Tools of the Trade

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Eisele's Custom Boots

Re: Tools of the Trade

#376 Post by Eisele's Custom Boots »

I recently purchased some tools on E-bay and received a tool called a break. Would some one please tell me what this tool is used for.
Kevin
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#377 Post by D.A. Saguto--HCC »

If it's what it ought to be--a "break" or "peg-break", is wooden handle with a long steel rod that ends in a convex oval-shaped pad bit, that has course teeth running across its face. It's for reaching down inside of a boot with a pegged-on sole, and breaking and rasping the peg points smooth.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#378 Post by Eisele's Custom Boots »

I looked it up in a catalog and the full name is a heel break.
Kevin
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#379 Post by D.A. Saguto--HCC »

I'm wondering then if it's not a "seat breaker"? A short wooden handle with a roughly "T" shaped steel head maybe 2" long and 1/2" thick. The working face has a single row of course teeth going across, with a raised [or adjustable] guard or fence along one side.

If this is it, the original intended purpose it was designed was to "break" the seat stitches around the outside of a stitched boot-rand [Devlin outlines this procedure in 1839/40]. Basically, after you've stitched the heel to the rand with the "square" stitching awl, the "breaker" was used like a rasp to rough-up the stitches on the sides of the rand so they could be loaded with ink, wax, gum, etc, and ironed down so you couldn't see that there were stitches all around. Kind of a weird idea, and seeing that the tool long out-lived the initial purpose [stitched rands were pretty old fashioned by 1860], it must have become just a handy aggressive rasp with a "safe" edge for the heel-seat or something.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#380 Post by Eisele's Custom Boots »

Thankyou, You described the tool to a tee. If anyone has a use for a new one, I've got one.
Thanks again,
Kevin
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#381 Post by dw »

For those interested in packers, you may remember that some time ago I posted a photo of my tongue crimping device (in this topic...probably in the archives). Thought a photo of a crimped tongue might go down good.
2408.jpg


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Re: Tools of the Trade

#382 Post by gaid »

D.W.

Nice tongue! I am employed by an small shoe factory on a project basis for the moment. They want me to help them with design and to introduce them to new techniques. One of the things they have problems with is how to crimp the tongue on boots like the packer. I will show them your pic as an example of how a tongue should be crimped. Do you trim it before or after sewing it on?
Thank's......................Janne
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#383 Post by jake »

Made a tool today that I thought might be of interest to folks. Let me point out that this is not my own creation, but a replica of D.W. Frommer's "free-hand" knife (I believe that's what he called it).

This tool is used for cutting the inside channel on your insole to prepare for inseaming. The blade is held at an angle. I made this one from a hoof knife who had seen better days.
2575.jpg


The red arrow points to the shoulder which limits the depth of the cut. It will run along the surface of the insole. The blue arrow points to the length of the blade, which in turn will determine the length of the cut (diagonally).
2576.jpg


Also notice the mat the knife is sitting on. It's a rubber mat used with circular or rotary knifes. This makes an excellent cutting surface to click out your fine leather components. It's self healing and also protects your edge on your clicker knife. Makes an edge go so much further!

Adios, Hub
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#384 Post by dw »

Jake,

That's a good looking knife. Sounds silly...but really, I mean it. I especially like the way you used the hoof trimmer to start. It looks like it would be very comfortable to use.

Just a small disclaimer though, I didn't invent the knife, or the shape, or anything about it. I got all that from Mike Ives.

Funny thing is though, after using this kind of knife, and making my inside channel that way for nearly twenty years, I've stopped doing it that way. I think it weakens the inseam and makes inseaming just that little bit harder...and for no apparent benefit.

If I were still channeling that way, though...I'd copy your knife right down to the last degree. I like it.

As for the cutting mat....how large a mat can you buy? And how thick is it? I had a student in a little while ago and I kept having to tell him "if you feel a scratching on top of your foot, you're pressing too hard (while cutting)." I use a 3/8 inch polyurethane slab and I swear he was burying the blade of a little clicker knife half way.

I like the fact that your rubber pad is self healing. Especially on new PU slabs a previous deep cut can diveret tha point of your blade...often with disasterous results. Once you've been using them for a while, however, the slab gets like end grain on wood--so many previous cuts, in so many different directions that the knife never tracks.

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Re: Tools of the Trade

#385 Post by paul »

Jake, good example of doin' for yourself.

DW,
Now you have to tell us just what you are doin' to channel your insoles. This is obviously one of components that challenges the novice. I get by I guess, but feel like I need a better tool for the job, or to hold my mouth differently, or somethin'.

I use the cutting board Jake is refering to. They seem to last a good length of time and keep the bench neat. The grid is even helpful often for squaring things up.

