Shane,
Unfortunately, when you work only on boots, you can develop a severe case of tunnel vision. They do indeed make cylinder arm machines of the 441 variety that will easily handle 415 thread. The 491 type post machine is very good, I have one, but it is (at least for me) for repair work. It is also just useful if it happens to have the right thread in it for a particular job. It is not a necessity for making boots, but it is oh so handy. I also have a Campbell if I want to get all period and use linen for holsters etc.
All you really need for boots is a 5550 or a Singer 31-20 with a roller and a 441 or ASN if you want to use large thread. The 441 may be a little more versatile because of the cylinder arm. Pick up a used Singer 168 if you want a post later. I've seen them for $250 for the head. They now have short arm 441s for around $2k new and $1500 barely used. The 9" arm would work fine for boots and a lot of other things.
Art
sewing machines
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artvanhecke
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
I hadn't considered a big heavy cylinder machine such as you describe. That might work I guess. These are fairly new on the scene...I'm old.
I use a dacron thread that is equivalent to a 6/7 cord linen. How that relates to the size range specified in your machine, I really don't know.
As for "look"...if the thread is not reasonably heavy, it just looks thin. One example I saw was actually double-stitched. Presumably the maker thought one pass wasn't strong enough.
If it were me and I was only going to use the cylinder machine 5-6 times a year, I think I would do the sideseaming by hand and get the post machine instead. Sideseaming by hand takes a bit more time but it's not particularly onerous.
You can do sideseaming by hand, some actually prefer to do it that way, but you can't do by hand...not with any kind of refinement...what a post machine can do. And once you have one you will find more uses for it than just attaching pulls.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
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I use a dacron thread that is equivalent to a 6/7 cord linen. How that relates to the size range specified in your machine, I really don't know.
As for "look"...if the thread is not reasonably heavy, it just looks thin. One example I saw was actually double-stitched. Presumably the maker thought one pass wasn't strong enough.
If it were me and I was only going to use the cylinder machine 5-6 times a year, I think I would do the sideseaming by hand and get the post machine instead. Sideseaming by hand takes a bit more time but it's not particularly onerous.
You can do sideseaming by hand, some actually prefer to do it that way, but you can't do by hand...not with any kind of refinement...what a post machine can do. And once you have one you will find more uses for it than just attaching pulls.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
It's well to remember what we're about in this business...you can buy the latest and greatest and pack every corner of your shop with machines and gadgets and so forth. And in the process lose sight entirely of the fact that shoes and boots were once (and in some places, still) made with a very minimal amount of machinery and very often at a higher level of refinement and quality than when machines were/are introduced.
As far as it goes, I admit to having "tunnel vision." I'm interested in making boots and shoes with as much finesse and elegance as I can bring to bear. I don't think it helps to rely on mechanical aids to do what you cannot do well in their absence. If you can't "see" it, no machine can help; if you can, any machine (or none) will do.
Beyond that, I have no special perspective or credibility. My best advice is to listen to those whose work you most admire. Or at least those willing to offer it for examination.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
As far as it goes, I admit to having "tunnel vision." I'm interested in making boots and shoes with as much finesse and elegance as I can bring to bear. I don't think it helps to rely on mechanical aids to do what you cannot do well in their absence. If you can't "see" it, no machine can help; if you can, any machine (or none) will do.
Beyond that, I have no special perspective or credibility. My best advice is to listen to those whose work you most admire. Or at least those willing to offer it for examination.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
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artvanhecke
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Re: sewing machines
Shane,
I don't know where you are located, but you are welcome to use my cylinder arm machines if you are close to Maryland. I have a couple of 12s if you want to use them also.
It is however not difficult to sew a side seam with a straight awl and harness needles. But a good awl and haft from Bob Douglas and a block of beeswax will make short work of the job, and a good clamp will help. Mind you, I wouldn't want to do it all day every day, but a pair a month wouldn't wear you down too far. Once you learn and get a rhythm, it goes pretty fast. Don't forget a stitch marker and an overstitch wheel.
Like you, I have precious little time to pursue my hobbies, and I can afford every tool to enable me to make the most of the time I have. Since I do other leatherwork, I have bigger machines than the average bootmaker might have, you can't sew draft harness or Western holsters with a 31.
