Equipment Question

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dw
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Re: Equipment Question

#76 Post by dw » Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:08 am

Norma,

I'm not sure what you are referring to, but if the 30-1 has any presserfoot at all, it is a walking foot.

The way that the machine is set up, or engineered, is that the presserfoot lifts up and jumps forward during a certain part of the cycle of the stitch. Because the presserfoot has (usually) teeth on the bottom, when it makes contact again with the material, it then moves backward drawing the material with it.

This motion/action is almost the defining characteristic of a walking foot feed. Some post and flatbed machines will augment that action with feed dogs that also pull the material from underneath. The feed dogs must, of course be synchronized with the presserfoot.

Some flatbed and post and cylinder arm machines simply have a set of feed dogs that move material from underneath. The presserfoot is not engaged in feeding the material.

Some flatbed and post machines have feed wheels underneath and these may or may not be augmented with a driven presserfoot wheel.

None of these latter options are available with a patcher ...from any manufacturer.

If your 30-1 has a presserfoot and it is not feeding, there is something wrong with the way you have it adjusted or something wrong with the machine itself--maybe it is missing a part or perhaps it was mis-assembled the last time it was broken down and cleaned.

The quick and dirty check/adjustment is to see if there is a square (?) "ring" around the presserfoot connecting rod...just above the presserfoot. This should have a small knurled screw that will release the "ring" and allow it to slide up or down on the presserfoot connecting rod. Up gives longer stitches, down gives short stitches. Too far down and the presserfoot will not move at all.

Tight Stitches
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tommick
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Re: Equipment Question

#77 Post by tommick » Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:49 pm

I didn't know where to put this but it's an equipment question so I decided to put it here.

I'm moving from Florida to WA and I've pretty much figured out how to move all my equipment except for my Landis L.

I really don't want to try to sell it and find another on the West Coast.

Should I put it on a pallet for freight shipping? Should it be fully crated? Do I build a ramp to get it on a pallet? Can it be lifted with an engine hoist? Two of us were able to get it in and out of my pickup when I bought it but that sure was a challenge! Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks for any advice, Tom Mickel

large_shoemaker_at_large
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Re: Equipment Question

#78 Post by large_shoemaker_at_large » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:09 pm

Been there. Bolt it to a big pallet.
Rent a pallet jack or get some one with a fork lift to move it into the truck. To lift it to the pallet just use a crow bar and block with 2x4's going around one at a time till your same height as the pallet and Walk it over to the pallet.
I would error on the side of caution. you have about 1000 Lbs and if it went south you, may not be moving after all.

A tow truck could probably lift it too.
Enjoy you new home!!
Regards
Brendan

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Re: Equipment Question

#79 Post by jesselee » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:41 pm

Tom

Depending on if you can get it out of your old shop and into the new, Brendan is right. BUT, if the new shop only has a door, it\s better to break it down into sections and thats easier and cheaper for packing and moving. I have done mine (3 of 'em) countless times.

Cheers,

JesseLee

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Re: Equipment Question

#80 Post by dw » Tue Jun 30, 2009 3:55 pm

Tom,

The head is bolted to the stand. Two big bolts to the rear of the machine and just under all those cams.

Taking the head off is almost mandatory...it not only reduces the machine to two manageable pieces but it makes the machine significantly less top-heavy--to the point where it is no longer an issue, really. If you crate the head, perhaps bolting it to a two by four that will fit into the crate, you should have zero problems unless your movers are seriously common-sense impaired. DAMHIKT.

Tight Stitches
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tommick
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Re: Equipment Question

#81 Post by tommick » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:27 am

Thanks all, taking the head off is just what I needed to know. I've walked that monster around before and it's a handful!

Regards, Tom Mickel

huia

Re: Equipment Question

#82 Post by huia » Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:52 am

Hmmm ... here's where you guys might help me out ...
When I got my Landis the aluminum (?) tray on the right hand side was broken by previous owner. Do I get someone to weld this back together or do I look in a bone yard for another.

This is just the shelf that holds the swinging drawer so it doesn't interfere with using it but I might as well fix it ...

