Tools of the Trade
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jask
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- Full Name: jask
Re: Tools of the Trade
I used some of the orthosource matterhorn sheet material to redo the faces of a patter vice and it has held up very well.
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romango
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Eric,
I love it! I see the vacuum hose in the pics. Does that mean you are using power sanders?
I love it! I see the vacuum hose in the pics. Does that mean you are using power sanders?
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erickgeer
Re: Tools of the Trade
DW,
The heel strip is working great, so no need to try anything different now. I've not seen the specific cream cow leather, but what I picture in my head might be too squishy when layered up.
To clarify about making lasts- I make up original designed lasts (with more or less success- I'm learning) and have them copied. I'm only recently trying to use wood that is hard enough to use that won't deform too much to be copied after tweaking fit.
-I don't recommend making a last out of soft wood and having to wait 1-2 months to get a copy back that may or may not work [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]
Jask,
Is the matterhorn non-marking?
Rick,
On the other side of the bench I've set up a variable speed grinder with sanding drums- its more appropriate for small items and finish sanding. It's good for feathering build ups and I plan to use it to help sculpt heels.
Erick
The heel strip is working great, so no need to try anything different now. I've not seen the specific cream cow leather, but what I picture in my head might be too squishy when layered up.
To clarify about making lasts- I make up original designed lasts (with more or less success- I'm learning) and have them copied. I'm only recently trying to use wood that is hard enough to use that won't deform too much to be copied after tweaking fit.
-I don't recommend making a last out of soft wood and having to wait 1-2 months to get a copy back that may or may not work [img]http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/sad.gif"%20ALT="sad[/img]
Jask,
Is the matterhorn non-marking?
Rick,
On the other side of the bench I've set up a variable speed grinder with sanding drums- its more appropriate for small items and finish sanding. It's good for feathering build ups and I plan to use it to help sculpt heels.
Erick
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lancepryor
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Erick:
Looks good. FWIW, Terry chalks up the leather to improve the grip. You might try it with the plastic lasts to see if it helps.
What wood are you now using for your new lasts, and where are you sourcing wood that is dimensionally large enough for carving lasts? Do you think this wood is hard enough to use for actually making shoes, or only hard enough to use as the source for copies?
Lance
Looks good. FWIW, Terry chalks up the leather to improve the grip. You might try it with the plastic lasts to see if it helps.
What wood are you now using for your new lasts, and where are you sourcing wood that is dimensionally large enough for carving lasts? Do you think this wood is hard enough to use for actually making shoes, or only hard enough to use as the source for copies?
Lance
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erickgeer
Re: Tools of the Trade
Lance,
I'll give chalk a try- is it just the same chalk as pool players and athletes use?
I'm not sure what particular type of maple I have- It's not nearly as hard/dense as I'd have liked. I won't know for sure if it's hard enough to use until I finish up the model I'm working on at the moment. Fortunately it's not nearly as soft as the poplar I was using. They aren't huge, but I got blocks in 4.5"X 4.25"X 14"- you could do a middle range size on it. I don't have the lumber mill info on me here.
One of the problems I was having with the poplar, was it would expand/contract really bad while traveling to different climates- I hope this time will be better.
Erick
I'll give chalk a try- is it just the same chalk as pool players and athletes use?
I'm not sure what particular type of maple I have- It's not nearly as hard/dense as I'd have liked. I won't know for sure if it's hard enough to use until I finish up the model I'm working on at the moment. Fortunately it's not nearly as soft as the poplar I was using. They aren't huge, but I got blocks in 4.5"X 4.25"X 14"- you could do a middle range size on it. I don't have the lumber mill info on me here.
One of the problems I was having with the poplar, was it would expand/contract really bad while traveling to different climates- I hope this time will be better.
Erick
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lancepryor
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Erick:
re: the chalk. IIRC, it was just plain sticks of chalk, like they use in school. You can buy a 10-pack for like a dollar at Target or perhaps Staples.
