Bootmaking books?

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erickgeer

Re: Bootmaking books?

#51 Post by erickgeer »

Dan,
Is that the "Textbook of Footwear Materials"?
I can't find a synopsis for it - Does it go beyond the materials and into proccesses?

I also found this book listed:
"Footwear Materials And Processes," by Cohn, Walter E. 1969.

It is certainly a downside to searching for books on the web - there usually aren't good synopses, if any.

Erick
erickgeer

Re: Bootmaking books?

#52 Post by erickgeer »

Dan,
After posting that question, I did find listings for "textbook of footwear manufacture." The library has it, which I will be going to look at shortly. Thanks for the tip.

Erick
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#53 Post by danfreeman »

Erick--Both exist; "Textbook of Footwear Manufacture" has some really good information amid the factory processes and lasting-machine-operation stuff: June Swann knew John Thornton, and spoke of him with respect. Unfortunately, his "Textbook of Footwear Materials," like Walter Cohn's book you mention, contains very little that is useful to the hand shoe or boot maker; unlike Cohn's book, however, it is accurate and informative. Both, of course, are out of date with the modern manufacturer.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#54 Post by erickgeer »

I got to page through the "textbook of Footwear Manufacturing" yesterday, and I liked what I saw. It include information for the hand-maker as well as machine made - which was nice. They seem to have lost the Cohn book, and I am wondering if it s a book I ran accross several years ago that I was interested in- multiple computer change overs and I lost the info on it that I used to have - oh well.

I haven't looked at it yet, but the library seems to have a copy of "Boot and Shoe Production" by J. Korn - the notes on it say that it is a condensed and reorganized version of Golding, does that sound right?

Does anyone have any comments on the "Manual of Shoemaking" put out by Clark's?

Erick
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#55 Post by das »

Erick,

J. Korn is indeed a condensed version of Golding's multi-volume set--nothing added, much cut out, particularly the hand-sewn stuff. None the less it's handy for the pattern-making section--bigger formant, bigger illustrations, and it lays open. Clark's manual is nice to have, but it's focused on training factory workers in Clark's shoe types (stitch downs, etc.).

Being familiar with, or owning, every known shoe textbook from Rees onward, from a practical point of view Golding's multi-volume set, Bordoli, and Edward Swaysland, 'Boot & Shoe Design and Manufacture' (1905) are the best ones all around.

Happy hunting.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#56 Post by dw »

Erick,

You know you can learn something from all these books. Like Al, I own or am familiar with the majority of the titles that really stand out....Swaysland, Plucknett, Bordoli, Golding, Leno, etc...although surely not as familiar as Al or Dan. But I picked up techniques in a photocopy of an exerpt from Thornton. Everytime I read in any of the above titles, even ifit's only a small stretch, I come away with something to think about.

I have a copy of the Clark's Manual, and if I had to part with any of my books that would be the one that would go first.

It's surprising how many different ways there are of doing things and yet how fundamentally similar the techniques that have stood the test of time really are. And the more essential the technique tot the construction of a shoe or boot, the more it seems that ideas and tecniques converge.

I have Swaysland and Bordoli and Gresham and Golding and (each to his own, sometimes a person just "gets along better" with a certain style of writing than another) I'd have to say that Golding has always been the "gold(ing) standard" as far as I was concerned.

If you're looking for books on the internet check out http://www.hp-bookfinders.co.uk/index.html It took some time but eventually he came up with almost every copy that I own. Don't expect to acquire a copy of the really old stuff, like Rees, though.

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Re: Bootmaking books?

#57 Post by dw »

PS. Don't expect to find many of these books in the American library system. They may be there but not in any abundance or available through an Inter-Library loan. Most were printed and published in the UK. That's where you have to start looking.

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Re: Bootmaking books?

#58 Post by frank_jones »

Erik

This is a rather belated contribution to this discussion. I agree in general with all the comments above.

I have several observations mainly based on my UK perspective. Most of the books or sets of books that have been discussed here were produced as student textbooks, designed for use in specialist footwear colleges. In the 1950’s/60’s there were more than 20 such establishments in the UK, most had been set up in the late 19th or early 20th century. These colleges all had a full shoemaking facility, usually with a pattern and design room, a cutting room, a sewing room, plus a lasting and finishing room. In effect each was a miniature footwear factory complete with lasts, cutting dies, tools, benches, etc. as well as the machinery. One thing that was initially missing was the library of literature with the background reading. A vital part of any college study. These books filled that gap.

They were mainly written by, or with the help of, various staff members of the colleges. The footwear manufacturing industry was a major employer in the UK until the mid 1980’s when imports really started to make a major impact. At its height it was a much bigger industry than, for example, shipbuilding. These colleges were regarded very much as part of the support infrastructure of the industry and the great shoemaking family firms usually sent their sons (and sometimes daughters) to the local footwear college.

As you would expect the earlier works concentrate more on hand shoemaking and, much more important then, hand boot making. So Golding (1902 and 1935) and Swaysland (1805) are highly regarded. The big problem is that boot and shoemaking is a very practical subject and cannot be learned from books, you need to DO IT. This was not a problem for the authors at the time. The books were designed to complement the practical classes at college, just like any other text book.

