Search found 109 matches

by frank_jones
Sun Apr 21, 2013 8:11 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22951

Re: Closing techniques

Anne Marika Verploegh Chasse One simple way to get rid of the fuzzy edge is to make a raw edge skive. This is a very slightly skive on the edge at 45 degrees. The illustration is a cross section with the grain at the top. One way of doing this is with a french edger but if you are really skilled it ...
by frank_jones
Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:22 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43867

Re: Pattern making

All We have a five-day Pattern Cutting course from 4th to 8th March in Ashland, Oregon. The course tutor, Tim Wragg, will be flying in from England. He is a much better pattern cutter than I am. If anybody would like a detailed course brochure, just email your postal address to the address below wit...
by frank_jones
Tue Jan 15, 2013 4:20 pm
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: Announcements
Replies: 124
Views: 6577

Re: Announcements

All We have a five-day Pattern Cutting course from 4th to 8th March in Ashland, Oregon. The course tutor, Tim Wragg, will be flying in from England. He is a much better pattern cutter than I am. If anybody would like a detailed course brochure, just email your postal address to the address below wit...
by frank_jones
Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:32 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: Traveling
Replies: 44
Views: 2825

Re: Traveling

Rick Do enjoy your time in Bologna. I think some general information might be useful for anybody thinking of visiting an international trade exhibition. There are two types of exhibitions in the footwear trade. The first, and much the biggest group, is what I call footwear selling exhibitions. Proba...
by frank_jones
Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:31 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: HCC meeting in Oct.
Replies: 398
Views: 12769

Re: HCC meeting in Oct.

I am really looking forward to the AGM again this year. For those who may not have attended before, this meeting is the highlight of my year. Two whole days with presentations from other people who are crazy enough to want to be in the hand boot/shoemaking business or as a hobby. Forty or fifty peop...
by frank_jones
Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:26 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Shoe machines
Replies: 538
Views: 29576

Re: Shoe machines

Rosemary Antel You are right in saying that we are fortunate in having books by Golding and Thornton available on the HCC site but a major part of the thanks should, in my opinion, be targeted elsewhere. All the work of scanning and cleaning up of text and illustrations was carried out by one indivi...
by frank_jones
Fri Jul 13, 2012 8:47 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43867

Re: Pattern making

Zac I agree with Lance and DW. However, perhaps a couple of diagrams might make things a little clearer. They come from a book on pattern cutting taken from the chapter about a high pull-on boot. 14790.gif 14791.gif They show the line deviating from that normal used for shoes quite well. Frank Jones...
by frank_jones
Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:02 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: THE GOOD OLD DAYS?
Replies: 108
Views: 6652

Re: THE GOOD OLD DAYS?

I might have another angle on the idea of pegging by machine in 1804. The machinery used to make pegged footwear for military footwear was attributed to Marc Isambard Brunel. Marc Brunel is famous in UK history for two things 1) He built the first successful underwater tunnel (under the River Thames...
by frank_jones
Wed Mar 14, 2012 10:24 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Insole leather
Replies: 385
Views: 24564

Re: Insole leather

All I agree with DW that “we really should distinguish Goodyear construction from hand-welted.” Goodyear Welted footwear is footwear made using the machinery which was perfected and promoted by Charles Goodyear during the last thirty years of the 19th century. My understanding is that Charles Goodye...
by frank_jones
Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:30 am
Forum: The Registry
Topic: The Registry
Replies: 542
Views: 30519

Re: The Registry

Brian Goodman

Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. We are a friendly bunch but most of the good discussions are generated by newbies who ask questions.

Ask away, we don’t bite!

Frank Jones
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com
by frank_jones
Tue Feb 07, 2012 4:10 am
Forum: The Registry
Topic: The Registry
Replies: 542
Views: 30519

Re: The Registry

Joost De Cock Welcome to the Crispin Colloquy. I would like to endorse the suggestions from Lance. Last making is a whole other set of skills and there is so much to learn just in shoemaking without taking on more. One further suggestion to add to the list of last suppliers. The Kopitarna Company in...
by frank_jones
Sat Jan 21, 2012 3:26 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bottoming techniques
Replies: 524
Views: 29303

Re: Bottoming techniques

Jake Great to see you back in the boot/shoemaking workshop more and more! I am a little confused about the soling material you call Neoprene. Neoprene was a trade mark Dupont used in the 1940’s and 50’s. Based on appearance, which is not very reliable, I think your sole is what footwear people in mo...
by frank_jones
Thu Jan 19, 2012 12:47 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43867

Re: Pattern making

Episode two Then we started to get people asking if they could buy a copy of our pattern cutting notes. I was not prepared to do this because the notes were written as an extra for people who had the benefit of attending our course. Without that, the notes would be of limited value. Then came the ob...
by frank_jones
Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:49 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43867

