Tackling the heel

[shoestring]

PK,

I am in the same boat,learned everything about shoe repairing & luggage repair but never given instructions about the "Lip Knife".Learned what to do and not to do when I sliced my thumb open as if I was opening a fish.All I can say with that is a short sharp one is best,not one used for years with a long thin Sharp blade.

Ed

[tommick]

Jenny,

I've generally felt that I keep my knives sharp but I recently bought a Razor Sharp Edgemaking System and now my knives are dangerously sharp. This makes a huge difference and I'm much more able to accomplish the numerous cutting tasks involved in bootmaking. Also, as we all know, if you have to force a knife then you will eventually slip and cut yourself. Think finesse when cutting - not force.

I happened to have a combination buffer/grinder that I never use so I mounted the 2 wheels on it. This has turn out great because the buffer side shaft is extended out from the motor and gives you a little more room to work on the fine/buffing wheel. This is just working really well for me.

Tom

[jenny_fleishman]

Tom, I actually have that system, but switched from that to using Japanese water stones, once I discovered them. Feel like I have more control. I like the waterstones MUCH better than oil stones. With oil stones I felt like my hair would finish turning grey before I saw any results! The waterstones work much faster and are easier to clean up.

Even with the Razor Sharp system (and I did get some good edges) it still seemed like my tools were dulling quickly and I didn't want to have to have the grinder set up all the time (in my dining room) just to touch up the edges repeatedly.

Still, I'm not happy with the processes I'm using to maintain sharp tool (or perhaps the quality of the tools), and will continue to experiment...

Jenny

[jenny_fleishman]

Heel technique question...should each layer be cemented on soon after being cased(?) and hammer-jacked and while it is still damp---so it conforms to any irregularities in the surface of the previous layer?

I just skived the surface of the first heel layer as flat as I could, put when I place a hammer-jacked, but already dry, piece of heel leather against it, the surfaces do not meet perfectly...

If the normal procedure is to cement each layer on slightly damp, can I re-soak my hammer-jacked leather and still use it, or do I have to start with new pieces? Thanks.

Jenny

(Just posted a similar message but it is not appearing, so if it makes a late arrival, please forgive the redundancy!)

[jenny_fleishman]

Just finished the stacked heel on my shoes--did it wrong, I'm sure!...so I wondered if anyone could give me a quick rundown of the proper steps.

I built the stacked heel, cementing the layers of leather on when they were slightly damp, trimmed the edges of each layer and then touched it up at the end with a skiving knife. Sanded the sides of the heel with sandpaper. I just painted the edge of the heel with "heel blackening" (don't have the original bottle).

Then I thought I should "burnish"? it with a bone folder, but that rubbed off some of the black ink exposing some raw leather. So I repainted those areas, and I'm going to call it done, as I am only going to wear these shoes indoors for dancing (IF they fit ).

I know there are other steps to take during the heel finishing process, but I don't know exactly what they are, or what order to do them in. Coming to mind are possibly dampening the sides of the heel with water and then using the bone folder? Rubbing the surface with canvas (but when, before or after inking?). And possibly some additional coating to increase waterproofing? I reviewed my Wilson Gracey tape, but it wasn't much help with this.

Thanks for any info, and sorry for asking such remedial questions. I don't need a ton of details, just an outline of what to do in what order (and any recommended products). Any assistance appreciated!

Hope to post pictures of my shoes in the next day or two. Believe me, they WON'T be on the "Gallery" thread

Jenny

[dw]

Jenny,

I kept waiting for one of the bona fide shoemakers to anwer your question because if I am the only one responding, you shoes will end up looking like boots!!

The way I do it:

The first lift/layer is a "split lift" to accommodate the curve of the outsole in the heel area. I level that pretty severely --to the point where the lift is shaped like a horseshoe...with much of the lift ground away and the outsole exposed in the middle.

I cement each fully dry, hammer-jacked lift to the one below it, hammering it hard to full seat the lift and the cement. I level each lift as it is applied with an abrasive wheel on my finisher that carries 30 grit carborundum paper (cloth). I peg each layer with long pegs, being ever conscious of the projected breast of the heel and the degree of slant at the back of the heel.

When the heel is at height, I cut the breast with a breasting knife, or a hacksaw, and/or a head knife. I put a little "french" in the breast of my heels because it creates the illusion of a straight breast better than actually cutting a straight breast.

I then cut and rough-shape the sides of my heel with a knife and the 30 grit wheel on the finisher.

I add the top lift (rubber), and continue to shape, incorporating the top lift into the overall shape and moving into finer and finer grits of sandpaper, all the way to 180 grit on the naumkeg.

