The Honourable Cordwainers' Company
is pleased to announce the
33rd Annual General Meeting
in cooperation with
The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA
October 27-29, 2017
We are looking forward to a great program at this year’s Thirty-third Annual General Meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers' Company, in cooperation with The Mercer Museum.
About the Mercer Museum: The Mercer Museum is a history museum of everyday life in America during the 18th and 19th centuries. Henry Mercer (1856-1930) gathered the collection and constructed the Museum. The collection of some 40,000 objects documents the lives and tasks of early Americans through the tools that met their needs and wants prior to the Industrial Revolution, or about 1850. Visitors can choose their own paths through the Museum. Most of the 55 exhibit rooms and alcoves display the tools or products of an early American craft, trade or occupation.
The Mercer holds one of the finest collection of shoemaking tools in the United States. Our meeting will include a guided tour of the collection.
3:00 – 5:00 Registration at the Hampton Inn & Suites Philadelphia Montgomeryville
121 Garden Golf Boulevard, North Wales, PA 19454-1495, P: 215-412-8255 FAX: 215-412-8022
7:00 Annual Feasting and Drinking at Chambers 19
8:00 AGM for HCC members
8:30 Coffee & Doughnuts
9:00 Cory Amsler, Vice President, Collections and Interpretation, Mercer Museum/Bucks County Historical Society
Welcome orientation to the museum and discussion of the arc of Mercer's collecting activities
10:00 Shaun Pekar, Independent Historic Shoemaker
“Another Man’s Treasure: Eastfield Village and The Shoemaking Collection of Don Carpentier”
From its inception in 1971, Historic Eastfield Village would grow to become the dream-realized of Don Carpentier, a self-taught renaissance man interested in historic preservation and historic trades. Carpentier would amass over the course of his life a collection of 30 historic structures (dating from the 1790’s to the 1850’s) as well as enough tools and antiques to fill most of those buildings to the rafters. Its only in the years subsequent to his passing in 2014 that an effort to catalog his collections has begun, and thus the true depth of his collections fully realized.
10:45 Terry Burress, The Slashed Shoe
“A Comparison of 20th Century Long Work (Tall Boot) Patterns – Part Deux: Back Seamed Patterns”
Examining more than a dozen historical and contemporary publications on boot patterns, including: Pattern Cutting Made Easy - Brophy, Thomas J. Jun. (1889);
Boot and Shoe Pattern Cutting and Clicking - Hasluck, Paul N.; Editor (1906);
Introduction to The Theory and Practice of Boot and Shoe Manufacture - Plucknett, Frank (1922);
Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture - Swaysland, Edward J. C. (1926);
Boots and Shoes, There Making Manufacturing and Selling - Golding, F. Y.; Editor (1934);
Boot and Shoe Maker - Bordoli, Ernest; General Editor (1936, first printing 1935);
Textbook of Footwear Manufacture - Thornton, J. H.; Editor (1964, first printing 1953);
and other works.
11:30 Rick Roman, Romango Handmade Shoes
“How to Build a Fume Hood on a Budget and Why You Should”
I will present a plan to build a safe and effective fume hood complete with detailed plans and materials. In addition we will review common solvents encountered in shoemaking and their relative hazards.
12:15 Lunch in the Learning Center
Time to visit the Museum and Shoemaking Exhibit
1:45 Brett Walker, Independent Scholar, Journeyman Shoemaker
“St. Crispin's Lance with Braddock & Forbes: British shoes, shoemaking, and shoe-repairing on two campaigns against Duquesne.”
Combining documentation about logistical difficulties of supplying the campaigns, with the archaeological data derived from the Fort Ligonier collection—the largest collection of mid-18thc British military footwear.
2:30 Time to visit Museum and Shoemaking Exhibit
3:00 Cory Amsler, Vice President, Collections and Interpretation, Mercer Museum/Bucks
County Historical Society
Tour of the Collections Study and Storage Center with an opportunity to examine tools in the collection
7:00 Dinner at the Village Tavern
9:00 Edward Maeder, Costume & Textile Consultant, former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum
“WALK THIS WAY: Footwear from the Stuart Weitzman Collection of Historic Shoes”, due out in 2018 by Dan Giles Press, London – Mr. Maeder will explore the process creating a cohesive and informative publication about Weitzman’s extensive and eclectic collection of shoes.
9:45 Rob Welch, Apprentice Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation
“‘Curious black Ball’: Shoe Care and Cleaning in the 18th Century.”
From the commercially produced blacking cakes and balls purchased by the well to do; to the homemade waterproofing used by farmers and fishermen, the care of shoes was a universal concern. Drawing on surviving recipes and other primary sources, along with experimental archeology, this presentation will explore the methods used to condition and protect shoes and boots in the 18th century.
10:30 Michael Grundy - Accessories Design student, Fashion Institute of Technology
“It's not a prison shiv, it's a trincetto! - Making my favorite pattern / clicking knife.”
There are many styles of Trincetto (Italian for cutter or knife) available. A popular variation is essentially a brass tube holding a blade and an awl point. Michael will demonstrate how to build a simple version of this popular style using hand tools and easy to find materials. Shaping and sharpening the blade, and fitting to the cutter's hand will also be covered.
11:15 Anne Marika Verploegh Chassé - Maker of Shoes and Boots "STIEFELwerk NYC"
Adjunct Faculty at Rhode Island School of Design(RI) & Fashion Institute of Technology (NYC)
Artist, Curious Explorer
"From Pollock to Patina - Some Surface Explorations”
As a painter/artist AMVC has always been fascinated with surface design, collages, words, medical illustrations, patterns. As a shoemaker she is curious about form, texture and color, and is drawn to asymmetrical designs - like "a pair is not a pair". In the spirit of this year’s HCC "tools of the trade" theme a hands-on presentation in surface manipulations, decorative applications & finishing techniques not necessarily associated with traditional footwear.
12:00 Tom Carbone - Adjunct Faculty, BFA, College for Creative Studies
“Hand in Hand: Vintage Shoe Making Tools Revisited”
Retired now from 30 years in Advanced Vehicle Engineering and 15 years after earning his BFA from CCS in Detroit Tom has both a technical side and an artistic side that in Shoe Making especially go Hand in Hand. Tom's extensive background in Human Factors (Ergonomics) and 11 years of Shoe Making provides unique insights into the “whys” and “hows” of Vintage tools.
12:45 Close-Up Tool Inspection (In the room next to the shoemaking exhibit in the museum)
Members can inspect items identified while touring the collections in the museum
P.M. Night Owl Dinner TBD
News and announcements relevant to The Honourable Cordwainers' Company.
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