Re: Pattern making

There has been some discussion about the relationship or link between H.J. Patrick’s - Modern Pattern Cutting and Design and the book that carries my name. The original Pattern Cutter’s Handbook started out as a selection of course notes, we used at Accrington and Rossendale College, where I worked ...
by frank_jones
Tue Nov 15, 2011 11:43 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bottoming techniques
Replies: 524
Views: 29303

Re: Bottoming techniques

What an interesting discussion. Several books have been mentioned as sources of information for the make up or use of various substances we use in shoemaking. I would like to add another which should be on the list. As readers of the “Textbook of Footwear Manufacture” by John Thornton (available in ...
by frank_jones
Tue Sep 27, 2011 4:20 pm
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: HCC meeting in Oct.
Replies: 398
Views: 12769

Re: HCC meeting in Oct.

DW Well you certainly caught me out there. I must have been half sleep when I typed that posting. It took me a little while to find Penobscot Bay in Maine. Transatlantic flights from Manchester to New York (No, not Manchester NH, THE Manchester) often fly in over Nova Scotia or along the coast of Ma...
by frank_jones
Sun Sep 25, 2011 11:07 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: HCC meeting in Oct.
Replies: 398
Views: 12769

Re: HCC meeting in Oct.

Just a brief note to say - looking forward to meeting people again at the Annual HCC Get-Together four weeks from now. It is technically the AGM (which we do hold) but the interesting stuff is everything else. If you have never come before, you are really missing something special - meeting all thos...
by frank_jones
Wed Jul 06, 2011 3:36 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Tools of the Trade
Replies: 1853
Views: 61891

Re: Tools of the Trade

James Roberts

I have now had a chance to look at an enlarged version of picture three and I still think it probably is a rough rounder but I am not really sure. If it came from a shoe repair shop then it almost certainly is.

Frank Jones
frank.jones@noblefootwear.com
by frank_jones
Wed Jul 06, 2011 1:41 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Tools of the Trade
Replies: 1853
Views: 61891

Re: Tools of the Trade

James Roberts Your machines from the top are :- 1) Blake - looks like a 1960’s period model, from Italy I suspect 2) Outsole Stitcher from Standard Engineering in Leicester UK. In the USA most hand shoemakers call this type of machine a “Curve Needle Machine”. 3) A Shoe Repairer’s Rough Rounder and ...
by frank_jones
Mon May 30, 2011 8:49 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: One "Last" Question
Replies: 1811
Views: 53653

Re: One "Last" Question

Geraldine Rabey The lathe that lastmakers use is a copying lathe. It has three spindles. The model is mounted in one. The other two have blocks or wood (or plastic) to produce the copies. The lathe takes the shape of the model and produces another identical copy on the second spindle. At the same ti...
by frank_jones
Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:42 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: Announcements
Replies: 124
Views: 6577

Re: Announcements

DW I am really pleased we are getting notice of the AGM details so early. I do hope the Board can be encouraged to make this the standard in the future. It is so helpful to have such complete details announced as early as the previous December. Now I just have to get the funds together for the trans...
by frank_jones
Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:07 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Books, Manuals, Publications
Replies: 362
Views: 14510

Re: Books, Manuals, Publications

Marc Carlson Wow! I know you spoke in Delavan about the HCC Library being “up” at Tulsa soon, but somehow seeing the first few publications up there has brought it home to me. For years we have talked about making the collection of literature more available but this is a ground breaking thing. Soon ...
by frank_jones
Fri Nov 19, 2010 12:01 pm
Forum: The Registry
Topic: The Registry
Replies: 542
Views: 30519

Re: The Registry

Eliza West A BIG welcome to the Colloquy. It sounds as if you have made a good start. Please feel free to ask questions. There is so much expertise here which you can tap into and we don’t bite! It might seem a little intensive at times but that is just people trying to make sure nothing is missed. ...
by frank_jones
Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:39 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Books, Manuals, Publications
Replies: 362
Views: 14510

Re: Books, Manuals, Publications

Marlietta Schock Many thanks for your kind words. As you probably know, the book is a complete re-write of the “Pattern Cutter’s Handbook” the first edition of which was published in 1991. The hard bit of writing technical books on shoemaking is getting the balance right. In many ways the technical ...
by frank_jones
Mon Nov 01, 2010 4:38 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Top patterns/stitching
Replies: 360
Views: 18495

Re: Top patterns/stitching

Apologies for not spotting the details of this discussion before. I am not at all sure about the edge treatment being called French Cord. I agree with Tim Skyrme. I think this is French Binding. The binding is simply pulled over very hard. Because the outside upper leather is quite thick and probabl...