Search found 43 matches

by Herr_Leeb
Mon Oct 03, 2016 4:50 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Just finished my latest project. Cap toe Derbys in black calf skin, Rendenbach soles,made on a customized vintage factory last from the 30's. Derby.jpg Really nice. Did you do a spade sole as well? You are right, spaded soles would have worked nicely with this last. But no, I made them just plain a...
by Herr_Leeb
Sun Oct 02, 2016 11:04 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Just finished my latest project. Cap toe Derbys in black calf skin, Rendenbach soles,made on a customized vintage factory last from the 30's.
Derby.jpg
by Herr_Leeb
Thu Jan 14, 2016 10:08 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

There is one easy way to avoid broken needles when working with Stingray: Handcrank the sewing machine and go very slowly. This way the needle has a chance to slide off the pebbles. You're right, that works...sort of...and I have no objection to handcranking if necessary (speed kills). But I'm an "...
by Herr_Leeb
Wed Jan 13, 2016 10:28 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

I'm not crazy about Stingray either, it's a bit too flashy for me and I don't think I will wear these very often. To be honest, I initially attempted to make seamless wholecuts with it - and failed. I don't think its possible because of the pebbles... But it has it's advantages. No creasing and very...
by Herr_Leeb
Wed Jan 13, 2016 9:38 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

I will take a break from shoe making for a while, so this is probably my last pair . Blue Stingray and black calf.
Thank you all for your feedback and advice, it has been a pleasure.
Cheers,
A.
Stingray.JPG
Stingray2.JPG
by Herr_Leeb
Mon Dec 28, 2015 7:04 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Fascinating work.
You are recreating shoes which were without a doubt made by the Berlutis of their time, not an easy feat. Kudos!!!
Your website is very interesting as well, love it.
Cheers,
A.
by Herr_Leeb
Fri Dec 18, 2015 5:27 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Alexander, Seamless!! Nice! What leather is that? Thank you DW and Paul, your feedback means a lot to me ! The upper was sold to me as "Very good quality calf" at my local cobbler supply/leather store. Further questions about it resulted in a blank stare... It is about 1.2 mm thick, if you bend it ...
by Herr_Leeb
Thu Dec 17, 2015 9:20 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Fresh off the last...
Seamless.JPG
Seamless2.JPG
Seamless3.JPG
As usual, more pictures and details on http://www.shoes.alexanderleeb.com
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Dec 12, 2015 10:55 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Now you got me inspired....thinking about making a seamless Wellington...out of a whale penis, that could work :)
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Dec 12, 2015 9:30 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Classy boots DW! They look very sleek and elegant to me, no trace of problem feet. Did you make the last yourself?
Here comes the amateur question: Is the Wellington the boot version of a wholecut?
Love the clean lines...
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Dec 12, 2015 7:15 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bottoming techniques
Replies: 524
Views: 27218

Re: Bottoming techniques

Dear Paul,

thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions so quickly and comprehensively.
Your kindness is very much appreciated!
A. :beers:
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Dec 12, 2015 5:32 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bottoming techniques
Replies: 524
Views: 27218

Re: Bottoming techniques

First of all, this is what I did. Not how one does it. OK? Your fusion of Balkan and Wild West definitely created a very unique and appealing showpiece. Great idea! I've seen a similar technique in Italian shoes, where they pull up the leather in the waist. Did not care for it much, but your versio...
by Herr_Leeb
Fri Dec 11, 2015 10:22 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Very cool, looking forward to studying your pictures.
Are the exposed toes a design feature only or are there also technical reasons why the sole does not go all the way around the toe?
Thanks for sharing!
by Herr_Leeb
Fri Dec 11, 2015 6:55 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Gorgeous, magnificent boots, a great showcase of excellent craftsmanship.
I am awestruck!
Do you have by any chance some photo documentation of the techniques you used that you are willing to share or are you going to let me agonize on how the hell you made them ?
Congratulations!!!!
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Nov 07, 2015 11:47 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Beautiful, clean work DW...
specially like the idea with the scotch tape :clap:
by Herr_Leeb
Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:51 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

Alexander, Nice looking shoes. FWIW, I have been making "shaped" topline bead for ages...There are some photos here somewhere on the forum that detail my approach. Goes to show great minds think alike. :cool: Thanks, DW ! LOL...looks like I could have saved myself some brain cells instead of reinve...
by Herr_Leeb
Thu Nov 05, 2015 8:19 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61764

Re: The Gallery

My latest project, oxfords in black calf with crocodile inserts.

I used some - I believe - unconventional methods on these shoes and put some pictures on http://shoes.alexanderleeb.com
Oxfords.JPG
by Herr_Leeb
Thu Oct 15, 2015 7:45 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bottoming techniques
Replies: 524
Views: 27218

Re: The Gallery

Valeriy, having experimented with the same idea in the past, I can say that it definitely has it's advantages and no disadvantages, especially on elegant dress shoes with a pointed toe. It enables you to make a much nicer toe since you don't have to force the leather into shape. Attention to small d...
by Herr_Leeb
Sat Sep 12, 2015 12:02 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: One "Last" Question
Replies: 1811
Views: 51397

Re: One "Last" Question

All, please ignore my previous question. Unfortunately it is not possible in this forum to delete daft postings. For those who are curious... The problem is most likely a combination of various factors, me being overly concerned is one of them. Since the other test shoe looks much better and has onl...
by Herr_Leeb
Fri Sep 11, 2015 7:24 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: One "Last" Question
Replies: 1811
Views: 51397

Re: One "Last" Question

Here is an issue I am currently struggling with. The last I intend to use for my next project is a vintage factory last which delivers great fitting and decent looking shoes when I use thicker leather. Hardly any creases. I made only very minor modifications, also shortened and rounded out the toes ...
by Herr_Leeb
Wed Sep 09, 2015 8:07 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

DW, judging from the pictures of your work on your website and in the gallery, I think it's fair to say that your standards are beyond reproach. I believe the issue is more that we are talking about two different things here. A boot tends to become more beautiful over time. As an adolescent back in ...
by Herr_Leeb
Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:16 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

DW, it's all good, no offense taken. :beers: Honestly, I truly enjoy reading your posts and am always looking forward to a reply from you. So please keep 'em coming, you seem to be the person who reads and cares the most and I deeply appreciate that. I also do understand that you stubbornly refuse t...
by Herr_Leeb
Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:56 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

DW, I hear you loud and clear...and I am kind of sorry I ask you at all. You are probably the wrong people for my amateurish requests. But I did warn you in my registration that I will have inane questions. You did mention that you use backing seldom, that means you did at least once. So which mater...
by Herr_Leeb
Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:49 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

That gives me an idea...
I could glue in some fabric backing at the time when I put in the toe puff using the same paste instead of glueing it onto the upper before lasting. That way the glue will dry in the final shape of the shoe.

Would there be anything wrong with that approach?
by Herr_Leeb
Mon Sep 07, 2015 8:38 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

DW, Well, I am not an apostle of Laszlo Vass either, but he was my only resource on that topic. Are you suggesting to use a mixture of carpenter's glue and wallpaper paste (like Tim Skyrme uses for the toe puffs) to glue on the fabric? Or what else would be appropriate in your experience? And the qu...