Lasting

Share secrets, compare techniques, discuss the merits of materials--eg. veg vs. chrome--and above all, seek knowledge.
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elfn
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Re: Lasting

#676 Post by elfn »

It might! I have a couple. I'll drag an old one out next time and give it a whirl.

The t-shirt works great because I have so many cut up into rags. They get used for everything . . . and I can nail into them with impunity.

At some point I'm going to have to make a boot. I'd like to do a side zip which means I have to shape the front. I've been studying very carefully all the bits about shaping the front. I don't want to reinvent the wheel but I do want to let t-shirt knit and a spray bottle be my friend.

Nori
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Re: Lasting

#677 Post by elfn »

I've got my new pair of fitters started. I've made some adjustments to the lasts. FWIW, the material Lorr used to cast the lasts is some pretty awesome stuff. I was able to use the wire wheel side of the bench grinder to narrow the ankle and add some more shape to the back of the heel. Now is the time to test to see if these adjustments are just right or whether more tweaking is required.

I cut the throat higher on the pattern. I will end up with four lace grommets per side instead of three. I've got the first shaper on the last and so far, I'm really happy. I should have taken a picture before I covered it all up. The shaper comes all the way up the back of the heel as a complete replacement for the heel counter. I cut triangles of leather out of the side of the heel and butt stitched to give a good shape. I should have taken pictures of that part of the construction.

The leather I'm using for the shapers is twice as thick as the last pair I made, but the leather is proving to be very nice to work with. It's stiff and thick but willing to be shaped.

I used a car inner tube this time and I'm really pleased with how it's holding the perimeter of the shape.
13471.jpg


I hope the second shaper goes as nicely as this has. My butt stitching technique needs practice and my stitching horse needs to be made out of something harder than fir, but I am making progress. I'll try and find some maple for another head for my stitching horse.

I know I'm doing very out-of-the-box stuff, but what I need doesn't match with beautifully decorated dress shoes with pretty stitching and awesome good looks. I'm tired of paying hundreds of dollars for shoes and boots that hurt my feet and don't support my hips and knees. My answer to all that is to use the same techniques that have helped me solve other problems . . . research, research, research, then dive in and learn as I go. The result may not be pretty, but it should get me back outside doing the things I love.

Nori
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elfn
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Re: Lasting

#678 Post by elfn »

Here's the end result . . . before final trimming and skiving.
13486.jpg


As I mentioned before, my butt stitching needs practice.

The best news of all . . . I'm managing NOT to hit my thumb again.

Nori

(Message edited by elfn on March 18, 2011)
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Re: Lasting

#679 Post by courtney »

From what I can surmise, heel wedge pitch is bad? I think I have it. Is it terrible? Heres a picture hopefully you will be able to see where I drew the line. And also one of a wesco boot that has it.
13844.jpg
13845.jpg
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Re: Lasting

#680 Post by courtney »

I meant to put it in one last question. Sorry
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Re: Lasting

#681 Post by artzend »

Courtney

You can level up the heel as you add lifts. The commercial boot could do with another lift to add to the back and ground off at the front to level it.

We would need to see the toe spring to be able to assess the heel on your boot.

Tim
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Re: Lasting

#682 Post by courtney »

Thanks Tim, I made the boots so I'll post them soon.
i'm just curious though why that slope is in there, If it's bad, and if it is,
Can I get rid of it?

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Re: Lasting

#683 Post by artzend »

Courtney

The back of your sole will probably never sit flat to the bench so I wouldn't worry about it. Fix it with the lifts before your top piece, which should be close to flat, or slightly raised (about a business card depth) at the very back.

Tim
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Re: Lasting

#684 Post by courtney »

Thanks again Tim.

Courtney
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Re: Lasting

#685 Post by derrick_fischer »

Hi,

I have a problem, when I last my boots, the back panel makes the most ugliest fold on the top, both sides, it is difficult to explain, but it is like the leather wants to fold around itself. Please help.
rosesj

Re: Lasting

#686 Post by rosesj »

Do you have a picture Derrick?
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Re: Lasting

#687 Post by derrick_fischer »

No, i don,t know how to post one maybe you could help me with that aswell? If I need to download software to past a picture, I'll just send you one on your private email, if thats ok.
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Re: Lasting

#688 Post by romango »

Derrick,

There are instructions on posting pictures under the Formatting section on the main menu.
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Re: Lasting

#689 Post by derrick_fischer »

delete

(Message edited by Derrick fischer on December 22, 2011)
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Re: Lasting

#690 Post by admin »

Derrick,

You need to post photos of the boot from several angles and several distances, and in a small format (800x640). If the photos are as large as the photos in the testing area, folks will not be able to see them unless they have a much larger screen than most do.

