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Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 6:58 am
by das
Roy,

We'll be getting samples from: http://www.tannerie-garat.com/ this summer, hope they do the weights we need.

Cheers,
Al

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue May 17, 2016 7:07 am
by das
Also, though not veg-tanned nor stout thickness, if you've ever used Freudenberg calf it seems they're back trading as: http://weinheimer-leder.com/en/wl/history/1849/

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Oct 22, 2016 10:37 am
by proxy_posting
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The second iteration of RISD's Leather Footwear Futures. Attendees will be crafting Tuscan vegetable tanned leather with master craftsmen visiting from Tuscany, Italy. These workshops are craft-based within the context of understanding the material, sustainability and cultural values of the leather crafting process.

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Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:37 am
by proxy_posting
Just for the sake of curiousity: All three referencing DW.

From Squalor to Baller

Die, Workwear!

Keikari

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:44 am
by homeboy
Dee-Dubb........ :thumb:

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 8:19 pm
by dmcharg
G'day All,
Does anyone know if the Shoemaker's Competition in Germany is still going? Ref: International competition on the merits of Shoemakers' trade 2016 Host: Central Association of the German Shoemakers' Trade (ZDS)
The most recent hits I can find date from the 2016 comp and I was hoping to try entering. Web pages tend to be in German too.
Cheers
Screen Shot 2017-06-26 at 1.17.48 pm.png
Screen Shot 2017-06-26 at 1.15.53 pm.png

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 4:21 am
by paul
Duncan,
Lisa Sorrell has been attending the European shoe shows and competition. She may have some information for you.

And btw, I thought I'd let you know that lately I've been doing a back stitch on my Opanka Soles. :-)
With regards,
Paul

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 3:45 am
by dmcharg
Thanks Paul, And wishing you continued success with your hand sewing :beers:
Cheers
Duncan

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 12:26 pm
by das
Maybe old news, but I just was told yesterday Pilgrim Shoe Sewing Machine, in Massachusetts, is going out of business. No idea is Shoe ReNu will pick up their line of parts. This is not an endorsement, just a heads up for those who've depended on Pilgrim for decades.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:44 pm
by paul
Thanks for the heads up, Al.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 10:11 pm
by homeboy
My-oh-my! Sad!

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 7:42 am
by das
A shoe exhibition by HCC boardee Edward Meader, accompanied by a wonderfully illustrated book: http://www.avenuemagazine.com/footwear- ... t_id=12627

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2018 6:24 am
by das
Another shoe-book! For those of you who attended the AGM at Bata Shoe Museum, you'll recall Kimberly's excellent presentation touching on many aspects covered in her forthcoming book: http://www.silkdamask.org/2018/04/treas ... -from.html

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 5:22 am
by dw
The World Championship in Shoemaking was held in London this past weekend with Patrick Frei of Germany taking first place and Daniel Wegan taking second. This was a very professional and classy event and all those who entered were among the very best in the world.

Jesper Ingevaldsson's Shoegazing blog has a comprehensive initial write up/overview and a good look at Patrick Frei's entry as well as those of the second and third place entries.

The Frei entry is remarkable on several levels...not the least of which is the shoetree (not judged)... as is Daniels Wegan's entry featuring outsole stitching done at 21spi.

Well worth the reading....well worth the awe and inspiration evoked.

Patrick Frei's Website

And here is a look at the rules and criteria used in the judging, as well as a list of the jurors (some high powered talent there as well).

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:33 am
by das
Wow! Just wow. HCC held Prize Work competitions years ago (same anonymous criteria), Ernie Peterkin devised, but too many members were intimidated by it, so it went by the board. It took a lot of cajoling (like offering to waive the AGM registration fee) just to get members confident enough to wear their own work to meetings, which many seem to do now with no inducement. DW, didn't you win it one year for the Western boot category?

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 10:27 am
by dw
das wrote: Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:33 am Wow! Just wow.
I know, right. I see these guys on Instagram a lot (I follow most of them,) but other than there and maybe Styleforum, you don't run across work of this caliber anywhere else on the 'net. It's mind blowing, sometimes. Creates perspective, for certain.
HCC held Prize Work competitions years ago (same anonymous criteria), Ernie Peterkin devised, but too many members were intimidated by it, so it went by the board. It took a lot of cajoling (like offering to waive the AGM registration fee) just to get members confident enough to wear their own work to meetings, which many seem to do now with no inducement. DW, didn't you win it one year for the Western boot category?
Yes, I won it the only year I entered, with a pair of short top, lace-up bootshoes...don't know that there was a dedicated Western Boot category, though. But I wasn't there--seems to me that Dan sponsored my entry that year.

