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Emmett

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one more of stingray

Forgot the pic

Stingray hide just completed...Hate to work with this hide especially with this pattern,but it was worth it.

Hi. I have only been making shoes for a few months, and I am having a tough time with carving the heels. I keep undercutting the layers. Does anyone have any advice, or is this just a issue that has to be struggled through with experience?
These are my 4th pair, and I didnt know what proportions to use for a chukka, so I sort of faked it. The tongue ended up being about 1cm too short.
I hand stitched the uppers, and made a few crooked stitches there.
Also, should the topline have a stiffener? :
Thanks.
Hallot

As a custom boot maker I have a client who sends me alligator hides he hunts in Geargia. He does not wear boots but did want some golf shoes. I have not made shoes before but thought it couldn't be to much tougher than boots. After asking around about patterns I just decided to make my own. Saddled with some French Calf, here they are...
/image{my picture}

As a custom boot maker I have a client who sends me alligator hides he hunts in Geargia. He does not wear boots but did want some golf shoes. I have not made shoes before but thought it couldn't be to much tougher than boots. After asking around about patterns I just decided to make my own. Saddled with some French Calf, here they are...
/image{my picture}

(Message edited by jim_b on August 23, 2010)

(Message edited by jim_b on August 23, 2010)

(Message edited by jim_b on August 23, 2010)

(Message edited by jim_b on August 23, 2010)

Here is another recently finished pair. These have been called the Plainsman by others, with a Cathedral stitch pattern. I like the name 'Cathedral stitch pattern' better than the pattern itself, but whatever...



16.5" tall stovepipe tops of 5-6 ounce Horween Beaumont. These were no fun to turn, I'll tell you what! I felt like Popeye by the time I was done.
Vegtan Horse Hide for side seams and fabric pulls of the same pattern as I've showed on previous pairs.

Paul

Here is my latest pair of shoes. They are a monk strap, modeled after an Edward Green style. The leather is the Edelman Russian Calf in the dark blue; I am thinking about using some black shoe cream or polish to try to get it to be a midnight blue, almost indistinguishable from black.

The outsole is handsewn, 10spi. Square, non-beveled waist. The outsole is the Belgian pit tanned leather from Milton Sokol, which is not quite as nice to sew as the Bakers oak bark tanned leather.








As always, comments and criticism are welcomed.

Lance

I wanted to show my new purses. Not yet shoes but they are still leather and I am working on rolled edges and hand sewing. The purple purse had some serious issues with respect to the final closing process and I did not invest any time in making a handle but I am proud of the attempt that I made with the green purse.

Geri

These ladies are of the Edelman Luxe calf. If I had it to do over, I would widen the tab. The ankle wrinkles bug me, but I am told that is the nature of zippered boots. I am not a fan of zippers because they make no aesthetic contribution and am looking to experiment with other closure methods.
The good news is that my stitching(for once)looks like it was done by a sober person with good eyesight! The edge coloring is uneven and my finish work needs work. But, my friend loves them, so I am deeming this effort successful.
Suggestions, advice, criticism are greatly valued, as are all of your contributions to this forum.

I thought i will post a picture before this one leave the shop soon,The customer asked for them to be made rugged(not dressy in his words,I bought some real good Spanish calf for it,but he chose this badly tan cow/calf 4 oz and didn't absorb water well and made hand blocking difficult.


Nasser

These are my second pair of shoes since taking Marcell's class in June. I was told that I needed to make 20 pairs before they would be good...so a long way to go!
I really learned some things from this project - particularly how little I know what I am doing. Each mistake does tell me what to focus my attention on next time, however. I ended up essentially ruining the shoes by trying to dye the sole edge with Fiebings. \image

(Message edited by hallotp on August 09, 2010)

(Message edited by hallotp on August 09, 2010)

Finished and delivered, one pair of boots.
My new favorites. These are made of Black and #88 Brown from GH Leather.



Thanks to those involved for the help and encouragment.

