The Gallery

This is a photo gallery for members of the forum. Here you can share photos of your latest work for members to view. Like an Art gallery, however, where the exhibits come and go, photos will be deleted on a regular basis to save room on the server. Beauty, like Art, is fleeting.
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macvest
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Re: The Gallery

#1251 Post by macvest »

dw » Mon Jun 01, 2015 1:09 pm wrote:Nice looking!

What is the leather?

Probably just as well to abandon the last if you're having that much trouble. Seems to have a little too much toe spring as well.

IMO...
The leather is calf, I just begged at the AA Cracks for something cheap to practice on and he sent me away with a few small off cuts.
I think I will be investing in some new lasts on my next visit to Northampton. In the meantime I have started making a Lasting Jack? as my searches online didn't produce anything I could afford.
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Re: The Gallery

#1252 Post by dw »

Just finished these--burnishable buffalo calf, antiqued, 5/8" heel
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Re: The Gallery

#1253 Post by dw »

Another recent pair...

ostrich vamps kangaroo tops 1-5/8" heel.
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Re: The Gallery

#1254 Post by homeboy »

Dee-Dubb,

Good stuff always comes from your neck of the woods! Don't you ever mess up? :thumb:

On a side note: You are recognized in the July edition of Shop Talk for winning the Academy of Western Artist Award for bootmaking. Once again, it's well deserved!

Keep that leather coming.......!

Adios, Jake
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Re: The Gallery

#1255 Post by paul »

Both pair are beautiful DW.

I'm curious about the back line on the ankle boots.
Patterning that I've work off of seems to bring it inward too much. And it's hard to maintain any volume here. Furthermore working with a standard last, it seems to draw in even more. I've wondered before about the boot lasts with the higher heel section as helpful to combat this.
Obviously you patterned this top line away from vertical, and the answer might be better placed in another thread, but what more can you tell me about what you did here?

TIA,
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Re: The Gallery

#1256 Post by dw »

I pretty much use the recipe from Golding? Thornton? (I can't remember off-hand.)

I am just getting to the point where I understand it well enough to alter it. I have another pair in the works that I've lowered the topline some and changed a line here or there.

Especially with shoes...where the pattern is supposed to leave you with an upper that already conforms pretty closely to the last...I don't hoist much, if at all, and I watch my lasting margins more carefully. It's easy to pull a chukka/George boot or a jodhpur too far forward on the last.

Beyond that, backlines should be curved unless you're trying to emulate the "too-much-trouble-to be-bothered-with-it" look of the factory.
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Re: The Gallery

#1257 Post by paul »

Thank you DW,
I didn't ask my question well enough, but your answer gets close to the point.
I appreciate your reference to patterning relative to hoisting.
I'll have to come back to this, but I like what you've done here, and wish to emulate it. :)
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Re: The Gallery

#1258 Post by tjburr »

This is a pair I completed recently for my wife.
sherlock-shoes.JPG
Terry
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Re: The Gallery

#1259 Post by paul »

Very cool Terry. I'm sure the back story is a good one.
Which one of you is the pipe smoker?
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Re: The Gallery

#1260 Post by dw »

I'm wondering what the "Moriarty" pair will look like...

:greatnotion:
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Re: The Gallery

#1261 Post by dmcharg »

A lady with hard to fit feet has now (for the first time) a pair of shoes that are made just for her. The upper and lining are veg. tanned kangaroo hide. Insole, shank, sole and stacked heel out of veg. cow. Entirely hand sewn (the stitches in the upper are approx. 1.8mm each) with hand rolled threads. Used methods from 1895 (which means the stacked leather heel is hand sewn all the way through and anchored behind the stitches that hold the upper to the insole. Can't come off, but, boy, what a job).
The shoe laces I made with cotton satin ribbon with brass tubing 'aglets' that were crimped on with a pair of old pliers I'd modified. Eyelets are also from brass tubing set with a little jig I made that gives them exactly the same, smooth, finish top and bottom.

Side view.JPG
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Re: The Gallery

#1262 Post by dmcharg »

I also decided to have a go at making a timber shoebox for them, as I enjoy working in wood. I used 3mm hardwood ply, laying out the design with a quality, oil based, 1mm tipped gold marker, which I then in filled with the same dyes as on the shoes, though mixed with shellac to stop it from spreading when came the time to shellac the whole box. The end effect was akin to inlay work. Lined with fitted sponge shapes and velvet.
I was very pleased with the end result of this job.
Duncan's shoebox 1.JPG
Duncan's shoebox 2.JPG
Duncan's shoebox 3.JPG
Cheers
Duncan
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Re: The Gallery

#1263 Post by paul »

:tiphat:
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Re: The Gallery

#1264 Post by homeboy »

Very nice Duncan! :beers:
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Re: The Gallery

#1265 Post by homeboy »

Hey Terry!

