The following images were taken from Golding's "Boots and Shoes" [I can't seem to find a date of publication in my volumes but it is undoubtedly the very late 1800's or early 1900's], New Era Publishing, London. Golding edited this eight volume set, contributing his own dissertations and including those of other respected makers.Golding was for 38 years the principle of the Cordwainer's Technical College of London.
The first illustration is a very simplified diagram of where basic girths are to be taken. The author of this section [Vol. VI, Section XI}, a J. Ball goes on to say..."The heel measurement is a very important one and is obtained by determining the girth of the foot in a plane through the point of the heel and the neck or throat of the foot." And "There are other parts of the foot that it may be considered necessary to measure in some cases, as for example, the waist measurement at a point between A and B, the high instep between B and C, and the long heel from D to B (see Fig, 10)"
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The second illustration (Golding Vol. VIII, Section XVI) is essentially the same concept but this section is written by Golding himself.
"Position of Girth Measurements"
"These are usually decided by reference to general terms such as jointts, insteps, etc., and are shown in Fig 44 as given in the Author's Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, where A is the ball, B the half ball, C tehwaist, D the instep, E teh long heel, F the heel , and G the ankle positions of the measurements respectively....(note the inclusion of the long heel)...These positions where the girth measurements are to be taken can be located by using proportions of the foot's length, say, half the length of the foot for the instep. Or the foot may be measured more frequently than is usually done by carrying out a suggestion made by E.J.C. Swaysland and measuring at every inch, or by Sabbages's system of dividing the foot into elevenths (see Section VIII, fig. 38)."
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In the next several images, the construction of the standard is depicted--using both the mean forme and the heel measures (both short heel and long heel.Golding) Careful reading of this section seems to indicate that if measurements from the foot are not available, the long heel is derived from a conjunction of the inside forme and the outside forme and the heel line is 10 degrees off of the long heel line. This indicates that even when a standard size, non-bespoke shoe is to be made, the heel line and the long heel are important. The second illustration, in particular shows the layout of the patterns themselves and it must be noted that the quarters do not rise above the heel line--reinforcing my assertion that even shoemakers use the SH for patterning although they seldom design the vamp to cover it.
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Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC
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), the patterns that are depicted for low quarter shoes all seem to have one thing in common--the heel (SH) measurement is drafted onto the layout of the pattern but the quarters are almost universally designed well below the end pont of this heel line. 
