Search found 1292 matches

by das
Wed Dec 06, 2017 5:46 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Lasts
Replies: 605
Views: 22693

Re: Lasts

Have you tried contacting a US firm who makes ANSI footwear and ask them where they get them?
by das
Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:22 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 34854

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

Have a long one for flattening seams in boot legs before lasting, but took it off the bench. Kept bashing into it.
by das
Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:16 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 10933

Re: "64 to the inch"

Damien,

Great to see your efforts at achieving this. I think the antique 64/" stitching was done with silk thread. But more than finding thread to do it, I would think, is finding a leather today that would hold-up to that many stitches per inch.
by das
Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:23 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 107
Views: 7786

Re: Looking for...

Duncan,

Sadly my "finer" rejects were burnt in the shop fireplace while sorting-out the stiff ones. The source in Pakistan (scroll way up) still offers them--closer to you than the colonies. If you don't specify 8" extra stiff, you'll get a mix including more of the thin ones you're after.
by das
Mon Nov 06, 2017 5:38 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: THE GOOD OLD DAYS?
Replies: 108
Views: 6444

Re: THE GOOD OLD DAYS?

Nice!
by das
Thu Oct 26, 2017 5:25 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11131

Re: Through the Mists of Time...

Paul,

Which question exactly?
by das
Fri Oct 13, 2017 5:55 am
Forum: The HCC Bulletin Board
Topic: 2017 Annual General Meeting
Replies: 0
Views: 119

2017 Annual General Meeting

The Honourable Cordwainers' Company is pleased to announce the 33rd Annual General Meeting in cooperation with The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA October 27-29, 2017 We are looking forward to a great program at this year’s Thirty-third Annual General Meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers' Company, in...
by das
Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:56 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Just to clarify: the number of men's 18thc wood heels disembodied to study the depth of "cup" are like 1 or 2. But IMO, no, women's wood heels were not cupped deep enough to keep the wearer's heel in place. Yup, on the women's extended heels-cum-shank-pieces. After you handle some you'll see what I ...
by das
Tue Sep 05, 2017 4:33 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

By "heel dome", do you mean the concave "cup" of the wooden heel Garsault mentions? On 18thc women's shoes that are in pieces, I've seen, neither the "cup" of the wood heel block, nor the convexity of 18thc last bottoms, IMO, would be enough to lock the heel on center. The wood heel was merely held ...
by das
Tue Sep 05, 2017 4:16 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Square Sewing Awls
Replies: 34
Views: 3510

Re: Square Sewing Awls

Sounds like you've got them well under control. The trick with "stitching" awls (square points) is to avoid twisting or wiggling them through, as we want to do instinctively. They need to just push through like a hot knife through butter, else the blades will snap-off.
by das
Thu Aug 31, 2017 4:20 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Square Sewing Awls
Replies: 34
Views: 3510

Re: Square Sewing Awls

Any/all awls can benefit from a polish w/ 600 grit wet-dry paper--the slicker the blade, the less effort poking it through. After you sharpen the "square" tip the way you like it on a fine stone, take a scrap of 5oz. veg leather, wet it, and form it into a piece around 1.5" wide by 4" long. Fold it ...
by das
Wed Aug 16, 2017 12:00 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Hi Sharon, Busy week here, so no chance to dive into Plunknett or Devlin. In fact it might be better for all viewing/reading here if you were able to scan the images/passages of text and post them so everybody would know what we were talking about--everybody might not have access to these books to s...
by das
Mon Aug 14, 2017 7:56 am
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: "...a great way forward?"
Replies: 94
Views: 4346

Re: "...a great way forward?"

DW, I guess I'm coming at this from a slightly different perspective, that of pre-mechanized, traditional shoemaking (e.g. historical/reproduction). A late colleague coined the phrase: "comparing hand-made stuff, to machine-made, is like comparing home-cooked meals to TV dinners". The former being o...
by das
Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:46 am
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: "...a great way forward?"
Replies: 94
Views: 4346

Re: "...a great way forward?"

Here is an essay that may perhaps of some interest...Peter was a former colleague of mine at CWF, and I have enormous respect for his insight (despite he’s a mere blacksmith) ;>)

https://happyhavenforge.wordpress.com/p ... mentality/
by das
Tue Aug 08, 2017 1:24 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Lasts
Replies: 605
Views: 22693

Re: Lasts

Bruce, Welcome back. Glad you figured out to get back on-line here. I have no idea where to get steel toes, however, be careful. Just because you make steel-toed footwear, it's not ANSI certified. You, the maker, have to get ANSI certified to make it, or you can't sell it as ANSI. Colonial Williamsb...
by das
Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:01 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon,

Stay tuned, as I plan to e-publish a PDF on here this Fall of yet another 18thc how-to text, sadly with no photos, but a few copper plates.
by das
Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:39 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon, here's a link you might find interesting--lots of women's 18thc high heels: https://historicalcostume.wordpress.com ... la-moment/
by das
Fri Aug 04, 2017 6:22 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

At least I didn't type "heal" for heel, or "soul" for sole. I see this a lot, and in print too. Wonder what editors are smoking these days.
by das
Thu Aug 03, 2017 1:35 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon, Thanks for the gratuitous plug for the 'Ubiquitous Last' HCC video. I'm glad it was helpful. Many more good antique lasts have surfaced since we made that, it's probably due for a do-over. And without attempting the "quote format" (sorry DW): Stability--of course no shank-board in the 18thc,...
by das
Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:25 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon, "Copying original lasts: so there is is no alternative. The issue is availability of lasts to copy within date range. Photos are helpful if nothing else at all is available. Hell ratio is always an issue. In a post on the Forum, you pointed out that some early shoemakers put heels on flat la...
by das
Sat Jul 29, 2017 3:47 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Lasts, like shoes and shoe constructions, have gone through a distinct evolution, changing over the last 2000 years. What the Romans thought was a "good" last design (1stc Mainz), earlier(?) examples from Russia, then on through Medieval ones (Marc Carlson's excellent website shows many of these) ch...
by das
Wed Jul 26, 2017 12:21 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon, Glad to help. I think THE most reasonable course is to 3-D scan an antique last and have lasts made from 3-D printed plastic model. Bear in mind, too, often, lasts can only be turned 2-3 sizes up/down from the model size maintaining proportions--you can't scan in a kid's size 5 and ask for a...
by das
Tue Jul 25, 2017 11:55 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009
Replies: 65
Views: 3894

Re: The Art of the Shoemaker--Garsault, 1767, Saguto, 2009

Sharon, Historically when lasts outlived their usefulness they were handy firewood, thus it's a miracle any survive. That said there's a fine 1770s set, a small run of 7 sizes, all belonging to a shoemaker named Thos. Ruggles, (b.1750 d.1808), near you at the Hardwick Historical Society, MA. If you ...