Tackling the heel

[gaid]

DW,
The way Jonaton describe the art of glass breaking is pretty much the same as we do it in Sweden and I think in the rest of Europe too. Breaking the glass in pieces with curved edges is hard enough but breaking them into a squared piece with a convex end is much more difficult. The shape I am talking about is about the same as Barnsley's shoe scraper no:1, the smaller end. The convex end of the glass piece should be a bit larger then the thickness of the sole edge. With it you could prepare the sole edge before putting on the edge iron. As Jonaton said "This is one of those things that will be difficult to describe" perhaps somebody else making shoes/boots the "hand made" way could fill in here. I am now the lucky owner of an sole trimmer so I dont have to bother breaking squared glass pieces anymore, telll you the truth, I was never good at it. But I could recomend the curved edged pieces, they are usefull for many things regarding making shoes. Btw, if breaked the "proper" way one piece of glass should be sharp enough for at least one pair.

[jonathon]

I tend to go through 3 pieces of glass per pair.
1 for the sole edge, 1 for the heel edge and 1 "spear" shaped piece for the heel breast. The edge of glass does go blunt fairly rapidly, but how well you break it in the first place will have a large bearing on this. Breaking it willy nilly to be honest just sounds like a waste of good glass.But I would encourage anyone to stick to it. It may take a while to get your percentage of "good" breaks up, but if your anything like myself, one day it will all seem to happen as if by magic!
Once you've got the hang of it, I guarantee it will be the cheapest and one of the most frequently used tools on your work bench.

Cheers.
Jon.

[jonathon]

Just a thought for those who have never finished by hand. First a knife is used to gain the initial shape. Then a rasp is used to remove any high spots. The next step is the glass, this removes the marks created by the rasp. Then sandpaper and lastly your edging iron.Basically each process refines the finish from the process before it untill we reach the desired result.

Cheers.
Jon.

[dmcharg]

DW, Jon, Judy Et al,
I didn't know about scraping with the leather damp. I've always done mine dry. Something else to try.

Jon, I like the use of a 'spear' shape for the heel breast. A tricky spot at the best of times. Paul Hasluck's descriptions of bootmaking make frequent use of a small,fine sheet of metal (say brass. Can be bought at hobby shops in various tiny thicknesses) held between upper and welt ,or upper and heel seat, to protect the vulnerable area from knives and rasps. I also have been using it to protect the sole when squaring up and rasping/smoothing the heel breast. Gunna try the glass now.

Unlike using a knife, it's basically impossible to dive into the leather and take a chunk out or, worse, go through.

Think the rest of it has been pretty well covered.

Stick with it DW, but with a file's corner or glass cutter. You'll find it much nicer.

Cheers
Duncan

[D.A. Saguto--HCC]

Duncan,

=============
"a small, fine sheet of metal (say brass. Can be bought at hobby shops in various tiny thicknesses) held between upper and welt, or upper and heel seat, to protect the vulnerable area from knives and rasps."
=============

This is none other than the historically infamous "pairing-horn"--"horn" when made from flat bits of horn lens material [they used to use flat thin sheets of horn for lantern lenses, etc.], otherwise called a "fender" in the dead guys' books. Some were lead [a old fishing sinker pounded flat works well], also the flared flat end of an old pewter spoon. And used just as you say: inserted down between the upper and welt so the knife point does not cut the upper in passing. I usually stick the point of the knife into the "fender" and slide both around in unison. Works like a charm, from the days before lip-knives and drag-knives. For rasping, however, I curl my fingers under the rasp to form a stop, so no more of the cutting surface is exposed than what is needed to cover the sole-edge, and rasp in only one direction to "comb" the fibers and knit them together. I hold the work under the stirrup, and keep my left thumb perched on the tip of the rasp to steer it and control it from hitting the uppers.

[gcunning]

I was taught to take the rasp over to the grinder and make one corner smooth as a baby's bottom. Works great, no problems getting into the leather.

[dw]

Gary and Al,

I was taught to take the *boot* over to the trimmer...




Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[gcunning]

Good one!! Yes, but there are some places that just a "touch" is needed. The rasp can be utilized other places as well. I would send a picture but still can't get the size down correctly.

[dmcharg]

DW, trimmers is fine for thems that got 'lectricity .
I am in the process of setting up a treadle sander using a small, old, bronze bushed, belt-driven benchgrinder shaft and treddle sewing-machine table.
I do actually have 3 power tools but none shoe related. I like the feel and control hand tools and foot power give you; and doing 19thC, and earlier, styles in a 19thC house, it's somehow more satisfying too.

Just some murmerings

Cheers
Duncan

[dw]

Some time ago, just after an HCC exhibition, a good friend of mine whose name I won't mention (but whose initials are "Al Saguto" ) suggested that I had used heel ball to polish the breasts of my heels. Scurrilous charge that it was, I thought I ought to dispel any such notion once't and for all.

