Curved needle

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jesselee
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Re: Curved needle

#176 Post by jesselee » Thu Jan 13, 2011 6:01 pm

Alasdair,

I have found that out. The handle must be pulled consistently. Mostly I am using it to side seam boots.
I have not used it for soles yet, that' a plan for when the shop is more than 40 degrees. Just having the normal plate, I plan to cut a channel in the soles to both protect the stitches and make the leather thinner.

Cheers,
JesseLee

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Re: Curved needle

#177 Post by janne_melkersson » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:39 pm

Alasdair
the foot should lift during one revolotion. I don't know how to adjust this maybe someone else does. It doesn't need to lift much mine just lift a couple of millimetres.

I got mine up and running today and it did sew quite alright. I need to make some trimming and then it is good for work.

Here is a photo of todays test work. It is 9 spi with the awl size 47 and needle size 50. I need to find some thinner tread before I'm happy with the result. The shortest stitches it could do was 11 spi.
12719.jpg

Janne

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Re: Curved needle

#178 Post by amuckart » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:37 pm

JesseLee,

I'm afraid that's all I can offer by way of suggestion. Someone more familiar with them like Al or HenryV, if he still reads this board, may have better ideas.

Sorry I can't help more. If I do think of something while tinkering with my machines I'll let you know.

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Re: Curved needle

#179 Post by amuckart » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:56 pm

Jan-Erik,

That's a nice stitch. Better than mine will lay down right now. I'm having trouble with thread breaking because the thread pickup hook at the top is slightly out of whack and is picking up both threads. The hook and awl were slightly out of line too, but I fixed that by shifting the awl carrier slightly to line them up.

I've only got size 43 hooks in decent condition which are too big for the #8 thread I have and I've no idea what sizes the awls I have are, there was just a random selection of them in the tin that came with the machine.

The foot doesn't lift at all on my machine, which is slightly marking up the work. I'll have to pull it apart again to figure out why.

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Re: Curved needle

#180 Post by amuckart » Fri Jan 14, 2011 5:58 pm

I have another question about my outsolder, born of inexperience with this type of machine.

How close should the hook follow the awl down through the work? From reading about machines like the Campbell I got the impression that they should be very close, but on my machine there's a good distance between them and I'm not sure if it's an issue or not.
12724.jpg
12723.jpg
12722.jpg


The hook is in the correct place, any lower and the lower looper will hang up on it and do Bad Things.
12721.jpg


I can't see a way to raise the awl any higher either so I'm going to assume that this is normal and nothing to worry about, but I thought I'd ask just in case.

Thanks.

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Re: Curved needle

#181 Post by jesselee » Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:11 pm

Alasdair,

Thanks for the help you have given me. I am wondering about that piece under the shuttle guide. Is it supposed to have some slack? When I push it up from underneath it has maybe a 1/16 to 3/32nds play. What is this part?

Cheers,

JesseLee

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Re: Curved needle

#182 Post by amuckart » Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:42 pm

JesseLee,

You mean the cog that bolts to the bottom of the shuttle carrier?

I'm not sure if there's supposed to be slack in that or not, both of my machines have some, but the one that currently doesn't sew has a lot more slack than the other which is causing the shuttle to bind up.

Thinking about this, that may be your issue. When you have this problem does the machine just bind up, or does the handle keep moving without the needle arm moving sideways?

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Re: Curved needle

#183 Post by janne_melkersson » Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:19 am

Alasdair
"I'm having trouble with thread breaking because the thread pickup hook at the top is slightly out of whack and is picking up both threads"

This is esay to adjust, just move the thread picup a bit to the right by loosen the front bolt. Doing this will change the possition of the needle guide which is on the same shaft so you have to loosen the bolt that holds it to put it back.

About your other question my experience is that the distance between the awl and the needle when the presser foot is down and locked could be about 10 millimetre to 3 millimetre. I have tried them all and anything seems to work.

If you have a problem to find awls and needles please let me know.

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Re: Curved needle

#184 Post by jesselee » Sat Jan 15, 2011 12:08 pm

Alasdair,

That's exactly the part. You could be right on the matter. Perhaps it needs a shim.

Cheers,

JesseLee


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Re: Curved needle

#186 Post by janne_melkersson » Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:32 pm

Ludvig,welcome to the forum.
Thanks for posting the photos, the machine sure was looking good when new.

När du kommer och hälsar på vore jag glad om du tog med dig manualen så jag kan kopiera den.

Thats Swedish for when you visit me please bring the manual so I can sopy it.

Janne

(Message edited by janne melkersson on January 28, 2011)

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Re: Curved needle

#187 Post by amuckart » Sat Jan 29, 2011 2:22 pm

Ludvig,

Thank you for those pictures. Does your one still have the oil pump intact?

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Re: Curved needle

#188 Post by lludvig » Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:42 am

I do not have an oil pump that I know of.
Janne I do't have a manual.