If you can let me know about the source for the maple blocks when you get a chance, that would be great. Also, could you send me an e-mail with info about where you get the lasts copied, along with any other information you deem to be pertinent in that regard?
I'm working on a last right now, but I am using a laminated block made of some 1 inch wide hard rock maple.
Thanks,
Lance
re: the chalk. IIRC, it was just plain sticks of chalk, like they use in school. You can buy a 10-pack for like a dollar at Target or perhaps Staples.
If you can let me know about the source for the maple blocks when you get a chance, that would be great. Also, could you send me an e-mail with info about where you get the lasts copied, along with any other information you deem to be pertinent in that regard?
I'm working on a last right now, but I am using a laminated block made of some 1 inch wide hard rock maple.
Thanks,
Lance
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amuckart
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Hi all,
I've just the other day acquired a splitter from the guy who's selling me a bunch of shoe machinery (including a *second* Junker & Ruh, complete with flat harness plate!)
It's a 6" hand-cranked job, marked "H. Sørensen". It's Danish, but appears to be a copy of a very early (pre model 30) Landis, according to someone on leatherworker.net who found a very similar looking Landis on ebay.
The questions below are mostly reposted from what I wrote on the other forum, but I'm putting them on here too because I'd like input from people who use these for splitting soles etc and and so if there are good answers they'll end up in the archives here too. Sorry this is a bit of an epic, I've got lots of questions about it
I've got the blade plenty sharp (though I'm still working out the right bevel angle so it stays sharp) and run some scraps through it to test it. I can get it to split down to paper thin Ok or just shave the tiniest amount off the bottom of the piece, but not much in between.
I've stripped it and put it back together again so I have a good idea of how it works mechanically, I've just never seen or used one before so I'm not sure what the best way to set up and tune it is.
I'm the kind of guy who wants to fully understand his machines so I can make sure they're set up right and fix them when they go wrong, but I'm pretty (ok, completely) new to mechanised leather working so please don't assume I know anything about anything when it comes to machinery.
I'm trying to work out:
Here is my understanding of the theory of operation. I've just derived this from looking at the machine as it goes back together, I have no experience with using these at all, so please correct me if this is wrong (or confirm it's correct )
There are two rollers, a smooth upper and a grooved lower roller that feed the material through onto a blade positioned between them.
The blade is fixed relative to the chassis and the upper, smooth, roller adjusts up and down in the chassis relative to the blade edge to control the thickness of leather you get out of the machine. This also affects the amount of pressure on the work as it is fed through.
The blade is adjustable for height via set screws in the blade carrier that bear on the bolts holding the blade carrier to the chassis. These are there to level the blade and fine-tune the height relative to the lower roller and aren't intended as regular points of adjustment
The lower, grooved, roller does most of the feeding of the work. It has a fixed maximum height but rides on springs so thicker leather will push it down allowing the machine to take a thicker cut.
The maximum height of the lower roller is fixed by nuts on threaded posts extending from the bottom of the lower roller bearing blocks that control how high the springs can push it in the chassis.
The spring tension on the lower roller is controlled by screws that bear on the bottom spring plate. These don't move the lower roller at all, they just control the amount of force it takes to displace it, and therefore how hard the leather being fed is squashed between the two rollers for a given feed height.
Does the lower roller height normally get set once then left alone, with the screw adjustments being to level it rather than adjust its height for different bits of work? It seems to be height-adjustable via nuts on the threaded pins that come from the bottom of the lower roller bearings, through the casing, and bear on the plates on top of the lower springs.
When I got it it had some obviously non-original nylock nuts on there that were so tight it unscrewed the pin from the lower roller bearing rather than adjusting up and down. I've since cleaned the thread and put loctite on where the pin screws into the lower roller bearing block and replaced the nuts with non-locking ones. There wasn't enough space to get two nuts in to permanently lock the height of the lower roller as I think is depicted in the landis manual.