Here is a photo of the breast of a heel. It has been scraped and hand burnished to a fare-thee-well. The perspective and the light are a bit out of whack but you get the idea. I do this to all the boots I make prior to dying and inking the heels.

2989.jpg

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

frommer@bootmaker.com
http://www.bootmaker.com



"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[dw]

Here's another photo of the same heel from the side. Again, I have hand burnished the leather to the point where just waxing it would probably result in an acceptable finish. Nevertheless, I will dye and ink this heel and sole (and, admittedly, some of the burnishing will disappear in that process...but not all) and then re-burnish with the burnishing wheel.

2991.jpg

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

frommer@bootmaker.com
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[jake]

Dee-Dubb,

I've got to make a few comment here, and I'll probably get some frowns and raised eyebrows.

For several years I've tried to "mechanically" achieve the results you have so graciously posted for our viewing. Most of the time, I've taken away from the refinement of the boot by way of abrading and cutting parts that didn't need it . For instance, I never use my naumkeg any more. It's profile hardly ever reflects what I have on the boot. In my opinion, the breasting wheel should be taken off of every finisher in a BOOT shop. It may be fine for shoes, but not boots. Having said that though, I do use a breasting wheel, but I only touch up the face of the rubber top lift with it.

I personally have gone to hand tools, some modified to suit my taste, to FINISH my boots. I do use my trimmer and burnishing irons on my finisher for the outsole edge, but most of my finish work is via hand tools (same as finishing a fine piece of wood). I use pieces of glass, metal scrapers, metal files (rhan files), sandpaper, lip knives, bones, etc.

I also don't burnish my leather, due to the fact I want an "open" surface to accept the dye and inking. Burnishing the leather prior to dying and inking hinders the bonding of dyes and waxes, in my humble opinion.

After the dying and inking, if I see something I don't like, I use my hand tools to correct the problem and go back to the inking. Again, just like you would finish a fine piece of wood.

I know this might not be the norm, and my opinion may be derived from my inability to use my machinery correctly, but for the past 6 months or so, it's the way I've been doing things. And I'm pleased with the results. Not only from a beauty standpoint, but a respect for the past. And after all, isn't that what this Forum is all about?

Lastly, I would like to say we sure do appreciate you posting your work. Hopefully, it will energize other members to do the same. Great job!

[jake]

Dee-Dubb,

Dang-it! My above post may seem like I'm in conflict with your techniques or process of finishing a boot. Nothing could be further from the truth! I know you use a lot of hand tools finishing out a boot. Sorry if my blabbering blurred my intention of supporting the extensive use of hand tools. Never have been too good at writing.

Basically, I'm in agreement. I use heated irons instead of burnishing after applying my dyes and waxes.

[dw]

Jake,

Not to worry. I wouldn't be put out if you did do things different that I do. My old pap used to say that if a feller could handle a little disagreement in his life he shouldn't get married.

Truth to tell, we probably do do things a little different, And I use a trimmer and burnishing irons on the brush section in preference to hand tools. I also use the naumkeg extensively. But particularly on the heel--the breast yes, but the sides too--I like to carefully glass and burnish the leather. Seems to make a difference. Also the forepart if you're gonna leave it natural. Nothing can bring it to an acceptable state except burnishing, in my opinion.

'Course it's slower ...always slower...but the results...smack, smack, all time favorite.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

frommer@bootmaker.com
http://www.bootmaker.com

"Little Jack Dandiprat, in a white petticoat,
The longer he lives the shorter he grows."

[jenny_fleishman]

Heel spring...I'm interesting in peoples opinions on it--whether to do it or not, and if yes, how much for a low (1/2 - 3/4 inch) heel? The Professional Shoe Fitting manual recommends that shoes have it. I have a pair of 1/2" heeled dance shoes that have about 3/16" heel spring, and I find this causes the insole to press up into the front of the bottom of my heel uncomfortably.

Jenny

[dw]

Jenny,

Well, I'm skeptical that heel spring does anything but obviate the carefully considered structure of the last. I agree with you that at the heel height you are describing and with the kind of flimsy (or non-existent) shank that is used in a dance shoe, you are almost guaranteed to have problems.

I've known or heard of many bootmakers who have different theories on this...of course this is a different style of footwear than dance shoes...some allowed a "dime's worth" of spring under the back of the heel; some even went the opposite way with a slight amount of clearance under the breast. Personally, I favour building the heel dead on...just as the last indicates. At one point I may get a tad bit of negative spring due to treeing but I don't worry about it--it's an artifact that walks out immediately.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[jenny_fleishman]

DW, the dance shoes in question do have a fairly rigid shank. I thought the heel spring was a defect when I first saw it...hadn't even heard of "heel spring" at that point. Now I'm thinking the last may have been designed for a 3/4 inch heel, not 1/2."

