Tackling the heel

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homeboy
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Re: Tackling the heel

#226 Post by homeboy » Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:40 pm

Heck....I had the information right next to me. Pam is always COMPLAINING of my "piles".

Danny Marlin Knives......254-842-5405.......Blanket, TX 76432

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Re: Tackling the heel

#227 Post by dinerio » Wed Feb 17, 2016 10:20 pm

Jake,

Thanks for the info, I'll check him out. I have a couple small head knives, one that R Jolly made me years ago and a LBL, but they are a little bigger than the one DW pictured here, and measure about 3 1/2 in from tip to tip. Might be a little to big. And darned if I don't already have a Marlin straight blade skiving knife.

Just lasted the boots, so will be a few days before I tackle the heels. Still a little apprehensive about cutting that curve.

Vincent

laelaps boots
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Re: Tackling the heel

#228 Post by laelaps boots » Fri May 20, 2016 4:20 am

Hello,
I have just begun to think about the option of sewing a rand to the heel, and a welt to the forepart. Up until now I have been using a turn out method and have not needed these two parts. What I am wondering is what is the techniques of pegging the heel. I'm wondering what goes into it, how deep do you make the hole, does one smash down the end of the peg to create a mushroom. I am thankful in advance for your help,
Justin

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Re: Tackling the heel

#229 Post by dw » Fri May 20, 2016 5:31 am

laelaps boots » Fri May 20, 2016 4:20 am wrote: What I am wondering is what is the techniques of pegging the heel. I'm wondering what goes into it, how deep do you make the hole, does one smash down the end of the peg to create a mushroom. I am thankful in advance for your help,
Justin
The way I do it...the way I was taught... is first, the pegging awl must be smaller than the peg about to be driven. Considerably smaller although I don't have am amount to give you. Pegging awls, esp. in sizes, are hard to get anymore but other kinds of awls--such as harness machine awls, etc., can be adapted.

Second, the awl is driven into the leather and through all layers that want holding together. In this instance the awl would go through the "rend" and the insole and penetrate the last slightly.

The peg is driven into the hole such that it bottoms out. Some mushrooming may occur...and I used to think this was desirable...but peg points inside the shoe will be floated and pegs in the rand or outsole or heel lift leveled, so I'm not sure it makes a difference. Pegs hold by virtue of the friction created by driving a large peg into a small hole.

With each subsequent layer--outsole, heel lifts, one two three--the pegs do not necessarily penetrate as far as the last but I use some pegs, particularly in the heel area, that are as long as three or even four layers of 12 iron leather (roughly 7/8"). And in the waist or forepart I use pegs that are half inch to five-eights inch long, ie. pegs that will penetrate the outsole, insole and the bottom of the last slightly.

Hope that helps.
DWFII--HCC Member
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