The Crispin Colloquy

The Chinese lasting pincers in your original post on this subject would be far, far, better than all the make-shift alternatives you have mentioned. If it were me, I'd buy a narrow jawed version and a wide jawed version. (I actually have 14 pairs of pincers in three different styles, distributed between two work stations...don't get me started on hammers ).

The Swedish/German/Berg style pincers are good but not cheap ordinarily. Even those coming out of Eastern Europe are going to be more than you're looking at in the original post.

My feeling is...and I apologize if this seems confrontational (I'm just trying to give the best advice I can from over 45 years experience)...is that if you're not ready to commit to the physical, mental and monetary investment necessary to acquire proper shoemaking tools, you should probably be looking at another trade.

Just my personal opinion...take it for what it's worth.

Meh, I know that is the proper advice. It's just that I'm poor, and I've been lucky enough to be able to gather most of the other things I'll need for shoemaking for very cheap. Maybe I'll just have to shell out for proper $100 pliers (which likely means ~$40 Chinese pliers with a European brand name tacked on + $60 other costs), though I think just about half the posts on any diy forum is that very reply, "pay up". And yet when somebody tries doing it for cheap, it is often a celebrated success.

You probably outbid me on all those 14 eBay pliers - that's why they are so expensive

I know there was another member who welded himself a combination hammer+pliers from regular pliers. They seemed to work fine.

I still don't understand the purpose of curved jaws. Is it just a way to get a ~45 degree angle but keeping the structure strong?

dub » Wed May 06, 2015 9:38 am wrote:
I still don't understand the purpose of curved jaws. Is it just a way to get a ~45 degree angle but keeping the structure strong?

The curved jaws pull the leather without risking the leather ripping on the leading edge of the jaws. It's a "line of force" thing...even if you carefully sand and polish the edge of the jaws on a regular pair of pliers, the chances that the leather being pulled will rip are far greater than with a curved jawed pincer.

When the pincer pulls straight upward, as it does with curved jaws, there is less resistance of the leather on the side of the last, less friction and the leather slides/moves easier.

Also the hammer on the pincers is...can be...used to lever the leather...generating more movement/pull/tension than a straight pull can create.

Last nails, anyone have a good place to try? I am looking for round headless 1 in (2,5cm) with 1/20th in (1,2 to 1,4mm) in diameter.

And I would appreciate some advice on metal. Brassed steel seem to be what I look at in Laszlo Vass & Magda Molnar's book "Handmade Shoes for Men" though videos Marcel Mrsan posts appear to be steel. I found a supplier in France who has blued nails, steel, brass, copper, and brassed steel.

Specifically I am looking for a stateside supplier with nails that match what I am looking to find. I have tried lasting with wrought triangular and four sided nails of proper length, but they don't "feel right". As I was playing with some finishing brads on a beater last I have it "felt right" but I noticed that they had a tendency to impart color to the leather I was using.

Phew, that was harder to post than you might think as a newbie.

Regards,

John
Covington WA

I'm not sure what you want or what you're going to use them for but I have a source for lasting brads--1.25", 18guage, round shank steel brads with a small head. They look like fine finish nails. I use them for lasting shoes esp. around the heel and toe. I drive them in, particularly in the center of pipes and bend them towards center of the insole.

Email me.

I am trying to find a place to order some "Champion #3 needles. My search engines and old sources have dried up. If any one could assist me, "Much Gratitude"

Best wishes.....LP

hello,
does anyone have a copy of Tm Skryme's Bespoke Shoemaking they would consider selling? I am in the Bellingham WA.
thanks, Petra

Hi Petra we carry all of Tim's books in stock you can Private message me at larry@walrusshoe.com or go to our website www.walrusshoe.com

Anyone looking for really high quality shoe laces in variety of colours...look no further:

Strupai Laces

hi,

Im looking for some 'ready to use' leather heel counters, something on the thinner side, does anyone know which company I could source from? (id prefer it to be somewhere in North or South America) thanks!

I also have one more query, does anyone know where to get heavy grade polyester ribbon to be used for a boot-strap?

Hello,

Im looking for an old secret recipe for making leather shoe conditioner.. Does anyone have an idea where I could get this from..? I remember stumbling across it in the past and am trying to find it again..

looking for a decent used post bed sewing machine - aiming for $1000

Should be able to pick up a Singer 136 (?) class for that or maybe even a little less...with table.

I'm looking for a good rubber toplift to make quarter rubber pieces with. I've seen premade quarter pieces but are not to interested in those options, I'd rather make mine from scratch. But, the issue I have is finishing the rubber quarter piece to total smoothness without a machine.