The Professional Shoe Fitting manual indicates the heel spring is to help roll through the stride. It seems like what I have in my dance shoes is too much, and a dimes worth seems like so little it wouldn't make any difference...., and when standing, any spring seems like it would put stress on the shank. A heel parallel to the floor with a curve up at the very back would seem more functional, but probably doesn't look good in a dress shoe. Then again, that happens with wear...

Jenny

[jenny_fleishman]

Does a leather heel hold up to wear better than synthetic ones? I frequently have to have my shoes reheeled as they wear down pretty quickly.

Can anyone elaborate on the pros and cons of various heel materials...leather vs. wood vs. plastic vs. rubber? (function, shock absorption, durability, feel..?) My local shoe finder has a variety of "ancient" (i.e. terribly dusty ) heels of various shapes, sizes and heights, mostly plastic or wood.

Jenny

[jenny_fleishman]

Once heel leather is hammer-jacked and is very hard and smooth (and I let it dry completely), how do you prepare it for cementing? Do you rough the surfaces with sandpaper (what grit?) or a wire rougher, so it takes the cement better? Does it matter if you put the layers grain side or flesh side down (toward the floor), although since I scraped off the grain, I'm not sure if I can tell which side is which at this point! Do you use more than one coat of cement? Is the idea of "priming" it with a layer of thinned cement and letting it dry a good idea before using full strength cement?

For trimming each layer of the heel as you build it up, what type of knife works well? Will a lip knife work, or a Tina knife, or something else? This is my next task (trimming the first layer) and I'm anticipating it will be difficult, due to the hardness of the leather.

Jenny

[dw]

Jenny,

Roughing up one side of the lift is a good idea...doesn't make any difference which side, although I generally prefer to cement the lift with the grain side down. When the lift has been cemented to the layer below it, cut, scrape or grind the surface of the lift level. [If the grainside is down, then as you grind away the fleshside, the best of the leather is more or less preserved.]

One good coat of cement of both surfaces is generally adequate, in my experience.

Trimming...well, I guess this is where I'm supposed to say "the proper tool for this job is the 5-in-1...." But of course the same probelm has been faced by generations of shoemakers and bootmakers long before the 5-in-1 was invented.

It all boils down to a sharp knife, a strong hand and patience--if you have to whittle it off, a little at a time, then that's what you have to do.

Sometimes there aren't any "reasonable" shortcuts...sometimes a person just has to work.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[jenny_fleishman]

Thanks, DW. Clarification, though, on "grain side down." Does this mean towards the floor? If so, when you grind it level after cementing it onto the shoe, aren't you grinding off the grain side, not the fleshside?

Jenny

[paul]

Jenny,

Grain side down in this case would refer to the view from the bottom. It's kinda screwy, this shop talk of ours, huh?

An additional benifit of placing the layers according to this plan, is that it's easier to grind a taper or dish against the flesh. With the flesh side up, one can make better progress removing material. And it's easier to level the flesh for the same reason.

PK

[jenny_fleishman]

Thanks. Shall we discuss concave and convex again?

Well, trimmed my first layer of the heels last night. Ended up with one bandaid on my hand, and two on my thumb as a preventive. Also, made a one-inch slice through the upper leather (but not the lining) in one place, but otherwise the shoes and I both survived the experience relatively intact.

After slicing the upper, I decided to stick with the lip knife. As usual, it doesn't hold a sharp edge long, and I'm thinking of trying another brand of lip knife if I can find one, but I can't find one. (I know that knives getting dull is normal, but I am becoming convinced that the quality of the tool does make a big difference.) Anyone know where one can buy a good lip knife? Thanks!

Jenny

[dw]

The days of really good steel in lip knives is pretty much past (if there ever was) unless you want to talk about a custom made knife.

But sometimes you can find some new, old knives on Ebay. I picked up a Harrington lip knife for a song the other day and the Harringtons usually have pretty fair steel.

Using a lip knife is not easy. In all the years I have had students in my shop...some of them with 20 and more years of experience with lip knives (in shoe repair)...I don't think I've ever had a student that wasn't a little intimidated by the lip knife. Hang in there...it will come--probably not soon, but it will come.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--Member HCC

[paul]

I'll admit to being one of the guys with 20 plus years experience with lip knives in shoe repair. And while I wouldn't say I was intimidated by the knife, I will say I was never really taught how to use it. The first shops I worked in were large enough that there were several of us, but proper tool handeling was never really part of my instruction. The 5-in-1 and the sander were used in it's place. Sewing machine maintenance either, for that matter.

Then for about 15 years I had my own shop, working by myself. Figuring things out for myself has always been my survival techniuque. I always thought a larger knife was better for my larger hands.

But since I spent three weeks with DW in September, I've started using my shorter blade and keep a rouge board handy all the time. It's amazing how a little instruction in proper handeling can change your relationship with a tool.

So, thanks for that too DW.

PK