There's a square-headed screw right at the bottom with a pointed end that bears on the lower spring plate.
I am assuming the blade goes in bevel-up? it was in bevel-up when I got the machine but I can see how it could also work bevel down and having it bevel up means the angle of attack is dependent on the angle the blade is sharpened at. That's an issue for wood planes, which is the closest analogue to this I can think of, but probably isn't with leather. Here's a couple of pictures of where I've got it set relative to the lower roller at the moment. The blade stops are quite badly chipped and the blade shows signs of having been screwed up tight against them before but the main edge is Ok. In the second one I've just stuck a bit of leather under the blade to make the edge more obvious since it's shiny and hard to photograph.
The biggest issue I'm having is that the large drive gear is attached to the upper roller so it moves up and down with the upper roller as you adjust the machine. This is fine, except that the gear cover that bolts to the side of the machine doesn't have enough space to allow for the full travel of the gear. If I set it so it's just about touching the bottom of the cover at the lowest extent of its travel it only adjusts about 5/8ths of the way up before the top of the gear hits the top of the inside of the gear cover. If I take the cover off I can get a full range of adjustment out of it. Given the damage evident on the inside of the gear cover I don't think this is a result of my having put the machine back together wrong.
Here's some pictures showing the clearance, and the damage inside the gear cover caused by the big gear grinding on it.
Is this normal for this style of machine (which I struggle to believe) or have I or a previous owner, done something daft with the way its set up? I can only see one way the gears can possibly go together so I don't think that's wrong.
Do the model 30 Landis splitters do this too? I'm wondering if the machine is really intended to be set up to do a fairly narrow range of work, but do it very accurately, and then left alone, with something more easily adjustable used for a wider but less precise range of work.
Thanks.
I've just the other day acquired a splitter from the guy who's selling me a bunch of shoe machinery (including a *second* Junker & Ruh, complete with flat harness plate!)
It's a 6" hand-cranked job, marked "H. Sørensen". It's Danish, but appears to be a copy of a very early (pre model 30) Landis, according to someone on leatherworker.net who found a very similar looking Landis on ebay.
The questions below are mostly reposted from what I wrote on the other forum, but I'm putting them on here too because I'd like input from people who use these for splitting soles etc and and so if there are good answers they'll end up in the archives here too. Sorry this is a bit of an epic, I've got lots of questions about it
I've got the blade plenty sharp (though I'm still working out the right bevel angle so it stays sharp) and run some scraps through it to test it. I can get it to split down to paper thin Ok or just shave the tiniest amount off the bottom of the piece, but not much in between.
I've stripped it and put it back together again so I have a good idea of how it works mechanically, I've just never seen or used one before so I'm not sure what the best way to set up and tune it is.
I'm the kind of guy who wants to fully understand his machines so I can make sure they're set up right and fix them when they go wrong, but I'm pretty (ok, completely) new to mechanised leather working so please don't assume I know anything about anything when it comes to machinery.
I'm trying to work out:
- what the proper relationship of the blade to the centreline of the lower roller is;
- how high blade should be set above the lower roller normally (do I need a set of feeler gauges for this?);
- what the various lower roller adjustments do, and when/why they should be adjusted;
- what the blade height adjustments do, and why you adjust them;
- whether it is normal for the gear cover to interfere with the top roller adjustment on this type of splitter or if there's something weird with my one;
- what range of thicknesses this type of splitter can produce; and
- whether it works better with chrome or veg-tan.
Here is my understanding of the theory of operation. I've just derived this from looking at the machine as it goes back together, I have no experience with using these at all, so please correct me if this is wrong (or confirm it's correct )
There are two rollers, a smooth upper and a grooved lower roller that feed the material through onto a blade positioned between them.
The blade is fixed relative to the chassis and the upper, smooth, roller adjusts up and down in the chassis relative to the blade edge to control the thickness of leather you get out of the machine. This also affects the amount of pressure on the work as it is fed through.
