If you turn up a pile of Munsons, and can't use them all, or want somebody to go in with you, LMK
Lasts
-
btippit
Re: Lasts
Tom/Al,
I could probably get you some Munsons made from outside the US using my old TLW digital data but it would end up costing at least $65 plus shipping (and from where I'm thinking it would need to be billed to your Fed-Ex or other carrier's account number). So at that it would end up being almost as cheap for you to buy new domestically.
You might try to contact shoe companies that currently do business with the the US Gov to see if they have any old Munsons they are getting ready to pitch. Any they received from the Gov't they can't get rid of but they also are able to purchase their own lasts in some cases. Wellco, Wolverine, Belleville Shoe, Addison, and Rocky come to mind. It might be a dead end but all it takes is a call or a letter. I'd suggest just calling and asking to speak to the plant manager. If you can't get through, try to get his name and write him a letter. Some of these guys are very in tune with the "dieing art" and could be sympathetic.
They might not recognize the last by the name "Munson" so be descriptive or be ready to send them a sketch or tracing. I've still got my old TLW catalog if you need a jpeg of the side profile and last bottom. Good luck.
Bill Tippit
I could probably get you some Munsons made from outside the US using my old TLW digital data but it would end up costing at least $65 plus shipping (and from where I'm thinking it would need to be billed to your Fed-Ex or other carrier's account number). So at that it would end up being almost as cheap for you to buy new domestically.
You might try to contact shoe companies that currently do business with the the US Gov to see if they have any old Munsons they are getting ready to pitch. Any they received from the Gov't they can't get rid of but they also are able to purchase their own lasts in some cases. Wellco, Wolverine, Belleville Shoe, Addison, and Rocky come to mind. It might be a dead end but all it takes is a call or a letter. I'd suggest just calling and asking to speak to the plant manager. If you can't get through, try to get his name and write him a letter. Some of these guys are very in tune with the "dieing art" and could be sympathetic.
They might not recognize the last by the name "Munson" so be descriptive or be ready to send them a sketch or tracing. I've still got my old TLW catalog if you need a jpeg of the side profile and last bottom. Good luck.
Bill Tippit
-
tmattimore
Re: Lasts
Thanks bill that is a good idea I will follow up. I did talk to the guys at HH about three years ago and they said the Q.M. still carries the jump boot made on the munson as regulation so they won't get rid of the line unless they stop getting orders or get bought and closed down. You may know this but didn't the "Earth Shoe" get made on a munson at first?
Thanks Tom
Thanks Tom
-
das
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 1635
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2000 9:00 am
- Full Name: D.A. Saguto--HCC
- Has Liked: 149 times
- Been Liked: 136 times
Re: Lasts
Tom,
Better than "HH", Cove Shoe Co. in Martinsville, PA [see their website] also makes the "Corcoran" jump boots [a notch better quality than HH brand], and perhaps several others on Munsons. Carolina brand [some made by Cove as well] also does Munson-last boots. The jump boot is "approved" for private purchase, but is not a DOD item, or official issue. This might work in our favor--if they're still making a bunch of these, they will replace their Munsons as they wear out.
Annie Kelso of 'Earth Shoe' fame may have started out with a Munson [5-6/8" heel-height], or some Munson-like "Meyer Shape" last; but her big claim to fame was the "negative heel" effect, in which the effective heel-height [they were wedge soles] was lower than the treadline--like you were walking "uphill", or "barefoot in the sand" with your heels sinking lower. Of course she didn't take into consideration that the aggregate thickness/resistance of the bottoms resisted flexion more than if one were barefoot, and *some* effective heel-height was needed just to get the foot up to "neutral" or "barefoot" flexion. Anyway, you'd need to do major surgery on a Munson to drop its heel-height, creating an altogether different last. The bottom contours of a Munson are wonderful, but you'd loose all that if you chopped it for a "negative heel" as well. So, whatever benefits Munson lasts had, they were pretty much lost when remodeled to make "Earth Shoes", if that was indeed the case.
Better than "HH", Cove Shoe Co. in Martinsville, PA [see their website] also makes the "Corcoran" jump boots [a notch better quality than HH brand], and perhaps several others on Munsons. Carolina brand [some made by Cove as well] also does Munson-last boots. The jump boot is "approved" for private purchase, but is not a DOD item, or official issue. This might work in our favor--if they're still making a bunch of these, they will replace their Munsons as they wear out.
