Books, Manuals, Publications

[erika]

6751.jpg

[erickgeer]

Erika,

It looks like a variation on San Crispino (sp?) construction. Frank Jones wrote about this a while back and can probably speak more accurately about this.

Erick

[headelf]

Erika,
Nice looking technqique that "canasta". I'm guessing that since this is used on a women's shoe,
the outsole and heel are finished size before sticking to the upper, otherwise you would destroy that beautiful turned edge if you ground this to size afterward. Right? Or, tell us how you did it.

Regards,
Georgene

[erika]

Georgene, It's the only one I made with this construction at the time I did the shoeschool for years ago, so I have to dig in my head how I made it.
The outsole was not ready before sticking. When the canasta construction was done, I glued the outsole and made it as far I could with the knife. Then I egalised for a tight edge and finally I "schrooide" (NL) the edge. How does it call?

6753.jpg

6754.jpg

Concerning the stiching I do not know for sure anymore if the lowest foulded leather around the edge is not stiched and falls then over the sticking or is rightly stiched. (However I have drawn that yesterday.)
I made the stiches first, made the outsole and after that I build the heel layer for layer immediately on the shoe I believe. That's possible without severe damage because I did the most by hand with a kind of round rasp. Before working with the rasp I also worked on the heel with .....

6755.jpg

(how do you call it?) assymetric scouring role/ heel front......?
But off course I had to be carefull with using the scouring role.

Erika

[kenkähahmo]

http://www.arsarpel.it/archivio.asp

Hi Erika - I though this might interest you: a dictionary by (?) the Ars Arpel school in Italy. No mention of the price, though!

[erika]

Hi Hanna,

I looked there, but I didn't see where the dictionary can be choosen.

[erika]

Hi Hanna,

I looked there, but I didn't see where the dictionary can be choosen.

6762.jpg

Erika

[kenkähahmo]

Erika,

It's a book you can buy through that website. Sorry if you're not interested in buying stuff for your project - I just bumbed into it and thought of you, especially as it features terminology in many languages

[btippit]

Hi Erika,

I had the same problem. The reason is that no matter what page you copy the link from it only takes you to this home page. You need to click on the Training School "curve" at the top of the screen. This does not work with Firefox, my browser of choice. I had to use the dreaded Internet Explorer but when you do that, a tab for the dictionary shows up on the right. Hopefully this poor resolution screen capture will show what I'm talking about.

\image(ars dictionary link)

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

[btippit]

oops!

6764.jpg

Bill “The Last Man Standingâ€

[relferink]

Erika,

From memory you sew through your upper twice, once in top of the mid sole, once below. I'm not 100% sure, it's been at least 15 years since I made the canasta construction so forgive me if I'm wrong.

The cutting wheels in your picture, I know them as edge trimmers, they have a guard the keeps you from ripping into the shoe or the leather around the mid sole. There are also heel trimmers, they are wider and don't have the same type of guard. On the detail (sorry I don't have a picture that would show it clearly) the edge trimmers leave a "beaded" edge, just like a hand iron would, the heel trimmer doesn't.

Your last picture is of a heel-brester.(sp?)
Is the heel on your shoe a stacked leather heel? If so how do you keep the bottom edge keep it's shape? I would think that it would flair up unless you use a wooden heel.

Rob

[kenkähahmo]

Erika

Sorry for the confusion, I though you though it was an online dictionary. But Robert seemed to sort the promlem out

Hanna

[erika]

Hi,

Do you mean this one? \image(ars arpel archive) I found it clicking on: training school (and also information magazine) and then dictionary shows up at the right above.

Rob, I comprehend your explanation. The hand-iron for making a beaded edge we call "kantcoulis" in dutch.
The heel of the canasta shoe is stacked indeed. (that's what I meant when I wrote before: layer for layer.)
I think the bottom edge keep it's shape because the most outside layer is of rubber 5 mm. and probable because I don't wear them often as well. Further the rest of the heel is leather as well.

Erika

[erika]

6770.jpg

[tjburr]

I came across a source for a number of digitized older books on shoemaking that I thought I would pass on.

www.books.google.com

I chose to do an advanced search (link next to text box) and asked for items with a full view and started entering words like shoe in the title box. Here are some I found with downloadable additons

The art and mystery of the gentle craft, an essay on boot and shoe making.
The art of boot and shoemaking - Leno
The shoe industry - Allen
the manufacture of lubricants, show polish
how to make a shoe - headley
the military shoe - salquin

and a few others

Good Evening
Terry Burress

[romango]

Terry,

Thanks for doing this research. I've downloaded them to add to my local virtual book library (just in case Google gets their pants sued off and takes away the book site).