Art
I don't know where you are located, but you are welcome to use my cylinder arm machines if you are close to Maryland. I have a couple of 12s if you want to use them also.
It is however not difficult to sew a side seam with a straight awl and harness needles. But a good awl and haft from Bob Douglas and a block of beeswax will make short work of the job, and a good clamp will help. Mind you, I wouldn't want to do it all day every day, but a pair a month wouldn't wear you down too far. Once you learn and get a rhythm, it goes pretty fast. Don't forget a stitch marker and an overstitch wheel.
Like you, I have precious little time to pursue my hobbies, and I can afford every tool to enable me to make the most of the time I have. Since I do other leatherwork, I have bigger machines than the average bootmaker might have, you can't sew draft harness or Western holsters with a 31.
Art
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
Can you side seam using a curved needle stitcher?
Alasdair,
I've seen it done. It requires some fiddling with the awl (reshaping) and you wouldn't want to be switching out awls and re-adjusting everything whenever you wanted to switch back to outsole stitching. What's more, it has such a small work "table" that the boot is a little unstable.
But it can be done very credibly...with lots of practice.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
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rosesj
Re: sewing machines
What do you guys REALLY think about the utility and production quality of building a good quality flatbed for a 491 Post machine to use it for stitching boot tops? They sell flatbed conversions for cylinder machines, but I can see how this might not work as well for my needs.
This would certainly save space for me.
I am just thinking out loud, but would like to conserve space if possible. The cost isn't the biggest factor, it really is having the room to put the machines. Although, I would rather save when I can and get what I need in reality.
I don't want something which is going to barely be adequate. But if the thing which screws up my stitches is ME, that is fine, I can improve. But if it is because I am using a post machine with a built up table for stitching, and this basic tenet is what is causing the poor quality, then I don't want to go there at all.
Has anyone here ever worked on a Post with a built up bed? Can you see potential problems?
Shane
This would certainly save space for me.
I am just thinking out loud, but would like to conserve space if possible. The cost isn't the biggest factor, it really is having the room to put the machines. Although, I would rather save when I can and get what I need in reality.
I don't want something which is going to barely be adequate. But if the thing which screws up my stitches is ME, that is fine, I can improve. But if it is because I am using a post machine with a built up table for stitching, and this basic tenet is what is causing the poor quality, then I don't want to go there at all.
Has anyone here ever worked on a Post with a built up bed? Can you see potential problems?
Shane
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tmattimore
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Re: sewing machines
You don't need a perfect table to sew perfectly you need a machine capable of sewing perfectly. Then you can train the operator. As long as the table is not rough as a cob and snagging every thing in sight you will be fine. Think of the table as a work rest, as long as it is flush with the top of the post it will work out.
I used to use a ASN for side seaming but now I use a pfaff 145 walking foot with a 190x180 needle and a spool of mil-spec nylon that I picked up somewhere and it works fine for me. I once saw a post machine with a table that was tilted about 10 degrees toward the operator that seemed to work great for fine work.
I used to use a ASN for side seaming but now I use a pfaff 145 walking foot with a 190x180 needle and a spool of mil-spec nylon that I picked up somewhere and it works fine for me. I once saw a post machine with a table that was tilted about 10 degrees toward the operator that seemed to work great for fine work.
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
Shane,
Tom said it perfectly.
Fundamentally a post machine functions near-as-nevermind in the same way as a flatbed machine. The flatbed itself supports the work broadly. If you can make a removable table for your post machine that supports the work broadly...the only significant difference in operation between a post machine and a 31-15 might be the height of the chair you need to use.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
Tom said it perfectly.
Fundamentally a post machine functions near-as-nevermind in the same way as a flatbed machine. The flatbed itself supports the work broadly. If you can make a removable table for your post machine that supports the work broadly...the only significant difference in operation between a post machine and a 31-15 might be the height of the chair you need to use.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
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rosesj
Re: sewing machines
Thank you all. I think I am going to give it a try and buy the Post and build a table. If it doesn't work, the consensus seems to be that the post machine will still be valuable to me, so there is no loss except for a little time and effort. I have plenty of effort and well... time is always a premium, but I have a bit of it as well.
Thank you very much for your help.
Shane
Thank you very much for your help.