But the thing that bogles me is to think of the courage...and the authentic humility...it takes to put your work out there for inspection and critique (even criticism). From talking to one of the jurors (who has become somewhat of a digital friend) I suspect that the near world-wide support among the people who entered actually fosters courage...or makes it moot...simply because there's so much respect for each other in that crowd. And very damn few secrets.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 8:46 am
by das
A knock-on article about the Weitzman exhibition: https://www.womanaroundtown.com/section ... ric-shoes/

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:00 am
by dw
Jesper Ingevalsson has posted a follow-up and comprehensive review of the top 30 entrants in the recent World Championship of Shoemaking.

To begin, the criteria for the judging is detailed as well as a cursory introduction to the judges themselves.

Each entry is critiqued, highlighting both the things that impressed the judges as well as issues that did not. It is quite detailed. And there are many, many photos of each entry, including photos of techniques of construction--a few eye-openers there.

It is well worth the read....even for those whose eyes bleed easily.

This is in two parts--entries 1-10, and entries 11-30. The link to the blog is below.

Shoegazing World Championship

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:49 am
by das
This is well worth a lingering look I think. Little to quibble with re the judges decisions IMO, except the winners' heel-wheeling is a bit erratic. Wegan's 21 per inch in the welt stitching is superb, but why smother such perfection with blacking! Nice to see uppers properly floating on top the welt at the toe, as if "on a dinner plate". Hard to imagine a 13,000 Euro price for shoes though. Would have been nice to see an entry from Jan Peter Myhre, Oslo, who IMO captures the West End quality/aesthetic of the early 1900s.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:08 am
by dw
das wrote: Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:49 am This is well worth a lingering look I think. Little to quibble with re the judges decisions IMO, except the winners' heel-wheeling is a bit erratic. Wegan's 21 per inch in the welt stitching is superb, but why smother such perfection with blacking! Nice to see uppers properly floating on top the welt at the toe, as if "on a dinner plate". Hard to imagine a 13,000 Euro price for shoes though. Would have been nice to see an entry from Jan Peter Myhre, Oslo, who IMO captures the West End quality/aesthetic of the early 1900s.
Not sure what you mean there. Personally, I don't like to see the toe floating too high above the welt. I think it creates a disconnect. And the welt protects the toe to some extent, so too high exposes it and makes it more vulnerable.

For instance, I like the way the toe on #2 sits better than the toe on #1...and I really, really don't like the toe on #9.

And while we're at it I am shocked at the heel breast on #2. The maker is one of my "heros" but that's not stable, IMO...and my experience.

All of this is admittedly personal preference with zero historical basis I suspect...good thing I wasn't a judge. :cool:

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:18 pm
by das
I was always taught, and one of the elder gents in London used the phrase, the toe should sit on the welt "like it was on a dinner plate". Just an aesthetic is all, and one too seldom seen anymore. And like anything, sure, it can be overdone. You sure don't want to see any of the sewing thread "showing its teeth" in that space, but the upper should be burnished up hard against the last's feather-line and therefore distinctly away from the welt.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:38 am
by dw
Traditional Arts Day at the High Desert museum south of Bend, Oregon. Invited exhibitors were chosen from the Culture Keepers roster maintained by the Oregon Folklife Network which is affiliated / associated with the national Endowment for the Arts.

On the porch of a small cabin which could legitimately be called a "ten footer" except it was set up as a cabin (bed, stove, etc.) rather than a shoe shop.
20180623_131744_cropped.jpg

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 8:59 pm
by paul
Very cool! And of course, you look the part.

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 8:23 pm
by homeboy
Paul,

I think Dee-Dubb is in trouble and Randee has put him in the "ten-footer"! Looks like he has all his stuff there. That's Home Sweet Home for DW! ;) :crackup:

Re: Of interest...

Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2018 3:26 pm
by melodychia
Just got back to Australia from the Footwear Symposium in Savannah and it was an incredible weekend of learning and meeting amazing people! Bo Riddle and Greg Carmack were awarded Master Bootmaker titles by the Footwear Makers Guild. The topics presented at the Symposium were super diverse and included topics like:
  • Foot Function and Shoe Practicality by Dr. Rosemarie Resendez
  • Emerging Technologies and Automated Processes in the Craft of Shoemaking by Mohop founder, Annie Mohaupt
  • US Footwear Marketplace: Prospects, Pitfalls & Policy by Gary Raines from the FDRA
  • American Alligator: Protection Through Collection by Christy Plott from American Tanning
  • A Cowboy Boot Story by Paul Krause
Marcell Mrsan, the Guild President was also very complimentary about The HCC and gave y'all a shout out. Maybe we'll see some of you at next year's Symposium?