I've been using a pair of SoleTech smooth rubber soles for the quarter but it seems that the compound of rubber is a little too "gummy" to work with by hand.

So my question is, is there a type of toplift that is more suitable for handwork?

Vibram makes a good toplift material that is a bit softer than the women's toplift material. I haven't bought any in a while, so I can't tell you what exactly I ordered, but it is tough. IIRC, it seems it was 12 iron.

Re-reading your question, Vibram's women's toplift might be more suitable for finishing by hand but it is harder and wears faster and may be...esp. in the amount you need...noisier.

Thanks dw.

You have a good point with the harder rubber being noisier and wearing faster. So I am stuck with finishing the quarter rubber with a machine. I just am not into finishing the rubber with a sanding belt and a numpkeg, I think it lacks variability and ultimate precision. I am going to look into using more precise forms of grinding like a dremmel maybe.

What is a naumkeg but a fat dremel mounted on a high bench? Commercial naumkeg pads/papers are made in grits up to 120 and I have made my own at 240 and 320. I don't think you can get dremel accessories that fine. But it is kind of a wasted effort--it is the nature of rubber to resist abrasion (that's what you want) and, realistically, it's not going to finish up any better at 300 grit than at 120.

I'm not sure what your aim is in regard to "precision"--the smaller the tool in this situation, the less precision you'll have...simply because on a heel stack you want everything to be as flat and straight as humanly possible and a wide abrasive surface will be better than a small one.

FWIW, I make my own rubber/leather toplifts for my men's dress shoes and have for some years.I have a dremel. Even thinking about it now, I would never seriously consider using the dremel anywhere in the process.

YMMV

What I mean by precision is the ability to sand the rubber while not touching the leather surrounding it. Based on the understanding that leather and rubber sand at different rates, the moment one sands rubber and leather at the same time, technically an area of uneven-ness is created.
I am pretty good at achieving precision with the thin edge of a numpkeg, but I cannot help but think there is a more efficient way to even out the rubber. And, if I can do that with a shoe in my lap rather than holding it up against a numpkeg I would be happier for it. Not that I struggle with the numpkeg in anyway its just not my cup of tea when it comes to shoemaking. But, when it comes to shoe repair of coarse it is a magical tool.

I'm looking for a source for a pattern for a lace up logger style boot. The only pair I've got aren't ready to be torn down yet.

Anyone know where I could buy a pattern?

jlboykin wrote: ↑Sat May 05, 2018 2:46 pm What I mean by precision is the ability to sand the rubber while not touching the leather surrounding it. Based on the understanding that leather and rubber sand at different rates, the moment one sands rubber and leather at the same time, technically an area of uneven-ness is created.
I am pretty good at achieving precision with the thin edge of a numpkeg, but I cannot help but think there is a more efficient way to even out the rubber. And, if I can do that with a shoe in my lap rather than holding it up against a numpkeg I would be happier for it. Not that I struggle with the numpkeg in anyway its just not my cup of tea when it comes to shoemaking. But, when it comes to shoe repair of coarse it is a magical tool.

Get a half dozen popsicle sticks (or tongue depressors) and cement strips of varying grades of sandpaper to them. Cut the sandpaper such that it doesn't quite come all the way to the edge. Then you can use the fingers of one hand as a guide...running the edge of the stick against the fingernails...and sand down just the rubber toplift.

It's slow but it's precise--to a degree that no dremel or naumkeg will ever be. And you can do it in your lap!

Building a lace up logger using a generic pattern is sort of hit and miss, the biggest problem you run into is getting the gap between the laces correct. Tearing down your old ones would work, but I highly suggest getting the packer book that DW wrote. He explains the pattern making process, and when you finish your boot they will fit.

dinerio wrote: ↑Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:58 pm Building a lace up logger using a generic pattern is sort of hit and miss, the biggest problem you run into is getting the gap between the laces correct. Tearing down your old ones would work, but I highly suggest getting the packer book that DW wrote. He explains the pattern making process, and when you finish your boot they will fit.

Thanks, I'll look for it.

For those searching for, and/or frustrating yourselves fiddling with substitutes, here's the current US source for sheep tallow: https://grasslandbeef.com/lamb-tallow

Wanting to buy a logging boot last. I know what I want, but I'm not sure how to go about purchasing it. Can I just call up J&V and tell them I want a last just like X or do I have to have a design of my own? Or do I need to call a supply house? What I am hoping to get is a reasonable facsimile to a White's #55.

Thanks