Shane
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chuck_deats
Re: sewing machines
The most difficult place for me to sew on boots is the side pulls on a stovepipe style. Can't seem to get there on a flatbed. Not sure a cylinder would be better. Maybe a post would be. I end up using a patcher.
Chuck
Chuck
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sorrell
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Re: sewing machines
I use an American Straight Needle for side seaming and a curved needle for out seaming. I've heard of bootmakers side seaming on a curved needle and one of my first jobs was for a guy who both side seamed and stitched soles on an American Straight Needle. I've never tried side seaming on a curved needle but it doesn't sound like fun, and I can tell you from experience that out seaming on a straight needle is awful. I wouldn't want to try making do with one of them for both jobs.
I'll add my voice to the consensus on the post machine--converting it to a flat bed should make it work exactly like a flat bed.
Lisa
I'll add my voice to the consensus on the post machine--converting it to a flat bed should make it work exactly like a flat bed.
Lisa
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rosesj
Re: sewing machines
There is a guy closeby who has 2 Landis model 12 stitchers for sale. One is a K the other is a G. Both seem to be approximately equal in overall condition and I don't see any specific loose parts/rust/etc. Both came out of the same shop and are reported to have both been working when it closed a few years ago.
I can see a few differences in the 'cosmetics' as well as the table etc. But the basic head appears very similar.
What is the REAL difference between the G and the K? is it substantial? Is it problematic? Given the right price, would it be worth buying both? I understand they are model series with the later 'letter' indicating a 'newer' style and age of the machine. But, I am not really a guy for newer is always better (despite my previous posts) when it comes to this sort of series machine. Upgrades aren't always UPGRADES in my experience. So, given equal machines, would you buy the K or the G and why?
These just popped up for me, and I wasn't looking. But since they seem ubiquitous to most of you all, I suspect they might be something I will want in the future.
And I thought I felt out of my depth trying to decide about post or flatbeds...
I can see a few differences in the 'cosmetics' as well as the table etc. But the basic head appears very similar.
What is the REAL difference between the G and the K? is it substantial? Is it problematic? Given the right price, would it be worth buying both? I understand they are model series with the later 'letter' indicating a 'newer' style and age of the machine. But, I am not really a guy for newer is always better (despite my previous posts) when it comes to this sort of series machine. Upgrades aren't always UPGRADES in my experience. So, given equal machines, would you buy the K or the G and why?
These just popped up for me, and I wasn't looking. But since they seem ubiquitous to most of you all, I suspect they might be something I will want in the future.
And I thought I felt out of my depth trying to decide about post or flatbeds...
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
I've used K's (and just about every other model) but I own an F...although it is a late F--almost identical to a G.
Some small parts are interchangeable but I wouldn't expect you could buy the G as a parts machine for the K.
As for how they operate and sew, they're pretty much the same, theoretically. Functionally the K is probably got a few more bells and whistles. You have to think, however, that the G, being older, would be more worn. That's not an absolute certainty, but I would expect it and hope to be pleasantly surprised.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
Some small parts are interchangeable but I wouldn't expect you could buy the G as a parts machine for the K.
As for how they operate and sew, they're pretty much the same, theoretically. Functionally the K is probably got a few more bells and whistles. You have to think, however, that the G, being older, would be more worn. That's not an absolute certainty, but I would expect it and hope to be pleasantly surprised.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
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artvanhecke
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Re: sewing machines
Shane,
The K has amenities like a heater for the spare bobbin and other things, but nothing you can't do without. I know I see more Gs out there than Ks, very seldom a F or L, my G is set up such that it could have been used on a line shaft, but never was. The K was designed to be self powered. Each has a different clutch mechanism. My G takes up a bit more floor space because of the long drive shaft. Either machine will work fine for your application. The average repair shop will put more hours on a machine in a week than you will in a year, so once you get it operating, it will last quite a long time. You don't want a machine that came out of a factory without a complete rebuild, they take a beating but were repaired and serviced well....usually.
Prices will be all over the board, I paid $135 for the G and $123 for the K, both demonstrated working. At Auction. Probably not the average, so I lucked out I guess.
If you can pick up both for a really good price, you can have one for black thread and one for white.
