40 pm
Full Name: Rick Roman
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Contact:

Re: Awl Haft

#6 Post by romango » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:01 am

Jeffrey,

Did your square awl come from Dick? Can you post a picture of it?

User avatar
jkrichard
3
3
Posts: 102
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:08 am
Full Name: Jeffrey K Richard
Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
Contact:

Re: Awl Haft

#7 Post by jkrichard » Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:36 pm

Not yet Rick. He said he had to make the awls and hafts ( I requested cocobo (sp?) after seeing one here in the archives (I believe it was DW's?). They should be in my hands in about a week or so.

I will gladly post pictures once I get them.

johnl
3
3
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:10 am
Full Name: John Lewis
Location: Memphis, TN, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#8 Post by johnl » Wed Dec 30, 2009 5:17 pm

Well, I have not made any shoes or boots, but I have been knocking out a few awl hafts. Here are some that I made over the last week. There is no finish applied on them yet. That will be up to the end user. The first 7 left to right on the top are beech. The next 2 on the top are zebra wood. The two on the bottom are osage orange.
John Lewis
10734.jpg

User avatar
producthaus
3
3
Posts: 96
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 12:52 pm
Full Name: Nick Hausman
Location: San Francisco, CA, USA
Contact:

Re: Awl Haft

#9 Post by producthaus » Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:48 am

Could anyone provide additional guidance for making a haft and ferrule? I have access to lathes and wanted to give this a go. What does the ID (inside diameter) of the brass ferrule need to be? I read posts about friction fitting – the pilot hole is a bit smaller than the diameter of the awl, and you hammer the haft onto the awl which is secured in a vice.

Is it up to the maker as to how the ferrule should secure into the haft?

This is a longer term project, Dick Anderson and Hale & Co will support my mid and near term haft needs.
11558.jpg
11558.jpg (19.06 KiB) Viewed 5921 times

johnl
3
3
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:10 am
Full Name: John Lewis
Location: Memphis, TN, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#10 Post by johnl » Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:52 pm

I have probably made as many bad hafts as anyone.
Things I do, and things I have learned so far.
Overall length of the haft from top to end of the ferrule 3 1//4 to 3/12" in length. Mushroom, or head of haft from 3/4" to 1 1/8" Dia. About 1" is good. Body of haft no larger in dia. than "top or mushroom". Any larger, and you run the risk of not being able to lay the haft down far enough when using it.
Entire top and edges should be well rounded with no sharp edges that will dig into your hand while using it.
Wood, Beech best from user standpoint. Other close grain hardwoods can be used, but you can run into problems putting the awl in and replacing it if the wood is too hard.
Ferrules, Mine are brass, 1/2" OD with a 5/16" ID
Taper on the ferrule is about 4 degrees. Length 1" or slightly less. Brass is hard to drill unless you have modified the tip or your drill bit, use a special straight flute bit, or an end cutting endmill as a drill bit. A wooden "nub" is on the end of the haft and fits the entire length of the ferrule.
I counter bore just a little on the haft end of the ferrule in case a little wood gets shoved up there when fitting the ferrule on the haft. Friction fit is good if you are precise in your sizing the wood nub. Else "liquid Steel" is your friend. Have had luck getting the wood nub slightly oversize, heating the ferrule and then driving it on to shrink fit when it cools.

John

User avatar
courtney
6
6
Posts: 333
Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 12:46 am
Full Name: courtney schamach
Location: petaluma, california, u.s.a.

Re: Awl Haft

#11 Post by courtney » Fri Dec 03, 2010 9:36 pm

I just tried to post this, guess it didnt take.

I found a cool website called
www.cordwainertools.com
they sell skiving knives, feathering knives, inseaming awls, etc.
I think its the guy that made tools for Koronya.

Courtney

User avatar
farmerfalconer
4
4
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:19 am
Full Name: Cody Howdy
Location: NC, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#12 Post by farmerfalconer » Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:26 pm

So do you put the ferrule into the haft and then the blade into the ferrule? So from the drawing it looks like the ferrule is ground into a taper instead of the ferrule being a truncated cone of brass that is put on the out side of the all to prevent it from splitting. Is that right? were ddo you all get the steel for your blades? Also do you turn the wood green or seasoned?
Thanks,
Cody

johnl
3
3
Posts: 107
Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:10 am
Full Name: John Lewis
Location: Memphis, TN, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#13 Post by johnl » Tue Jan 08, 2013 7:30 pm

Cody, I make my own awl handles as well as the ferrule. On mine, the awl handle has a 5/16" X 1" long wood stub coming out from the handle. The ferrule is turned from a piece of 1/2" brass round bar. It is bored all the way through with a 5/16" hole. The outside is tapered mainly to look good. The purpose of the ferrule is to help prevent splitting, (at least on mine). Once the ferrule is mounted on the handle, I bore a tiny hole in the center of the wood stub. The awl blade is put in a vise with the back end facing up. The end of the awl is placed into the tiny hole I drilled in the handle and then I use a plastic or rubber mallet to drive the handle onto the blade. Wood can be turned either green or seasoned, but I would turn only seasoned, as cracks can happen as the wood dries. I have not heard of anyone making their own blades, but get them from Edwin Hale, or Thornapple River boots or a few other places. If I was going to try to make them, I believe that I would try music wire in the correct size. You would have to aneal it, work it, and then reharden and temper which can prove to be tricky.
John L

chuck_deats

Re: Awl Haft

#14 Post by chuck_deats » Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:52 am

John,
Sounds like a good plan. Just one auggestion. Music wire is generally severely cold worked mild steel. Once it is annealed, cannot be rehardened. Would recommend O-1 drill rod which is readily available, annealed when you buy it, and can be hardened and tempered.
Chuck

User avatar
farmerfalconer
4
4
Posts: 167
Joined: Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:19 am
Full Name: Cody Howdy
Location: NC, USA

Re: Awl Haft

#15 Post by farmerfalconer » Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:52 pm

John, Chuck,
Thanks!
Thats interesting that music wire is just work hardened.

Post Reply