Ludvig
www.Ludvigs.nu

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Re: Curved needle

#189 Post by janne_melkersson » Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:26 am

Ludvig,
ok, I was hoping you had a manual.


Alisdar,

There is no oil pump on my 309 but the bigger 317 have an hydralic brake system.

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Re: Curved needle

#190 Post by jesselee » Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:10 am

Alasdair,
Have you got any pointers for using an ancient Gritzner for sole stitching? Also what size of needle for a 7 cord Barbours linen and are they available.

Cheers,

JesseLee

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Re: Curved needle

#191 Post by amuckart » Fri Feb 04, 2011 2:37 pm

Hi JesseLee,

I haven't got mine fully working yet, it's dropping stitches every 10 or so cycles. I may need to get a different knife for it.

Tom O'Sullivan uses one and might have some good pointers. I have a manual he was kind enough to scan and will get it online today.

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Re: Curved needle

#192 Post by jesselee » Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:24 pm

Alasdair,

I'm new to these fine old ladies. I have seen one like yours in action. Nice stitching. I wonder if they take the same needles as the early models. BTW, do you know when the first ones were made?

Cheers,

JesseLee

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Re: Curved needle

#193 Post by tshoeman » Sun Apr 10, 2011 4:08 pm

Hi, new to the Forum. I am a Shoe Repairer and had a question on Landis Curved Needle Stitchers. Just bought a Landis 12G for $200.00 near me it Stitches awesome and everything is in great condition, no problems whatsoever. But was wondering what the difference is between the G,K & L's. Which one you prefer and which is most desirable, stitches best, easiest, etc. Any input would be Great.

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Re: Curved needle

#194 Post by dw » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:32 am

Tim,

Welcome to the forum.

Functionally, if the machine is in good condition and running well, there is not all that much difference that is significant...mostly more chrome with the newer models.

I myself have an "F"--a late model "F" that has some of the features of the chronologically next model (the "G" ). I have been using it for nearly forty years.

Even late model manuals can still be useful for the older models that's how similar they are.

Tight Stitches
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Re: Curved needle

#195 Post by donrwalker » Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:14 pm

Tim

I have both a G and an F. Very few differances in function. G has a few more bells and whistles. Would have a Rapid E if I could justify it.

Don

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Re: Curved needle

#196 Post by athan_chilton » Tue May 03, 2011 5:38 am

A question re: curved needles for handsewn welt: Have any of you ever tried using quilter's needles? Or any sort of needle you have found effective, other than do-it-yourself guitar-string needles or hog bristle?

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Re: Curved needle

#197 Post by adam_j » Mon May 09, 2011 10:26 am

lokking for a way to circumvent the 12l. i would like a machine that i can close a shoe on and sew the welt to the sole or mid, after changing thread. got any ideas?

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Re: Curved needle

#198 Post by artvanhecke » Mon May 09, 2011 12:21 pm

Hi Adam,

Nothing will sew as close as a curved needle machine, however a Campbell can get pretty close, and there is a needle plate that will open the stitch groove in the sole. You sew the boot/shoe rightside up as the shuttle is on the bottom of the machine. The Campbell will do a fantastic job on the welted side seams, but for other closing, the 31-20 or the 5550 is the better machine, it's a little more nimble than the Campbell and you can decorate your tops with the 31.

Please note that you can buy a 12, a finisher (Landis 400 or so), a 5 in 1, a splitter, and a couple of 31s for what you will pay for a Campbell.

Art

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Re: Curved needle

#199 Post by romango » Tue May 20, 2014 8:30 am

What do folks use in their curved needle stitchers? Hot wax, liquid wax or thread lube?

Also, do you use an awl that is one size larger than the needle?

(I have a Landis K)

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Re: Curved needle

#200 Post by dw » Tue May 20, 2014 10:33 am

romango wrote:What do folks use in their curved needle stitchers? Hot wax, liquid wax or thread lube?

Also, do you use an awl that is one size larger than the needle?

(I have a Landis K)
Rick,

Sorry I didn't answer your question in the last email you sent--I wasn't in the shop and couldn't remember.

I have a late model F which was, I believe the precursor to the K. I also have a manual which says it is for the F and the K. The manual says that the hook should be smaller than the awl. But be aware that awls and hooks are numbered "backwards." In other words, a size 45 awl is larger than a size 47 awl. I think I'm using a 47 hook and a 45 awl.

Also the manual says that the top thread should be one size larger than the bobbin thread. I am using 6-1/2 Bulldog dacron for both top and bobbin.

I use liquid wax. I spent too many years fussing with cleaning the machine after it had heated up in the morning with hot wax. I don't know anyone who uses hot wax anymore. And if you're using dacron thread then thread lube is probably just as good since the liquid wax probably isn't going to stick to the dacron very well, anyway

Hope this helps.

PS...you're welcome to photcopy my photocopy of the manual when you come over.
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