Art
The K has amenities like a heater for the spare bobbin and other things, but nothing you can't do without. I know I see more Gs out there than Ks, very seldom a F or L, my G is set up such that it could have been used on a line shaft, but never was. The K was designed to be self powered. Each has a different clutch mechanism. My G takes up a bit more floor space because of the long drive shaft. Either machine will work fine for your application. The average repair shop will put more hours on a machine in a week than you will in a year, so once you get it operating, it will last quite a long time. You don't want a machine that came out of a factory without a complete rebuild, they take a beating but were repaired and serviced well....usually.
Prices will be all over the board, I paid $135 for the G and $123 for the K, both demonstrated working. At Auction. Probably not the average, so I lucked out I guess.
If you can pick up both for a really good price, you can have one for black thread and one for white.
Art
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rosesj
Re: sewing machines
Is there anything which I should really look for on the machines? Things which would automatically 'throw it out' of your purchase or really give you pause? I can look at basic mechanics and understand 'slop' or basic malalignment if it is obvious, however, especially since I can't run down to "Landis-Zone" and pick up a new part... are there certain things which I should absolutely ensure work or are 'there' which are classically missing.
The guy who owns the machines does not know how to run them. He is just the guy who is selling them. However, to his knowledge, they ran fine when they were being used in the shop (per him). I don't know him well enough to 'trust him' however, he seems very upfront and is willing to answer any questions I put to him, to the best of his extremely limited knowledge.
What sort of things should I look for which would help YOU to buy the machine?
The guy who owns the machines does not know how to run them. He is just the guy who is selling them. However, to his knowledge, they ran fine when they were being used in the shop (per him). I don't know him well enough to 'trust him' however, he seems very upfront and is willing to answer any questions I put to him, to the best of his extremely limited knowledge.
What sort of things should I look for which would help YOU to buy the machine?
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
Shane,
There is a good chance that you may not like what I am about to say and an equally good chance that someone else may feel differently...but, the advice is free so take it for what it's worth...
If you are asking these questions, you're not really ready to own one of these machines. Sorry but there it is. No criticism intended.
The Landis 12 is a big machine and not easy to operate. If you can't get one up and running, and sew with it, and from that determine if it is usable or what it needs to make it usable, then either the machine is a pig-in-the-poke or you need someone who does know about these kinds of machines to go with you and help you evaluate them.
Go down to your local shoe repair shop and ask the owner/operator if you can commission his time to help you look at a machine. Or call your shoe repair finder, many of those guys have been in the business and have "retired" to a sales job and sometimes they can help.
But you need a hands-on demonstration that the machine(s) sews properly.
Don't buy any machine that you haven't seen run under a number of different conditions or haven't run yourself.
My first machine was an old Champion curved needle. It came off a navy ship. It had been broken down for shipping and put together incorrectly. I had to tear it down completely and put it back together. I had to buy a bearing that was missing with no parts manual and only a neophyte's intuited specifications.
It took me almost six months to get it working...thankfully I have an engineer's brain (or did have when I was younger) and, not the least was that I didn't have a real job so I had the time.
And, in the end, it worked.
I got lucky, didn't pay much for it, and except for the six months, I didn't have much time/money into it.
On the flip side, I learned a heck of a lot.
But I wasn't ready, either. Again, I got lucky.
Don't buy on trust or wishful thinking or hope. It will end badly 99% of the time.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
There is a good chance that you may not like what I am about to say and an equally good chance that someone else may feel differently...but, the advice is free so take it for what it's worth...
If you are asking these questions, you're not really ready to own one of these machines. Sorry but there it is. No criticism intended.
The Landis 12 is a big machine and not easy to operate. If you can't get one up and running, and sew with it, and from that determine if it is usable or what it needs to make it usable, then either the machine is a pig-in-the-poke or you need someone who does know about these kinds of machines to go with you and help you evaluate them.
Go down to your local shoe repair shop and ask the owner/operator if you can commission his time to help you look at a machine. Or call your shoe repair finder, many of those guys have been in the business and have "retired" to a sales job and sometimes they can help.
But you need a hands-on demonstration that the machine(s) sews properly.
Don't buy any machine that you haven't seen run under a number of different conditions or haven't run yourself.