I then dye the heel--with a permanent dye. After that, I apply burnishing ink and when that is dry, I burnish the heel with a revolving canvas pad mounted on the brush section all the while adding a liberal amount of Yankee wax.

Finally, I buff everything off with the revolving horsehair brushes on the brush section of the finisher.

This can all be done by hand, eschewing the finisher altogether...and if I were doing it, I would simply modify the techniques I just described using knives and rasps (a "four-in-hand" or shoemaker's rasp is idea here...ore even a series of "microplanes" ) in lieu of the finisher and sandpaper as called for in the original recipe. But someone else would have to talk you though that process. I don't do it by hand...I don't need to...and I am ignorant of the finer techniques.

FWIW, I hope this helps...


Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

(Message edited by dw on January 19, 2007)

[jenny_fleishman]

Thanks, DW. What brand of dye do you use, and can you get a brown that will let the leather layers be somewhat visible? (In my collection of leather is some metallic pewter kidskin--for dance shoes, surprise, surprise!--and I'm thinking a black heel would be too harsh with that.) Can't quite wrap my head around making a covered heel yet...

What exactly is burnishing ink? Is it clear so you can use it over any color permanent dye? Thanks.

Jenny

[dw]

Jenny,

I use a spirit based "latigo" dye from Prime Finishes. It is one of the few dyes I've ever used that doesn't leave a metallic patina on the leather. But you have to order a large amount of goods from them...something in the $150.00 range. Most folks use Fiebings which is available from any finder or even Tandy. A Brown or Dark brown will let the layers and variations on the leather show through.

Burnishing ink is a water-soluble dye...quite a bit like an "ink"...mixed with a water-soluble wax. There is probably more to it than that but functionally, the water moistens the leather allowing you to burnish with a canvas wheel and the wax is applied and driven into the leather during the process. It is not usually clear although I do have some clear.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[j1a2g3]

All,

What kind of nail do you use to attach the rubber heel cap?

The smallest heel cap I could find was a size 7. It seems a little big for the boot I am making. Would you sand the rubber heel cap to make it look right or is there smaller caps to be found?

Thanks in advance, Joel

[dw]

Joel,

I use a threaded nail--8/8's.

When making a heel that requires a lift that is smaller than size 9's, I add an extra layer of leatheyr and use a 10 iron top lift material. sometimes, if the customer asks, I'll put a horseshoe cleat on top of that.

Not much else you can do.

Once upon a time, Biltrite/Quabaug made an 18 iron two layer toplift material that came in sheets. I still have about 12 square feet of that but they don't make it anymore despite pleading and whining. [sigh]

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[cobalt]

I am just starting to get into women's high heel shoes. But I am having difficulty finding a supplier for the actual heels them selves. The lasts I have made myself but for the life of me I can not track down a North American supplier of heels. Any thoughts??

Thanks
Cobalt

[romango]

If someone has a supplier, I'd like to know too. I have been thinking about making them by making a plaster cast of an existing heel and then pouring in some 300Q or other product from Smooth-On.com. 300Q seems very tough to me but they have other products that are rated higher in the toughness scale. You can also dye some of their products.

Once you have a mold. It would be pretty easy to make a lot of heels from it.

[rocketman]

Shane and Rick, I agree with both of you. I searched for months a while back and all I found was an outfit that fronted for a Chinese heel molder. Their products were out of style and required a large order. I realized that I could rough them out of wood more easily than I first thought though and that allows me more flexibility. Wood also takes either stain and finish or leather with Barge cement very easily. I'll post a wood shoe I just finished later today. I used red oak with teak oil. Lyle

[dw]

I've been following this discussion with some interest because I know there are several members of the forum that make women's shoes. And I wonder if there is an alternative to using plastic.

I...personal preferance, mind you...don't like plastic and am leaning towards a stacked leather heel with a steel dowel rather than plastic or wood, just because I have the materials to experiment with.

That said, using wood seems like a good way to go and I would think it wouldn't be that hard to shape them yourself. What's more, a leather covered heel on women's shoes is almost the standard these days. But the only question I have regarding wood heels is "what wood?" I would think you would need a very hard, very resiliant wood...maybe not too close grained so that driving nails into it will not split it and the impact of walking will not compress or shatter it. Oak might be ideal in that regard, I don't know. This is where the only thing that can answer is experience.

As for plastic. Most of your finders will carry some plastic heels. Or at least they used to years ago. They're not always the shape you might want or the heel height...and re-shaping them is much more difficult than with wood--you get melting of the plastic as you re-shape.