The blade is adjustable for height via set screws in the blade carrier that bear on the bolts holding the blade carrier to the chassis. These are there to level the blade and fine-tune the height relative to the lower roller and aren't intended as regular points of adjustment
The lower, grooved, roller does most of the feeding of the work. It has a fixed maximum height but rides on springs so thicker leather will push it down allowing the machine to take a thicker cut.
The maximum height of the lower roller is fixed by nuts on threaded posts extending from the bottom of the lower roller bearing blocks that control how high the springs can push it in the chassis.
The spring tension on the lower roller is controlled by screws that bear on the bottom spring plate. These don't move the lower roller at all, they just control the amount of force it takes to displace it, and therefore how hard the leather being fed is squashed between the two rollers for a given feed height.
Does the lower roller height normally get set once then left alone, with the screw adjustments being to level it rather than adjust its height for different bits of work? It seems to be height-adjustable via nuts on the threaded pins that come from the bottom of the lower roller bearings, through the casing, and bear on the plates on top of the lower springs.
When I got it it had some obviously non-original nylock nuts on there that were so tight it unscrewed the pin from the lower roller bearing rather than adjusting up and down. I've since cleaned the thread and put loctite on where the pin screws into the lower roller bearing block and replaced the nuts with non-locking ones. There wasn't enough space to get two nuts in to permanently lock the height of the lower roller as I think is depicted in the landis manual.
There's a square-headed screw right at the bottom with a pointed end that bears on the lower spring plate.
I am assuming the blade goes in bevel-up? it was in bevel-up when I got the machine but I can see how it could also work bevel down and having it bevel up means the angle of attack is dependent on the angle the blade is sharpened at. That's an issue for wood planes, which is the closest analogue to this I can think of, but probably isn't with leather. Here's a couple of pictures of where I've got it set relative to the lower roller at the moment. The blade stops are quite badly chipped and the blade shows signs of having been screwed up tight against them before but the main edge is Ok. In the second one I've just stuck a bit of leather under the blade to make the edge more obvious since it's shiny and hard to photograph.
The biggest issue I'm having is that the large drive gear is attached to the upper roller so it moves up and down with the upper roller as you adjust the machine. This is fine, except that the gear cover that bolts to the side of the machine doesn't have enough space to allow for the full travel of the gear. If I set it so it's just about touching the bottom of the cover at the lowest extent of its travel it only adjusts about 5/8ths of the way up before the top of the gear hits the top of the inside of the gear cover. If I take the cover off I can get a full range of adjustment out of it. Given the damage evident on the inside of the gear cover I don't think this is a result of my having put the machine back together wrong.
Here's some pictures showing the clearance, and the damage inside the gear cover caused by the big gear grinding on it.
Is this normal for this style of machine (which I struggle to believe) or have I or a previous owner, done something daft with the way its set up? I can only see one way the gears can possibly go together so I don't think that's wrong.
Do the model 30 Landis splitters do this too? I'm wondering if the machine is really intended to be set up to do a fairly narrow range of work, but do it very accurately, and then left alone, with something more easily adjustable used for a wider but less precise range of work.
Thanks.
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lancepryor
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Alaisdair:
I have a short user manual for the Landis 30 splitter which I will e-mail you. I don't have time to read your whole post right now, but on the Landis a number of the adjustments are factory set and not supposed to be adjusted.
I look forward to seeing what other folks have to say about the splitter, since I need to try to make some improvements to mine!
Lance
I have a short user manual for the Landis 30 splitter which I will e-mail you. I don't have time to read your whole post right now, but on the Landis a number of the adjustments are factory set and not supposed to be adjusted.
I look forward to seeing what other folks have to say about the splitter, since I need to try to make some improvements to mine!
Lance
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hh1341
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 9:00 am
- Full Name: Carl Corbeau
- Location: Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
Re: Tools of the Trade
Suspect this tool is for harness making.
Ground flat on the bottom and a curved top surface.
