miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

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dw
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#1151 Post by dw » Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:47 am

As a bootmaker, one of the prime directives is to model the last with the notion that there will be no laces to adjust fit, firmly in mind. This means that the last has to mirror the foot pretty closely with regard to girths, in particular. Making the transition to shoes becomes a bit problematic for the following reasons:

If you make the last "exact," especially over the instep, patterning and lasting the lace up shoe...an oxford, for example...can be a challenge (or it was for me at least). If you design and last the shoe with the facings a little bit open...as they should be when the shoe is worn...the chances are high that the facings will curve away from each other on the last.

If you last the shoe with the facings closed...which presents beautifully...the shoe will never be able to be be laced tight or even snug on the foot. And as time goes by the fit over the instep will only get looser.

If you make the last slightly under the actual foot measurement, esp. in the instep area...as many makers do...the shoe can be designed and lasted with the facings closed and the result will neat and refined, with the edges of the facings straight and parallel to each other.

But then the question arises how much under should the measurements be and where? And what about models such as jodhpurs and chelseas which don't have laces or facings? You might not want to use the same last (because it is undersized)...which, to my way of thinking is too much like "guess and by golly." I like, and am always the most comfortable, when my last reflects...as accurately as possible...the actual measurements of the foot. And I like to have one last (that I can count on) for the customer, if possible.

So anyway here is a "solution"(?) that I've been playing around with for a while. Mind, it is still kind of in the "developmental" stages and what is depicted here is just the latest prototype.

Using this technique, the last can be modeled to the exact measurements of the foot and, as a consequence, a perfect fit and a perfect "look" obtained...no matter what kind of shoe is being made--oxford, derby jodhpur, chelsea , with only one last for the customer. [Of course loafers probably need a separate last simply because of the way the comb and the cone must be narrowed down and the fact that the instep of the foot (and its measurements) are virtually inconsequential.]

Again, this is a prototype and, beyond that, there may be other ways of achieving the same results. It might be just a screwy, experimental idea with only incidental significance--it may be of use for others...or it may not.

(also prevent lace imprints)

FWIW...
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DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

RodMomtazi
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#1152 Post by RodMomtazi » Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:44 pm

Hello,

Right now I am making a children's boot and Ive decided to put a buckle on the top portion of the quarter with a strap going all the way around the top portion of the ankle. I have no experience with attaching buckles to boots and am wondering if anyone could give me some advice in this area of shoemaking (pictures of how to stitch a buckle onto the upper or other pertinent and relevant advice). thank you!

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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#1153 Post by dw » Fri Jan 26, 2018 5:41 am

Esp. on children's shoes, it might be a good idea to mount the buckle in the center of a short strip if elastic and then mount the elastic to the shoe.
DWFII--HCC Member
Without "good" there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.

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