This is not my work but I thought it was so unusual and so striking that it belonged here in the gallery.

The first photo is of some "pinwork" that was once fairly common on shoes meant for exhibition. This is a 19th century example, I believe. It is comprised of thousands of tiny pins of different metals...thus producing the colour.



The second photo is of some prize winning shoes made by contemporary Japanese shoemaker,Genki Shinomiya.



For your edification and inspiration...

Sorry, I forgot how to make this. Let's see...

I made these shoes for my wedding last Monday. The leather is a pebble grain French calf golf shoe leather from a closeout sale.

I took advantage of the fact that the black color is not struck through allowing my gimped edge to be white.

Veg tan kangaroo

I really enjoyed finishing the bottoms. I'd rather wear the Vibram 1/2"heel sole, but I'd rather make the leather sole with a stacked leather heel any day.

For Jesse Lee Cantrell

1864 Drovers boots
These were designed for a special Florida cavalry unit of the Confederacy in 1864, which were the primary early cowboys for the Confederate army driving beeves north to feed their men. Originally they had a brass toe cap and brass plate above the heel across the lower part of the counter. The leather is 4oz. oak tanned which is Virginia waxed ie. the hide came as is and was finished with a harness wax dressing in the shop. Stitches are 8 to the inch using # 7 Barbours linen cord, hand waxed. Boot straps have a period copper rivet for strength as per originals. Soles are double pegged at 8 to the inch with the toes nailed with square iron nails as per the heels.









(Message edited by proxy posting on July 21, 2010)

Here is a pair I just finished. I made them for a friend. The lasts are those that I showed in my pictorial of lastmaking last autumn.

Black calfskin oxfords, hand sewn Baker's outsole, 10 spi, beveled/fiddleback waist. This pattern is one that I like, it adds a bit of distinction to a simple black oxford. You do have to 'spring' the vamp/quarter seam, because the two facings are cut from the single piece of leather due to the design.








Lance

I do not do students But Alyssa who is a student at the University wanted to intern. She majored in theatre and works in costume. this is her first boot. She has a future.
{allysa}
Tom

(Message edited by tmattimore on July 02, 2010)

\

I got brave & finally tried a bal (made up the pattern, as I had no idea how they're really constructed) and tried the Scotch grain from Edelman's I got awhile back. This leather did allow me to make nicer folded edges than I've done so far, and skiving it wasn't bad either - but when I got to the lasting--yikes. It doesn't show in the pix, but I ended up with some vertical creases/wrinkles at the toe front that I just couldn't get rid of. In fact I could barely last this leather at all with any technique I've learned so far! I ended up actually notching it and lasting the parts in between, like a heel counter! I don't think that's a good technique, even if it worked, sort of.
Anybody got any tips on lasting such stiff leather (by comparison to the soft stuff I've used till now?)

First pair of shoes completed at Marcell's NY class. A great experience!

Balmoral Boots. First attempt at this style. A horror to take the lasts out. Some stretching and wrinkles that I didn't expect otherwise I'm quite happy. Apologies for the photos. They are taken with my phone.

J.S. Roberts


(Message edited by jsroberts on June 28, 2010)

Oversized image, sorry

(Message edited by jsroberts on June 28, 2010)

Tom Mix Remix
Design inspired by Tom Mix boots from a couple of the collectible books. As a "Remix", I've made them in a Torrero style using a black kangaroo buckstitching as accent on the back seam, collars and foxing. Cement construction leather sole with #3 heel. The black horse hair tassels are meant as a design option.

Tom Mix Remix
Design inspired by Tom Mix boots from a couple of the collectible books. As a "Remix", I've made them in a Torrero style using a black kangaroo buckstitching as accent on the back seam, collars and foxing. Cement construction leather sole with #3 heel. The black horse hair tassels are meant as a design option.

My third pair cowboy boots... first beaded side seam. Hand stitched outsole.

Pebble grain French calf. My daughter is happy with them!

