The Gallery

This is a photo gallery for members of the forum. Here you can share photos of your latest work for members to view. Like an Art gallery, however, where the exhibits come and go, photos will be deleted on a regular basis to save room on the server. Beauty, like Art, is fleeting.
Message
Author
User avatar
Herr_Leeb
1
1
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:31 pm
Full Name: Alexander Leeb
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1351 Post by Herr_Leeb » Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:04 am

Fascinating work.
You are recreating shoes which were without a doubt made by the Berlutis of their time, not an easy feat. Kudos!!!
Your website is very interesting as well, love it.
Cheers,
A.

martin
2
2
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:00 am
Full Name: Martin Moser
Location: near Munich, Germany
Has Liked: 1 time
Been Liked: 4 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1352 Post by martin » Wed Dec 30, 2015 9:44 am

Thanks Alexander! Visited your blog, very nice read - looking forward for more!

Cheers,
Martin

User avatar
Herr_Leeb
1
1
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:31 pm
Full Name: Alexander Leeb
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1353 Post by Herr_Leeb » Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:38 am

I will take a break from shoe making for a while, so this is probably my last pair . Blue Stingray and black calf.
Thank you all for your feedback and advice, it has been a pleasure.
Cheers,
A.
Stingray.JPG
Stingray2.JPG

paul
8
8
Posts: 1014
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:00 am
Full Name: Paul Krause
Location: Prescott, Arizona, USA
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1354 Post by paul » Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:57 am

:beers: l LIKE 'em!
You'll be missed.
Paul

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1355 Post by dw » Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:04 am

Nice.

I like them, even though I'm not wild about stingray.

But that's the way to do it--overlay a fine grained leather over the stingray to make the seam. Sewing directly into stingray is always problematic. I played with the overlay idea years ago...when 'ray first came on the market...and after breaking numerous needles in my OCD quest for a straight, even line of stitching, decided that if it were done 'twere better done like that. At which point, I decided 'twere better not done.

Never made a full pair of SR. Good on you.
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

User avatar
Herr_Leeb
1
1
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:31 pm
Full Name: Alexander Leeb
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1356 Post by Herr_Leeb » Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:28 am

I'm not crazy about Stingray either, it's a bit too flashy for me and I don't think I will wear these very often.
To be honest, I initially attempted to make seamless wholecuts with it - and failed. I don't think its possible because of the pebbles...
But it has it's advantages. No creasing and very easy to clean. Just wipe 'em off.

There is one easy way to avoid broken needles when working with Stingray:
Handcrank the sewing machine and go very slowly. This way the needle has a chance to slide off the pebbles.
I used an old table sewing machine with a standard needle and had no problem sewing.

martin
2
2
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:00 am
Full Name: Martin Moser
Location: near Munich, Germany
Has Liked: 1 time
Been Liked: 4 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1357 Post by martin » Thu Jan 14, 2016 1:41 am

Very nice! I like the look of them :-)

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1358 Post by dw » Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:36 am

Herr_Leeb » Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:28 am wrote:
There is one easy way to avoid broken needles when working with Stingray:
Handcrank the sewing machine and go very slowly. This way the needle has a chance to slide off the pebbles.
You're right, that works...sort of...and I have no objection to handcranking if necessary (speed kills).

But I'm an "alpha-numerical" male--OCD, IOW. And I'd almost rather the broken needles than the way the line of stitching meanders erratically around the pebbles--some stitches to the left (because the needle is sliding off the pebble to the left), some to the right; some short, some long.

At least that was my experience.
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

User avatar
Herr_Leeb
1
1
Posts: 43
Joined: Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:31 pm
Full Name: Alexander Leeb
Location: Los Angeles
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1359 Post by Herr_Leeb » Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:08 am

dw » Thu Jan 14, 2016 7:36 am wrote:
Herr_Leeb » Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:28 am wrote:
There is one easy way to avoid broken needles when working with Stingray:
Handcrank the sewing machine and go very slowly. This way the needle has a chance to slide off the pebbles.
You're right, that works...sort of...and I have no objection to handcranking if necessary (speed kills).

But I'm an "alpha-numerical" male--OCD, IOW. And I'd almost rather the broken needles than the way the line of stitching meanders erratically around the pebbles--some stitches to the left (because the needle is sliding off the pebble to the left), some to the right; some short, some long.