Annie Kelso of 'Earth Shoe' fame may have started out with a Munson [5-6/8" heel-height], or some Munson-like "Meyer Shape" last; but her big claim to fame was the "negative heel" effect, in which the effective heel-height [they were wedge soles] was lower than the treadline--like you were walking "uphill", or "barefoot in the sand" with your heels sinking lower. Of course she didn't take into consideration that the aggregate thickness/resistance of the bottoms resisted flexion more than if one were barefoot, and *some* effective heel-height was needed just to get the foot up to "neutral" or "barefoot" flexion. Anyway, you'd need to do major surgery on a Munson to drop its heel-height, creating an altogether different last. The bottom contours of a Munson are wonderful, but you'd loose all that if you chopped it for a "negative heel" as well. So, whatever benefits Munson lasts had, they were pretty much lost when remodeled to make "Earth Shoes", if that was indeed the case.
-
paul
- 8
- Posts: 1038
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:00 am
- Full Name: Paul Krause
- Location: Prescott, Arizona, USA
- Been Liked: 14 times
- Contact:
Re: Lasts
We've really been all over the place on the discussions of lasts, and I know I haven't read it all, but I'm looking for information.
Is there one amoung us who knows the model numbers of the different lasts used by the major boot manufactuers in the 1980's and beyond? Like Tony Lama, Justin, Dan Post, and Larry Mahan to name the ones I'm most interested in to know. I'm looking for the model numbers of the basic run of sizes, regardless of toe styles, used back before...
Does anyone know them?
Thank you in advance, PK
Is there one amoung us who knows the model numbers of the different lasts used by the major boot manufactuers in the 1980's and beyond? Like Tony Lama, Justin, Dan Post, and Larry Mahan to name the ones I'm most interested in to know. I'm looking for the model numbers of the basic run of sizes, regardless of toe styles, used back before...
Does anyone know them?
Thank you in advance, PK
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 122 times
- Contact:
Re: Lasts
Paul,
Bill Tippet had model numbers for many of the major commercial outfits. Trouble is that many of the last companies put their own proprietary numbers on the models. So if you find a maker that has a model 123n, which is purportedly a Justin model, you may have a much harder time finding a company that makes a model 123n even if they do have that exact size and shape and actually make it for Justin. Follow?
So, if all else fails you might just call JV or Sterling and ask them if they have models that this company or that used in the 1980's, whenever. Many times the last company will allow you to "adopt" that model. Sometimes they won't, too...but it's worth the asking.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Bill Tippet had model numbers for many of the major commercial outfits. Trouble is that many of the last companies put their own proprietary numbers on the models. So if you find a maker that has a model 123n, which is purportedly a Justin model, you may have a much harder time finding a company that makes a model 123n even if they do have that exact size and shape and actually make it for Justin. Follow?
So, if all else fails you might just call JV or Sterling and ask them if they have models that this company or that used in the 1980's, whenever. Many times the last company will allow you to "adopt" that model. Sometimes they won't, too...but it's worth the asking.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
-
btippit
Re: Lasts
Paul,
The key model numbers for Tony Lama from Jones and Vining when I was there from '74-'94 were as follow:
R-toe - V2533 (I'm sure)
J-toe - V2007 (I'm sure)
U-toe - JW10006 (I think)
We didn't do their L-toe and we did very little for Justin, Dan Post, or Mahan. Those were all made by Vulcan. However, since Vulcan and JV are one and the same now, I'd follow DW's advice and give Allen Smith a call at JV. If they won't sell you the actual Lama lasts, order the versions I sold at The Last Word which are:
R-toe - TLW-0001
J-toe - TLW-0004
U-toe - TLW-0006
They are the same lasts except I cleaned them out above the cuboids to keep the heels from slipping. Hope this helps.
Bill
The key model numbers for Tony Lama from Jones and Vining when I was there from '74-'94 were as follow:
R-toe - V2533 (I'm sure)
J-toe - V2007 (I'm sure)
U-toe - JW10006 (I think)
We didn't do their L-toe and we did very little for Justin, Dan Post, or Mahan. Those were all made by Vulcan. However, since Vulcan and JV are one and the same now, I'd follow DW's advice and give Allen Smith a call at JV. If they won't sell you the actual Lama lasts, order the versions I sold at The Last Word which are:
R-toe - TLW-0001
J-toe - TLW-0004
U-toe - TLW-0006
They are the same lasts except I cleaned them out above the cuboids to keep the heels from slipping. Hope this helps.
