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Got any great sources for leather? Tools? Machinery? Looking for sources?
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Tex Robin

Re: Looking for...

#76 Post by Tex Robin »

DW,

I don't use very much press cement. Maybe a quart in a year so unless someone will package the cement in smaller containers and distribute it to jobbers then I probably won't be buying any more. Five gallons would be a 20 year supply for me. I usually buy mine from a jobber in San Angelo and he delivers it to save the hazmat charge. I believe that is now $ 12.00 per container....TR
fneiii

Re: Looking for...

#77 Post by fneiii »

D. W.,
Do you have a phone number or email for Goetz?
All,
Does anyone know who might have 6/11 pegs? I've been looking and no luck so far.
Thanks
Frank
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Re: Looking for...

#78 Post by dw »

Frank,

Goetz has 6/11 pegs. In fact most, if not all, the lemonwood pegs...Blau Ring...coming into this country come in from Goetz. I don't have a phone number for them handy. I'll try to remember and post it at noon. But McPherson's in Seattle (used to be Arensberg) has said that they will carry the Goetz line.

Tight Stitches
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Re: Looking for...

#79 Post by jake »

D.W.,

Thanks for the information. I would assume they would be cheaper than the German stuff, since it's made over here. I would go into another reason to buy it from Upaco, but I won't go down that road since it's not "politically" correct.

Thanks once again!
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Re: Looking for...

#80 Post by jake »

Gary,

You bet! Count me in! I think you started a "Tradition". Let me know what I can do to help, besides the wind-blowing (grinning).
fneiii

Re: Looking for...

#81 Post by fneiii »

D. W., Gary,
Thanks for the help, I called McPhersons and got their last two boxes of 6/11's with a back order for more.
I have worked for and with some people from the Middle East some years back and there are many aspects to these people most don't understand and never will. This is because we don't think as they do. If our elected officials really worked for our country we would have no reason for dealing with the governments there. The people think we are barberic and evil even though they like to come to the U. S. and make money and enjoy everything they are deprived of in their own country. Whenever they are confronted about their double standards they fall back to their religious beliefs and hide behind them. They use their religion when it suits them and we are the problem. I will stop here and say this is a generalization and that there are good people everywhere.
Frank
George Ball

Re: Looking for...

#82 Post by George Ball »

Hey folks, I'm graduating from using an awl to a sewing machine and an expert tells me what I should be looking for is a Singer model 29-4 and that they're all over the place and I might find one at a yard sale or a flea market. Does anyone know where I can pick one up, cheap?
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Re: Looking for...

#83 Post by shane »

George,
I don't know what you consider cheap, but there is 3 or 4 of them on ebay almost every day. 200 to 400 dollars. Personaly I don't care for a 29-4, It is a patcher and works well for that, but it can tear the crap out of something in a hurry. But I also don't know what you are planning to sew with it. Just my opinion. Good luck.
Shane
D.A. Saguto--HCC

Re: Looking for...

#84 Post by D.A. Saguto--HCC »

George,

Be cautious buying old patching machines. You want to avoid the Singer model 29-4--they are the oldest [pre-1920s?], loosest, least versatile, and hardest to restore, especially if the rack-box has worn-out. You want one with a separate rack-box at the business end of the arm. These are usually easy to spot because they are chrome plated. The 29-4s are cast iron all the way, so once the rack wears grooves into the iron, there's no good way to fill it.

A good and well-tuned patcher is capable of doing pretty nice uppers closing, if adjusted correctly and set up right. You want to look for a Singer 29K class patcher, like the 51 and 71 [the long arm with large shuttle is my favorite]. If you can find them, Singer made a size "#10" needle, twist point for the 29K class, which is smaller than the smallest needles available for the Adler and Claes brand patchers. A size "#10" needle and some #69 bonded nylon, and you can get through most uppers, and go where no post-bed or cylinder-arm will go.

Change the needle, swivel the needle plate, readjust all the tensions, etc., and you can even feed heavy 5/18 [5 cord, size 18] linen thread, if you fill your oil-cup on top with pure neatsfoot oil, and be sure the little felt patch is on there to wipe the excess oil off the thread.

