Search found 206 matches

by tmattimore
Tue Mar 24, 2015 3:57 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: Closing techniques
Replies: 444
Views: 22461

Re: Closing techniques

The young lady who works for me can sew an oxford or Gibson on a flat bed 31-15 What are you trying to sew?
by tmattimore
Sat Mar 21, 2015 6:57 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 1233
Views: 36141

Re: Looking for...

Not to start a flame out but I must ask the question. Which is more sustainable, a well made leather shoe that with care will last years or a more "sustainable" shoe that might last weeks or months? Having had two operations on my hands and many cortisone injections since I also must ask how about t...
by tmattimore
Fri Mar 13, 2015 4:37 am
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 31082

Re: Great Leather!

Between the earthquake in Japan and the addition of 5 species of shark to CITES in 2013 shark has gotten scarce. There is pressure to add all species of shark to the list.
http://www.cites.org/eng/prog/shark/sharks.php
by tmattimore
Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:09 pm
Forum: Shoemakers Wanted...
Topic: In search of custom shoemaker
Replies: 104
Views: 10222

Re: In search of custom shoemaker

Can you read the pm I sent? It has contact info on it.
Tom
by tmattimore
Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:16 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 49538

Re: sewing machines

Ralph's Power Sewing in Denver has an old 11 junker they may part it out. They are in the Denver yellow pages.
by tmattimore
Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:08 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 31082

Re: Great Leather!

I talked to Peter last week They still have some of their cordovan. They will cut down their line of goods. Their former salesman Loy is starting his own shop and may be able to get some roo.
by tmattimore
Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:09 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8685

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

Most of his collection is in the hands of the NPS if you reach out to their office in harpers ferry they may be able to tell you where a particular shoe is. A large number of his Indian war era footware is at Ft. Laramie so I am sure any of his C.S. items are on display back east.
by tmattimore
Sat Apr 13, 2013 1:54 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Great Leather!
Replies: 731
Views: 31082

Re: Great Leather!

<t>I used to do contract work for a company that made saddle and windshield bags for Harley. I cut about 100 sides a week of Wickett skirting and bridle. We installed a few millon spots rivets and other decorations in it. I have made about 5000 pair of boots using Wickett skirting for insoles. I use...
by tmattimore
Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:44 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 49538

Re: sewing machines

With larger needles in the 31-15 you may start to get needle clearance issues. I.E. the needle is too close to the shuttle hook and may rub on it I also have never heard of any one using heavier than 69 thread on a class 15.
by tmattimore
Sun Feb 17, 2013 8:35 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 49538

Re: sewing machines

<t>If you are timed for a 134 "type" needle you can buy them up to size 130 still a little small for a size 92 thread. If you check around they may go bigger. They are available in both "r" and "lr" <br/> 134 is a needle system <br/> 135 is a needle system both are very similar in size and may not n...
by tmattimore
Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:33 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11478

Re: Through the Mists of Time...

<t>I have always called them ice cutters shoes. Until refrigeration ice was cut in the winter and stored in warehouses for use in the summer. Union Pacific had a huge ice operation in Laramie until the 1930's they had huge ponds that froze over and then they pumped steam into them to pop the ice fre...
by tmattimore
Sat May 19, 2012 4:23 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11478

Re: Through the Mists of Time...

Footwear's myths versus facts is the title. I have a request in for an interlibrary loan at the University for four issues but they are apparently out on loan.
by tmattimore
Fri May 18, 2012 3:19 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Through the Mists of Time...
Replies: 331
Views: 11478

Re: Through the Mists of Time...

Footwear news Jan 1997
by tmattimore
Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:52 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Shoe concealments
Replies: 54
Views: 3900

Re: Shoe concealments

For Simone
This is the infantry version but note the toe cap.
14520.jpg
by tmattimore
Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:13 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Shoe concealments
Replies: 54
Views: 3900

Re: Shoe concealments

Yes that is the one. My grandfather from Calabria stood 5 feet 3 inches and wore a size 7 shoe. In 1917 he was an average sized man. The lug type rubber soles have been around at least since the 1940's.
by tmattimore
Wed Mar 21, 2012 3:36 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Shoe concealments
Replies: 54
Views: 3900

Re: Shoe concealments

I belive the ones in the 4th photo are Italian army mountain boots. The toe cap is quite distinctive.
by tmattimore
Thu Oct 06, 2011 4:28 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 35581

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

Sorry for the misunderstanding. the side seam should not be affected by crimping since if you crimp the vamp you will need to put extra material on the blocker and trim to the pattern after it drys.
by tmattimore
Wed Oct 05, 2011 4:12 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 35581

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

I do not understand what you mean. The type of boot mentioned does not have a side seam. Also it is possible to build a riding boot/field boot with out crimping the vamp at all.
by tmattimore
Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:38 am
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions
Replies: 1150
Views: 35581

Re: miscellaneous tips, advice, and cautions

13975.jpg
13975.jpg (21.74 KiB) Viewed 696 times

This boot is a compromise between riding and walking. This was authorized wear for U.S. army officers from 1904 thru 1945
by tmattimore
Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:38 pm
Forum: Techniques, Crans and Visualizations
Topic: sewing machines
Replies: 928
Views: 49538

Re: sewing machines

<t>You don't need a perfect table to sew perfectly you need a machine capable of sewing perfectly. Then you can train the operator. As long as the table is not rough as a cob and snagging every thing in sight you will be fine. Think of the table as a work rest, as long as it is flush with the top of...
by tmattimore
Mon Jul 04, 2011 3:53 pm
Forum: Sources
Topic: Looking for...
Replies: 1233
Views: 36141

Re: Looking for...

I hunted high and low for them but they seem to be a thing of the past as all new ones seem to be soft spikes. I did find some golf shoes in a thrift store and high graded the screw insets and reused them. You can buy soft spikes to fit the old inserts.
by tmattimore
Sat Jun 18, 2011 10:34 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8685

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

Got me, the heel plate is a complete box that I have never seen before. The hobs look like DB Gurneys grooved head nails but they have been around since 1825. Looks like they were sewn on a machine with bad bottom tension.
Sure is a puzzler
Tom
by tmattimore
Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:30 pm
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8685

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

They were brass but with a very small turn over.
by tmattimore
Mon Jun 13, 2011 10:33 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8685

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>The last photo on the page looks like a nice tight chain stitch. Blake had to have done it between 61 and 63 when Mckay and Bryant went to see Stanton in D.C. Bryant gives a breif account of the meeting in "100 years of shoemaking" <br/> Also don't go by eyelets alone. When the grave on the Glori...
by tmattimore
Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:34 am
Forum: Boot and Shoes In History
Topic: Civil War Shoemaking
Replies: 199
Views: 8685

Re: Civil War Shoemaking

<t>An easy one to date. In 1861 Lyman Blake suffered some kind of medical problem and went to Virginia to recuperate. At that time his machine could not sew across the toe. When war became imminent he returned to Mass. and perfected the the pinion, whirl and horn. The Mckay co. then manufactured som...