Bill
-
paul
- 8
- Posts: 1038
- Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:00 am
- Full Name: Paul Krause
- Location: Prescott, Arizona, USA
- Been Liked: 14 times
- Contact:
Re: Lasts
Thank you's to DW and Bill.
DW, I understand your point. Surely won't hurt to ask. I'll do that.
Bill, I will call Allen. JV's catalog does list a few different model numbers along with your TLW numbers for some of it's lasts. I'll ask about the others.
I'm intrigued by your statement of cleaning them out above the cuboid to keep the heels from slipping. I can visualize what's implied by that. It brings to mind times when I've added build ups in that area to come up to the measurements for the Low and/or High Instep. But I haven't had the complaint of heels slipping, yet. What do I conclude?
PK
DW, I understand your point. Surely won't hurt to ask. I'll do that.
Bill, I will call Allen. JV's catalog does list a few different model numbers along with your TLW numbers for some of it's lasts. I'll ask about the others.
I'm intrigued by your statement of cleaning them out above the cuboid to keep the heels from slipping. I can visualize what's implied by that. It brings to mind times when I've added build ups in that area to come up to the measurements for the Low and/or High Instep. But I haven't had the complaint of heels slipping, yet. What do I conclude?
PK
-
pablo
Re: Lasts
Paul,
Some J & V data on Tony Lama that has surfaced on this topic follows :
J toe model V2007 1961
R toe " V2533 1962
Golf toe " V7966 1969
L toe " V3352 1971
V toe " JV3353 1971 ( suit boot)
U toe " JV12466 1973 - #300 steel toe
N toe " 6017-1 1978
These were for volume production until 1980.All plastic, ofcourse.There were variations to each model.
pablo
Some J & V data on Tony Lama that has surfaced on this topic follows :
J toe model V2007 1961
R toe " V2533 1962
Golf toe " V7966 1969
L toe " V3352 1971
V toe " JV3353 1971 ( suit boot)
U toe " JV12466 1973 - #300 steel toe
N toe " 6017-1 1978
These were for volume production until 1980.All plastic, ofcourse.There were variations to each model.
pablo
-
btippit
Re: Lasts
Paul,
I cleaned out above the cuboids to reduce heel slippage because I was told by several custom bootmakers (who were my main clients at TLW) that most production lasts were too full in this area and that they'd rather build up if necessary than have to clean them out. I compared the Lama lasts to some good Luchesse lasts and old Krentler models and felt they were a little full.
Pablo - I'm not sure but it might be that the Golf Toe, L Toe, and N Toe numbers were JV's copies of lasts that had been made in production by Vulcan (all last companies did this). I never remember seeing a production order on any of these but I've slept since then so who knows. Besides, all should be available from JV now if you ask for them by style or ?-toe rather than model number. Man was I off on the U Toe number!! Now it all comes back to me. Thanks for the info.
Bill
I cleaned out above the cuboids to reduce heel slippage because I was told by several custom bootmakers (who were my main clients at TLW) that most production lasts were too full in this area and that they'd rather build up if necessary than have to clean them out. I compared the Lama lasts to some good Luchesse lasts and old Krentler models and felt they were a little full.
Pablo - I'm not sure but it might be that the Golf Toe, L Toe, and N Toe numbers were JV's copies of lasts that had been made in production by Vulcan (all last companies did this). I never remember seeing a production order on any of these but I've slept since then so who knows. Besides, all should be available from JV now if you ask for them by style or ?-toe rather than model number. Man was I off on the U Toe number!! Now it all comes back to me. Thanks for the info.
Bill
-
pablo
Re: Lasts
Bill,Paul,
After WWII, its very safe to say there were no longer original models( cow boy). Houses kept the back part and maybe the toe and the rest was up for grabs.Or, as in the named toe models above, some business chose a proprietary toe (L,N... etc.) which caught on in the industry and was copied repeatedly there after. Incidently, some examples of copied lasts are known in which business A ( bribed or "convinced" a last salesman
to copy company B's last and have it renamed with no trace of its original model known but to the perpetrators.
