miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

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dw
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#276 Post by dw »

Jake,

The hat style is called a "Montana Peak" and the hat itself was made custom for me by a hatter over in Bozeman...so that should establish its boner fidies oncet and for all.

As for felt hats in Texas...or anywhere in the South...when did y'all become such big babies? What did they do in the late 1800's? When there wasn't any straw hats? Or put it another way....Did the South fight in chiffon uniforms? I can almost hear Scarlet now "Ah sweauh, Rett, I think Ahm just gonna mayelt!!" Image

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Tex Robin

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#277 Post by Tex Robin »

DW, Jake,

I am not sure exactly when they got started in Texas but the straw hat has been with us since the late 1700s....Hey even John Wayne wore one at the Alamo in 1836 and even in the Searchers! Not sure what year that was..Image.....TR
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#278 Post by jake »

D.W.,

I actually like that hat! It's that skinned possum you wore every day that got to me. Of course, I was "in school" at the time. Wouldn't have said nothing that might have given me a "bad" grade.

Tex,

You're right! The Duke wore that straw hat in The Searchers when he rode down to Mexico (Texas?) to look for Debbie. I guess Scar was down there for the winter.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#279 Post by dw »

Jake,

Now I'm really, really offended! That wasn't a skinned possum...that was my mustache!

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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#280 Post by cmw »

DW and Tex
Thanks for a good laugh, I needed that today.

BTW, The straw hats were used in Texas before and during the "Texas-Mexican" war.

I take myyy Hat ta yaa'll
CW
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#281 Post by dw »

BTW all,

I talked to Barbara Strickland at Upaco the other day. It turns out that the 1812 water based neoprene cement doesn't have any toxic chemicals in it at all...not even ammonia. With regards to the hazard rating of "1", Mrs. Strickland said that even water would be rated a one unless bottled from a certifiably pure source. All the rating of "1" means is that it's non-potable...don't drink it, in other words.

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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#282 Post by gcunning »

I may have misled some.
The Ivory soap in a spritz bottle will not allow the water to sour.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#283 Post by jake »

Gary,

Oh! I see! You're using that "tanted" Texas prairie water. Image
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#284 Post by gcunning »

Ok, I learned something last night. Now you guru's will laugh, I'm sure, but I have asked people and I have never received an answer.
What is an ounce of leather? I have seen it in metric but last night I saw a chart in English measure of course all the fractions in the book were reduced.
1/64 = 1 oz
2/64 = 2 oz (1/32)
3/64 = 3 oz
4/64 = 4 oz (1/16)
and so on.

I know some are thinking how stupid but I'm finally happy to know it is really tied to a specific measurement.
One last piece of trivia: I really never thought leather was perfectly staggered because metal isn't. 10-gauge metal is 3.5mm and 12gauge is 2.7mm yet 14 is 2mm doesn't make a whole lot of since.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#285 Post by paul »

Gary,
It's not a stupid question. I was given this chart when I worked at Galco Int. a few years ago, 'cause I had the same question. It's been invaluable to me. Hope it works for what you need to know.
PK
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#286 Post by gcunning »

Thanks Paul
That's what I was saying I found a chart that showed the English version in 64th graduates.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#287 Post by gcunning »

Ok
Irons are graduated by .75 but what does "iron" mean? What is it based on? Where did it come from? Why is it used and not oz?
Why did oz or Irons develop if it was based on an English measure?
T. J. Hall, III

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#288 Post by T. J. Hall, III »

I have been experimenting with a different way to channel and rabbet the insole for welting. It is unorthodox and may offend some, but thus far, it has worked well for me.

First, how I stumbled into the process. Over the years I have tried several makes and types of channelling tools, but have never been satisfied with them. I especially have trouble sharpening them and the alternative of periodically replacing the cutting element (like the one in the channel tool made by Bob Douglas) can get expensive. One day I was puttering around in the garage, glanced at a cut-off wheel hanging on the pegboard and had an idea. I found a worn down cut-off wheel (composite, woven disk 2-4 inches in diameter and .035 inches thick used to cut metal), cranked up my compressor, put the cut-off wheel in my die grinder and tried to put a channel in some scrap leather. It worked.

I have used a die grinder a lot, so over all I was comfortable using it. However, with the disk spinning at 15- 20,000 rpm, you have to be careful not to overheat the leather and it would be very easy to go all the way through the insole in a hurry. For making the tight turns aroung the toe, it helps to use the smallest diameter wheel you can find( one you have worn down to the point it is no longer useable to cut any metal).

To make the rabbet I use a cylindrical carbide burr (with a smooth top) to remove the leather between the channel and the edge. It leaves a nice, smooth shelf without having to file (my burr is a smoother cutting diamond pattern rather than a standard, single cut - I do not know if that makes any difference on leather). I considered using one of those carbide sanding cylinders for Foredom tools, but I already had a carbide burr for grinding welds and I thought the sanding cylinder might fill up with leather too quickly. I have no trouble with the carbide burr loading up with leather.

