Search found 5370 matches

by dw
Sun Dec 10, 2017 6:47 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 34820

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

As a bootmaker, one of the prime directives is to model the last with the notion that there will be no laces to adjust fit, firmly in mind. This means that the last has to mirror the foot pretty closely with regard to girths, in particular. Making the transition to shoes becomes a bit problematic fo...
by dw
Fri Dec 01, 2017 10:21 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 107
Views: 7778

Re: Looking for...

Just a quick update...today I split a 6lb. nylon bristle (.009"). Just needed a sharper knife, Still can't do 5lb. And FWIW, I have some fine wild European boars's bristles sent to me by Serge Volken some years ago...all of 4" long, if that. I mic'ed them out with a kind of rinky-dink device for mea...
by dw
Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:59 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 34820

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

I've always used a long piece of pvc (?) pipe for that but there the sideseams are more or less straight. If I wasn't so short of space, I would have positioned this so that it didn't hang out over the edge of the bench at all. But as is my 5-in-1 is just to the left (and out of the picture). Fortun...
by dw
Fri Dec 01, 2017 8:16 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 34820

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

I suppose everyone has one of these but this is my version:
20171129_133047 (1280 x 1024).jpg
20171129_133234 (1280 x 1024).jpg
20171129_133321 (1280 x 1024).jpg
by dw
Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:21 pm
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 107
Views: 7778

Re: Looking for...

Duncan, Well, I can't answer for "parallel". I know what you're saying but on the bristles I have the tips are split into many 'strands" and from what I remember as a composite they have always seemed about the same thickness as the main shaft except at the very ends. No worries, I admire your devot...
by dw
Thu Nov 30, 2017 9:00 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 10904

Re: "64 to the inch"

das, I always thought so too...not so much because I have any great historical knowledge but simply because linen is so coarse. That said, some of the same problems as with linen or hemp applies to silk as well--there is long "staple" silk and, what do they call it? "tow"? I have some commercially s...
by dw
Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:05 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 1233
Views: 35460

Re: Looking for...

Anyone looking for really high quality shoe laces in variety of colours...look no further:

Strupai Laces
by dw
Thu Nov 30, 2017 7:59 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 21235

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

Damien, Interesting! But, if you don't mind, I have several questions: First, are you sure these are real hemp? I don't speak or read French...but at one point in time linen thread was often referred to as "hemp" in English parlance. Sometimes even on the box. Second, how does a #4 compare with a li...
by dw
Wed Nov 29, 2017 7:03 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 107
Views: 7778

Re: Looking for...

I know this will sound rude (don't mean it that way) and somewhat "unthinkable" for those who revel in Traditional techniques...but nylon monofilament comes in very fine diameters--5lb. (2,4kg) is @ .008" in diameter (.20mm). That's pretty fine. I have split 12lb. and I believe I could split 8lb.. M...
by dw
Sat Nov 25, 2017 1:01 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Tools of the Trade
Replies: 1849
Views: 57370

Re: Tools of the Trade

Damian,

Welcome.

Nice collection! Do you use them? Are you a shoemaker?
by dw
Mon Nov 13, 2017 6:28 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Tools of the Trade
Replies: 1849
Views: 57370

Re: Tools of the Trade

I'm not sure anyone knows what that tool was really for. If anyone does it would be Al, but, IIRC, he expressed some uncertainty in his comments in Salaman's book. I could be mistaken.
by dw
Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:14 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 30307

Re: Great Leather!

I thought I would share this resource with folks here: From what I can see this is a US base grindery that is trying to cater to high end shoe and bootmakers rather than shoe repair. Some beautiful European upper leathers (including vegs) and some unique tools and interesting adjuncts (cement, etc.)...
by dw
Thu Oct 26, 2017 6:15 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61895

Re: The Gallery

Thanks, Jake. Against all odds.
by dw
Wed Oct 25, 2017 8:33 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23840

Re: Lasting

Final image in the seamless wholecut photo essay above now posted in the Gallery.
by dw
Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:54 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: St. Crispin's Day
Replies: 54
Views: 3761

Re: St. Crispin's Day

This is St. Crispin's Day--the Shoemaker's Holiday. Lock the door, blow out the dandiprat, and pour yersel' a wee dram. Slainte Mhath
old-engravings-depicted-saints-crispin-and-crispinian-the-book-history-c95gx9.jpg
by dw
Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:28 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61895

Re: The Gallery

In honour of St. Crispin's Day this pair of shoes...

Seamless wholecut, veg retan calf, 1" heel (photo essay here)

Not my best work but a lot of new (to me) stuff that I tried... and they fit!!
20171011_095432.jpg
by dw
Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:46 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22117

Re: Closing techniques

Double - sided tape will work but be aware that some of those tapes adhere better than others. Personally, I don't regard tape as the best solution for mounting piping (topline bead). If I can, I always use rubber cement but there is no guarantee even then. Sanding the bead lightly prior to applying...
by dw
Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:32 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 34820

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

Yes. However just over the puff.

I used to use a contact cement, then went to press cement, and now mostly use Hirschkleber. Point is that the glue is not all that critical--it doesn't contribute much to the structural integrity of the shoe. So a paste (or Hirschkleber) does fine.
by dw
Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:15 am
Forum: The HCC Bulletin Board
Topic: The HCC Bulletin Board
Replies: 145
Views: 20902

Re: The HCC Bulletin Board

The Honourable Cordwainers’ Company is pleased to announce the 33rd Annual General Meeting in cooperation with The Mercer Museum Doylestown, Pennsylvania October 27-29, 2017 We are pleased to announce the Thirty-third Annual General Meeting of the Honourable Cordwainers' Company, in cooperation wit...
by dw
Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:40 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61895

Re: The Gallery

Thanks for posting that, Martin. I am looking forward to some time to study it in more depth.
by dw
Thu Sep 07, 2017 11:33 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61895

Re: The Gallery

I second that...would love to see the "tunnel stitch". No one has ever covered that on this forum.
by dw
Tue Sep 05, 2017 5:22 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Square Sewing Awls
Replies: 34
Views: 3506

Re: Square Sewing Awls

Yes! That's so hard to do, such a hard habit to break. It's also why the shape and size of the haft is so important. A haft can facilitate that smooth straight push or make it almost impossible to avoid wiggling the awl. If you're inseaming, wiggling the sewing awl makes the sharp point swing in a w...
by dw
Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:15 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Insoles and inseaming
Replies: 426
Views: 16610

Re: Insoles and inseaming

I suspect that a full welt is not only widely considered, but actually more appropriate for, a more "casual" or "country" shoe than what would be ordinarily regarded as "dress". So probably more appropriate for a heavy double-soled longwing derby than even a heavily brogued Oxford.
by dw
Thu Aug 31, 2017 3:47 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Square Sewing Awls
Replies: 34
Views: 3506

Re: Square Sewing Awls

Curt, I'm not Duncan but until the real one comes along... I use square awls regularly. They are sharpened only at the tip. Some like the edge to be nearly perpendicular to the shaft just below it. Some like it to be sharpened with a little bit of an angle so that the pointed tip enters the leather ...
by dw
Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:07 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23840

Re: Lasting

First, the counter doesn't have to be sopping. I'm sure you know that but lasting it dry doesn't work either. So, I would say that it needs to dry out to the point where it is almost back to dry looking but still moist in the interior. this state was always called "tempered" by the folks I learned f...