Search found 95 matches

by fclasse
Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:47 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

DW, I'm flattered by the compliment, and I'd be happy to oblige...after I make about two dozen more pairs of 18th century shoes! As far as the interrogation, I think that we all need to be open to new techniques and criticism, as there are really three venues to improving one's craft: repetition, re...
by fclasse
Tue Aug 18, 2015 9:54 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

I'll definitely have to head over to LACMA the next chance I'm in Southern CA. Interesting info on that repro shoe - I definitely thought that the construction was a little odd compared with typical 18th century work, but it was nestled amongst all of their other amazing 18th century shoes. I figure...
by fclasse
Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:56 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

Probably my favorite one, but then again, I'm biased =) I love the clean lines here which makes it almost look like a modern 70s loafer. The leather is very fine, so I believe the stitching all around the opening is essential to reinforce it and make it a bit more robust (green!!!). I looks as if th...
by fclasse
Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:45 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

This is a great one, since the heel is basically falling apart, and you can see the interior construction. A nail in the heel again, seems deliberate, and it looks like there is a split reinforcement piece which ends at the heel breast. Interestingly, the front part of the sole looks like they're hi...
by fclasse
Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:33 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

This one is definitely pretty fine, though I didn't think to measure - cloth of silver strip makes a stunning impression, as do the appliqued bands.

Image

Image
by fclasse
Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:29 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: "64 to the inch"
Replies: 169
Views: 11847

Re: "64 to the inch"

None of the pieces I'll be posting are really close to 64 to the inch, but since we're on the subject of shoe pr0n, I was fortunate a couple of years back to visit the Bata, which has a stunning array of 18th century shoes. I hope I don't overwhelm with the shoe pics, but I think that they're absolu...
by fclasse
Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:53 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

Hm, I see that I never responded back to this thread - a bit of beeswax, and the hand wax is just fine. In fact, it doesn't stick quite as badly to my fingers as my last batch, yet there was no flaking when newly used. The same stitching "lock" occurs when the threads are let alone for a moment, and...
by fclasse
Thu May 01, 2014 4:21 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10890

Re: Historic techniques and materials

I already have my order in =)


Francis
by fclasse
Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:52 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

Janne, Glad that it worked out for you - I cooked up a batch with the Auson kiln burned tar this weekend, and although it seemed to have the right consistency as what I've made before, it wouldn't adhere to the thread properly. I will try to add some beeswax, as I worry that tallow will make it too ...
by fclasse
Wed Mar 26, 2014 10:09 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

Janne, good to know, thank you! I know that Arttu is going to be sending Lance some pitch that he worked up, so maybe that will be a possibility for that lovely smelling pitch =)


Francis
by fclasse
Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:00 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

Janne, Thanks very much for the suggestions! Did they come up with an "ingredients list" as to what they used in their pitch? A lot of these pre-made waxes have petroleum products in them which is a difficulty for those of us trying to replicate historic materials =) Also, do they smell strongly of ...
by fclasse
Thu Mar 20, 2014 10:04 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

D.A.,

No doubt - I visited the MoL archives to look through some of the shoes and pieces that they had stored and had my mind accordingly blown. =) Oxford is definitely next on the list, as is Northampton.
by fclasse
Wed Mar 19, 2014 5:54 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

D.A., A good point. I should hit up some of my friends to split a skin of the whittawed calf from Talas. Still, I think I'd like to visit the Ashmolean and actually look at the extant pair in person before I go off and turn an attempted replica out. I've done repros in the past based on multiple pic...
by fclasse
Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:20 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

D.A., Last time I visited Talas' brick and mortar store (my parents live in New York), they had some lovely calfskin, but it carried a commensurate price tag as well! I passed since most people that request repros worry about dirtying up white shoes, but I did pick up a very nice whittawed goatskin,...
by fclasse
Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:48 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

D.A.,

Location, location, location! It makes all of the difference - thanks for the point of clarity. I'll have to keep that in mind for future repros and try and be consistent in technique as well as locale.


Francis
by fclasse
Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:46 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

D.A., Thanks for the helpful advice and kind comments! The original upon which this was based definitely has much finer stitching and used whittawed leather, which would also probably fold down better than the veg-tanned that I used. Next time, I'll probably try thinning down the heel cover leather ...
by fclasse
Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:18 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

This is a style based upon the pair of 1600s whittawed shoes in the Ashmolean museum in Oxford. Although lasted left and right, I now have straight lasts for these in the future! The decorative and functional opening reinforcement is based on several pieces that I examined in detail at the Museum of...
by fclasse
Thu Mar 13, 2014 3:20 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

D.A., Thank you very much for the comment! I just ordered a batch of wheat paste from Talas, and I'll definitely give that a shot on the next pair of shoes. As for the lasts, you're right on, they're crooked vintage wood lasts, but I ground the waist of them quite a bit to make them look more like t...
by fclasse
Thu Mar 13, 2014 1:25 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Hand Wax / Coad
Replies: 441
Views: 31366

Re: Hand Wax / Coad

D.A., I was going through Goubitz's 'Stepping Through Time' last night looking for something, and found that he has a number of curved side seams on separate quarter pieces and complete shoes that he has listed as 18th century. To me, most of them read late 1600s or early 1700s based on the use of l...
by fclasse
Mon Mar 10, 2014 10:48 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

Thanks for the tip - in terms of historical practice, I'm just not sure if they would have been using brass tacks then for lasting. I'll have to look at Garsault/Diderot and see if they call out what kind of material the lasting tacks were made out of.


Francis
by fclasse
Fri Mar 07, 2014 1:58 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65648

Re: The Gallery

My first real pair of early modern shoes, with antique silver hinged 18th century buckles from a museum deaccession. Upper leather from Dickens Bros, and insole/sole/rand from Rendenbach. Sewing and stitching was all done by eye with bristle and linen. I learned a great deal from this attempt, and I...
by fclasse
Tue Mar 04, 2014 11:10 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22946

Re: Closing techniques

Thanks for the shout out, Lance =) For my area of interest, closing uppers by hand is actually a key part of the process. However, I focus primarily on pre-industrial shoes where uppers were typically closed with the round seam (i.e. a butted seam where the double-running stitch is seen only on one ...
by fclasse
Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:27 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Thread
Replies: 694
Views: 27747

Re: Thread

I learned how to wind bristles from a fellow here in California who had taken one of D.A.'s classes in the 80s, so I've always been using 7-8" long bristles, even when the bristles were made of fishing line. I can't praise the real boar bristles enough, and that's not just because I bought kilos of ...
by fclasse
Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:57 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 111
Views: 8329

Re: Looking for...

D.A., Thanks - I had spoken with Mr. Hale a while back, but I've been dithering hoping that someone might have a stash secreted away that they've been thinking of trading off. Hard to beat the quality, though. DW, I think that the blade tip size of the smaller awls is probably about right, but they ...
by fclasse
Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:47 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 111
Views: 8329

Re: Looking for...

Hi all - after sewing on some outsoles with square awls for the first time (and no, I didn't break one...yet =), I realized ought to get some additional larger square awls. I do have quite a number of very fine ones, and I'd be delighted to set up a trade for some larger awls, perhaps with a bit of ...