My first post, hope it works. Here is the latest from my studio in Melbourne, Australia.


They are a Greenly Field Boot style similar to the ones posted below. They are modelled however on US Military adaptions that my client (who has very wide feet and very thick calves) brought in as reference.

They are made from a New Zealand veg tan cow hide for the upper and Australian veg tan kangaroo for the facings, backstrap and linings. I do all the dying myself.

J.S. Roberts

(Message edited by jsroberts on June 19, 2010)

"The Way I Am"
The tops are the new Italian tanned kangaroo from Hardtke that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I can never remember the name of it but it comes in some good colors. It's a little stretchier than I would like but it's a good deal for the price. This particular color is called Benedictine but it's actually closer to the color Tan they used to carry in the glazed Italian tanned kangaroo. The foot is green saltwater crocodile from Mark Staton. I love the tile pattern on this foot.

I've begun naming all of my boots after classic country music (and an occasional bluegrass tune). This is one of my boots for May entitled "Smoky Mountain Rain." The tops are gray rough-out Italian tanned kangaroo from Hardtke and the background is Nightshade kid from Shrut and Asch. The foot is black ostrich, also from Hardtke. It's built on a little size 5 1/2 ladies last with a 2" heel. I haven't made too many boots on a high-heeled last and it was a pain to last.

Randee made these black veg calf (Waterhouse) jodphurs for herself. I finished the bottoms. Inch and a quarter heel. Pegged waist. First pair of jodphurs from this shop.







Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on June 15, 2010)

(Message edited by wfowks on June 11, 2010)

Here is a pair of Grenley boots finish today by Danielle, from Holland. She has been in my shop for two weeks and before that she was a student at Marcell for four weeks. A very talented lady!

I helped with the tops and she made the rest.

Also, a friend made the trees for her boot. He is working in the orthopedic trade and have a lahte that can make tall boot trees. I could recomend him if any of you need to copy a tree.

I don't advertise sandal making but when elderly Mrs Fraser walked in the shop after reading an article about me in our local neighborhood magazine, She decided to come to the shop for a pair of sandals,She knew what she wanted and told me so.



Nasser Vies
HCC-Member

Finally finished my fourth pair!

I had my first time using a shank, first time making a thread, made my own welt, hand sewed the midsole, and since I am still figuring out how to use a sewing machine hand stitched the straps and closed by hand, which was kind of a hassle but I really like the way they look.

I had some challenges trying to figure out how to make something that does'nt fasten over my painfull hump on my instep, and also was told during the making I have a short leg, so unfortunatley I had to put a big ol' rocker sole on it.

Thanks so much for the advice on building up the sole!

G'day All,
Sorry I've been quiet of late.
Here's my latest pair. For a lady up in Queensland, Aust.

Veg. Kangaroo hide uppers and straps.Veg sole. Turnshoe construction, and all hand sewn by eye (scored a line, but didn't pre mark stitches), and lastless.






Cheers
Duncan

Hi everyone, I've been out of the forum for a while but life with a young family, and a busy spring down at the volunteer fire department have kept me tied up, happily. I do want to share one of my latest pairs with the group and ask for any advice, thoughts, or compliments that you might want to share.





Hardke french calf uppers, my first time using it, very nice. Nice to work with, and nice to polish when the shoes are done.

Size 12 children last in kid leather.The little girl was so happy with the fitter,she asked me when am i going to finish the next shoe,so i think she will be pleased with this pair.



Nasser Vies
HCC-Member

Here is a pair of Balmoral boots I just finished. Made from Edelman calf in pitch brown. Hand sewn outsole at 10 spi.








I need to figure out a better dying and staining method for my sole edges....

These are my latest. Both are 'tests' for new lasts. Leather is not really right for the flats, & makes them look a bit clunky, but can't beat bison/deer for softness and workability. These two pair put me at a grand total of 10 prs of shoes made so far. The learning curve is still VERY steep!