It is difficult to produce a textbook on hand boot/shoemaking which can stand alone without that practical input. When the Pattern Cutter’s Handbook was produced, we started with 95 pages of extensive classroom notes. This eventually became the 134 page book but it took hundreds of hours of work over more than 2 years, before it went to print in 1991. We then did a significant revision in 1994, for the second edition.

I had the privilege of being a student at Cordwainer’s Technical College in London when Jack Korn (the editor of “Boot and Shoe Production”) was the college Principal. Later, I enjoyed working on an industry committee he chaired. The College as I knew it, no longer exists and we have just two of the 20+ UK establishments left - at the moment . . . . . . .

Frank Jones
frank.jones@shoemaking.com
Lisa Cresson

Re: Bootmaking books?

#59 Post by Lisa Cresson »

Dear DW et al,

I am looking for the link to download a copy of the recently digitzed Golding's eight volume set Boots and Shoes -- thank you DW. I am a paying member of the HCC, thank you M Saguto.

A link or other response would be terrific.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#60 Post by dw »

Lisa,

Look to the left-hand frame...right next to your post. There you will find a link to the "HCC Homepage."

Go to the HCC Homepage. There you will find a left and right-hand frame, as well. Click on "The Guild Library" in the left-hand frame.

When the right hand frame is done loading, you'll see the links for downloading both books.

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tomo

Re: Bootmaking books?

#61 Post by tomo »

Lisa, it's in the HCC library section - click on the left hand side of your screen where it says 'Return to HCC home page' then go into the Library section.
The first time I tried to access it I couldn't find it, just the first volume. So I hit the 'Refresh' button on the browser bar and it bought it up.
More power to y'awl.
T.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#62 Post by jenny_fleishman »

Is anyone familiar with a couple of the books available on
http://www.shoetrades.com/Foott&m.html ?

Particularly "Introduction to Modern Footwear" as it sounds like it addresses foot function. Also, how about "The Shoe Last" by Jan Pivecka and Siegfried Laure? Still don't have my Koleff book in hand yet, but wondering how "The Shoe Last" compares to it. Have already gotten some comments here about "American Last Making" by Karl Adrian, but welcome more. From the descriptions of some of these books it sounds like they're really geared toward manufacturing, and I'm wondering how useful they are for handmaking lasts, and if they differ much in how instructional they are in that respect.

If anyone has any of the other books listed on the site, I'm interested in reviews/opinions of them, too! Thanks.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#63 Post by walrus »

Jenney
All of George Koleff's books are Written for the Custom shoe maker .The books are coming.
Larry Waller
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#64 Post by lancepryor »

I find the Koleff book to be far superior for the construction of a custom last. Both the Adrian and Pivecka books are geared toward production lastmaking, with information such as grading standards and other factory-oriented data. I just don't find them helpful for a custom last (although some of the data may be helpful for choosing a last size to start with, if you are going to modify an existing factory last).

I have used Koleff's system to design a couple of lasts, based on measurements, tracings, and pedographs. It seems pretty straightforward; whether it produces a good fitting last I cannot yet say, but at least it gives you a soup to nuts system. The other books really do not do this.
Lisa Cresson

Re: Bootmaking books?

#65 Post by Lisa Cresson »

Jenny,

Your questions point to two area's knowledge last creation which is really hard to start from scratch. This is why podiatric footware is made on a cast of the foot. And the other is how to make your shoes.

The custom shoemaking book you seek does not exactly exist. The closest would be to mix Mary Whales Loomis' "How to Make Your Own Shoes"which actually matches your approach using a cast - in your case your foot - in her case the impression of her foot in a worn shoe as the basis for the form upon which shoes are made. I used this book back in 1986 but it does not work that well as a technique. Supposedly she sold 1 million copies which means she made 20 million dollars at $20 each.

But for the oxford contruction you described to me; Carl Litche has taken apart footwear and then referred to the "Handmade Shoes for Men." I have been in his shop many times and he had numerous page marks in this book. It was his primary reference although he likes the Swaysland books on footwear industry found on www.abe.com. They cost about $300-$400. You could search this forum's library for some CDs with video. And then there is Sharon Rayond's SimpleShoemaking.com but I do not think she has an oxford pattern exactly like Capezio.

There are some older publications: look to the two .pdf manuals of Golding's posted here for information on fitting up lasts.

There is an eBay seller named HelpfulHarry who supposedly has alot of lasts or try Andy Bata in California for his old run of ColeHaan loafer lasts including women's sizes. Look him up on www.newbigbook.com in the alph listing of Barta Hide & Leather.

The path of least resistance is to find used lasts close to your foot measure [heel area and heel to ball length]; and then build up the toe box/width. If you look at www.shoedo.com, Georgene McKim has a page with leather-up instructions to make a last fit better. Consider making a fitter before your final shoes.