Edge is sharp.
Could it be a fid? Seems a bit sharp for a fid.
Ground flat on the bottom and a curved top surface.
Edge is sharp.
Could it be a fid? Seems a bit sharp for a fid.
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hh1341
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- Full Name: Carl Corbeau
- Location: Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
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hh1341
- Posts: 6
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- Full Name: Carl Corbeau
- Location: Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
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dw
- Seanchaidh
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Carl,
I don't think you will ever see another one like it. I think it is something that was either modified by a maker for some specific job or is a purpose made tool in a discard handle.
I make any number of my own tools--I have hammers that fit my hand and do jobs that I want them to do but to get them I had to modify other hammers. So mine are unique...to the despair of some of my students...including one with a completely remodeled head.
Similarly with awls, awl handles, pincers and trimming tools. I've even used the screw hardware from broken screw hafts and turned new wooden handles to accommodate that hardware.
I think that's why you didn't get much response on your initial inquiry--nobody knows what it is.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
I don't think you will ever see another one like it. I think it is something that was either modified by a maker for some specific job or is a purpose made tool in a discard handle.
I make any number of my own tools--I have hammers that fit my hand and do jobs that I want them to do but to get them I had to modify other hammers. So mine are unique...to the despair of some of my students...including one with a completely remodeled head.
Similarly with awls, awl handles, pincers and trimming tools. I've even used the screw hardware from broken screw hafts and turned new wooden handles to accommodate that hardware.
I think that's why you didn't get much response on your initial inquiry--nobody knows what it is.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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paul
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Re: Tools of the Trade
"So mine are unique...to the despair of some of my students...including one with a completely remodeled head."
So DW, are you refering to me with the remodeled head? You talkin' 'bout me?
Paul
Carl,
My first skive knife was like that. I bought it at a tool sale at one of the International Leathercraft shows a few years back. It looked like a putty knife, but it had a very keen edge on it. I was intrigued so I bought it.
Of course I had to be working the edge all the time, because I think it was a putty knife! But it was just right for my hand.
A couple of years ago, I had Bob Beard of Pro Series Tools make me one with the same contoured edge. It's my new favorite.
Keep yuor eyes open for chances to use it, and your awl could become just like that.
Best Regards,
Paul
So DW, are you refering to me with the remodeled head? You talkin' 'bout me?
Paul
Carl,
My first skive knife was like that. I bought it at a tool sale at one of the International Leathercraft shows a few years back. It looked like a putty knife, but it had a very keen edge on it. I was intrigued so I bought it.
Of course I had to be working the edge all the time, because I think it was a putty knife! But it was just right for my hand.
A couple of years ago, I had Bob Beard of Pro Series Tools make me one with the same contoured edge. It's my new favorite.
Keep yuor eyes open for chances to use it, and your awl could become just like that.
Best Regards,
Paul
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Paul,
See, I'm no English teacher but I think the paired ellipsis (the "..." ) makes the bit about the "despair of some of my students" independent of any connection to a remodeled head. So, even if you've gotten a haircut recently it's the hammer head that's been remodeled.
On the other hand if you've not made yourself a pegging hammer similar to mine you may very well be in despair.
So am I talkin' 'bout you? Maybe yes, maybe no.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
See, I'm no English teacher but I think the paired ellipsis (the "..." ) makes the bit about the "despair of some of my students" independent of any connection to a remodeled head. So, even if you've gotten a haircut recently it's the hammer head that's been remodeled.
On the other hand if you've not made yourself a pegging hammer similar to mine you may very well be in despair.
So am I talkin' 'bout you? Maybe yes, maybe no.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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large_shoemaker_at_large
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Carl
Just thinking. May be a lacing awl? Or maybe for "tooling leather" akin to saddle/bag making.
My .02 cents
Regards
Brendan
Just thinking. May be a lacing awl? Or maybe for "tooling leather" akin to saddle/bag making.