My process now is:
1. Mark the outer channel and cut it with the cut-off wheel in the die grinder.
2. Put the carbide burr in the die grinder and form the rabbet.
3. Put the cut-off wheel back in the die grinder and clean up the shoulder of the rabbet (very carefully).
4. Mark and cut the inner channel (I am now using just a single channel like DW)

I do not know why this same process could not be done with a dremel tool, although I am not familiar with all the attachments available for them. I already have a compressor and die grinder, so that is what I use.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#289 Post by jake »

Tom,

I've done it with a dremel tool. But like you say, you got to be careful of burning the leather.

By the way, how's those aligators coming along? Image
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#290 Post by dw »

I knew a fellow that used the circular lady's toplift trimmer on the finisher to cut the outside channel. He just took the guard off...or maybe he modified one and zip, zip, he was around the edge of the last with a neat even channel. Same problem though....the danger of burning.

Still, I fooled with the technique...not long, but enough to get a sense of it...and it seemed to me that with care it could be a really viable and quick method.

Too quick, too mechanical in the end, for me, though. Image

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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#291 Post by Georgene McKim »

I need some advice. I volunteered to make custom golf shoes for a charity auction. No problem making the Oxford upper, but I could really use suggestions on the best way to mount the spike sockets and to make the shoes waterproof/weather resistent. At this point I'm planning an insole, midsole and then mounting the spike sockets between the midsole and the outsole, perforating/punching the outsole to receive the screw in spikes. Using cement construction.
Anyone with experience at this who can give some tips.

As to the weather proofing, treat the shoe along the way with an extra dose at the end or just treat the finished shoe? Any help appreciated.
Thanks, Georgene
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#292 Post by walrus »

Hi Georgene
Your best bet is to use a Golf outsole with the spikes already mounted you can get them from Ruby Leather in Milwaukee WI their number is 1.800.866.7829 ask for Mike or Rick .You would have the option of cementing or using a welt construction. I have done both. Factory mounted spikes are the only way to go .IMHO
Good luck.
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#293 Post by dw »

Georgene,

I've done a lot of these in my time and a lot of hybrid logging boots--customarily with golf sockets and ice spikes instead of "corks"--too. If you are planning a glue-on job, the way Larry has suggested will work. If you intend to stitch the soles on, it would be a rare thing to find a pre-cut, pre-spiked sole that didn't create problems for the stitcher.

I always did this by hand...tracing the outline of the shoe on a piece of rubber or soling leather and then laying out and punching holes of the sockets. It is possible to get leather soles that have been treated to be waterproof. Of course this neccessitates sewing on the sole. Glue won't get it.

But I always found that with the glue and the methods available to the small shop (no press, etc.) gluing on the sole...even rubber soles...was problematic. The sockets and the spikes bring a lot of leverage to bear on the sole and the adhesive. Before you know it a small seperation has developed along the edge and dirt gets into it. That tiny crack opens a little more and a little more and...pretty soon it's all over but the cryin'. Image

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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#294 Post by Georgene McKim »

Larry, D.W. Thanks for the hints on the golf shoes. According to Mike at Ruby Leather, those pre-made golf soles were discontinued when Cat Paw was bought by Vibram. Think I'm changing my donation to a pair of custom-made CASUAL shoes!
Thanks,
Georgene
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#295 Post by plugnickle »

>Larry Waller posted the link to the ventilation >hoods, do a search for his postings.
>
>good luck, looks fun (I mean that),
>
>Erick

Thank you for the heads up on the vent table, Erick. I didn't recall seeing this discussion. (Frank provided the description and illustration for the table.) I have been concerned about pulling the conditioned air out of the building, and this seems like a viable solution. A damper in the vent pipe would do to keep out the drafts. I will probably install a fan to pull and circulate outside air into the booth for when I am using a sprayer or air brush. A "duct boosting fan" would probably work.

Steve
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#296 Post by erickgeer »

If you have access to a goetz catalog, they have nifty pictures of fume tables, that may get someone going on a DIY project. One of them is very similar to what Frank Jones posted a diagram of.
The posting from Larry seemed like a basic fume cabinet that didn't have any of the moving parts in it - I guess you could attach any type of filter and vacuum system you wanted to it.

The link is still valid, here is the link Larry posted:
http://www.labextreme.com/detail.cfm?autonumber=39693

Erick
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#297 Post by das »

I saw a cool jerry-rigged fume thingie.... You know toluene cements, like Barge, etc. fumes sink--they're heavier than air. A buddy in NYC had this big BBQ grille thing set up in the ship, with dryer vent pipe and a fan underneath. He did all his cement applying, curing, and drying on the "Barby". The fumes I guess got sucked down the hole in the bottom and vented outside. I'd want a spark-free fan motor just in case Image
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#298 Post by uncle_bob »

Just came down from the mountain, and thought I'd say hello to all! Al, DW and company
Regards,
Uncle bob
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Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#299 Post by dw »

Hey Bob! Good to hear from you! What have you been up to all this time? Still got your shop? Not wearing a hair-shirt are ya?

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uncle_bob

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

#300 Post by uncle_bob »

It's me, no shirts, no shoes, and no service!
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