Good job! Thanks for posting.....keep'em coming!
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Re: The Gallery

#1266 Post by tjburr »

Duncan,
I like the hand made details and the description of using the leather dyes on the box. That was a nice touch. I remember the write up on making eyelets and I like the fact the aglets match the eyelets, which makes me want to try it on a future pair of shoes.

Terry
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Re: The Gallery

#1267 Post by tjburr »

The shoes are for my wife who is a BIG Sherlock Holmes fan.

This was an attempt to try something different, looking for sort of a dress-casual look. The vamp to quarter line was borrowed from an early 1900's picture. I will post more on the cutting of the letters when I get some pictures together.

A Moriarty pair would be interesting as a companion pair :)

Terry
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Re: The Gallery

#1268 Post by dw »

Duncan,

Great workmanship, always enjoy seeing your latest.

I wanted to ask you a question...but didn't think it appropriate in this thread.

So I posted it here
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Re: The Gallery

#1269 Post by FABRIZIO GIANSOLDATI »

Hi to all shoemaker and bootmaker,

Here are my last shoes that I' ve made for my daughter Veronica, they are are derby in two colours where the blue is handpainted like the "brogue" are hand made with a paper pattern.
The shoes are goodyear hand sewn, in the other "Techniques" section I' ve posted some pictures about the construction.

I hope you like them.

Have a nice day.
Theese are the shoes:
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Re: The Gallery

#1270 Post by dw »

Fabrizio,

Very nice work.

One thing though...and I may have mentioned this before..."Goodyear" welting refers to a machine technique. It was named after Charles Goodyear Jr.--the man who "invented" the process in 1869. It is not the same as hand welted and technically cannot be done by hand and still be called "goodyear" (although if one uses gemming cemented to the bottom of the insole instead of a channeled insole it can be replicated by hand...why anyone would want to is another question :tinfoil: ).

I understand that many Italian shoemakers refer to hand welting to a channeled insole as "hand sewn Goodyear" but this is an incorrect usage of the words and confusing at the very least...maybe even a bit disrespectful of the Traditions...as hand welted work pre-dates the Goodyear process by 300 some years.

FWIW...
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Re: The Gallery

#1271 Post by FABRIZIO GIANSOLDATI »

...ok sorry, the same my wrong use of the word, I want to adjust my definition, the shoes that I' ve posted aren't Goodyear welted but only hand welted, as the Administrator said.

Bye
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Re: The Gallery

#1272 Post by dw »

No worries... :beers:
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Re: The Gallery

#1273 Post by paul »

Goodyear welted is like Cobbler, words that set the nerves on edge to a boot/shoemaker.
We take pride in the effort and time it takes to do a good inseam, the same pride as a skillful shoe repairmen who doesn't want to be confused with a label traditionally applied to poor, shoddy work.
Consequently we sometimes view our job as to educate while trying not to irritate.
Paul
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Re: The Gallery

#1274 Post by dw »

paul » Mon Aug 31, 2015 8:34 am wrote:Goodyear welted is like Cobbler, words that set the nerves on edge to a boot/shoemaker.
We take pride in the effort and time it takes to do a good inseam, the same pride as a skillful shoe repairmen who doesn't want to be confused with a label traditionally applied to poor, shoddy work.
Consequently we sometimes view our job as to educate while trying not to irritate.
Paul
+1 :thumb:

And we have an obligation...implied in the Guild motto and the mission statement...to preserve the Trade and the Traditions. I, personally, think that means not letting techniques or terminology be diluted or dumbed down to the point where the Guild and this forum can no longer be a source for authoritative knowledge.

I myself have too often been the culprit in promulgating inaccurate or lazy information.

And while I agree with you 100%, sometimes "irritation" is in the eye of the beholder. :)
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Re: The Gallery

#1275 Post by FABRIZIO GIANSOLDATI »

Good evening (here in Italy) Paul and dw,

first of all: :beers:


you are right...I think that handmade shoes is a very precision work, so it' s very important use right terms, my error stems from habit...

I am not irritate... in Italy there is not a forum like this, so for me is a great pleasure speak with someone about my passion and show my works.

For dw

when you asked me: "I could only wish for a closer look at the bottom of the shoe just after you inseamed"

I think you want to see this (is the maximum that I could do), but I have other photos if you like


"


Good shoes and boots to all.

Fabrizio
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