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DW,

Gotcha. I have seen shoes with the stitching on the outsole exposed though. I think possibly their chukka boots on that website for example (can't remember). Is there any reasoning for that beyond aesthetics? As a matter of fact, I am pretty sure my cowboy boots have exposed stitching on the outsole. Again, I am a complete noob, so I am sure I am asking things that are completely obvious to most of you. Here is an example.

Kevin,

That looks to be a grooved outsole. It is, IMO, not significantly better than stitching aloft. The threads are exposed to grit and moisture and I believe it significantly and adversely impacts the life of the seam and the outsole.

A well done channel cut in, and a deepening angle, from the edge of the outsole is the best solution to protecting the stitching. A vertical channel if closed properly and perhaps even glued shut is close behind but not as aesthetically pleasing as the angled channel.

A horizontal channel cut in from the edge of the insole can be pretty good for protecting the threads depending on how deep the channel is cut. But if it is not cut very deep it quickly becomes ragged and is almost more of an eyesore than any other method.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Nasser,

I'll get some to ya Partner! I think I still have your mailing address. Enjoy!

Jon,

Thanks! I appreciate it! You know, I think I WILL stick to it. I enjoyed not "bellying" up to those darn machines!

Jake,

I am very grateful to hear that, you are a good soul,you "Made My Day", so to say,how i can i repay you ,you let me know, i have plenty of natural linen #8 for exchange if agreeable, it is a little lighter in color than the hemp thread but has the sparkles of the silk thread on welts.Thanks again.

Nasser

Nasser,

No pay necessary! Just keep posting those "button" boots. Very elegant! I just love studying them.

Take care!

I thought I would share a couple of photos I ran across on another forum.

These are photos of pinwork on vintage balmoral boots made in the 1920's. The work was entered in a shoe repair competition....







I wish I knew where to get the pins for this work.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

What a charming display!

Was that a US s/r competition?

I'm not big on tooled sole bottoms, but this is beautiful.

Thanks for putting it up.

It looks like dye was used as well. The end result is beautiful.

My question . . . could it be short lengths of two different thicknesses of brass rod?

I've got a bunch of tiny brass pins. They're just over a quarter inch long. I can't remember where they came from.

Nori

Nori,

Sure like to see some of those and maybe find out where they came from.I reckon some of these are 19 or 20 gauge maybe even smaller.

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Here you go, DW. From left to right, 17x1", 16x5/8", tailor's solid head pin, brass pin. It's a little longer than I thought, not quite 5/8" long, a hair over 1/2" long, but you can see how slender it is in comparison to the brads. It's minutely thicker than a pin.



Nori

DW, this site model train supplies has 1/8" brass brads. They're really tiny. You'll have to click through to page 3.



They come in packs of 300 for ~$8.

Nori

Nori,

Thanks.

Are they solid brass...if you clip the head off would the core of the shaft still be brass?

So..."tailor's pins" Is that it, do you think?

Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

DW, the tailor's pin is stainless and about 1 1/8" long. I use those when I quilt or sew (non-leather/non-cordwaining stuff).

The brass pins I have came with a shirt Wadly bought. They were holding the shirt in its folded configuration.

The tiny brass brads I posted are significantly shorter and a bit smaller around (I think).

Nori

DW, you might want to check out this company.

micro brass pins

Nori