Generally, when you buy a digital camera, software will come with it that will allow you to set the size from whatever the camera records to a usable size...again 800 x 640 pixels.

Additionally, there are small programs on the internet which are free and perfectly safe to download and which will easily do the job of downsizing or rotating, etc.. Such software is extremely useful both for posting to forums other than the CC, but also emailing to friends, doing slide shows, and just all-around enjoyment of your photos.

You've got the idea, now you just need to provide photos that allow members to see the boot in its entirety so that the problems can be identified and advice give.

Emmett...
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Re: Lasting

#691 Post by derrick_fischer »

Thanks Emmett, thats why I deleted it the first time, I'll get some proper photos and post it then. Thanks again for the tips.

Derrick.
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Re: Lasting

#692 Post by derrick_fischer »

Hi,

Finally. Herewith the picture of the ugly fold on the back panel after lasting. The seam was trimmed from the back and front, then pulled over a pvc pipe and tapped with a hammer. I wanted to send more than one picture, but the fold doesn't look so bad from other angles, this angle shows it the best.
14248.jpg


Derrick.
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Re: Lasting

#693 Post by dw »

Derrick,

Nothing in the photo indicates why this is occurring in the back panel and not the front panel. It might just be the leather--the temper or quality of that particular piece.

Bottom line, however, is that from this angle there is nothing to indicate that there is a problem with the boot. The tops should tree out and the boot look fine and fit fine and function as it should.

Tight Stitches
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Re: Lasting

#694 Post by derrick_fischer »

Mr Frommer, Thank you for your reply.

The reason why that folding and curling is a problem for me, is that your boots are not doing it.

Every pair I ever lasted did it, exactly after lasting. Is like you say, after treeing it is gone.

I appreciate your insight alot, but if there is any other reason that you can think of, why this is happening, please advise.
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Re: Lasting

#695 Post by dw »

Derrick,

I don't know why your tops are doing that. I'd have to watch you go through a pair of boots, examine your patterns, you leathers, your sideseaming techniques, etc., to even have a clue.

But, I don't think it is a major problem. When I last my boots the vamps and the tops are wet. When I hang them in the pinrack/bench, I am, of course, hanging them upside-down. I pull the tops down (up on the boots) and I flatten/stretch the tops so that any pipes or curling is minimized. When dry, they are pretty well set in that flat configuration.

And it's true, I don't see the kind of folding that you are seeing. But I was looking at a pair in production this morning and there is a very slight amount of roll-in at the top of the sideseam. Macht nichts. It will tree out...never to be seen again.

I just don't see it as a critical problem, however...maybe if you switch to some lining kip, or something a little firmer for lining, Derrick, this would disappear. Maybe a firmer (not thicker) top leather. Maybe just straightening the boot top as you hang it.

Tight Stitches
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Re: Lasting

#696 Post by srtango »

Derrick,
The picture shows the back panel has a twist right around where the slide ends. I think the slide keeps the back panel straight up. The pressure is more than the side seam area can hold, cause it to collapse.
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Re: Lasting

#697 Post by elfn »

Can I comment from a seamstress point of view? It looks like the side seam layers creeped. When you sewed it were both layers held flat and level or did you curve them up or down as you were feeding into the machine? Were they fastened together to keep them in correct relation to each other?

I ask because the side seam looks like it's curved forward at the bottom which implies the front of the boot has more vertical material at the seam than the back.
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Re: Lasting

#698 Post by paul »

Is it possible you are over stretching the liner, side to side at the top when you lay it on the panel?

Maybe there is more stretch from your liner, and therefore "rebound", than your top leather.

Paul
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Re: Lasting

#699 Post by dw »

^ Either one of those is a fair possibility although given what I know about putting tops together I might gravitate towards what Paul has suggested. I was struck by how appropriate his insight was--it just "felt" right.

If you're using a rolling pin, Derrick, or some sort of tool to press the lining and the cement into the top leather, you may be stretching the lining such that the inner circumference is much smaller than the top itself. This would definitely cause the curl you're seeing.

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Re: Lasting

#700 Post by srtango »

I think there's one more reason to use pull strap?
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