At least that was my experience.
DW,
I hear you loud and clear. As an amateur with limited skills and subpar equipment straight, clean stitches are a constant struggle for me.
Since I only have an old table sewing machine, getting an even line around the heel for example is difficult.

My workaround is not a technique which could be called professional by any means, it is rather something in the catagory "How to milk a mouse", but if you can't work smarter, you have to work harder :)

I PRESTITCH the holes on the leather while I can still lay it out flat, before assembly. I then glue the pieces to hold them in place and stitch through the existing holes.
In this set up, it does not matter if the needle slides a bit, the line will be fairly straight.

At least it looks ok from the highway in my mind...
IMG_2456.jpg
large.jpg
Cheers,
A.

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1360 Post by dw » Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:08 am

Just finished these for a long time (30 years) customer.

Black waxed flesh buckle chukka, seamless back (inside and out), straps hand stitched at 12 spi.
DSCF3259 (1024 x 768).jpg
DSCF3266 (1024 x 768).jpg
DSCF3264 (1024 x 768).jpg
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

User avatar
homeboy
6
6
Posts: 343
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:00 am
Full Name: Jake Dobbins
Location: Mountain View, AR
Has Liked: 3 times
Been Liked: 4 times

Re: The Gallery

#1361 Post by homeboy » Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:05 pm

Dee-Dubb,

Those look NICE!! 12 stitches per inch? :bowdown:
What one man has done....another can do.

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1362 Post by dw » Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:49 pm

homeboy » Sat Feb 13, 2016 9:05 pm wrote:Dee-Dubb,

Those look NICE!! 12 stitches per inch? :bowdown:
Well, thanks Jake.

But IIRC, I was recently told that to get through the five level apprenticeship and become a journeyman (not master)...in the only Federally recognized certification program (established in 1940)...you have to be able to do 16spi on soles and 22spi on uppers. All by hand, all by eye.

:greatnotion:
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

User avatar
homeboy
6
6
Posts: 343
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:00 am
Full Name: Jake Dobbins
Location: Mountain View, AR
Has Liked: 3 times
Been Liked: 4 times

Re: The Gallery

#1363 Post by homeboy » Sun Feb 14, 2016 6:32 am

Dee-Dubb,

What's "BELOW" a journeyman? :brickwall:

Just put me in the basement.....

Hope all is well Ol'buddy!
What one man has done....another can do.

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1364 Post by dw » Sun Feb 14, 2016 7:13 am

homeboy » Sun Feb 14, 2016 6:32 am wrote:Dee-Dubb,

What's "BELOW" a journeyman? :brickwall:

Just put me in the basement.....

Hope all is well Ol'buddy!
Jake,

Multiple levels of apprentice in a 5+ year program to be certified as a journeyman.

As for the basement...as June Swann suggested, we are all there (with a few exceptions, such as DAS--who is a certified, bona fide Master)--it's hubris to think otherwise.

The best you can do (and more than most will seriously pursue) is make sure you're on the stairs.
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

brooklyn_edie
1
1
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:28 pm
Full Name: Brooklyn_edie
Location: brooklyn, ny, usa
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1365 Post by brooklyn_edie » Mon Feb 22, 2016 7:44 pm

... to the previous posts.... that makes me an amoeba.... in the basement of a basement of a journeyman's chimney sweep
--------------

Meant to post these some time ago. Amoebas move slow tho.

Porto Cow from the old Hardtke for tops. Bottoms is a different skin from the shop. Last size = 3. Built up from C to at least EE. Tiny but real chunky foot.

Customer is very happy. And that sure makes me smile.

Had some words of advice on these from Lee Miller, Wild Bill, and a visit with Paul Krause. Thanks much to all.
Attachments
OBC_ladiesBlk_web1.jpg
OBC Luz Boots

User avatar
homeboy
6
6
Posts: 343
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:00 am
Full Name: Jake Dobbins
Location: Mountain View, AR
Has Liked: 3 times
Been Liked: 4 times

Re: The Gallery

#1366 Post by homeboy » Mon Feb 22, 2016 8:18 pm

Looking good! Great job!

You were talking to the right people!