I have three of these: one long-arm set up just for back-straps on riding boots [sewing up the arm nicely]; one short-arm set up for heavy work with linen thread, and a third long-arm for all around repair and patching work. Hint: buy or make a clamp-on flat work table for it, and you'll have a dandy flat-bed too.

Having said all this, I've never gotten a patcher to do as fine stitching as a good post-bed or cylinder-arm--that jumping presser foot just is too "primitive". But, if I had to be shipwrecked on a deserted island with only one machine, it'd be a long-arm Singer 29K.
Frank Jones of Lancashire,

Re: Looking for...

#85 Post by Frank Jones of Lancashire, »

George Ball

The comments you have from Shane and Al are right on the ball (please excuse the pun).

I would like to add a little more background and a couple of personal views. The Singer 29K was designed as an upper stitching machine for repairers. When doing any upper work on a made-up shoe the problem is always getting access to the part you need to stitch. The 29K has a long thin arm designed to get inside made-up shoes. Also, the feed mechanism is a walking foot rather than a feed wheel or feed dog underneath the work. This enabled the arm to be thin but also the walking foot on a 29K can turn to sew in any direction without turning the workpiece. No other sewing machine I have ever seen can do this, except those that have copied the 29K design.

The downside is that it is not really a good machine for sewing upper parts together BEFORE the shoe/boot is made up, in other words it is not a shoe/bootmaking machine. A question I am often asked is, “I want to buy an upper closing machine but I can only afford (or have space for) one, which type would you suggest?” My answer is always a post machine. Simply because it is the most versatile REAL closing machine.

Unless you are good with machinery, I strongly suggest that when buying second-hand you get some advice from somebody who can tell a good machine from junk. Also, if at all possible, ALWAYS try out the actual machine you are going to buy - yourself. Take along and sew the type of work and material you plan to use the machine for.

One final point, it is not always the best policy to buy the cheapest. Many old machines are excellent value and perfect for the small workshop. However, there are also numerous old machines out there which are not worth anything. Remember when you buy a sewing machine you are not buying the machine, you are buying the good quality sewing it will produce day-after-day. If there is doubt that it will do this, then even a machine costing $10 is an expensive waste of money.

As I said at the start these are personal views. Apologies if some of these comments are painfully obvious, but I have seen so many people get stuck with rubbish.

Good hunting.

Frank Jones
frank.jones@shoemaking.com
George Ball

Re: Looking for...

#86 Post by George Ball »

D.A., And everyone that replied, thank you. As always you people are so forthcoming! I'm sewing thick latigo with braided dacron ice fishing line it's I think like 200 deniers thick. Anyway it just fits into the largest awl needle I can find. I think I really need a long arm. I just did a strap on the back of a pair of boots, and had to do the inside part by feel. I'm doing a turn out seam at the bottom right now but if I ever do a turn in like I just saw on TV, I'm going to have to get the arm inside the upside down shoe to sew the bottom on. In addition, If I ever do a leather jacket I know I'm going to need a long arm. I assume that a post machine has a verdical arm at the bottom and I can see that it would be helpfull doing fine stiching on tops, but I gotta get in there. So anyway, even having never seen these buggers I'm inclined to agree with you about the desert island machine. There's a 29k70 on E Bay now that I'm inclined to bid on. The guy seems knowledgeable and straight and says it's been used in a shoe shop only, and not in production. However I'm wondering about new Chinese 29k's do they exist? How about this Shanghi industrial mod.ga3? The arm seems too short but it's new. It also looks like the sewing direction can be changed like the 29k. Anybody speak Chinese? Thanks Guys, G.B.
Lisa Sorrell

Re: Looking for...

#87 Post by Lisa Sorrell »

OK, I'm looking for something a little unusual but I'm sure plenty of you can help me. I had a guy come in today who wants the old leather soles taken off of cowboy boots that have been repaired. He doesn't care if it's just the sole or if the heel is still attached to the sole. He's says he'd be happy if he could get several boxes of old soles and he's willing to pay shipping. If any of you can help me out on this let me know. I'll make sure you're either reimbursed or prepaid for shipping.