Good Luck.
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#66 Post by jenny_fleishman »

Has anybody purchased or seen ShoeSchool's "The Handcrafted Shoe Book?"

http://www.shoeschool.com/shoeschool/theater/purchase_video.html

I'm wondering how it compares to the Wilson Gracey shoemaking tapes and others. Thanks.

Jenny
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#67 Post by dw »

Jenny,

I know Alan. He's a good shoemaker (used to be "Shoemaker to the Clowns) and was one of the pioneers in digitalizing the foot and creating a custom last from that process.

I've never seen Wilson Gracey's stuff but I think you would learn alot from Alan's books or videos.

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Re: Bootmaking books?

#68 Post by tommick »

Jenny, I know Alan too and I took a one day private lesson from him several years ago. He is a wealth of information, a very interesting inventor and he owns a varitable museum of shoemaking equipment along with the equipment that he has for his own use.

I have the video that you speak of and I reviewed it less than 6 mo. ago when I was planning a short shoe/boot piece of footwear. It's a good video but if you are pretty far along in learning to make footwear then you may only glean a few pieces of information from it.

I also have a Gracy tape and it's certainly not the same quality as Alan's video. I can't say that I learned much from the Gracey tape and the patterns that came with it are pretty primitive.

However, I keep an open mind and have learned something from both.

Regards, Tom Mickel
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#69 Post by artzend »

Hi,

All those who know that I have a book out there just ignore this but for newbies who only find this page I am putting a link to my site http://www.shoemakingbook.com for the book Bespoke Shoemaking, A Comprehensive Guide to Handmade Footwear.

Tim
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#70 Post by big_larry »

D.W. and Dick Anderson,

Just a word of "thanks" for that wonderful DVD you and Dick Anderson produced on crimping the wellington.

I especially appreciate being able to see the "majical" transformation take place and the sequence of tacking and tightening.

Pure gold!

Larry Peterson
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#71 Post by dw »

Larry,

You're most welcome...although except for being there and doing what I do, it wasn't much of my doing, if you see what I mean.

Just remember to go slow, watch what is happening at every point along the edge and bear in mind that you can usually release and reset irons or tacks to alleviate some of the stress.

Also not every leather will do this...although Lisa's Alligator FW's really wowed me--I'm almost afraid to ask how she did it for fear I will have to abandon everything I know (or think I know) and start over.

I have a pair of FW's on the boards now. I made an extra set of boards over the summer and I can now block an entire boot at once.

Tight Stitches
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(Message edited by dw on December 09, 2007)
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#72 Post by lancepryor »

Thanks to William Bailey's post concerning pitch, Leno's book is now viewable online via Google's book scanning activities.

Leno: The Art of Boot and Shoemaking -- click on the 'Read this book' tab

Thanks William!
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#73 Post by dave »

Hi Folks,

I have managed to collect several pdf books on shoemaking in addition to the two the HCC has posted. These books came from Google Books. I do not know the link to any of them off hand but each of these is available free in their entirety on Google Books:

A manual on Foot Care and Shoe Fitting for Officers of the U.S. Navy and U.S. Marine Corps, Mann and Folsom; 1920

The Art and Mystery of the Gentle Craft-Being an Essay on the Practice and Principles of Boot and Shoe Making and Cutting, John O’Sullivan, Prize-man, 1834

The Art of Boot and Shoemaking, John Bedford Leno, 1885

The Human Foot-A Few Practical Words on the Covering and Protecting of it, William Beneke, 1888

The Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, F.Y. Golding, 1902

The Military Shoe, Maj. S. A. Salquin, 1883

The Shoe Industry, Frederick J. Allen, 1922

Since I do not have the link to each book I am uncertain as to the best way to share these with folks who may be interested. One way would be to just do a search for them on Google but if there are list members who can't find the titles there and would like me to e-mail any of these titles to them please let me know and I'll be happy to share (these would be big e-mails though). I imagine the old pros on this list have already gone through most of these but until I have some skills of my own this is all I have to share!

Sincerely,

Dave
relferink

Re: Bootmaking books?

#74 Post by relferink »

Hi Dave,

Welcome to The Crispin Colloquy, looks like you've been reading up on boot and shoemaking!
Thanks for the titles, I had not found all of them. They were not hard to find through Google book search.
Gives me something to read. Too bad I can't take it out on the patio unless I print them.

Feel free to introduce yourself in the registry and let us know about your interests and abilities.

Rob
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Re: Bootmaking books?

#75 Post by mack »

Hi All,
I finally got to read some of the Golding books that are often referred to.
I must say that I have never thought that it was really possible to learn bespoke shoemaking from a book and none of the people I know in the West End trade have heard of Golding, but I got to read the book or section on bespoke shoemaking and I found it very accurate.
It really does outline the methods used in English making very well and in good detail.
I guess the thing missing is that a book can only take it so far ,I even found this with pattern cutting, watching a skilled cutter taught me so much more than the various books but I need to refer to a book as I sometimes forget how I did it last time !
Anyway I see the value of Golding, shame it took me so long to get to read it. I think I will look out for a set but I imagine they are rarer than russia calf.
Mack
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