Take care!
What one man has done....another can do.

paul
8
8
Posts: 1014
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:00 am
Full Name: Paul Krause
Location: Prescott, Arizona, USA
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1367 Post by paul » Mon Feb 22, 2016 9:41 pm

Wow Edie! Nice job! Really good looking last! And the edges show lots of attention.
Thank you for including me in your comments, but it's all your work.
Paul

brooklyn_edie
1
1
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:28 pm
Full Name: Brooklyn_edie
Location: brooklyn, ny, usa
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1368 Post by brooklyn_edie » Fri Feb 26, 2016 11:30 am

Thank youz sirs et al.

Nevertheless, your advice on adjusting the heel angle made all the difference.
:bowdown:

Manuel
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2016 3:41 pm
Full Name: Manuel

Re: The Gallery

#1369 Post by Manuel » Thu Mar 17, 2016 3:45 pm

Hi to all,
I'm new here. I'm spanish and I want to share with you my work, I hope you like it.
They are a Chukkas made totally by hand, the model has been made between alden and John Lobb.

Image

Image

Image

Image
A greeting.

martin
2
2
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:00 am
Full Name: Martin Moser
Location: near Munich, Germany
Has Liked: 1 time
Been Liked: 4 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1370 Post by martin » Fri Mar 18, 2016 3:35 am

Nice work, Manuel - thanks for showing!
What types of leather/tannage did you use?

Manuel
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2016 3:41 pm
Full Name: Manuel

Re: The Gallery

#1371 Post by Manuel » Fri Mar 18, 2016 8:06 am

martin » Fri Mar 18, 2016 3:35 am wrote:Nice work, Manuel - thanks for showing!
What types of leather/tannage did you use?
Hi martin,
Nubuck is the leather I used, but I have all the videos and I'd like to konw if you want to upload their videos as have been made.
Thank you very much.

martin
2
2
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:00 am
Full Name: Martin Moser
Location: near Munich, Germany
Has Liked: 1 time
Been Liked: 4 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1372 Post by martin » Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:10 am

That would certainly be interesting to watch :-)

martin
2
2
Posts: 64
Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:00 am
Full Name: Martin Moser
Location: near Munich, Germany
Has Liked: 1 time
Been Liked: 4 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1373 Post by martin » Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:15 am

A pair of Kuhmaul or Tudor style shoes based on a find from Alpirsbach in Germany, likely from the 1520s (Fingerlin, Ilse. Textil- und Lederfunde. In: Alpirsbach. Zur Geschichte von Kloster und Stadt. Textband 2. Forschungen und Berichte der Bau- und Kunstdenkmalpflege Baden-Württemberg 10 (Stuttgart 2001) 715-817).
The shoe is typical for its type, an upper consisting of 2 pieces with a heel stiffener and a top band. A strap helps keeping the shoe firmly on the foot. The original was in heavy and likely long use, being repaired repeatedly.
The reconstruction you can see here is based on this find. The way the strap is attached differs from the original as does the width, mine is ca. 1cm narrower at the widest point. The insole decoration (2 slightly different types, don't ask ...) is taken from another 16th cent. shoe shown at the Deutsches Ledermuseum Offenbach. I made the pair with doubled soles front and back. The extra soles are sewn on with a double blind stitch as it was typically done at the time when adding extra soles to prolong the lifetime of the shoe.

Cheers,
Martin
Attachments
AlpirsbachKuhmaul_28.JPG
AlpirsbachKuhmaul_35.JPG
AlpirsbachKuhmaul_38_small.JPG

paul
8
8
Posts: 1014
Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:00 am
Full Name: Paul Krause
Location: Prescott, Arizona, USA
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1374 Post by paul » Sun Mar 20, 2016 6:10 am

Manuel, and Martin,
Thank you for sharing your work with us. You both are respected Craftsmen.
With Regards,
Paul

User avatar
dw
Seanachaidh
Posts: 5373
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 1997 10:00 am
Full Name: DWFII
Location: Redmond, OR
Has Liked: 39 times
Been Liked: 3 times
Contact:

Re: The Gallery

#1375 Post by dw » Sun Mar 20, 2016 6:49 am

Martin,

Interesting! I like them.
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

Post Reply