What we now see are modified last models which relate to the pre-WWII models but with so many permutations its pointless to decifer any one last's origin.
pablo
After WWII, its very safe to say there were no longer original models( cow boy). Houses kept the back part and maybe the toe and the rest was up for grabs.Or, as in the named toe models above, some business chose a proprietary toe (L,N... etc.) which caught on in the industry and was copied repeatedly there after. Incidently, some examples of copied lasts are known in which business A ( bribed or "convinced" a last salesman
to copy company B's last and have it renamed with no trace of its original model known but to the perpetrators.
What we now see are modified last models which relate to the pre-WWII models but with so many permutations its pointless to decifer any one last's origin.
pablo
-
shoestring
Re: Lasts
Speaking of last.While wareing ready made shoes I wore a 10 1/2D comfortably,so the first last I purchased was a 10 1/2D thinking it was right,now that I completed my first attempt.And when I tried them on they were longer than usual the width was fine and the heel was fine just seemed a little longer.Can anybody tell me what went wrong.And is there a company that I can order a catalog from that sell shoe last.Thanks Ed
-
btippit
Re: Lasts
Unfortunately Ed, there is no such thing as a 10 1/2D, or a 9D or any other size. Each production manufacturer has their own "standards" which are loosely based on the "standards" of the industry. There is no way of telling how close the 10 1/2D last you bought was to the lasts that made the shoes you've been happy with. Then you have the variables of your patterns and hand lasting versus the patterns and (most likely) machine lasting of the store boughts.
In my opinion, if you're going to use sizes as a guideline you should measure your feet (not foot) and size them according to whatever scales, charts, and standards you want to use. Then alter a last to be whatever size(s) you are and use that as your base and grade from there.
So many theories.....so little time.
Bill
In my opinion, if you're going to use sizes as a guideline you should measure your feet (not foot) and size them according to whatever scales, charts, and standards you want to use. Then alter a last to be whatever size(s) you are and use that as your base and grade from there.
So many theories.....so little time.
Bill
-
btippit
Re: Lasts
Tom,
I don't have your email address anymore and I get an error message when I click your name on your post. Mine is btippit@sbcglobal.net. I never got your first mail. Please try again.
Bill
I don't have your email address anymore and I get an error message when I click your name on your post. Mine is btippit@sbcglobal.net. I never got your first mail. Please try again.
Bill
-
thevolunteer
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 8:02 pm
- Full Name: Matthew Keagle
Re: Lasts
All,
I am new to this list, I work making shoes at Old Sturbridge Village and would very much like to make shoes on my own. My primary interest is in 18th Cnetury shoes, in Britain and British North America. To that end I have tried to start collecting my own tools and the like. What I really need now are lasts. I know that finding 18th century lasts in the modern day is quite difficult but I wondered if any of you involved in working with 18th century footwear could give me any leads as to where to find lasts that would be suitable for 18th century men's shoes. I will settle for plastic lasts in wood cannot be found, I just want something to start working with. Thanks, Cheers!
I Remain, &c.
Matthew Keagle
I am new to this list, I work making shoes at Old Sturbridge Village and would very much like to make shoes on my own. My primary interest is in 18th Cnetury shoes, in Britain and British North America. To that end I have tried to start collecting my own tools and the like. What I really need now are lasts. I know that finding 18th century lasts in the modern day is quite difficult but I wondered if any of you involved in working with 18th century footwear could give me any leads as to where to find lasts that would be suitable for 18th century men's shoes. I will settle for plastic lasts in wood cannot be found, I just want something to start working with. Thanks, Cheers!
I Remain, &c.
Matthew Keagle
-
dw
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 5830
- Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
- Full Name: DWFII
- Location: Redmond, OR
- Has Liked: 204 times
- Been Liked: 122 times
- Contact:
Re: Lasts
Matthew,
Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy.
If you have some original (antique) lasts from the time period, particularly in a mid-range size, you can generally send one of them to a last company like Jones and Vining and get models turned. Off of these models you can then have lasts turned. It's not cheap, the results will definitely be plastic, and you may lose the original last--or have it so damaged (they'll probably have to drill a few strategic holes in it to mount it on the lathe) that it's value as an antique will be lost. But from that one size and that one model a number of different sizes can be turned.
Al Saguto down in CW has had several 17th century models re-created this way and if I recall correctly has even come up with a way to preserve the original. Maybe he'll chime in here.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy.