Lisa
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Re: Looking for...

#88 Post by paul »

Lisa,

I would be willing to make an effort to save old boot soles for your 'guy' (is he a customer?). I'd need to put some kind of reminder in place. I have a hard enough time remembering things for myself, but if it were part of a combind effort with fellow bootmakers it might be fun. I understand he would be willing to pay shipping, but I think you should have the feeling that it could benifit you too. Favors for customers are good, but I think they should spend a little with me to get my 100% effort on their behalf. You will be spending time cordinating the collection if it happens, so get him to but a belt or something.
Just my thought. Let us know if it is to be.
PK
Tex Robin

Re: Looking for...

#89 Post by Tex Robin »

Lisa,

I am wondering what he wants the old soles for. There was a bootmaker here in Coleman in the 50s that used them to stack his boot heels and he was considered by many to be a very good bootmaker....TR
Lisa Sorrell

Re: Looking for...

#90 Post by Lisa Sorrell »

Tex,
No, it's nothing like that. He wants to make a large collage of them and use it for a wall-hanging--art, if you will. He specifically mentioned that he wanted old soles with holes worn in them. "One man's trash is another man's treasure!"

Lisa
Tex Robin

Re: Looking for...

#91 Post by Tex Robin »

Lisa,

I guess so....To each his own...TR
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Re: Looking for...

#92 Post by rileycraig »

Lisa,

I do a LOT of repairs, so you can count on me for some old soles. Do you want the half-soles as well?

Good Bookmaking,

Riley
Lisa Sorrell

Re: Looking for...

#93 Post by Lisa Sorrell »

Riley,
I think he's mostly interested in full soles. I was thinking that maybe a few of you could set out a box and throw soles in it 'til it was full then send it to me. He probably wouldn't mind if there were a few half soles in it as well.

Lisa
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Re: Looking for...

#94 Post by rileycraig »

Lisa,

I keep a box under my work table to toss used soles, thread, scraps of everything you can think of, (you all know the type of scraps we can come up with), so I'll start saving those soles for ya.

Good Bootmaking,

Riley
Lisa Sorrell

Re: Looking for...

#95 Post by Lisa Sorrell »

I contacted the guy who wants the old soles. He says yes, he DEFINITELY wants all the old, worn-out soles he can get. He'll be happy to pay for shipping and as a matter of fact, if they're not too far away he'll come and get them! I think the best thing for all of you who want to help with this project to do is save soles for a while and then let me know when you're ready to ship them. I'll either send you a check for freight or reimburse you after I receive the box. Thanks to all of you who want to contribute to the art and beauty in this world. Image

Lisa
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Re: Looking for...

#96 Post by rileycraig »

All,

Does anyone know where to get press cement? I know Barge quit making it. Is there a cross-over from another vocation that will work, that anyone might know about? The only place I ever used it was on last build ups, but it sure came in handy there. Thanks in advance for any info!

Good Bootmaking,

Riley
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Re: Looking for...

#97 Post by dw »

Riley,

Upaco Adhesives
talk to Barbara Strickland
main voice (603) 888-5443

Ask for nitrocellulose cement, you might be able to "sweet talk" her out of a trial quart. Otherwise you have to buy five gallons


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Re: Looking for...

#98 Post by rileycraig »

DW,

Thanks, I will phone Ms. Strickland today.

Good Bootmaking,

Riley
fneiii

Re: Looking for...

#99 Post by fneiii »

Riley,
The last time I was at Montana Leather they still had some Barge Press Cement. 1-800-527-0227.
Frank
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Re: Looking for...

#100 Post by mnewberry »

Riley,

I posted once before one this, but I've been using a water based floor covering, Diamond Floor Finish from the Varathane Co. It works great, is widely available and cheap, has virtually no odor and water cleanup. The only trick is that it works best if you spritz the completed leather buildup and lightly sand it (which makes it really smooth) and then put the finish onto the wet leather. You can recoat soon after and it dries really hard. I've used it for toe boxes as well.
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