Goetz had/has both wood and plastic heels in a variety of sizes so one place you might start is McPhersons in Seattle. If they have to order from Germany, it may take a month or so to get what you want, however.

DAMHIKT.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[bill_harris]

I have a three dimensional duplicating machine that could make heels from wood.

If you send me your model or pattern and the material this machine can cut you a left and a right. It can also be adjusted to make the finished heel several sizes longer or narrower than your pattern.

5515.jpg

(640_x_480)

Bill Harris

[romango]

Nice machine! Actually, I jumped to the conclusion that Shane was referring to high spiked heels. I'm not sure why. I have made quite a few lower, wider women's heels, such as this:

5517.jpg

These are quite easy to do, once you know how. What you need is a top, side, front and bottom profile pattern. Draw the side profile on a block of wood. Cut or sand to the seat angle, using the side profile. Draw on the top and bottom profiles. Cut or sand to all the profile lines. Shape by hand or naumkeg.

I use a light mahogany that I found many pieces of at a wood bargain store. It is hard enough to stand up to punishment and soft enough to work with easily.

[kaspar]

DW
I have used plastic ones only for high heeled shoes and always covered them with leather or textile. Lower ones I try to do stacked leather or wood. Have to cut the heels so, that wood fibers? have to run horizontally, not vertically on the heel. And I have drilled smaller holes before attaching screws or nails. I used some sort of red wood.
Cheers
K.

(Message edited by kaspar on October 07, 2007)

(Message edited by kaspar on October 07, 2007)

[dw]

Bill,

Where did you get that machine?! I bet it can do lasts too, eh? Geez, it's big though. I've always wanted a machine like that but I'd have to move my bed into the closet (for more reasons than one ) to find enough room for it.

Kaspar, anyone...

How low (or high) a heel can you do with stacked leather and still have a stable heel?


Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

[kaspar]

DW.
Both mine was about 3,5-4 cm. high But sure you can do higher and if it goes too high (of course I do not know the limits due to my little experience) you can put some metal tube to the center of the heel and going also through the insole that helps to stabilize it. Well that is what I have pondered.

Cheers
K.

[rocketman]

Here is a photo of the first wooden shoe I've made with my copy machine. I posted here because it references the wooden heel question. I was experimenting with limits and this is pushed as far as I could get away with. They are red oak and the heel is stable/not fragile. I used a bronze roofing nail in the tip in a pre-drilled hole and then bonded a sole material on. I think that in the future I would use a heel "lift" or is it "tip". The bronze doesn't hold adhesive as well as I wanted.

5519.jpg

Lyle

[kaspar]

Lyle
Great looking shoes. Can You please post shots of the soles also? Thanks.

K.

[djulan]

Posted in behalf of Sharlot Battin:

Dear Shoemakers,
Just saw your postings about the great heel search. I have quite a bit of
information about HEELS; materials, sources, etc., but am unable to "post" at
this time because I haven't been "approved" yet. In the mean time I have
asked my friend David to forward this message.
As soon as I am enabled I will take part in your search and hope to learn a
few more tricks and sources myself.
Sharlot Battin

[rocketman]

Hi Kaspar, great to hear from you,
These are a couple more shots. The sole is textured neoprene rubber bonded with Barge all purpose. The upper, if you call it that, is 6 oz oil tanned chocolate brown. The heels were just cut on a band saw and shaped on a pneumatic drum sander. The heel hight is 16cm or 6 1/4".

5521.jpg

5522.jpg

,

5523.jpg

Lyle

[cobalt]

Very nice heels Lyle! The leather look very thick and rugged! Any issue with rubbing against the back of the foot? I am actually looking to do my first pair of strappy high heels, you know the ones I mean, with the tiny 3/8" leather straps all over the place. I can't seem to find heels or buckles for this project and it is driving me mad! Fortunately this is for personal experience and growth and not for professional need!
Look forward to solving this heel problem!

[paul]

At the risk of stating the obvious, you could look at second hand stores for shoes with heels such as you're wanting to find.

You could determine in advance the width of the heel seat required and take a caliper and measure whatever you find to insure it will fit. You might even find buckles that way.

Although Shane, I might still have a bag of buckles from years ago. 3/8" is what you're looking for? I'll dig around to find it and let you know.

From all this, it sounds like the shoe finders don't carry these anymore. That's too bad. I worked with a fellow in San Diego who changed and recovered so many heels on ladies shoes, that his thumbs were all shifted to the side from pressing the leather around the heel base. That was back in the '80s. Oh well.

PK