My .02 cents
Regards
Brendan
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paul
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Re: Tools of the Trade
That's just it see.
I haven't had a hair cut in a year! So I almost took that personal.
But knowin' you'd not offend, and yet do rather enjoy the clever turn of phrase, I'll give you the benifit...
Now regarding pegging hammers, I'm quiet fond of my little sweetheart.
This was a gift from my Dutch host in Rotterdam, when I spent two weeks with him back in the 80's.
And it only weighs about 12 ounces.
I just wish whoever's doin' it would stop bending the pegs.
Paul
I haven't had a hair cut in a year! So I almost took that personal.
But knowin' you'd not offend, and yet do rather enjoy the clever turn of phrase, I'll give you the benifit...
Now regarding pegging hammers, I'm quiet fond of my little sweetheart.
This was a gift from my Dutch host in Rotterdam, when I spent two weeks with him back in the 80's.
And it only weighs about 12 ounces.
I just wish whoever's doin' it would stop bending the pegs.
Paul
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Paul,
I'll see your two and raise you four!
I have hammers...lots and lots of hammers. Here's my essential set. (Sorry for the poor quality of the photo.)
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
I'll see your two and raise you four!
I have hammers...lots and lots of hammers. Here's my essential set. (Sorry for the poor quality of the photo.)
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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lancepryor
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Okay, back to the topic of last knives.
As mentioned some while back, I have been interested in getting a last knife. I have supplied drawings and specifications for a last knife to Barr Quarton (http://www.barrtools.com/), a highly regarded maker of hand forged tools. Erick Geer Wilcox and I would each be interested in ordering one, but Barr has indicated he needs to get an order for 5 pieces before he will be willing to make them.
So, is anyone else interested? I believe the price would be in the range of what Barr charges for his large draw knives, though I am waiting on confirmation of this. If we can't get the necessary orders, Erick and I will likely go elsewhere, though I do think Barr would be a great solution.
Also, just FYI, Edwin Hale and I have chatted about this, and he is seeing if Colin Barnsley can have some made, in the 'proper, old fashioned way.' This may be a better knife than what Barr will make, but the price is likely to be 5 - 7X what Barr seems to want to charge, even if Colin's knife comes to fruition.
Edwin is of the opinion that a knife made by Barr or anyone of similar background will not be satisfactory, and I certainly can't promise that Edwin is wrong. However, I believe that such a knife could be satisfactory for reasonable volumes of production such as any here are likely to want to pursue (again, though, no promises).
If anyone is interested, please speak up!
Lance
As mentioned some while back, I have been interested in getting a last knife. I have supplied drawings and specifications for a last knife to Barr Quarton (http://www.barrtools.com/), a highly regarded maker of hand forged tools. Erick Geer Wilcox and I would each be interested in ordering one, but Barr has indicated he needs to get an order for 5 pieces before he will be willing to make them.
So, is anyone else interested? I believe the price would be in the range of what Barr charges for his large draw knives, though I am waiting on confirmation of this. If we can't get the necessary orders, Erick and I will likely go elsewhere, though I do think Barr would be a great solution.
Also, just FYI, Edwin Hale and I have chatted about this, and he is seeing if Colin Barnsley can have some made, in the 'proper, old fashioned way.' This may be a better knife than what Barr will make, but the price is likely to be 5 - 7X what Barr seems to want to charge, even if Colin's knife comes to fruition.
Edwin is of the opinion that a knife made by Barr or anyone of similar background will not be satisfactory, and I certainly can't promise that Edwin is wrong. However, I believe that such a knife could be satisfactory for reasonable volumes of production such as any here are likely to want to pursue (again, though, no promises).
If anyone is interested, please speak up!
Lance
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mrt
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- Full Name: Matthew Thomas
- Location: Boulder, CO, United States
Re: Tools of the Trade
Hi,
I'm new to post here. The Colloquy has been such a great resource I had no qualms about sending in my dues : )
I'm looking to get tools for cutting the holdfast. Previous posts mention the American Channel knife and French edger. Also, I'm including an image from one of Marcell's videos and the tool he employed makes the cutting look quite efficient.
