Search found 469 matches

by jesselee
Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:18 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61758

Re: The Gallery

Are wood heels made with the grain of the wood running: Toe to heel side to side or up and down or diagonal or does it matter :) ??? Up and down as I have seen in Victorian era Austrian and Hessian boots which had the heels covered in leather. It only makes sense as the grain up and down is more su...
by jesselee
Tue Jul 02, 2013 6:13 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11061

Re: The Gallery

This new forum is 100 times more difficult to use than the original on.

Anyways. I don't know when waxed leather was used and am not a medievalist, but I have seen medieval cups and jugs made of waxed leather in museums, so it follow that shoe makers would have used it for their shoes and boots.
by jesselee
Wed Mar 27, 2013 9:16 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: "The Art and Mysterie..."
Replies: 455
Views: 17960

Re: "The Art and Mysterie..."

<t>I just pulled the first one of a one piece boot onto the legger (forming board). Took me 15 minutes. One piece boots are NOT crimped as in full Wellingtons, nor is a crimping screw or crimping board used. It may be possible, but why invent the wheel. These ones will have an inside side seam, very...
by jesselee
Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:27 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: "The Art and Mysterie..."
Replies: 455
Views: 17960

Re: "The Art and Mysterie..."

Nasser,

I have made several pairs of one piece boots with a back seam as many high end officers boots were made during the Civil War. The whole foot, throat element is very different.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Sat Feb 09, 2013 11:12 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

Cody,

I lety the glue set, usually minimum a few hours or overnight (if I use Barge). Then the needle does not gum up. A bit of spray WD40 or a wipe of oil helps as well.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:37 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

All,

My old 1876 Bradbury sews incredibly well and perfect for her age. In fact all my 19th century machines just need a drop of oil now and then. Wish they made 'em as well today as in the past.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:12 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

Hey Alasdair, thanks for the manual. It may just do the trick. Sure would like to have a Gritzner like that one. Mine is the old style where you can see all the moving parts. Quite an attractive machine.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:08 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

Anyone know where I can get a Gritzner manual online?

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Mon Oct 15, 2012 9:08 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10308

Re: Historic techniques and materials

<t>Nat, <br/> <br/> Thats correct. Just leave a small point of peg. Do NOT go the full point. <br/> <br/> Lisa, <br/> <br/> That small peg point is all you need for hold. Just watched all your youtube videos again. With two eyes I would dare to do that type stitching. <br/> <br/> Cheers, <br/> <br/>...
by jesselee
Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:40 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10308

Re: Historic techniques and materials

Lisa,

In your videos were you pegging on the iron last, or a stand for a wooden last? Seems there is some interest here on both styles of pegging.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:59 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10308

Re: Historic techniques and materials

<t>Geraldine, <br/> <br/> Yes, the lasts get grooved simply by the pegging awl. I only ues 19th century techniques which were taught to me first hand by my teacher who was born in 1877 and have first hand writing of the period as my guide. <br/> <br/> Using the iron last is an excellent technique, e...
by jesselee
Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:50 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10308

Re: Historic techniques and materials

<t>Al, <br/> <br/> I suppose the evidence would have come from my teacher and his as well as some first hand papers I have and will photograph or scan for y'all. In short the technique comes from a source that lived during the time and I use it and the technique is self evident. I have also, as was ...
by jesselee
Mon Oct 15, 2012 12:29 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Historic techniques and materials
Replies: 166
Views: 10308

Re: Historic techniques and materials

Geraldine,

Yes, the pegging awl will eventually leave trenches in a last. The upside is that if you peg on such a last and the pegs are too long they won't affect the removal of the last.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Fri Oct 12, 2012 2:44 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11061

Re: Through the Mists of Time...

<t>Alrighty.. This has my blood boiling! I MUST learn this Trade. I have made wood soled Confederate shoes and understand the dynamics of the clog aspect. If anyone else is making clogs, please drop me a line. I think I will try my hand at making the clasps as I have experience making dots and conch...
by jesselee
Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:19 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

Thanks fella's, I'llhunker down and look at what all y'all have advised.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Tue Sep 04, 2012 9:35 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 48168

Re: sewing machines

<t>I have just aquired a Singer 29K-71. It looks almost new. Gold lettering and the blue on the logo is pristine. <br/> <br/> But it won't sew. It will do about 3/4 of an inch and then the bobbin snarls. I know the 29 class and have owned many and restored some 29's and 29K's from rusted junk with j...
by jesselee
Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:27 am
Forum: The Boughton Faire Memorial Bazaar
Topic: Tools and equipment for sale
Replies: 167
Views: 21207

Re: Tools and equipment for sale

I have a Gritzner sole stitcher with box for anyone who is interested. I don't do welt stitching so don't need it.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:31 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Shoe machines
Replies: 538
Views: 27867

Re: Shoe machines

Rosemary,

I have a bandsaw. never used it to cut sole leather. Can you give me a few tips please.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Wed May 30, 2012 10:53 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>Srivatsan, <br/> <br/> Having studied Salquin and Munson's expose's on the subject, I agree with with their observations to correct and supply a more suitable last to some feet which have been cramped by the toes running over. <br/> <br/> Is it the fault of a straighter last? I do not know. Is it...
by jesselee
Wed May 30, 2012 10:45 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>Nasser, <br/> <br/> I would support, in the end it is the skills of the craftsman, whether welted or pegged which makes the difference. <br/> <br/> I hardly think pegged shoes or boots are limited to 'peasants' as officer's boots during the Civil War a well as boots belonging to such notable hist...
by jesselee
Wed May 30, 2012 3:12 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

Nat,

Very true on both counts. I do a fine welted sole, and have found that the tighter the stitches the better the hold. But they have never surpassed my pegged soles.

Cheers,

JesseLee
by jesselee
Wed May 30, 2012 11:02 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>Nat, <br/> <br/> Pegs MUST come through the innersole to grip. If they just go partway into the innersole, they will not hold and the points will come through. Thus my comment on how people don't know how to properly peg. The peg float takes care of pegs on the innersole as does hammering them so...
by jesselee
Wed May 30, 2012 7:46 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>Srivatsan, <br/> <br/> That seems to be his view. However there was lots of unproven anti-peg propaganda in the book such as pegs falling out and the mention of a soldier who put on a shoe and the whole sole fell off which is totally impossible. <br/> The US Army found that in desert and hot terr...
by jesselee
Tue May 29, 2012 9:04 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8435

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>Nat, <br/> <br/> That was a really good read. Balderdash I say to the anti-peg views. I have heard all the arguments, and the consensus is that those opposing pegging do NOT know how to peg. It is the best system. I don't have pegs falling out, nor are my soles stiff and repairability is a cake w...
by jesselee
Thu May 10, 2012 8:53 pm
Forum: The Gallery
Topic: The Gallery
Replies: 1482
Views: 61758

Re: The Gallery

<t>These are the typical US Army shoes commonly called brogans which were made in Lynn MA. The lasts are copied by myself from period originals, the stitching is to Govt. contract and they are govt. contract patterns. <br/> <br/> Hope this works.. <br/> <br/> Nope. Anyway if you want to see them you...