If you have some original (antique) lasts from the time period, particularly in a mid-range size, you can generally send one of them to a last company like Jones and Vining and get models turned. Off of these models you can then have lasts turned. It's not cheap, the results will definitely be plastic, and you may lose the original last--or have it so damaged (they'll probably have to drill a few strategic holes in it to mount it on the lathe) that it's value as an antique will be lost. But from that one size and that one model a number of different sizes can be turned.
Al Saguto down in CW has had several 17th century models re-created this way and if I recall correctly has even come up with a way to preserve the original. Maybe he'll chime in here.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
-
das
- Seanchaidh
- Posts: 1635
- Joined: Wed Apr 26, 2000 9:00 am
- Full Name: D.A. Saguto--HCC
- Has Liked: 149 times
- Been Liked: 136 times
Re: Lasts
Matthew,
Welcome on board too. Say hi to Peter from Al will you.
Lasts are a problem, period lasts in wood are a huge problem. As DW mentioned, Jones & Vining is the only resource in the USA or Canada that I know of, they will need to drill holes in your antique to mount it for duplication, and the lasts will be plastic with hinges unless you can cajole them into turning you what are called "office models" in their red European Beech. For 18th c. lasts this is your best bet, as they were all one-piece "comb lasts" with no sawn-out instep block [that would be a "block last", or "scoop block" last, and you don't get those until after c.1810]. The last time I had them do this for CW, the lasts came out okay, but the wooden turning-blocks were not all oriented correctly--they should all be "bark-bottomed", that is oriented with the annular rings going across the width. Otherwise they split, warp, and crack.
On the model, best non-destructive way is to make a fine sand casting of the antique last, and have it poured in solid aluminum. Clean up any flaws on the aluminum model with Devcon aluminum epoxy putty, and send that off to be drilled and mounted.
Good luck.
Welcome on board too. Say hi to Peter from Al will you.
Lasts are a problem, period lasts in wood are a huge problem. As DW mentioned, Jones & Vining is the only resource in the USA or Canada that I know of, they will need to drill holes in your antique to mount it for duplication, and the lasts will be plastic with hinges unless you can cajole them into turning you what are called "office models" in their red European Beech. For 18th c. lasts this is your best bet, as they were all one-piece "comb lasts" with no sawn-out instep block [that would be a "block last", or "scoop block" last, and you don't get those until after c.1810]. The last time I had them do this for CW, the lasts came out okay, but the wooden turning-blocks were not all oriented correctly--they should all be "bark-bottomed", that is oriented with the annular rings going across the width. Otherwise they split, warp, and crack.
On the model, best non-destructive way is to make a fine sand casting of the antique last, and have it poured in solid aluminum. Clean up any flaws on the aluminum model with Devcon aluminum epoxy putty, and send that off to be drilled and mounted.
Good luck.
-
relferink
Re: Lasts
Matthew,
There are ways, you will need a pair of lasts to copy but they do not have to get damaged or destroyed. From the sound of it I think you got some leads here to get some good lasts.
It would be a 1 to 1 copy, it's not possible to have the sample reversed (make a Right last from a Left sample) and I don't think it's possible to scale in order to change the size.
For one you can use a Vac-U-Press to create a shell that you can fill with PolyUrethane (liquid lasts). I use this for my custom shoe lasts and even though it's a little softer than wood it works well.
A second option is having the sample lasts optically scanned and turned from wood without any hinges. I just ordered my first custom lasts and expect it in by the end of this month. This is a Canadian company that has developed this technique special for orthopedic shoe makers. I don't even know if they would offer it commercially and what the cost would be. I had a favor to collect on. If your interested I can find out for you. I'm right down the street from you in Woburn, MA and would be happy to help you out. I've been getting back into making most of my own last for the last year or so and be happy to share some of my experience.
Rob
There are ways, you will need a pair of lasts to copy but they do not have to get damaged or destroyed. From the sound of it I think you got some leads here to get some good lasts.
It would be a 1 to 1 copy, it's not possible to have the sample reversed (make a Right last from a Left sample) and I don't think it's possible to scale in order to change the size.
For one you can use a Vac-U-Press to create a shell that you can fill with PolyUrethane (liquid lasts). I use this for my custom shoe lasts and even though it's a little softer than wood it works well.
A second option is having the sample lasts optically scanned and turned from wood without any hinges. I just ordered my first custom lasts and expect it in by the end of this month. This is a Canadian company that has developed this technique special for orthopedic shoe makers. I don't even know if they would offer it commercially and what the cost would be. I had a favor to collect on. If your interested I can find out for you. I'm right down the street from you in Woburn, MA and would be happy to help you out. I've been getting back into making most of my own last for the last year or so and be happy to share some of my experience.