Thanks !
~ S

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Re: Equipment Question

#83 Post by dw » Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:02 am

You could call Arnold Kay at Melanie Machine in LA. He has a huge warehouse full of old machines and parts.

The phone number I have is: (323) 586-2090, but I think there is a toll free number that might be found by doing a "keyword search" here on the forum.

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Re: Equipment Question

#84 Post by jesselee » Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:12 am

Perhaps this is where I should have posted my inquiry. I have a Civil War period mcKay sole stitcher but it is missing the treadle. Anyone know where I can get one?

Cheers,

JesseLee

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Re: Equipment Question

#85 Post by dw » Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:04 pm

Jesse Lee,

Melanie again...for the same reasons--big warehouse, lots of old, salvaged equipment--he's got stuff ion there that only he know is there and only he knows how to find.

That said, I'm sure there's other outfits that have or had the same business model...Melanie is just the only one I've ever dealt with.

Tight Stitches
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Re: Equipment Question

#86 Post by jesselee » Mon Jul 06, 2009 3:51 pm

DW

Thanks, thats a lead I had forgotten about. I'll send pics when its all set up in a week or so and contact Melanie. I really don't want to go electric save for the line finishers and Landis sole stitcher.

Cheers,

JesseLee

ms_ra

Re: Equipment Question

#87 Post by ms_ra » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:32 pm

Seeking any - ALL advice on checking - testing my Adler 30-1. Other than check for free movement, I have NOT tried to 'sew', I dare not (lack sufficient knowledge to 'know' is something is WRONG.

When I searched there were 450+ 'hits' / results, but of the about 35 I reviewed, none helped. I don't have time to review 415 more.

I have an Adler 30-1 and a Singer 29K (poor quality) manuals, but neither help with testing - checking out the machine.

I'll be cleaning it while HOPING for assistance. PLEASE e-mail: dulca@duo-county.com to avoid delay in my being sure I will NOT damage the 30-1.

Thank you!

dlskidmore
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Re: Equipment Question

#88 Post by dlskidmore » Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:18 pm

I know nothing about your model, but most machines have a hand wheel. You should be able to thread it up, and turn the hand wheel, and see if the threads are interlocking or not. Then stick in material and repeat, adjusting tension, then go for full speed motorized sewing.

Caveat: my experience is with light-duty machines.

ms_ra

Re: Equipment Question

#89 Post by ms_ra » Thu Sep 06, 2012 5:08 pm

Denise Skidmore,

Thank you for your input - response! I also had one via e-mail which I also APPRECIATE.

My first question, (NO question is [are] 'dumb'), on the Adler 30-1 the hand wheel is on the R front, which way, CLOCKWISE or COUNTERCLOCKWISE does/should it be turned?

So far (last night) I squirted WD-40 and tuner clean (w light-minimal lubricant) in /on moving parts - lubrication? holes. I discovered the walking foot rotary head had/was seized. I managed free it up.

Not 'sure' if the timing is optimal, I 'know' (meaning I think) the needle may not extend low enough (ran out of time AND sufficient light) I
need to put a piece of leather under the foot to confirm stitching whether or not the upper & lower tension is set properly.

I haven't tried treadle power - operation yet. Turning the hand wheel is difficult enough, I suspect something either needs MORE lubrication - LESS friction, or .........?

I have surrendered to using a spare purse until mine is REPAIRED. So even if I must slowly turn the hand wheel and the upper and lower thread loop, even if loose, I can hand 'adjust' improper tension.

Can anyone provide step by step instructions for inspection / testing / minor, ideally QUICK lubrication AND/or adjustment to accomplish the
following in order of importance;
1. Be SURE I am not damaging - harming the machine
2. Be able to make the NEEDED repair(s) to my purse (can't live without it any longer)
3. Clean, lubricate, and adjust if-as needed

Any AND all info soon will permit - enable me to, at minimum accomplish repair of my purse which MOTIVATED me allocating time to determine the functional state of a machine that has been in my possession >Sad faceD admission< for over a year along with many shoe shop machines I acquired.

All be WELL & be SAFE!

Ms. RA

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