PK
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#386 Post by dw »

Paul,

Well...to start let me demonstrate a principle. Take two pieces of vamp leather of reasonably good quality. Cut an inch long slit in from the edge on each piece. Grasp the edges of your cut on the first piece, and try to rip the lather. Chances are good you will be able to rip it with your bare hands except on the very best quality and thickest pieces. Now go to the second piece. Before you try to rip it, punch a hole at the end of the slit. Chances are you not be able to rip that piece even if you resort to plyers.

Now let's cut an angled slit into the flesh side of a piece of insole leather. Thats precisely what we are doing with the "freehand knife." When we run our awl into the very end of that slit and take a stitch, and then tighten it down, effectively we are forcing the slit apart just as surely as if we were trying to rip it apart as we did with the vamp leather. I believe this contributes to a weaker inseam and even eventual break out of the holdfast.

What is more the angle slit gets progressively nearer the grain surface of the insole the closer it gets to the end of the cut. This too, contributes to the eventual breakout of the holdfast due to the extreme conditions inside the boot and repeated wetting and drying.

What do I do? I simply cut a very shallow groove--only deep enough to leave the inseam threads level or just slightly below the surface of the flesh side of the insole. My awl blade runs from the bottom of that groove (which is very nearly full thickness of the insole) to the inside corner of the rabbetted feather. Because my channel is a groove, it is similar in effect and well as function to the rip-stop hole we punched on the piece of vamping leather. It resists tear out. And because my inseam is so far (relatively) from the grain surface of the insole, it it is less vulnerable to the extremes of moisture and temperature of the inner boot.

As an added benefit to all of this...since I hole my insole before lasting...I can clearly see, and space, the awl as it passes through the holdfast--controlling both the length and direction of each inseam stitch.

As I said, I did it the other way for near on to 20 years and was, frankly a bit fearful, when I first tried this way. But I've never looked back. In my mind it is, in every respect, superior to the way I was taught.
2577.jpg


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Re: Tools of the Trade

#387 Post by jake »

Dee-Dubb,

Thank You! Mine is 18" x 24". Go to http://www.enasco.com and check item #9705926 ($16.95). I've also found one that's 24" x36" for $38.50 http://www.newarkdress.com item #N87A. They're called "olfa cutting mats. Mine is about 1/8" thick. I agree totally with your comments concerning the poly boards. This YOU WILL LIKE!

One comment concerning the diagonally slit method of cutting your inside channel. After cutting and opening the slit, I plan on taking a groover and grooving the end of the cut. That way you have your rip stop, your thread is protected, and you're not left with a slight ditch in your insole. It seems like I always make my ditch too wide and deep.

Keep in mind, I may go back to your method, but I've always wanted to make this tool to help me control the cut.

Paul,

Thanks for your kind remarks. What's extremely nice about this knife, is the comfort of the handle. Curved exactly right to fit perfectly in the palm of your hand.

A tip of the hat goes to Mike Ives for this tool.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#388 Post by dw »

Jake,

Thanks for the 'net addresses. I'll keep it in mind. My poly is just now starting to get good, though. And I've got a whole 3'x6' cutting table covered with it. Cost several hunderd dollars when new.

You hit the nail on the head with your comment about the "ditch" in the insole. It's real important to keep that groove shallow. I got to the point that I was more just scoring the surface of the insole than grooving it (we all tend to overcompensate...first one way, then the other, before we get it right). In fact it would probably be better to do just that...score the surface just so you know where to start your awl than cut the groove too deep. 'Course you can always lay in a strip of leather to fill that groove especially if you channel the groove out a bit. I've seen that done and the stitches are really well protected that way too.

But to tell you the truth, in all my time making boots, I repaired my share too. And I've never, ever, seen an inseam that was damaged or in jeopardy from being too close to the flesh surface of the insole, unless a customer walked such a hole in his boots that he ended up walking a hole in the insole as well. At which point, nothing you do is gonna protect the inseam. An insole liner is actually as much a safeguard as anything simply because you make it out of something like creme cow, not only is is a bit more resilient than the veg tan outsole but the customer suddenly sees this patch of "white" and knows there's something wrong. Usually, upon closer inspection, the customer realizes he's got to get his soles repaired. And if he doesn't, then you mights well abandon all hope for the boots regardless.

On the other hand, I got to tell you I've seen so many insoles...beyond count...more than I care to remember...that have broken out along the inseam when the insole was channeled with the knife. That, as much as anything is what made me change. There's a lot to be said for never doing shoe repair...I'm enjoying the heck out of that state of affairs now. But I wouldn't trade the experience and knowledge I have from all those years, looking at all the many and various ways people can put a boot or shoe together and all the ways it can be botched. Taught me a lot about what lasts and what doesn't last. What holds up under real working conditions and what doesn't.