Rob
-
relferink
Re: Lasts
Matthew,
Come to think of it the most authentic way of doing this is finding the specs for such a period last, draw it out on paper and find yourself a piece of fire wood. You'd be more of a woodworker than shoemaker but how hard can that be?
I have no idea about the specifics on lasts from that period but I'm sure there are people on this board that do. This way you can make the size and width to whatever you need. If the lasts are for yourself you can make a very well fitting and comfortable last, probably more so than when you buy a stock last, even if it's period appropriate.
Rob
Come to think of it the most authentic way of doing this is finding the specs for such a period last, draw it out on paper and find yourself a piece of fire wood. You'd be more of a woodworker than shoemaker but how hard can that be?
I have no idea about the specifics on lasts from that period but I'm sure there are people on this board that do. This way you can make the size and width to whatever you need. If the lasts are for yourself you can make a very well fitting and comfortable last, probably more so than when you buy a stock last, even if it's period appropriate.
Rob
-
Erick Wilcox
Re: Lasts
Hello all,
I'm in Chicago and new to this forum. I collect vintage lasts that I use to make shoes on.
I have a (hopefully) quick question:
In an earlier post DW said to use a mid-sized last to send to JV, I have heard this before, but I haven't figured out why - If the last is simply scaled larger or smaller, where does the size of the original last come into play - if I have a size five and I need a size 10 or vice versa.
I'm in Chicago and new to this forum. I collect vintage lasts that I use to make shoes on.
I have a (hopefully) quick question:
In an earlier post DW said to use a mid-sized last to send to JV, I have heard this before, but I haven't figured out why - If the last is simply scaled larger or smaller, where does the size of the original last come into play - if I have a size five and I need a size 10 or vice versa.
-
hidesmith
- 3
- Posts: 137
- Joined: Fri Jan 29, 1999 10:00 am
- Full Name: Bruce Graham
Re: Lasts
Proportion changes as the size increases or decreases on the turning lathe. It is better to use 2 or 3 different sized lasts, but in the absence of more than one size, it's best to use one closest to the middle of the run.
-
pablo
Re: Lasts
Eric Wilcox,
Distortions to last shapes happen and are are a result of computer program "compromises" or mechanical limitations in lathes when duplicating models and particularly so when attempting large variation duplication such as making a 10 last from a 4 model.
The term mid sized last for your purpose may need
adjusting in the following sense.
Be aware that the original last house models were
probably the width D in sizes 4,6,8,10. Some houses had different models for their runs, but at the turn of 1900( in US) those were standards. Knowing that, your best choice then would be one of the 4,6,8 10 in D if you can find them. If you locate say a 9 1/2 EEE, be aware that you are several widths away from the original model that
generated its formation and was graduated to its final size and shape by the judgement of the last maker in the factory ( not the model maker by the way)who used his eye and "some" templates to get the last "right".
Good Luck.
Distortions to last shapes happen and are are a result of computer program "compromises" or mechanical limitations in lathes when duplicating models and particularly so when attempting large variation duplication such as making a 10 last from a 4 model.
The term mid sized last for your purpose may need
adjusting in the following sense.
Be aware that the original last house models were
probably the width D in sizes 4,6,8,10. Some houses had different models for their runs, but at the turn of 1900( in US) those were standards. Knowing that, your best choice then would be one of the 4,6,8 10 in D if you can find them. If you locate say a 9 1/2 EEE, be aware that you are several widths away from the original model that
generated its formation and was graduated to its final size and shape by the judgement of the last maker in the factory ( not the model maker by the way)who used his eye and "some" templates to get the last "right".
Good Luck.
-
Erick Wilcox
Re: Lasts
Thanks, I usually aim for B width lasts.
I quess I'm just surprised that the machines lose information - I wonder if this is solved with the digitizing they do at JV or is that what you are speaking of, Pablo?
Bruce, Are those proportion changes specific to certain parts of the foot? Can they be easily built up or filed down?
Thank you
Erick Wilcox
I quess I'm just surprised that the machines lose information - I wonder if this is solved with the digitizing they do at JV or is that what you are speaking of, Pablo?
Bruce, Are those proportion changes specific to certain parts of the foot? Can they be easily built up or filed down?
Thank you
Erick Wilcox