Search found 96 matches

by producthaus
Tue May 29, 2012 8:29 pm
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 21235

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

I am still looking to sell my complete toolset, great for someone looking to get everything they need all at once. I do not want to split up anything for individual sale. I am located in san francisco. Please PM or contact me via email to continue the conversation. 14705.jpg There are probably a few...
by producthaus
Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:56 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Shoe machines
Replies: 538
Views: 27878

Re: Shoe machines

Skiving and post machine are gone, tools are still available.
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by producthaus
Wed Aug 17, 2011 11:35 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Shoe machines
Replies: 538
Views: 27878

Re: Shoe machines

I'd like to offer up sale of the following items: Artisan 5110 post-bed machine (like new) Artisan skiving machine (like new) Complete set of shoemaking tools - mostly Barnsley, some C.S. Osborne, about 30 - 40 pieces total. While maybe not the right forum, I also have a few hides of Horween (Latigo...
by producthaus
Sun Jul 03, 2011 4:05 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22115

Re: Closing techniques

What is the proper procedure for closing a balmoral boot? I am questioning my first attempt : 0) sew lining parts together to make complete lining 1) sew tongue to lining 2) sew quarters together at back seam 3) sew vamp together at back seam 4) glue/sew quarters to lining along top seam 5) sew #4 t...
by producthaus
Wed Apr 06, 2011 7:05 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 30307

Re: Great Leather!

What kind of leather do people use for test fitters? Lower quality calf?
by producthaus
Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:30 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Seeking knowledge or survey
Replies: 793
Views: 22103

Re: Seeking knowledge or survey

I've seen a few videos on youtube of factory workers hand-sewing moccasin construction, but I cannot find them again via search.

Does anyone have links?
by producthaus
Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:06 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

I am still looking for a source of learning about true-moc patterning. Here is an image I found of the underside of a vamp...perhaps enough detail to draft a pattern while not completely stumbling around in the dark. http://www.feitdirect.com/blog/2010/05/in-production-hand-sewing-the-moc-mid/ 13469...
by producthaus
Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:33 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

<t>I'd like to try a true moc construction version of a chukka or balmoral, does anyone have any sources of learning - i.e., books, videos etc of this type of pattern? An actual flat pattern would be the best. <br/> <br/> The main part that is tricky is the vamp, as I can't really see the underside ...
by producthaus
Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:08 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21789

Re: Glues and Cements

You can get Bontex and Texon from Lyn Flex @ http://www.lynflex.com/
by producthaus
Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:26 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 30307

Re: Great Leather!

Where can I find leather with this type of satin/wet finish? How would I describe this leather if I wanted to ask a supplier for it?
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by producthaus
Thu Jan 06, 2011 12:39 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21789

Re: Glues and Cements

I will try and find some Upaco, does it bond on contact? I guess my worry is that lasting requires a working window where the glue is not quite dry and you can make adjustments before letting the glue cure.
by producthaus
Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:12 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21789

Re: Glues and Cements

<t>I did a test with the below variables to see how I could make a pair of shoes using Horween Chromexcel (natural). Forget cement-lasted, all I wanted was to be able to glue the folded edge, during lasting until inseaming, and stiffeners... <br/> <br/> Surfaces: <br/> Grain-to-grain <br/> Grain-to-...
by producthaus
Sat Jan 01, 2011 5:19 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Insoles and inseaming
Replies: 426
Views: 16609

Re: Insoles and inseaming

What is the reasoning for stopping the inseam ribbing just behind the joint, VS allowing it to continue a bit further, like in the picture below...
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by producthaus
Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:43 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 30307

Re: Great Leather!

Does anyone have a source for off-white or gray waxed suede? Horween carries this style as 'Chamois', color 'Perla', but they have not run it in some time.
by producthaus
Tue Dec 21, 2010 4:19 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

Rick,

I like the middle method, I will try this. Does this picture look about right? Red lines are stitching.

EDIT: The tape should be between the lining and upper, sorry.
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12583.png (14.45 KiB) Viewed 657 times


(Message edited by producthaus on December 21, 2010)
by producthaus
Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:29 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

Gotcha, that is what Tim was also describing, right?

Here is a better picture for a whole cut lining, with +/- 1" as Janne described. Is this the correct fold line?
12579.jpg
by producthaus
Mon Dec 20, 2010 2:37 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

Thanks, Janne. I think this new image is the correct way to pivot the lines, with +1" on the outside and -1" on the inside. It was a little misleading to show the pattern as a regular quarter, when, as you mention, it will look the same as the whoe cut upper. 12571.jpg Tim - thanks, I will try this ...
by producthaus
Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:08 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41154

Re: Pattern making

Thanks DW. As mentioned in the Lasting forum, I had trouble with the heel, in part because I had the lining seam and upper seam right on top of each other. In the shoe below, you can see a bulge at the heel in the back where the seams are bunching up...how would I make a pattern that moves the linin...
by producthaus
Sat Dec 18, 2010 10:03 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23838

Re: Lasting

<t>What are the details of "lasting the lining first"? Do I glue/nail then wait for the lining to dry? <br/> <br/> Do the pleats need to be skived off before lasting the counter and upper? Seems like the lining will be in the way and needs to be managed before lasting the upper? <br/> <br/> I may be...
by producthaus
Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:51 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23838

Re: Lasting

<t>Thanks DW, I will try lasting the liner first. I wasn't sure if a 20mm lasting allowance was a hard rule, and increasing that amount meant one is cheating or ignoring a problem somewhere else. <br/> <br/> For example, I added a small buildup to this shoe on the lateral side, could I have re-used ...
by producthaus
Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:31 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23838

Re: Lasting

Thanks for the answers.

I lasted a test fitter with 4-5oz horween upper and 2-3oz horse front liner. It seems that the materials run out of space to go, and the pleats run over the feather edge. Any suggestions?

The same issue happens at the toe.
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by producthaus
Wed Dec 15, 2010 4:13 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23838

Re: Lasting

<t>DW, <br/> <br/> I have not purchased a jack yet for inseaming, welting, or even breaking the last to remove the shoe, so I am in need of something. <br/> <br/> I am thinking about Dick Anderson's inseaming jack, and it looks like I could (by removing the forepart metal arm) also use it for breaki...
by producthaus
Sun Dec 12, 2010 4:56 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Fitting the Foot
Replies: 434
Views: 16195

Re: Fitting the Foot

Here is a pedograph with measurements and tracing of the original last treadline (pen held at 60 degrees), no build-ups. It appears the treadline of the original last does match up fairly well to my foot, is this correct? However, the foot outline (pencil at 90degrees) is wider? Joint Foot : 27.5cm ...
by producthaus
Fri Dec 10, 2010 10:36 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Toe boxes
Replies: 226
Views: 12888

Re: Toe boxes

I am having Keystone Leather make a die for stamping toe boxes, can someone post or send me a few dimensions, like height and width, which the die will be based off.

These will be more men's dress shoes.

Attached is two possible shapes, can anyone comment on preference?
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by producthaus
Wed Dec 08, 2010 12:27 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Around the shop
Replies: 178
Views: 8480

Re: Around the shop

My work does have a 3D printer, so cost was about $1 per INCH, or $30 total for all three tools. Shapeways, Ponoko, etc is $.80 - $2.70+ per CENTEMETER, or about $150+ per tool.