Search found 23 matches

by noonan
Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:27 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21760

Re: Glues and Cements

<t>Unfortunately, if you wanted to use tuck board as we do,like from Bontex or Texon, You need to buy huge minimum sq. yardages. <br/> Used to be able to take away the scraps back in the old days, and for the small shop, that was quite enough. Check with Paul Freedman over at Lewis Sales. Thats the ...
by noonan
Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:30 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21760

Re: Glues and Cements

Gents;
Just add a tuck board to insole. Nail with inside heel nailer using correct ring nail. When nailing by hand, I have used sheet rock screws. Held strong, just three well placed screws.
Tim
by noonan
Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:57 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23797

Re: Lasting

<t>Hello Crispins, <br/> We back everything. Vamps and Qtrs. Some call it plumper, or doubler, or backer. Whatever...it will reinforce the shoe so it won't stretch out of shape after customer wears for a week., as well as give the shoe a nicer fuller look, kind of even out some little transitions at...
by noonan
Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:52 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Thread
Replies: 694
Views: 26092

Re: Thread

Dear Crispinites,
Try calling Paul Freedman at 508-243-6074 or
978-682-3587
He owns Lewis Sales up in Lawrence, MA
and has huge inventory of threads and needles.
Good Luck,
Tim
by noonan
Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:48 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 21760

Re: Glues and Cements

<t>The only way to go is with Upaco Latex. I used it whenever we worked with Cordovan, or for cementing leather bottoms which used to be impregnated with Butyle.(Golf shoes) It's not the best bond, but keeps everything together until you outsole stitch, then youre all set. Lett it dry real good. On ...
by noonan
Thu Nov 11, 2010 7:17 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41121

Re: Pattern making

<t>If you got a stapler with a long throat, you can staple the thing together. If you close seam like Lance does, be sure to rub the seam out nice and flat. Don't use leather if you can help it. Use something like canvas, with no stretch at all. <br/> We even put fit notches into the pattern, so's t...
by noonan
Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:15 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23797

Re: Lasting

<t>Hi Lance, <br/> <br/> The last looks a little dug out in the area I mentioned, but not bad. I wouldn't worry at all if I were to fill this in a little...just blend in about 2.5mm <br/> over the gap. It wont affect your fit enough to notice. Next, did you take your medial and a lateral draft, cut ...
by noonan
Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:17 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23797

Re: Lasting

<t>Hey Lance, <br/> I wish I could show you in person, it's so simple. Your scanned image shows me nothing,as a pattern man. You need to have an excellent fitting last draft. A properly layed out "shell" onto this draft, would show me right away what is the problem. remember I showed you how this "s...
by noonan
Mon Nov 08, 2010 8:32 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Lasting
Replies: 801
Views: 23797

Re: Lasting

<t>Hi Lance, <br/> Not bad...but <br/> I think that your vamp score line is pitched into the wood too much... it's all to do with the last draft, and how you lay your patterns onto it. You can work hard tugging and pulling to finish this pair, but next one on this last...make a new shell, and split ...
by noonan
Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:02 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: One "Last" Question
Replies: 1811
Views: 51397

Re: One "Last" Question

<t>Good Morning Crispinites, <br/> Yes it's a lot of work, but in the long run, the best way, and least messy. You can duplicate this molded insole on the next pair of sandals your'e happy customer orders. Thermo cork is available a bunch of places, I just always used Prime Materials in Batavia, NY ...
by noonan
Fri Jun 18, 2010 11:51 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: One "Last" Question
Replies: 1811
Views: 51397

Re: One "Last" Question

<t>Gents, <br/> This can be done by first creating a negative of your insole, and then with vacuum form, mold a positive out of the EVA, or ThermoCork, with extra stock thicknesses which can then be shaped on your sander, <br/> and posted to fit your specific last. In orthopedic work we would do thi...
by noonan
Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:57 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Lasts
Replies: 605
Views: 22527