Are these readily available items?
Any suggestions on where/how to get such items would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matthew
I'm new to post here. The Colloquy has been such a great resource I had no qualms about sending in my dues : )
I'm looking to get tools for cutting the holdfast. Previous posts mention the American Channel knife and French edger. Also, I'm including an image from one of Marcell's videos and the tool he employed makes the cutting look quite efficient.
Are these readily available items?
Any suggestions on where/how to get such items would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Matthew
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lancepryor
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- Full Name: lance pryor
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Matthew:
Welcome.
There are a number of ways to cut the holdfast/outside feather. There is a 'Tina' brand knife made specifically for this purpose. I bought mine some years ago from Euro International in Florida; it is also sold via Goetz, so any Goetz dealer should be able to order one for you.
Let us know what you come up with.
Lance
Welcome.
There are a number of ways to cut the holdfast/outside feather. There is a 'Tina' brand knife made specifically for this purpose. I bought mine some years ago from Euro International in Florida; it is also sold via Goetz, so any Goetz dealer should be able to order one for you.
Let us know what you come up with.
Lance
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djulan
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- Full Name: David Ulan
Re: Tools of the Trade
Hi Lance,
Are we talking the last knife with a ring on one end to attach to the eye hook in the cutting table and a handle on the other end? If so, I am interested at any reasonable price.
David
Are we talking the last knife with a ring on one end to attach to the eye hook in the cutting table and a handle on the other end? If so, I am interested at any reasonable price.
David
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djulan
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- Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 9:39 am
- Full Name: David Ulan
Re: Tools of the Trade
Thanks Erick,
Count me in for one of these! And you and Lance can contact me via my personal email if necessary with specifics.
Thanks I look forward to followup.
David
Count me in for one of these! And you and Lance can contact me via my personal email if necessary with specifics.
Thanks I look forward to followup.
David
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erickgeer
Re: Tools of the Trade
Great! Hopefully Lance hears back from them soon about the price and we have enough interest get the order.
Erick
Erick
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dw
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Re: Tools of the Trade
Matthew,
Many of these tools are available only on Ebay as vintage tools...and sometimes you pay a premium for them. You also have to know what you're looking for and what you're looking at because all too often the seller doesn't know the name of the tool and/or doesn't know or care if the tool is in usable condition.
I have bought several American Channel knives on Ebay and I even got a couple of nice Barnsley feather knives off Ebay.
But you can cut your channel with a groover or even a exacto-knife with the tip of the blade barely extended. You just need a divider to mark the line on which you'll cut.
And the Barnsley feather knives are great...but they are so similar to a French skive with one guard cut off that I would probably not bother to get a dedicated feather knife. I have the one that Goetz offers...have had it much longer than the Barnsley...and I have to say I like the English tool a lot better.
If you are making a rabbeted feather, you can start it with a groover...cutting for depth...and finish it with either a feather knife or even a welt knife.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
Many of these tools are available only on Ebay as vintage tools...and sometimes you pay a premium for them. You also have to know what you're looking for and what you're looking at because all too often the seller doesn't know the name of the tool and/or doesn't know or care if the tool is in usable condition.
I have bought several American Channel knives on Ebay and I even got a couple of nice Barnsley feather knives off Ebay.
But you can cut your channel with a groover or even a exacto-knife with the tip of the blade barely extended. You just need a divider to mark the line on which you'll cut.
And the Barnsley feather knives are great...but they are so similar to a French skive with one guard cut off that I would probably not bother to get a dedicated feather knife. I have the one that Goetz offers...have had it much longer than the Barnsley...and I have to say I like the English tool a lot better.
If you are making a rabbeted feather, you can start it with a groover...cutting for depth...and finish it with either a feather knife or even a welt knife.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member