Search found 207 matches

by jon_g
Sat Dec 07, 2013 9:52 am
Forum: The Towne Crier
Topic: HCC meeting in Oct.
Replies: 398
Views: 12778

Re: HCC meeting in Oct.

Good job Jake! People are often afraid to step in and instead do nothing. Glad to know there's people who jump in to help a stranger.
by jon_g
Wed Oct 23, 2013 5:03 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22967

Re: Closing techniques

Hi Aaron, Yes it's as simple as using a bobbin thread that matches your lining. I use a size 16 or 18 needle and 69 or 33 thread. To be honest I don't know what units those numbers refer to. As far as stitches per inch, no idea, I always run a test piece of my upper/lining combination through the ma...
by jon_g
Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:44 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43899

Re: Pattern making

Yes and no, the lining is smaller but that's because it is on the inside of the curve around the heel. If you don't make this adjustment you will have too much lining to deal with and end up fighting with wrinkles or your lining won't fit properly towards the front.

Jon
by jon_g
Thu Aug 29, 2013 7:13 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43899

Re: Pattern making

Hi Aaron, I start with the back line created by the taped form. At the top of center back I tighten the topline by 2mm, at the apex of the counter I add 2mm, and then use a template to draw the curve down to the lasting allowance. This results in consistently tight toplines and enough space to fit a...
by jon_g
Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:01 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Pattern making
Replies: 1354
Views: 43899

Re: Pattern making

Probably you know this trick already, but just in case... You can draw an accurate center line by laying a strip of masking tape out on your work area, draw a straight line down the center of it with a ruler. Then stick the tape to the last starting at the cone, holding it out towards the toe until ...
by jon_g
Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:59 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 51320

Re: sewing machines

Is the 29K60 a patcher? If so I would look for a proper sewing machine first, if you're serious about closing uppers a patcher won't give you satisfactory results.

I have one of Dick's gimping needles and I'm very happy with it.

As I was writing this DW posted his reply and I second his response.
by jon_g
Wed Jun 19, 2013 7:12 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 22339

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

A friend of mine has a set of boot lasts for sale. Sizes are from 4-13 in A-B-C-D-E widths. They are for sale as a set. Most are unused, a few lightly used and a couple have been significantly adjusted, the adjusted ones are free. PM me with serious inquiries.

Jon
by jon_g
Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:48 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Thread
Replies: 694
Views: 27777

Re: Thread

...there is an alternative. That's what I say about bristles :) All kidding aside, I also use teklon for inseaming, and almost always for sole stitching when the threads will be dyed with the sole edge. The exception, and I think it was something that Janne said a while back, is for Norwegian sewn ...
by jon_g
Wed May 22, 2013 4:10 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bristling at the very suggestion
Replies: 455
Views: 25514

Re: Bristling at the very suggestion

Yes I think there's likely a few good reasons not to drop your threads. I don't know that there's one traditional way to hold them, I've seen people hold them between their middle and index fingers, or ring and pinky, and in a Japanese (western) shoemaking book I've got, the photos show the maker ho...
by jon_g
Tue May 21, 2013 1:34 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Bristling at the very suggestion
Replies: 455
Views: 25514

Re: Bristling at the very suggestion

In defense of needles. I've been meaning to reply to this subject for a while now, and this is also a reply to Cody's comment about needing to use a bristle for sewing with a tightly curved awl, you don't. I use needles almost exclusively, I say almost because I have a collection of natural bristles...
by jon_g
Mon May 13, 2013 7:53 pm
Forum: The Registry
Topic: The Registry
Replies: 542
Views: 30601

Re: The Registry

Welcome Nathan, sounds like you're in the right place.
by jon_g
Fri May 03, 2013 8:24 am
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1488
Views: 65776

Re: The Gallery

Nat, nice job. Your work is getting better and better. Keep up the good work.
by jon_g
Wed May 01, 2013 5:03 am
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: Just some thoughts...
Replies: 113
Views: 6557

Re: Just some thoughts...

The new site was definitely strange to begin with and I found myself wishing back the old site, but after messing around on the new site for a little while it started to get familiar. In fact the more I use it, the more I like it.

So thanks to the person or people involved in the update.
by jon_g
Tue Apr 09, 2013 1:31 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 39059

Re: Great Leather!

<t>Thanks, <br/> <br/> Makes sense. I cut my vamps the same way that you do, for the same reasons. Unfortunately for a whole cut this looks like the least efficient way to cut. <br/> <br/> Geri, it's more that I want the least stretch side to side. That's where the foot will be causing the most stre...
by jon_g
Tue Apr 09, 2013 11:56 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 39059

Re: Great Leather!

Today I received my first ostrich hide. Expensive and a lot less usable square feet than I had anticipated.

I'm making a pair of whole cuts. Can someone give me some advice on how to cut this, as in which way to orient the patterns?
by jon_g
Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:33 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Thread
Replies: 694
Views: 27777

Re: Thread

<t>Can someone explain thread gauge for me. I recently found some hand sewing thread, linen and hemp, 8, 10 and 15. <br/> <br/> Are there better gauges for different tasks? Are more thinner threads stronger than fewer thicker ones? <br/> <br/> I'm going to stick with the Dacron for inseaming but som...
by jon_g
Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:10 am
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: "...a great way forward?"
Replies: 94
Views: 4904

Re: "...a great way forward?"

<t>Thanks Richard for getting this discussion going, I think it was due. <br/> <br/> I don't think it's a question about which tradition of shoemaking one uses, or how ancient your tradition is. It's more important that you work from a tradition. Otherwise you are making mistakes, whether you know i...
by jon_g
Fri Jan 11, 2013 9:47 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: New Ebay auctions
Replies: 48
Views: 7945

Re: New Ebay auctions

<t>I'm always curious about how many of us are watching the same auctions. Sometimes I don't like to post auctions in case someone loses out on a great price because of it. <br/> <br/> I bought one of the pairs this seller listed in late January, with narrow jaws, they're excellent. It felt like the...
by jon_g
Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:05 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Toe boxes
Replies: 226
Views: 13441

Re: Toe boxes

Celastic. I'm sure you can find a better solvent than gasoline, I use acetone. I would also recommend leaving it overnight to dry Celastic seems to be a controversial subject here http://www.thehcc.org/forum/images/old_smilies/happy.gif Although it doesn't compare to steel, a double layer makes a st...
by jon_g
Wed Jan 09, 2013 1:50 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 39059

Re: Great Leather!

<t>GH French Calf is good, but to be honest I don't like it nearly as much as the French calf that used to be available through Hardke. I've heard that they were planning to find a substitution but I don't know what happened. I think Rick mentioned something a while back about a box calf available t...
by jon_g
Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:09 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Glues and Cements
Replies: 248
Views: 22693

Re: Glues and Cements

I received an advertisement with an order today. It's for a new Renia product called Aquilim, a water based solvent free cement.

Has anyone tried this product already?

I'm going to order a small quantity and I'll let you know how it turns out.
by jon_g
Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:03 am
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: On beer
Replies: 18
Views: 1817

Re: On beer

Cheers Jake,

One of my resolutions is to participate more in the discussions as well as the gallery.

Hope your new year is off to a good start.

Jon
by jon_g
Mon Dec 31, 2012 5:57 pm
Forum: The SpeakEasy
Topic: On beer
Replies: 18
Views: 1817

Re: On beer

<t>Not strictly an "on beer" message, but I thought it fitting as I intend to enjoy a few this evening. <br/> <br/> I want to wish you fellow forum members the best in the new year. I hope to see forum membership and participation increase in 2013 and I hope to see us all grow as craftsmen and conti...