My first machine was an old Champion curved needle. It came off a navy ship. It had been broken down for shipping and put together incorrectly. I had to tear it down completely and put it back together. I had to buy a bearing that was missing with no parts manual and only a neophyte's intuited specifications.
It took me almost six months to get it working...thankfully I have an engineer's brain (or did have when I was younger) and, not the least was that I didn't have a real job so I had the time.
And, in the end, it worked.
I got lucky, didn't pay much for it, and except for the six months, I didn't have much time/money into it.
On the flip side, I learned a heck of a lot.
But I wasn't ready, either. Again, I got lucky.
Don't buy on trust or wishful thinking or hope. It will end badly 99% of the time.
[hr][/hr]
Without "good," there is no "better," without "better," no "best."
And without the recognition that there is a hierarchy of excellence in all things, nothing rises above the level of mundane.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
[center]Little Jack Dandiprat in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives, the shorter he grows.[/center]
-
rosesj
Re: sewing machines
I appreciate the thought and advice. I'm going to go look at it fully next weekend.
The only caveat I see is that short of taking an appreticeship/class etc with you or one of the other Masters, I am unlikely to ever get guided experience on a machine. I have already resigned myself to the requirement of MUCH trial and error in this endeavor of 'boots and shoes', and am OK with the less than ideal circumstance. I have realized that my career schedule is always likely to prevent me from obtaining the hands on time I would like with someone who can teach me. I'm OK with that simply because the alternative is to do nothing at all, which is NOT something I am OK with.
I will take a look at the machine and see how it goes. If it looks like it is beyond me, then I will make the choice at that time. I have made some life decisions in the past, and if it they only ended in a loss of finances, I would have been luckier than I am. I am certainly not opposed to outsoling by hand...
The only caveat I see is that short of taking an appreticeship/class etc with you or one of the other Masters, I am unlikely to ever get guided experience on a machine. I have already resigned myself to the requirement of MUCH trial and error in this endeavor of 'boots and shoes', and am OK with the less than ideal circumstance. I have realized that my career schedule is always likely to prevent me from obtaining the hands on time I would like with someone who can teach me. I'm OK with that simply because the alternative is to do nothing at all, which is NOT something I am OK with.
I will take a look at the machine and see how it goes. If it looks like it is beyond me, then I will make the choice at that time. I have made some life decisions in the past, and if it they only ended in a loss of finances, I would have been luckier than I am. I am certainly not opposed to outsoling by hand...
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dw
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Re: sewing machines
Well, most of us learn without formal training. (Although I had been sewing on a Landis 12L (? IIRC) for several years before I bought my first machine.) it's not impossible. I always tell my students to go down to the Goodwill and buy some old shoes and practice resoling them.
But buying a machine without someone to guide you or to help you determine if the machine even can sew properly is simply setting yourself up for failure. If you buy a machine and you don't know if it is in good condition how are you ever going to determine if the problems you have stitching and outsole are as a result of your inexperience or a problem with the machine?
As I said the Landis 12 is a complex machine and not easy to learn to sew properly with. I know some very good boot/shoemakers who, after literally years of owning a curved needle machine, are so uncomfortable with it that they would rather hand stitch the outsole.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
But buying a machine without someone to guide you or to help you determine if the machine even can sew properly is simply setting yourself up for failure. If you buy a machine and you don't know if it is in good condition how are you ever going to determine if the problems you have stitching and outsole are as a result of your inexperience or a problem with the machine?
As I said the Landis 12 is a complex machine and not easy to learn to sew properly with. I know some very good boot/shoemakers who, after literally years of owning a curved needle machine, are so uncomfortable with it that they would rather hand stitch the outsole.
Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member
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kevin_l
- 1
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:00 am
- Full Name: Kevin W. Leary
- Location: BLOOMINGTON, Illinois, United States
Re: sewing machines
Hi Shane:
I just got my Landis L set up in my basement and went over to a local repair shop (6 blocks). I not only was welcomed, but really overwhelmed with the reception.
I wanted to "observe" there guy sew and instead am going to actually be able to sew on their machine under his supervision.
Why, oh why, did I buy my own just starting out?
Check around before YOU buy.
Kevin
I just got my Landis L set up in my basement and went over to a local repair shop (6 blocks). I not only was welcomed, but really overwhelmed with the reception.