[tjburr]

Just to let you know some other titles related to shoes and shoe makers

The Soldier's foot and the military shoe

Mark Westcroft, cordwainer

The autobiography of John Brown the cordwainer; with his sayings and oings in town and country: shewing what part he took in the spread of church principles among the working classes - a long name that sounded interesting

Recollections of sixy years in the shoe

[das]

Terry,

Thanks for posting those!

Salquin is excellent, and closely related to Myer's and Munson's work on the foot shape, inflare/outflare, etc.

Allen's 'The Shoe Industry' looks like a bible--load plenty of printer paper for that one, and fresh toner.

[tjburr]

My wife came across an interesting piece of information. It looks like kessinger publishing is re-printing the golding books. She came across it on abebooks.com and Powells books in Portland, Oregon, usa has them listed. My understanding is kessinger is printing them on demand. The price listed on ABE is 28.95 though I do not know if that is per book or for the entire set.

I am missing a couple volumes, so I might just have to check it out.

I know that DW is uploading some, and I REALLY appreciate that. But sometimes there is nothing like sitting in a chair, kicking back the feet, grabbing a wee dram or much larger of scotch and reading a book. I unfortunately do go through lots of paper and ink

Terry

[relferink]

Terry,

Good find, I wonder if that is the same version that's available through google books It's a well used book they scanned, nothing like the work DW has put into preserving these great works but still and interesting read.

I do not know if this one is part of the 8 volume series and if so, what volume it is. Maybe someone that owns the original series can commend on that.

Rob

[dw]

Terry, Rob,

What is the link?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[relferink]

DW,

The link to google: http://books.google.com/books?id=DzBDAAAAIAAJ&dq=%22fy+golding%22&printsec=front cover&source=web&ots=z3ChTM302F&sig=PjuYKTuUmYfGAfAx6jyG6xPjeVk&hl=en
does the link in my post above not work?

The link to abebooks: http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?an=F.Y.+golding&sts=t&x=0&y=0

Rob

[dw]

Rob,

Thanks.

The Google offering as well as the Abebooks offering appear to be one and the same but in different formats, of course.

Neither are the same as, or part of, the eight volume set that I have been working on.

I think that the Google digitalizations are good and I have nothing critical to say about them as far as they go. But as Rob suggested they are simply scans. What I am doing, for those who are interested...and free of charge albeit slowly, slowly...is "recognizing" the text so that the books may have an active TOC and index as well as be completely searchable.

In sections (half of the volume I am currently working on) where patterns or pattern generating illustrations are involved, I am also "re-drawing" (actually "tracing" might be the better word) each and every illustration. I am committed to absolute fidelity to the original but I do this for clarity--a critical element when interpreting patterns, I believe, especially since the original lithography (or the printing from the lithographs) is often obscured in the original books much less the scanned copies.

I get no royalties from my efforts so even if it sounds like I am promoting my versions over other versions, it actually makes no difference to me except as a point of pride. Just seeing that some of this stuff is getting wider distribution and is being made available in formats that may well preserve them for centuries to come is, a good thing.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[tjburr]

I really like the idea of a searchable book. I had not actually had a chance to look at the ones my wife located, but searchable makes an on-line book much more useable.

I really wish I could search all my books and find the reference I mentioned in the post in the closing section. It's a shame I can not get a memory upgrade

[tjburr]

DW,

I got distracted by my son and never finished my train of thought; back to the memory upgrade...

I for one very much appreciate the work you have done on the preserving of this knowledge. I am sure some of you have experienced the same problem I have, but at present I have an old singer without a true manual. What I downloaded off the web has it's difficulties. It's not awful, and it's better than nothing, but at the same time I have to "guess".

To do the job right when it comes to reproduction takes some attention to detail, which is often lost in the rush to turn out quantity. I know when I have wanted to create PDF files of pages it always takes some manual tweaking to get something to my level of acceptance, and these are just for flat individual sheets. I have tried pages of books and have been dissatisfied.

The frustrating part is that it is often the pictures/drawings that are lost. The problem is that often the text is only part of what the author is trying to portray and you then only get part of the meaning. Of course then there are books that REALLY need more illustrations or better illustrations. Ahhhh to be able to draw...

I have been searching for close to a year as to the method of inserting the liner in a derby. I read with great attention the closing notes presented, but I had read a portion of a book that described things differently. I must admit that I should have posted the text here, but the problem is that the book was so vague I did not no exactly what to ask. A good picture to go along with it would have been worth lots. Sorry when I posted my message in the closing section I lacked the illustration portion myself (absolutely no drawing skills on my part). I hope to try the method with some pictures and post them if I ever get the time to make another derby.

So I very much appreciate the time you have spent.

Thanks
Terry