One more:



Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

Here is the latest pair of shoes from my shop...

Edleman "Root Beer" vegetable calf, antiqued, five eighths inch heel on my new shoe last. Customer's design, fiddleback and beveled waist, whole cut liner. All edges folded.



Maybe the best and clearest forepart I've ever done. On chestnut. Both, within reason, were identical.



hand stitched outsole at 10-11 spi



hand welted insole at 4spi heel seat hand stitched



hand stitched tongue attached to whole cut liner.



Tight Stitches
DWFII--HCC Member

(Message edited by dw on May 24, 2010)

Some new dance shoes. GN glazed buffalo and Waterhouse veg calf.



happy customer

Good Morning All,

Here is a recent completon.

Red and Turquoise Roo from Sheridan Leather.
(Seems to be the season for turquoise)

Black Bull Hide, Turqouis Deer Skin and Faux Gator.



(Message edited by Jim B on May 11, 2010)

(Message edited by Jim B on May 11, 2010)

Here is V-cut in suede.



Nasser Vies
HCC-member

Here they are, my first pair of boots, made by me with a lot of help and supervision. These things really made me appreciate what you guys know and go through. In my opinion, every one of you work too cheap!!!!!
Also got a chance to work with some equipment made by Dick Anderson. Good designs, and excellent craftsmanship. He is good.
John Lewis

Just finished these Chelsea shoes or Beatle boots.

Edelman Lux calf. Hardthe veg tan liner. Glue construction.

\ image{my picture}

(Message edited by Jim B on May 03, 2010)

Jim,

Include the text

\image{my picture}

in your text

My newest pair:
Alligator from Georgia and French Calf from GH.
Except the system didn't prompt me to upload so I'm trying to figure out HOW to POST the PICTURE!
Help please....

(Message edited by Jim B on May 03, 2010)

These boots were commissioned by Howard Post, an artist and author of children's book "The Magic Boots." The boots are as close to the "magic boots" featured in the book as I could make them.

This is a pair of boots I just finished for Edna Mae Holden. She and R.W. Hampton won a Western Heritage award for the CD "Where the West Remains" and the boot is based on the album cover design, drawn by her husband Harold Holden.

These oxfords (as yet unfinished) represent the first time I've made a pattern via the Koleff method that hasn't been totally off-kilter once I started lasting. Even so, the lining seemed a bit larger than necessary, while the upper seemed a bit scant, and the tongues came out a bit shorter than I'm accustomed to. I sewed them w/my left foot on the pedal, as the right one's in a cast! Makes sewing a bit awkward, and despite various changes to the motor, the machine still runs a bit too fast for me.

Had my first experience with crepe...
I mixed a little traditional with a little crepe...and this is what I came up with:


Whole-cut oxford in (Hardtke) French calf with asymmetric decorative brogue. Extended heel counter for additional ankle support.


Leather insole with additional instep support, heel and metatarsal support.
Rubber midsole and crepe outsole, Cat’s paw wear surface.
Will need to figure out how to blend the crepe better.


Norwegian welt, spinning stitch, double stitch-down construction with outer row additional spinning stitch as well.

Hi all, want to show what people do using my services. Check out www.leatherfx.com. Can't find the "upload image" button here. Sorry. Hope you'll like it.

My second pair of cowboy boots. Waterhouse veg calf. Beautiful and very nice to work with but watch out for watermarks. I Gotta soak the whole top next time.

Side seam was stitched using my curved needle stitcher. This sort of works... The problem is that the work is somewhat flexible and the stitcher table is tiny. It's meant for use with very stiff leather. I think if I could build a flat table for it, it would work very well.

Outsole is hand stitched.

I wish I could get my sole edge squared off a little better and I think I would lower the position of the toe bug a bit, but I guess it looks Ok where it is.

Next pair I'm going to try a piping side seam and maybe some stitch patterns for the tops.

Recently finished job.I post these because there was a chat about working with suede recently.These were made with plastic covers which are removed after making.