Re: Lasts

Crispin Folk,
The free last offer is over. They are gone, No more inquiries please.
Thanks,
Tim
PS: That was the world's quickest yard sale ever.
by noonan
Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:44 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Lasts
Replies: 605
Views: 22527

Re: Lasts

<t>Dear Crispinites, <br/> <br/> I have available for the taking, first come first serve: <br/> <br/> Full size runs, whole and half sizes, mens and womens slip hinge last for handsewn construction, (but not limited to) <br/> I bought these about 12 years ago when Ansewn went out of business. <br/> ...
by noonan
Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:15 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41121

Re: Pattern making

<t>Gents... <br/> I think if you saw a set of patterns, a simple one, like a plain Oxford, with all the parts of the shoe, and the shell from which each part was "split"...then all would be clear as day how simple it really is. <br/> Lance...while I was cleaning out my office, I know I pulled a coup...
by noonan
Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:56 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41121

Re: Pattern making

<t>Hi DW, <br/> Your'e worries are over if you lay out a "shell" to create patterns, with all the components built into the shell. Then you "split parts" from the shell. The parts will always fit together however you as the pattern maker decide, whatever the shoe you build, with close seams, lap sea...
by noonan
Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:36 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Top patterns/stitching
Replies: 360
Views: 17975

Re: Top patterns/stitching

Gents...this is plain French Cord, and the lining was stitched in with an under trimmer, gauged a little deeper than on a dressy shoe, hence the nice undercut lining. Used all the time in the factory.
Tim
by noonan
Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:49 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1353
Views: 41121

Re: Pattern making

<t>After you have drafted about 1000 different styles of last, you'll figure out little tricks on your own to make accurate drafts. Even though we have a couple of guys here who scan all our new last, we pattern guys still take the data and average the medial and lateral to get our draft. By the way...
by noonan
Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:12 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22102

Re: Closing techniques

That's right...to reinforce the topline at heel.
Better made shoe have a "hurley" or "dog ear" built into the pattern, so you don't have the back seam getting rubbed every time you put shoes on/off. The dogs ear always goes to medial side.
Tim
by noonan
Wed Apr 14, 2010 8:55 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Insoles and inseaming
Replies: 426
Views: 16587

Re: Insoles and inseaming

<t>Only time we ran insoles through router/bevellor was when making high heeled wo's shoes, so heel would seat correctly. Bevel set is determined by thickness of heel covers, counter, etc. Then insoles are molded. Then depending on construction, they go to binding or wrapping (Say for open backs/ope...
by noonan
Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:02 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Seeking knowledge or survey
Replies: 793
Views: 22088

Re: Seeking knowledge or survey

<t>Good Morming Shoe Forum Folks, <br/> <br/> This devise is just about the loneliest piece of equipment down at the old shop, along with about 2,500 pair of last, a dozen cases of assorted nails and tacks, and more heel base to to fill up a dump truck. <br/> <br/> If someone want this stitch sepera...
by noonan
Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:00 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 21206

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

<t>Thanks Rob...why don't you and a couple of others get together and take it over. Someone like you would be ideal in there, and then I'd still have a chance to help out here and there, or at least come in and have me own shoes repaired! <br/> I'm am going to give this some time to try and sell int...
by noonan
Thu Jan 14, 2010 2:54 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Tools of the Trade
Replies: 1849
Views: 57290

Re: Tools of the Trade

<t>All, <br/> I've been enjoying reading in this Forum for a while, and today I saw some postings from last July with regards to edge irons. I'll need to go find the boxes, but I have a bunch of these old hand tools that I got from relatives of a deceased Italian shoemaker out of Brockton, MA I will...
by noonan
Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:47 pm
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 21206

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

To All, I own a small business making orthopedic shoes, and I would like to sell it to the right person or persons. The equipment and inventory is extensive, and the right person would do well by me. Bob Elfrink and Lance Pryor have been to the shop, they know me, and they understand my reason for w...