But I'm not here to sell anybody...just to compare notes....And if the truth be known, even with the re-writes, I still describe and recommend, in my books, the freehand knife method. I always felt a bit of pride at being able to channel an insole with the knife--and best, all in one go-round. Image

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Re: Tools of the Trade

#389 Post by jake »

Here's a couple of tools nobody has mentioned. The first one is a sharpening system utilizing two paper wheels and a bench grinder. The wheel on the left is covered with a light abrasive which you coat with grease to keep the temp down. The wheel to the right is for finishing a edge. You coat it with tripoli or something like that. I haven't used a stone in years! You can also sharpen your french skivers with it too.
2578.jpg


And the next tool may seem trivial to some, but I use it alot. It's used to hammer out your metal shanks, and to "hammer-jack" leather, such as heel lifts. The railroad rail came from Montana, but that's another story.
2579.jpg
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#390 Post by gcunning »

I sharpen my pocket knives and some of my leather tools on that system. It takes some getting use to. But is great when you get it down. I also have a buffer on another ginder with a little rouge just for small touch ups.

I have the railroad rail and use it for many things.
I have abot 10 or 12 feet - I think. Next year at the round up, if any one is interested let me know and I well cut it for them, if I still have it.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#391 Post by jake »

Prepared my first insole for inseaming with my new "free-hand" knife. Except for a few strokes with a shoemaker's rasp, the insoles were prepared with just this one tool. I apologize for the quality of the photos.
2580.jpg
2581.jpg
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#392 Post by jake »

Hey Gary,

Cutting the rail was the rest of the story! It ain't too easy. At least the feller who cut mine had a rough time of it. How do you cut yours?
texrobinboots

Re: Tools of the Trade

#393 Post by texrobinboots »

Jake,
The channeling job on the innersole looks good. Similar to the way I do mine. But I 'll bet I punch my holes different than you do....Hey, a piece of that rail about a foot long will do fine...
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#394 Post by jake »

Tex,

Thanks Tex! Wish you had a digital camera. We would love to see your way of punching holes.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#395 Post by dw »

Jake,

I'm not nearly as good with that camera as you are...has to be me, we've got nearly the same box...but just to make Tex jealous, Image here's a photo of the way I do it for comparison.
2582.jpg


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Re: Tools of the Trade

#396 Post by texrobinboots »

DW,

Yeah, but I don't need to practice punching my holes. I only do them once.Image So I am not the least bit jealous.Image.....TR
rosynay

Re: Tools of the Trade

#397 Post by rosynay »

All:

In my former life I was highly proficient in the sewing arts as much so as the best of you building boots.
I have mentioned in the past the cutting mats as being one of the tools
that can be found down at the fabric store. I have used the Olfa cutting mats for as long as they have been
manufactured which is about 30 years.
They are very common, are available in
several sizes and can be found in
almost all stores where dress fabric
is sold. They can also be ordered from a sewing supply firm called Clotilde.
Joan and Handcock fabric stores have them and so do all quilt shops. Your
sharp knife will not scar or mar them
as they were designed to be cut upon nor will the material you are using shift as readily as on some surfaces. I can't imagine not having one in my
sewng room and nor can I imagine
not having one to cut leather. If you
have never used one you are using an inferior surface for cutting purposes.
RL
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#398 Post by rosynay »

Jake:
Two years ago I bought a grinder at
the Boot Roundup. The first time I used it I made dust out of my brand new coffee pot sitting near by. Before that happened I was able to sharpen two
knives really well. It has been in the box since but today I decided to get it going again when I can figure out how to replace the paper wheel I cut to pieces along with my new coffee pot.

The last time Walter went in the garage
he told me I didn't any more know how to use some of the tools I have than the man in the moon. Do you suppose I will need a chop saw and a 5 HPs compressor when I get started producing some boots?
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#399 Post by jake »

D.W.,

Heck, I think that's a great shot. And like I said, I'm still not sure I'll stay with the way I recently cut my inside channel. I know one thing for sure, I was using the wrong tool to cut my inside channel. Using a french skiver is the wrong tool! I did some practicing on some scraps, and the best way to cut that inside channel is with a goover. Just groove it! By the time you pull your inseaming thread tight, it'll be down below the surface of the leather. I was pleasantly surprised with the results. I just wanted to try my new knife out. I really got a lot of satisfaction of doing the whole darn thing with just one tool.

Glad you posted the pic. That way folks have a view of both techniques.
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Re: Tools of the Trade

#400 Post by jake »

Rosemary,

Let's see....the way I'm reading your post, are you pointing the blade toward you while approaching the wheel? If you are, that is wrong! And dangerous! I just can't imagine any other way of destroying a wheel. Please post a more complete description of how you did that. I would be interested in hearing it, plus I'll try to help any way I can. If my memory serves me correctly, I'm the one who put you onto this tool.

I'm going to have to send D.W. one of the olfa mats. If he would use it just one time, he would kiss me afterwards! Well....maybe I need to think on that. (hell I forgot how to make a smiley face)
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