I wanted to "observe" there guy sew and instead am going to actually be able to sew on their machine under his supervision.
Why, oh why, did I buy my own just starting out?
Check around before YOU buy.
Kevin
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chuck_deats
Re: sewing machines
Experience similar to Kevin. My local shoe repair shop charges $10 to stitch the outsoles if it is all trimmed and glued. He does require the last removed. Not the best looking job, but acceptable. Dress boots get hand stitched.
Chuck
Chuck
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rosesj
Re: sewing machines
I believe this is sound advice.
Besides, hand stitching will give me the hand skills to do better at other aspects as well.
Now... I have to figure out how to get some custom lasts though. This is one area where I don't think I will be able to do well on my own. Small changes might be OK to make, but of all the things which I am lacking right now... and they are myriad and extensive in scope... My understanding of real world types of leather, getting a well fit personal last (when there is no one around who you feel can do a good job measuring), and understanding how to change the toe shape are the three which are blocking me now.
I dealt with the easy stuff... procuring tools etc. But these things have reared up as the final, and obviously most important, things I must accomplish in order to begin.
I will post the next question over in the Lasts, section.
Thanks for your guidance.
Besides, hand stitching will give me the hand skills to do better at other aspects as well.
Now... I have to figure out how to get some custom lasts though. This is one area where I don't think I will be able to do well on my own. Small changes might be OK to make, but of all the things which I am lacking right now... and they are myriad and extensive in scope... My understanding of real world types of leather, getting a well fit personal last (when there is no one around who you feel can do a good job measuring), and understanding how to change the toe shape are the three which are blocking me now.
I dealt with the easy stuff... procuring tools etc. But these things have reared up as the final, and obviously most important, things I must accomplish in order to begin.
I will post the next question over in the Lasts, section.
Thanks for your guidance.
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kevin_l
- 1
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:00 am
- Full Name: Kevin W. Leary
- Location: BLOOMINGTON, Illinois, United States
Re: sewing machines
Good morning Shane:
You are correct that the last is difficult on your own. But, my wife did an excellent job measuring my foot with direction.
IF..you are serious about this task you could use some guidance.
I would suggest a book, written by a master here at HCC.
Go to www.bootmaker.com. LINKS, SCHOOL OF BOOTMAKING, PUBLICATIONS,WESTERN BOOTMAKING: AN AMERICAN TRADITION. buy it.
You will have your last and much, much more.
Good luck,
Kevin
You are correct that the last is difficult on your own. But, my wife did an excellent job measuring my foot with direction.
IF..you are serious about this task you could use some guidance.
I would suggest a book, written by a master here at HCC.
Go to www.bootmaker.com. LINKS, SCHOOL OF BOOTMAKING, PUBLICATIONS,WESTERN BOOTMAKING: AN AMERICAN TRADITION. buy it.
You will have your last and much, much more.
Good luck,
Kevin
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sorrell
- 6
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2005 12:00 pm
- Full Name: Lisa Sorrell
- Location: Guthrie, OK
- Been Liked: 10 times
- Contact:
Re: sewing machines
Shane,
I'm going to jump in here with an opinion. We've been talking about working on machines. That's a necessary skill for a boot maker to have, mainly because there aren't many machinery mechanics available anymore. I wouldn't necessarily class it as part of the boot making craft.
However, the ability to fit your own lasts IS a part of the craft. It goes hand in hand with building boots. You can't, in my opinion, decide to build boots and omit learning to fit a last. If you don't want to work on machines, spend the money to buy new ones that work properly, try to never knock them out of timing and don't be a machine mechanic. But do learn to fit your own lasts.
Just my two cents....
Lisa
I'm going to jump in here with an opinion. We've been talking about working on machines. That's a necessary skill for a boot maker to have, mainly because there aren't many machinery mechanics available anymore. I wouldn't necessarily class it as part of the boot making craft.
However, the ability to fit your own lasts IS a part of the craft. It goes hand in hand with building boots. You can't, in my opinion, decide to build boots and omit learning to fit a last. If you don't want to work on machines, spend the money to buy new ones that work properly, try to never knock them out of timing and don't be a machine mechanic. But do learn to fit your own lasts.
Just my two cents....
Lisa